Why are you still waxing your car?

[GR8MR2]

Originally Posted by mr2andy

I have some questions..

if I also want to use the swirl/scratch removal ,the #21 as well as the Ultimate Quik Detailer, what is the correct sequence to apply. Can you throw me some info?

Thanks
Andy

I don't recall if I posted this before but here is my process.

I can tell you what I do. I've developed my process over many (45) years of detailing and it is constantly evolving as new products come to market. But, bear in mind that there are a lot of right answers and a lot of good products to choose from. This is what works for me and I'm of the opinion that you should find what works for you and stick with it. If you are anal about how your car looks then this process should work for you as well as it does for me. Most important thing to remember, it is the process that is key and the products are secondary to the process.

Wash, Clay, Polish, Glaze (optional), Wax or Seal, Maintain

Every 3-4 months I do a complete detail on my MR2. The timing depends on the environment and how the car was kept. The detail entails a Wash, Clay, Polish, (optional Glaze) and Wax. Once I have done a complete detail I maintain by washing every week and applying Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer product after every wash. This maintains the freshly detailed look and well as restoring any lost slickness to the paint. This has the added benefit of making the paint resist dirt and grime hence it is easier to keep clean.

Washing - An occasional run through a touchless Laser Automatic Wash won't damage the finish during periods of inclement weather but I'd avoid any cloth type automatic wash or washes that towel dry your car. I prefer washing it myself using a good car wash. I prefer Meguiar's NXT Tech Wash.

I use two 5 gallon buckets with grit guards and I measure the precise amount of car wash concentrate to use. Using too much will shorten the life of your wax or sealant.

I always wash my car in the shade when the paint is cool to the touch so that I don't develop hard water spots which can be difficult to remove.

I buy new sheepskin wash mitts every few months and keep them spotless. I don't use the same mitt that I wash my wheels and rocker panels with to wash my paint.

I dry my vehicle using an open hose and low pressure flow to sheet off as much water as I can then I gently pat dry with waffle-weave microfiber towels.

I now inspect the paint to see what steps are needed to restore the paint.

Clay - I lightly draw my fingertips over the paint on my hood after it has been washed and dried. If it doesn't feel as smooth as glass, I clay. I prefer Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit but others (Mothers, Clay Magic, etc.) also make good kits. I like the Meg's kit because it comes with a premium Microfiber towel as well as a plastic case to store the unused clay.

I cut the clay bar into two or three pieces and put the unused pieces in the plastic box. If I drop a piece of clay when using it I throw it away and fetch one of the unused pieces. I use lots of the supplied Quik Detailer lube. I clay a 2' x 2' section at a time and test with my fingertips to insure that the contaminants are gone. As the clay gets dirty I fold it and re-kneed it into a pad and continue the process.

I clay my paint then move on and clay the windows and finally the wheels. I toss the piece of clay when I have finished with the wheels.

If your paint is heavily oxidized, use a paint cleaner before claying.

Cleaning and Polishing - I use a paint cleaner or a combination cleaner/polish product to remove stains and grime that is imbedded in the paint pores. I like Meguiar's #80 (Speed Glaze) for this but the Megs Deep Crystal #1 Cleaner and #2 Polish are also fine if you prefer OTC products.

If you can afford a buffer look for a good dual action orbital type. Don't expect much from the cheap $30 buffers on the market. They might apply a wax ok but they don't have the power needed to polish paint effectively. A rotary buffer can damage your paint if you are not skilled in it's use and paint repair costs a lot of money. OTOH, it is nearly impossible to harm your paint with a good DA orbital buffer and foam pads. You can use a DA buffer to polish your paint frequently with no issue. I use a Porter-Cable 7336 that is now 11 years old and still going strong. One of the best detailing tools I ever bought, it cuts the polishing time by a factor of 10 over doing it by hand.

Waxing/Sealing - Now that the finish is looking it's best, I seal it to protect the look. It is important to note that a wax or sealant imparts very little to the overall look if your car is perfectly polished. Most of the appearance comes from the polishing stage of your preparation.

For sealants, I like Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0 or Meguiar's #21 2.0 (Synthetic Sealant). Their wetlook shine is as good or better than any other product I've used. If you prefer the warm glow of a carnauba by all means use it. Plan on applying carnaubas more frequently in hot climates to keep the protection intact. The newly released version 2.0 of these products has extended their durability and protection and greatly increased their ability to repel water.

A polymer sealant is a great product for your wheels too. It resists brake dust and your wheels will stay clean longer and clean up easier. I also apply Meguiar's Quik Wheel Detailer after each wash as it is extremely slippery and brake dust hardly sticks to it. I spray on a MF towel and apply to the wheel and buff. Avoid getting spray directly on your brake rotors.

I also keep a bottle of Quik Detailer and a few microfiber towels in the car to use to remove bird droppings, bugs or other messes as soon as they occur. Bugs and bird droppings will often permanently etch your paint if not removed promptly.

Leather - I use a cleaner/conditioner at least monthly during the summer months to keep it clean, supple and to prevent it from drying out.

Interior - For interior detailing I prefer Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. This is a product that doesn't add gloss or leave an oily residue. It leaves the interior looking like new. It doesn't make the dash glossy so that it is reflecting glare. This product also has UV protection.

Tires - It is important to clean your tires well prior to application of any dressing. I don't like chemical tire/wheel cleaners as they will remove the wax or sealant on your wheel. Instead I use either a stiff brush and car wash soap or my pressure washer. The latter makes short work of tire grunge. I also use the pressure washer for the wheel wells. I let the tires dry fully then apply a thin coat of my favorite dressing. I pay particular attention to keeping the coating thin and even. I remove excess in the tire sipes to minimize any potential for it to sling onto my paint.

As a last note, swirls and cobwebs are easier to prevent than to remove. Anything that touches the paint can cause marring so I take great care to use impeccably clean towels and applicators and I minimize, as much as possible, any unnecessary contact with the paint.

[mr2andy]

Thank you so much for sharing the process...

This one should go to the sticky...! = )

[MR2 Drifter]

So can you post a link to the site or places that sell it, and a price range for each of these products (Same set up as you)

[GR8MR2]

Originally Posted by MR2 Drifter

So can you post a link to the site or places that sell it, and a price range for each of these products (Same set up as you)

The products mentioned can be purchased direct from Meguiar's. Currently, if you enter the special code "carguy" at checkout you will get an extra 10% discount.

Most of their products are available at other on-line sites as well. I've used Auto Detailing Supplies in the past and was very pleased with their product selection, prices and delivery speed.

Of course, many of Meguiar's consumer line products are available at most auto supply and discount chains and their Professional line (Mirror Glaze) and Detailer line are available through several local paint and body shop supply establishments. meguiars.com: Dealer Locator

It's no secret that I am a nearly 100% Meguiar's user but as I mentioned in my previous post, there are a lot of great detailing product and suppliers to choose from. I believe it is best to concentrate on your technique and process to get good repeatable results. Then test other brands to see how they improve or detract from your results. Anyway, that is how I arrived at the product choices I use.

[MGalo]

GR8MR2, what is your opinion of Meg's Cleaner Wax?

Oh, and thank you for the detailed step-by-step!!

[GR8MR2]

Originally Posted by MGalo

GR8MR2, what is your opinion of Meg's Cleaner Wax?

Oh, and thank you for the detailed step-by-step!!

You are certainly welcome.

Meg's Cleaner Wax is ok for a one step product but I don't think it looks as good as NXT 2.0 nor does it seem to last as long. NXT 2.0 is not a cleaner/wax however and you might want to use it as a topper.

If you are dealing with older oxidized paint by hand, I'd suggest Meg's ColorX and top it with NXT 2.0. Topping with NXT 2.0 also seems to slow the fading and oxidation of single stage paint. Also, if you can find Meg's Show Car Glaze #7, it will dramatically improve the appearance of older paint. Only for a while though, as glazes evaporate over a few weeks but it does significantly restore the look of older paint.

[TomsMR2]

glaze is good if you want your car to look especially good before an event or meet or something.. besides that, its a lot of work for something thats going to wear off pretty quick.

[LokiRx7]

Originally Posted by TomsMR2

glaze is good if you want your car to look especially good before an event or meet or something.. besides that, its a lot of work for something thats going to wear off pretty quick.

Glaze is a pure polish, if you want the shine of the glaze to last, you need to protect it. A coat of wax or sealant over a polished surface will prolong the appearance.

If you use any Meguiars glaze it leaves no protection behind, it is not a one step product. An unprotected finish will oxidize much faster than one that has been protected, thus loosing its luster. Thats probably why your results dont last very long.

I use Speed Glaze and or Showcar glaze depending on the condition of the surface. I top it with M21 or M26 (depends on what color car I am putting it on), M21 is the professional grade version of NXT 2.0, and M26 is the professional grade version of Gold Class. However the professional grade products are worth every penny, whereas the consumer products are a heck of a deal for they're price.

[LokiRx7]

Originally Posted by GR8MR2

You are certainly welcome.

Meg's Cleaner Wax is ok for a one step product but I don't think it looks as good as NXT 2.0 nor does it seem to last as long. NXT 2.0 is not a cleaner/wax however and you might want to use it as a topper.

If you are dealing with older oxidized paint by hand, I'd suggest Meg's ColorX and top it with NXT 2.0. Topping with NXT 2.0 also seems to slow the fading and oxidation of single stage paint. Also, if you can find Meg's Show Car Glaze #7, it will dramatically improve the appearance of older paint. Only for a while though, as glazes evaporate over a few weeks but it does significantly restore the look of older paint.

ScratchX is a very good product, definately a step up from Meguiars Cleaner Wax. Another suggestion if you have oxidized paint and want to restore your finish, or you think your finish can be improved beyond what it looks like now. Try the Deep Crystal System, I used to use steps one and two followed by NXT 2.0 instead of the step three Carnauba wax, Gold Class would be another alternative.

Show Car glaze works wonders, and I would use NXT 2.0 or M21 to protect the results for a long time.

[MGalo]

Thank you again GR8MR2 and LokiRx7! I'm taking more pains to keep my Absolutely Red '03 Spyder looking good/great than I have with any other car I've owned. The tips I'm learning here are invaluable

[LokiRx7]

Oops, meant to say ColorX I always get the names mixed up... And when used properly SratchX is awesome!

[MGalo]

Originally Posted by LokiRx7

Oops, meant to say ColorX I always get the names mixed up... And when used properly SratchX is awesome!

OMG, I used ScratchX and my paint came off......just joking

I just realized many of the products mentioned are for faded and/or corroded paint. The paint on my Spyder is not faded or corroded at all. I guess I should be asking about cleaners, protectants and waxes.

Does anyone use Griot's Garage products? I used GG's One Step Sealant in Feb.(I would like to try others, but not sure which ones) and haven't actually washed the car since Mar. I use Megs Quik Detailer regularly and people are always asking how often I wax my Spyder. They're amazed when I tell them the last time I washed my car was Mar.

Anyway, any thoughts on Griot's products?

[nyachty]

Looks like everyone has there own testing and preferences. I use and market nanotechnology sealant, not wax. The stuff seals in your shine for at least 18 months and a 12oz bottle will take care of 3 cars. Once applied it works great to rinse off brake dust. In fact I only rinse off dirt and use a mitten to wash now. Soap scum dulls the finish.

Nanotechnology gets in between the paint groves and bonds with the paint. Wax just sits on top of the paint and wears off too easily.

Plus I feel good about a product that is water based and has no teflon, silicone or polymers. Oil based product kill your paint also.