TINT

[Tie]

has any one put on tint them selfs im wanting to do it for a side project. and how it came out when u were done?

[J.Harris]

Originally Posted by Tie

has any one put on tint them selfs im wanting to do it for a side project. and how it came out when u were done?

I haven't done it myself but i've seen many people who have! Bubble city, it is terrible......

[phatjo911]

Don't do it your self.. leave this one to the pros

[toy-driver]

It's really not that hard. I bought tint at wall-mart and tinted a number of cars. Only problem with doing it yourself is consistency. It won't be perfect.

[mr3]

I tinted my T-tops and they came out good. I did them inside my house and my dogs were shedding at the time so there is 1 or 2 dog hairs that are in between the tint and the window. You can only see them when you look but I think they look good.

On my old car. I had the windows tinted by a guy I worked with. He took it into his bay (he was a mechanic) and tinted them on his lunch break. He did a few cars before mine so I trusted him. It only costed me 20 or so for the tint plus guitar hero for PS2. It makes some cars better looking. That car was a white 98 monte carlo. The tint really set it off. Made it look so much better. I dont think the 2 would look quite as good with tint but to each his own.

[Medusa]

I'm thinking a reflective silver tint would be killer.

[TintedOutDeuce]

Save ur money and white hairs. Take it the pros.

[mr2stealth]

i did my own car, not the mr2 but my tercel that i recently sold. it looked nice when i finished. except, the backs were a different tint than the front. i got the wrong kind, but i didnt do the back ones my friend did a horrible job too. i only did the fronts and they look great...this paragraph probably doesnt make a whole lot of sense...

[muffinman]

It's not hard to do at all just make sure it's clean and don't do it outside if it's windy.

Originally Posted by Medusa

I'm thinking a reflective silver tint would be killer.

In most places reflective tint is illegal

[Medusa]

Originally Posted by muffinman

In most places reflective tint is illegal

Yeah, I know. So unfortunate.

My windows have aftermarket tint that the previous owner installed, I don't know if he did it or a pro did though. The windows are sort of streaky, almost hazy though. I'm thinking about removing it and taking it to a pro shop to install good tint.

[JadeDragon]

Tried and failed. I really dont think there is any possible way, even if you are careful, to prevent bubbles and creases with Walmart tint.

[Everett]

I did it on a buddy's Honda and it came out great for my first time. 6 months later and still looks like new. I believe it just depends on how much patience an skill you have working with your hands. I plan on doing my MR2 soon myself. But I might take it to a pro for the rear window......I'm not that experienced yet, hehe!

[muffinman]

Originally Posted by JadeDragon

Tried and failed. I really dont think there is any possible way, even if you are careful, to prevent bubbles and creases with Walmart tint.

Never tried Walmart tint but i recently bought some 20% from Auto Zone and the quality was actually very good. It was $15 for 2ft x 6.5ft.

[328FTW]

Don't know if it works on tints but with decals and numbers I put on my racecars you can use soapy water on the surface so the stick on doesn't stick then you slide it around and into place and leave to dry (may leave a haze or streaks though being see through). Also have a rubber scraper handy, I brought one off an auction site for $2, its like a flexable thing that resembles a comb crossed with a paint scraper and you use it to smooth and push out bubbles by scraping/pulling it across the surface with considerable downpressure with the back edge trailing so it doesn't punch a hole. Used it on my RX7 and it worked a treat. I'm no expert though and my experiance is based on decals not tints.

[muffinman]

Originally Posted by 328FTW

Don't know if it works on tints but with decals and numbers I put on my racecars you can use soapy water on the surface so the stick on doesn't stick then you slide it around and into place and leave to dry (may leave a haze or streaks though being see through).

This is exactly what you have to use to apply the tint (baby shampoo works best and smells good). Mix in a spray bottle and make sure you keep soaking it as you seperate the lining so that the static doesn't attract dust.

p.s. pre-cut before seperating

[IsthataFerrari]

I tinted my windows before with some tint i picked up at local auto store. It can be a pain to get all the bubbles and what not out, but it turned out good. Then over time it started to fade and turn kind of purple. So in my opinion it is worth it to have a professional do it. They use a better grade professional tint that will last and not fade while being more resistant to scratches, and they should warranty their work for any defects, and for the time it would take you I think it would be worth the money in my opinion.

[MR2 Drifter]

Most MR2s look way better with tint all around (except for front windshield)

IF your going to do it yourself, I'de suggest going to youtube and looking for a "How to put tint on windows" video and just try copying what they do

But I can already tell you that the back window is going to be hard because it curves

Everybody does black tint, does anyone got pics of some see through red tint on a MR2 (I've been wondering how it would look so I can do it)

[PVpower]

I used some autozone tint on my truck and it came out really good on the back windows and alright on the front till i had to rip it off to pass inspection.

[P0wder]

Older thread but I'll bump with some info.

Disclaimer:I by no means claim to be a professional this is just info from my experience doing my own windows over the years and a couple friends.

Walmart/autozone/ most eBay pre-cut kits the film can look good if you take your time but it will turn purple usually after 2-3 years depending on how much time it spends in the sun. Also the better grade film shops use goes on a little easier and wont purple for several years.

Tools: Heat gun, Tinting squeegee, hard card / bondo cards (something to work the bubbles out and press the film into place) and Snap off razor blade knife (stainless if at all possible) and a smooth cutting surface (I like to use a large piece of glass) A spay bottle (the finer the mist the better it works) and last but not least the tint solution aka Baby Shampoo(15 drops per pint mixed with distilled or filtered water)

Prepare the work area: Where you will be working start by cleaning the floor the best you can, then wet it down like you would before painting doesn't hurt either. Some high end shops go as far as tinting in a down draft booth.

Prepare the car: If I have time I sweep the car, basically eliminate as many sources of dust/lint/hair etc. as possible. Remove as much trim around the windows as possible especially the door panels if you plan to do the doors. Clean both sides of the glass the best you can by spraying the tint solution and start with a razor blade to get all the crap built up on the windows over the years. Once the heavy stuff is gone just use a lint free towel or my personal favorite coffee filters and the solution. Coffee filters are amazing for cleaning windows and they are typically lint free.

How to cut bulk film (the rolls/sheets): first you will save yourself a lot of frustration if you can get a stainless razor blade to cut the film. If you can't find a stainless blade plan to use several blades because as soon as the blade gets wets it starts to dull. I usually rough out the shape of the window with scissors leaving about 3-4 inches beyond the edge of the window.
Tip #1 there is an adhesive side to the film make sure you cut the shape so that side is the one that will ultimately be touching the inside of the glass. Sounds basic but I bet 75% of the people will do this wrong once but few will admit to doing it. Yes I have done this more then once.
Tip #2 put a bright light inside the car and aim it at the window you are about to cut the film for. Mist the outside of that window with the tint solution and stick the roughed out shape (adhesive side out but with the protective film still on) the light should show the outside edge of the window, cut off everything outside that edge. Long smooth cuts will make it look less hacked/DIY.
For the door windows leave an extra couple inches bellow the bottom of the window to make sure the edge is bellow the weather stripping.
Tip #3 when the felt around the window gets wet it tends to drop felt 'hairs' so I start with the windows rolled down about an inch or so and tape over the felt area. with the door skins off you can tint the window with it rolled down a little.

Separating the film backing: Now that you have your film cut for the window wet the cutting table (sheet of glass to work from) and apply the film to the glass (again adhesive side out.) Mist the inside of the window to be tinted with the tinting solution. Now you are ready to carefully remove the backing from the film(film is still on the cutting table). As you remove the backing mist the sticky side of the film with the tint solution. Be careful to avoid getting any lint on it, or allowing the film to touch itself or that sheet is wasted.

Applying the film: Make sure the window is still well lubricated with the tinting solution and carefully bring the film from the cutting table to the window. The film will stick to ANYTHING not lubed up with tint solution so be careful and make sure the window is well misted before you touch it with the film. Once you manage to get the film in the car without the cat jumping on you or a rouge wind folding the sheet on itself you are ready to place the film on the window. the film should slide around on the window so you can get it where it needs to be. Once you are satisfied with film placement mist the now outfacing non-adhesive side of the film. I like to work from one of the upper corners down and across and squeegee the solution out that is between the glass and the film, all while keeping the surface you are rubbing nice and slippery with solution so you don't scratch it with the squeegee. As you squeegee there will be solution all over the place so keep some lint free towels handy to keep it from running inside the body panels or my personal favorite down your arm and into your armpits. Use the hard cards to press any bubble to the closest outside edge and if needed a heat gun will help with the adhesion on the spots that aren't sticking. (if using heat work from the center out)
Tip#4 leave the windows rolled down the inch or so as long as possible and once the film has set you can use a really fine file to trim the edges so the film goes all the way to the edge for that pro-look.
Tip#5 if you need to do the rear window using more then one sheet place the joint line over one of the defroster lines.

There are a lot of other more advanced methods like baby powder heat shrinking, but the method above should get you going in the right direction.
Hope this helps someone do some quality budget tinting. I have not done my deuce yet but after typing this I want to.

[honda_bar]

i just got mine done a little ways back...If your post was up sooner, I might have attempted it myself! thanks for the write up.