Scrathes, Swirls, and Holograms

PHOENIX · 02-07-2006, 12:35 AM

Since there may be some confusion as to the difference between Swirls, Scratches and Holograms and other types of damage, I thought I would give you some examples.

Swirls
Swirls are mostly circular. They look like spiderwebs, and are often called that. They are caused by many things, but most often they are caused by improper washing and drying tools and processes, but they are also caused by just driving the car. Dust in the atmosphere while driving can cause them. Driving on dusty roads is a good way to see swirls occur. The fact is, they are totally unavoidable. You can stay on top of them if you care for your car though. They are very difficult to polish out by hand and will likely require a machine. Not a buffer kind of machine, but rather a Porter Cable type. Buffers are great at applying wax, but they don't do so well on swirl removal. You will more likely create holograms in your efforts to remove the swirls.

Scrathes
Scratches are lateral lines in the paint. They are caused by using coarse towels to dry with, driving next to bushes, rubbing against the paint, washing with a sponge full of dirt, claying with a dirty clay bar, and a million other things. Why some cars swirl and others scratch is a mystery to me. The process for removing them is much the same as with swirls. While swirls can be caused simply by driving, scratches need a little more effort put into creating them. Your car won't scratch by just driving it around. If your car looks like this then you can be assured that something you are doing wrong is causing them. Try to identify where your car care process can be improved and see if that makes a difference in how many scratches appear.

Holograms
These are also often called 'Buffer Burns" due to the fact that they are caused by el cheapo buffers. They are wavy lines in the paint that sometimes zig zag across the body. Holograms are not created naturally. They are also not created by hand. These are marks that are created by buffers and polishers in the hands of amatures. Holograms are also more difficult to remove than swirls simply because of the nature of the damage. If you pick your car up from a paint shop or a detail shop and it has holograms on it, then take it right back and have them fix it. Holograms are easily hidden with greasy glazes and may not show up right away. When they show up you should take the car back in. Don't let them tell you that you created them. Any detailer knows what holograms are caused by and they know that you didn't cause them. These are best removed by a professional.

Clearcoat Failure
You can't stop clearcoat failure. Once it starts you are pretty much doomed. Your clear coat has somehow seperated from the rest of your car and that is why it looks cloudy. Your clear coat is only clear as long as its stuck to the paint. It will get all cloudy and start slowly chipping off of your car. Clearcoat failure is a result of not protecting your car from industrial fallout (meaning you don't clay your car) and you don't protect it from UV rays (meaning you aren't waxing). Don't let clearcoat failure happen to your car. It most often starts shows up after 5 or 6 years of neglect. Soon you will start to see it on neglected '99 and '98 models. You may already be seeing it on your '95 and '96 model year cars. The only way to fix it is to sand it all down and respray it. That will require a body shop to do properly. Its an expensive problem that is easily avoided if you care for the car.

Oxidation
Oxidation is what happens just before clearcoat failure. It is when the surface is unprotected and it just sits out in the sun all day. Rare washings and even more rare shade can accelerate oxidation to the point that the clearcoat just gives up. More often than not you will see oxidation on non-clearcoated vehicles. The clear helps protect the paint to a certian extent, but it doesn't stop the damage from happening. Red is the first to oxidize. You'll notice that your red will start to go to pink after awhile. That is oxidation. Its easy enough to fix with a good quality paint cleaner. I use Klasse AIO to clear up my oxidation issues. Here is an example of oxidation and what it can look like after a simple non-abrasive paint cleaning.

Hopefully that clears it up for you all a bit. Knowing what kind of damage you are dealing with will help in knowing what you can do about it. For example, swirls are easier to fix than scratches. Some scratches can be so deep that you need to paint them while others can be easily polished out with a PC. Holograms almost certianly need a polisher and swirls generally need one as well. If you know what kind of damage you have then it makes it easier for people who know how to help to offer suggestions. Pictures always help, but if you can at least identify if they are scratches, swirls, or holograms then it will give us more to go off of.

for more information, please visit www.ocdetails.com

This article is coutesy of jngbrdman (anthony) owner of ocdetails

Mister2.2 · 02-07-2006, 01:28 AM

Good write up.

wildman6767 · 03-27-2008, 11:25 PM

thank you this is def a great write up!

HalfMan_HalfBiscuit · 10-27-2008, 08:55 AM

I had holograms on a previous model after a minor repair and paint job and they valeted the car as part of the service. Know I know how it's caused it won't happen to me again. Cheers Dude.

LokiRx7 · 11-01-2008, 02:50 AM

Oxidation at its worst, my current MR2. Its a 1986 with 150,000 miles, that was purchased for $75

This was done ENTIRELY by hand, I own a rotary buffer too, but there isnt anything quite like obtaining jaw dropping results by hand. Although, it takes ALOT of time, and even more aspirine.......

I am not sure exactly how holograms are created, I used to use a harbor freight buffer and never created holograms with it and it was as 'el cheapo' as it gets. I think it might have something to do with inexperience and the compound used. Other than clear coat failure and really deep scratches with the right motivation, and determination, you can fix just about any imperfection in your paint. I used over the shelf Meguiars products on my car. I now mostly use their Mirror Glaze line, and I love it. For the price, it is very hard to beat, I think my results speak for themselves.

MR2-MRnot · 11-01-2008, 03:19 AM

.correction, they aren't caused by EL cheapo buffer, yet they are caused by using the wrong/not enough polishing liquid...and inexperience doesn't help AT ALL...nice find btw for $75!!! im soooo jealous!!

TomsMR2 · 11-19-2008, 10:02 PM

^ yeah, good call. some products WILL create holograms no matter what, and is to be expected. your end result shouldnt have holograms at all, but if you see them in the middle of your buff job its pretty normal. they're typically finished off at the end with a fine compound (not hidden by polish/glaze!).

meguires 3 step stuff is great and terrible at the same time. it does NOT cut your paint, its not abrasive, and it really doesnt remove damage.. it does however, do an amazing job cleaning your paint and making it shine like crazy! if you've got a big meet coming up and you want your car to look great, clay it and do the 3 step (or first two and use a better wax, you'll get better results). your car will look fantastic, but will soon fade back to its previous condition as the glazes and polishes wash and wear off. 3 step isnt a fix, its kinda just a super deep cleaning and glazing for temporary good looks. not bashing it at all, just keep in mind the results you see arent permanent like a good professional cut and buff with abrasives.

LokiRx7 · 11-20-2008, 02:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsMR2

^ yeah, good call. some products WILL create holograms no matter what, and is to be expected. your end result shouldnt have holograms at all, but if you see them in the middle of your buff job its pretty normal. they're typically finished off at the end with a fine compound (not hidden by polish/glaze!).

meguires 3 step stuff is great and terrible at the same time. it does NOT cut your paint, its not abrasive, and it really doesnt remove damage.. it does however, do an amazing job cleaning your paint and making it shine like crazy! if you've got a big meet coming up and you want your car to look great, clay it and do the 3 step (or first two and use a better wax, you'll get better results). your car will look fantastic, but will soon fade back to its previous condition as the glazes and polishes wash and wear off. 3 step isnt a fix, its kinda just a super deep cleaning and glazing for temporary good looks. not bashing it at all, just keep in mind the results you see arent permanent like a good professional cut and buff with abrasives.

A glaze is a pure polish, polishes do correct minor paint flaws, otherwise my buffing pads wouldnt collect paint when used on a single stage paint. A polish doesnt CUT your paint, and there is no reason to use a cutting compound where it isnt needed. And the glaze does not wash off, It is totally gone when you wipe it off. If you want the results of the glaze to last, you need to seal the surface.

That said all my paint needed was a mild cleaner, the step one of Meguiars Deep Crystal sytem did the trick, I didnt need a cutting compound.

You dont need a high powered rifle to take down small game, its a waste, the same is true of using a powerful compound when it isnt needed. That said, if I use a cutting compound and do not properly maintain the surface, what will happpen? It will return to its previous state.

My car has had nothing but the three step system applied and sits outside in the weather, I wash it occasionally and havent had time to wax it in several months. It still looks great, I dont understand why some people have such a problem with glazes. If you wax your car on a regular basis to protect your finish it doesnt matter what you do to your paint as long as it looks great.

I usually religiously wax my cars, and once or twice a year I buff them with a cleaner and or glaze (Generally both though, I can be abit obsessive...). Most of the time thats all thats needed. I have only owned one or two that really needed a cutting compound to look their best. And they were REALLY bad, I thought they had clearcoat failure at first...

To be honest with you, if you think you can do the three step system and be done with it... No your results wont last, but it IS an excellent product for yearly maintence, and its CHEAP! (Oh, I dont use the step 3 wax... So technically I use the two step system

)

petedynamics · 11-20-2008, 03:06 AM

wow 75 bucks.....awesome......

TomsMR2 · 11-20-2008, 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LokiRx7

I usually religiously wax my cars, and once or twice a year I buff them with a cleaner and or glaze (Generally both though, I can be abit obsessive...). Most of the time thats all thats needed. I have only owned one or two that really needed a cutting compound to look their best. And they were REALLY bad, I thought they had clearcoat failure at first...

To be honest with you, if you think you can do the three step system and be done with it... No your results wont last, but it IS an excellent product for yearly maintence, and its CHEAP! (Oh, I dont use the step 3 wax... So technically I use the two step system

)

well the thread is called scratches, swirls, and holograms

all paint defects which need to be cut out with abrasives.. holograms are much lighter, but you're not going to clean off a scratch or swirl.

for the most part, i agree with you. the 3 step is maintenance after you've gone through and fixed blemishes. it keeps your car nice, theres nothing wrong with glaze at all.. its just not a fix for anything.

TomsMR2 · 11-20-2008, 05:27 AM

Compound, polish, glaze.
What's the difference?

The difference between compounds, polishes and glazes can best be described as the amount of cleaning power or abrasiveness in the product. The most abrasive products are called compounds. These products are designed to remove (abrade away) a portion of the top paint or clear coat layer which contain sanding swirls, scratches, water spots or blemishes. They are available in many different grades of abrasiveness or "cut" depending on the severity of the problem to be corrected. Compounds are best used with a circular polisher but can produce acceptable results with dual-action polishers if the defect is minor. Compounds typically leave the surface dull. This surface dullness is called haze or compounding lines and is removed by polishing with increasingly less abrasive polishes. Unfortunately, there is no industry standard to quantify when a "polish" becomes a "compound" and one manufacturer's polish may have the same cutting ability (abrasiveness) as another manufacturer's compound.

We feel these products fall into the compound category:

* Menzerna Intensive Polish">Menzerna Intensive Polish
* Menzerna Power Gloss
* BLACKFIRE Scratch Resistant Clear Compound
* Meguiar's No. 2 Fine Cut Cleaner
* 3M Perfect-it Fine Cut Compound
* Stoner Clearcoat Compound

Compound, Polish, Glaze. What's the Difference?

Products that contain solvent cleaners or very mild abrasives are called polishes, pre-wax cleaners or paintwork cleaners. They can vary from having very mild natural solvents to quite strong petroleum solvents and may or may not contain fine abrasives, silicones, fillers and waxes. Polishes prepare the surface for waxing, remove old wax or paint sealants, visually reduce swirls and minor blemishes (usually through the use of fillers) and restore surface gloss. They do not have the "cut" of compounds and typically burnish the surface to a mirror-like gloss rather than abrade away paint. Polishes can be applied by circular polishers, dual-action polishers or by hand. Unfortunately, there is no industry standard on what constitutes a polish and some manufacturers use the word "Polish" to describe their paint sealant which adds to consumer confusion. In the strictest sense a polish is a gloss-enhancing, cleaner not a protectant but some "polishes" do contain wax or sealants which blurs the line between polishes and protective coatings.

We feel these products fall into the polish category:

* Menzerna Final Polish
* BLACKFIRE Gloss Enhancing Polish
* P21S Paintwork Cleaner
* Meguiar's No. 9 Swirl Remover
* Mothers Pre-Wax Cleaner
* 3M Swirl Remover for Dark Paints
* 3M Swirl Remover for Light Paints
* 3M Finess-it II Machine Polish

Compound, Polish, Glaze. What's the Difference?

"Glazes" are typically used at automotive manufacturing plants and by paint and body shops on freshly painted surfaces. Their primary function is to improve the brilliance and clarity of the paint. They may contain fillers to hide very minor imperfections (swirls) and may or may not offer any protective qualities. Glazes revitalize the look of all paint finishes through oils and "wetting agents". Glazes are almost always body-shop safe which means they do not contain any silicones. After a vehicle is painted or touched up it may be compounded to remove minor defects, polished to remove compounding haze or surface dullness and a glaze applied to create a uniform, deep, "wet" shine before it is delivered to the consumer. Because glazes tend to create a "wet-look" shine they have come to be used by enthusiasts to maximize shine on show cars, historic and exotic vehicles and even daily drivers. Glazing does not replace polishing with a polish. A vehicle should always be polished first, a glaze applied and usually finished with some type of wax or paint sealant (on cured paint).

We feel these products fall into the glaze category:

* Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze
* Meguiar's No. 3 Machine Glaze
* Mothers Sealer & Glaze
* Meguiar's No. 7 Show Car Glaze
* 3M Imperial Hand Glaze

stolen from Compound, Polish, Glaze. What's the Difference?

*most* people really dont want to or need to go heavier than a swirl remover for repair.

02-07-2006, 12:35 AM	#1 (permalink)
PHOENIX Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: On Hiatus....... Posts: 7,897 Thanks: 84 Thanked 257 Times in 197 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (46/100% )	Scrathes, Swirls, and Holograms Since there may be some confusion as to the difference between Swirls, Scratches and Holograms and other types of damage, I thought I would give you some examples. Swirls Swirls are mostly circular. They look like spiderwebs, and are often called that. They are caused by many things, but most often they are caused by improper washing and drying tools and processes, but they are also caused by just driving the car. Dust in the atmosphere while driving can cause them. Driving on dusty roads is a good way to see swirls occur. The fact is, they are totally unavoidable. You can stay on top of them if you care for your car though. They are very difficult to polish out by hand and will likely require a machine. Not a buffer kind of machine, but rather a Porter Cable type. Buffers are great at applying wax, but they don't do so well on swirl removal. You will more likely create holograms in your efforts to remove the swirls. Scrathes Scratches are lateral lines in the paint. They are caused by using coarse towels to dry with, driving next to bushes, rubbing against the paint, washing with a sponge full of dirt, claying with a dirty clay bar, and a million other things. Why some cars swirl and others scratch is a mystery to me. The process for removing them is much the same as with swirls. While swirls can be caused simply by driving, scratches need a little more effort put into creating them. Your car won't scratch by just driving it around. If your car looks like this then you can be assured that something you are doing wrong is causing them. Try to identify where your car care process can be improved and see if that makes a difference in how many scratches appear. Holograms These are also often called 'Buffer Burns" due to the fact that they are caused by el cheapo buffers. They are wavy lines in the paint that sometimes zig zag across the body. Holograms are not created naturally. They are also not created by hand. These are marks that are created by buffers and polishers in the hands of amatures. Holograms are also more difficult to remove than swirls simply because of the nature of the damage. If you pick your car up from a paint shop or a detail shop and it has holograms on it, then take it right back and have them fix it. Holograms are easily hidden with greasy glazes and may not show up right away. When they show up you should take the car back in. Don't let them tell you that you created them. Any detailer knows what holograms are caused by and they know that you didn't cause them. These are best removed by a professional. Clearcoat Failure You can't stop clearcoat failure. Once it starts you are pretty much doomed. Your clear coat has somehow seperated from the rest of your car and that is why it looks cloudy. Your clear coat is only clear as long as its stuck to the paint. It will get all cloudy and start slowly chipping off of your car. Clearcoat failure is a result of not protecting your car from industrial fallout (meaning you don't clay your car) and you don't protect it from UV rays (meaning you aren't waxing). Don't let clearcoat failure happen to your car. It most often starts shows up after 5 or 6 years of neglect. Soon you will start to see it on neglected '99 and '98 models. You may already be seeing it on your '95 and '96 model year cars. The only way to fix it is to sand it all down and respray it. That will require a body shop to do properly. Its an expensive problem that is easily avoided if you care for the car. Oxidation Oxidation is what happens just before clearcoat failure. It is when the surface is unprotected and it just sits out in the sun all day. Rare washings and even more rare shade can accelerate oxidation to the point that the clearcoat just gives up. More often than not you will see oxidation on non-clearcoated vehicles. The clear helps protect the paint to a certian extent, but it doesn't stop the damage from happening. Red is the first to oxidize. You'll notice that your red will start to go to pink after awhile. That is oxidation. Its easy enough to fix with a good quality paint cleaner. I use Klasse AIO to clear up my oxidation issues. Here is an example of oxidation and what it can look like after a simple non-abrasive paint cleaning. Hopefully that clears it up for you all a bit. Knowing what kind of damage you are dealing with will help in knowing what you can do about it. For example, swirls are easier to fix than scratches. Some scratches can be so deep that you need to paint them while others can be easily polished out with a PC. Holograms almost certianly need a polisher and swirls generally need one as well. If you know what kind of damage you have then it makes it easier for people who know how to help to offer suggestions. Pictures always help, but if you can at least identify if they are scratches, swirls, or holograms then it will give us more to go off of. for more information, please visit www.ocdetails.com This article is coutesy of jngbrdman (anthony) owner of ocdetails Last edited by PHOENIX; 02-07-2006 at 01:31 AM.

02-07-2006, 01:28 AM	#2 (permalink)
Mister2.2 Cheese it! Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 6,273 Thanks: 108 Thanked 109 Times in 94 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Good write up. __________________ --Josh MR2Trader.com Free Accounts to Buy and Sell your MR2 Parts! Ask me about Web Hosting Solutions, starting at $5.95 a month. 'I am at two with nature.' 'Students achieving Oneness will move on to Twoness.'

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03-27-2008, 11:25 PM	#3 (permalink)
wildman6767 I got a pocket full mr2 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Houston TX Posts: 10 Thanks: 2 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	thank you this is def a great write up!

10-27-2008, 08:55 AM	#4 (permalink)
HalfMan_HalfBiscuit HalfMan_HalfBiscuit Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: London, UK Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I had holograms on a previous model after a minor repair and paint job and they valeted the car as part of the service. Know I know how it's caused it won't happen to me again. Cheers Dude.

11-01-2008, 02:50 AM	#5 (permalink)
LokiRx7 MR2 + Flat Black = FAIL Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: N.C. Ohio Posts: 297 Thanks: 0 Thanked 14 Times in 13 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Oxidation at its worst, my current MR2. Its a 1986 with 150,000 miles, that was purchased for $75 This was done ENTIRELY by hand, I own a rotary buffer too, but there isnt anything quite like obtaining jaw dropping results by hand. Although, it takes ALOT of time, and even more aspirine....... I am not sure exactly how holograms are created, I used to use a harbor freight buffer and never created holograms with it and it was as 'el cheapo' as it gets. I think it might have something to do with inexperience and the compound used. Other than clear coat failure and really deep scratches with the right motivation, and determination, you can fix just about any imperfection in your paint. I used over the shelf Meguiars products on my car. I now mostly use their Mirror Glaze line, and I love it. For the price, it is very hard to beat, I think my results speak for themselves.

11-01-2008, 03:19 AM	#6 (permalink)
MR2-MRnot Cage Fighter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Akron, OH-IO Posts: 654 Thanks: 5 Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	.correction, they aren't caused by EL cheapo buffer, yet they are caused by using the wrong/not enough polishing liquid...and inexperience doesn't help AT ALL...nice find btw for $75!!! im soooo jealous!!

11-19-2008, 10:02 PM	#7 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,497 Thanks: 8 Thanked 233 Times in 168 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	^ yeah, good call. some products WILL create holograms no matter what, and is to be expected. your end result shouldnt have holograms at all, but if you see them in the middle of your buff job its pretty normal. they're typically finished off at the end with a fine compound (not hidden by polish/glaze!). meguires 3 step stuff is great and terrible at the same time. it does NOT cut your paint, its not abrasive, and it really doesnt remove damage.. it does however, do an amazing job cleaning your paint and making it shine like crazy! if you've got a big meet coming up and you want your car to look great, clay it and do the 3 step (or first two and use a better wax, you'll get better results). your car will look fantastic, but will soon fade back to its previous condition as the glazes and polishes wash and wear off. 3 step isnt a fix, its kinda just a super deep cleaning and glazing for temporary good looks. not bashing it at all, just keep in mind the results you see arent permanent like a good professional cut and buff with abrasives.

11-20-2008, 03:06 AM	#9 (permalink)
petedynamics Some Skills Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Orange County ---- Posts: 293 Thanks: 13 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	wow 75 bucks.....awesome......

11-20-2008, 05:27 AM	#11 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,497 Thanks: 8 Thanked 233 Times in 168 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Compound, polish, glaze. What's the difference? The difference between compounds, polishes and glazes can best be described as the amount of cleaning power or abrasiveness in the product. The most abrasive products are called compounds. These products are designed to remove (abrade away) a portion of the top paint or clear coat layer which contain sanding swirls, scratches, water spots or blemishes. They are available in many different grades of abrasiveness or "cut" depending on the severity of the problem to be corrected. Compounds are best used with a circular polisher but can produce acceptable results with dual-action polishers if the defect is minor. Compounds typically leave the surface dull. This surface dullness is called haze or compounding lines and is removed by polishing with increasingly less abrasive polishes. Unfortunately, there is no industry standard to quantify when a "polish" becomes a "compound" and one manufacturer's polish may have the same cutting ability (abrasiveness) as another manufacturer's compound. We feel these products fall into the compound category: * Menzerna Intensive Polish">Menzerna Intensive Polish * Menzerna Power Gloss * BLACKFIRE Scratch Resistant Clear Compound * Meguiar's No. 2 Fine Cut Cleaner * 3M Perfect-it Fine Cut Compound * Stoner Clearcoat Compound Compound, Polish, Glaze. What's the Difference? Products that contain solvent cleaners or very mild abrasives are called polishes, pre-wax cleaners or paintwork cleaners. They can vary from having very mild natural solvents to quite strong petroleum solvents and may or may not contain fine abrasives, silicones, fillers and waxes. Polishes prepare the surface for waxing, remove old wax or paint sealants, visually reduce swirls and minor blemishes (usually through the use of fillers) and restore surface gloss. They do not have the "cut" of compounds and typically burnish the surface to a mirror-like gloss rather than abrade away paint. Polishes can be applied by circular polishers, dual-action polishers or by hand. Unfortunately, there is no industry standard on what constitutes a polish and some manufacturers use the word "Polish" to describe their paint sealant which adds to consumer confusion. In the strictest sense a polish is a gloss-enhancing, cleaner not a protectant but some "polishes" do contain wax or sealants which blurs the line between polishes and protective coatings. We feel these products fall into the polish category: * Menzerna Final Polish * BLACKFIRE Gloss Enhancing Polish * P21S Paintwork Cleaner * Meguiar's No. 9 Swirl Remover * Mothers Pre-Wax Cleaner * 3M Swirl Remover for Dark Paints * 3M Swirl Remover for Light Paints * 3M Finess-it II Machine Polish Compound, Polish, Glaze. What's the Difference? "Glazes" are typically used at automotive manufacturing plants and by paint and body shops on freshly painted surfaces. Their primary function is to improve the brilliance and clarity of the paint. They may contain fillers to hide very minor imperfections (swirls) and may or may not offer any protective qualities. Glazes revitalize the look of all paint finishes through oils and "wetting agents". Glazes are almost always body-shop safe which means they do not contain any silicones. After a vehicle is painted or touched up it may be compounded to remove minor defects, polished to remove compounding haze or surface dullness and a glaze applied to create a uniform, deep, "wet" shine before it is delivered to the consumer. Because glazes tend to create a "wet-look" shine they have come to be used by enthusiasts to maximize shine on show cars, historic and exotic vehicles and even daily drivers. Glazing does not replace polishing with a polish. A vehicle should always be polished first, a glaze applied and usually finished with some type of wax or paint sealant (on cured paint). We feel these products fall into the glaze category: * Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze * Meguiar's No. 3 Machine Glaze * Mothers Sealer & Glaze * Meguiar's No. 7 Show Car Glaze * 3M Imperial Hand Glaze stolen from Compound, Polish, Glaze. What's the Difference? most people really dont want to or need to go heavier than a swirl remover for repair.