Beams RedTop Info request - Page 4

Luni · 04-22-2006, 02:36 AM

It most definately will work.

Just match the block codes.

S series engine runs S53, S54, E153 (maybe more).

You can use whatever you want in there.

You could mate that engine up to a GT4 AWD drivetrain if you really wanted to.

PHOENIX · 04-22-2006, 03:12 AM

thanks, so i guess i should try to find a 94+ turbo tranny.

Luni · 04-23-2006, 12:15 AM

If youre gonna be turboing it yeah.

If you used an S54 youd have to use a 5S flywheel and clutch disk and a 3S pressure plate and throw out bearing I believe.

PHOENIX · 04-23-2006, 12:27 AM

guys, check out the mk2 parts section if you want some info on Beams part numbers. I searched all day in japan for these and finally hit the jackpot for parts numbers.

http://www.mr2board.com/forums/mk-2-part-numbers/

PHOENIX · 04-23-2006, 08:55 PM

got it!

http://www.mr2board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5657

Roman · 06-14-2006, 10:17 PM

Personally, I'd rather run the NA tranny than a turbo one.

To run a turbo tranny, you need the gearbox, new flywheel/clutch, half shafts, and hubs.

Which are all different to the NA.

My main concern with using the turbo box, is that the gear ratios arent optimised for an NA engine, and also the fact that it's considerably heavier than the Na box, as it is more heavy duty. You're not going to be making enough power r to destroy an NA box, and they're considerably cheaper if you do.
It would be nice to have the LSD from a turbo box, but getting a TRD LSD for the NA box is always an option too.

weight (or lack thereof) is the biggest weapon that the NA cars have.

You dont have the torque ofa turbo motor, so any unnecessary weight has to go IMO. (Including a heavy turbo gbox)

WFX · 07-06-2006, 10:54 AM

Sorry to change the subject here...

Does anyone know the paint code/colour of the BEAMS manifold and/or Cover?

The cover actually looks darker then the manifold, the manifold looks simular to a Toyota Red but I wasnt quite sure!

I wanted to repaint mine as it needs a recoat and wanted the same colours!

On a side note I found some BEAMS Badges on Ebay:

BEAMS Emblem

Was thinking of using these where your standard V6, V8 badges would normally go on other cars! People would look at them and go huh??

Also try these ones too:

TOYOTA Emblem
VVT-i Emblem

PHOENIX · 07-06-2006, 06:52 PM

good question as i have to do the same.......hmmm

Ill ask the toyota guys today when i head over there.

WFX · 07-24-2006, 07:54 AM

Does anyone know whats a good exhaust size for the BEAMS?

Ive currently got 2 1/4" but from what Ive seen BEAMS is 2 1/2" stock. If I was to be making more power down the track would the pipe size be something I would need to consider increasing. Can anyone else shed extra light on the subject?

Thanks!

WFX · 07-25-2006, 04:22 AM

Well I just had my exhaust re-done from 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" and DAMN it made a huge difference in the lower revs!! Insted of slowly picking up speed and then finally getting its power higher up the revs (say round 3500rpm) its now instance power from stand still!!

So yeah Id say minmum 2 1/2" straight through is the way to go!!

PHOENIX · 07-25-2006, 04:36 AM

very nice!

are you running aftermarket headers?

lander · 07-25-2006, 05:58 AM

Hi
I am still here :-))

Lander

PHOENIX · 07-25-2006, 06:47 AM

haha, hello lander, glad you made your way over to the beams section of this site

Roman · 07-25-2006, 07:58 AM

Yep it wouldnt be the same without Lander, the redtop > early SW20 swap pioneer.

WFX · 07-25-2006, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHOENIX

very nice!

are you running aftermarket headers?

No just the standard ones that came with the motor... althou even the ones I got looked like a pretty good good set of 4-2-1 headers.

Roman · 07-25-2006, 07:22 PM

I've got aftermarket headers, but I've also got a spare set of factory ones to compare with.

And yes I agree, the factory headers look quite nice.

TOMS ones are slightly larger inside diameter, the 4-2 and 2-1 joins are different (The pipes have been spliced/welded together, rather than entering into a cast collector piece)
And the direction the pipes take is a little different.

On the standard extractors, one of the pipes (Either one or four, cant remember) sort of wraps under the other three, where as on mine, all four of them kind of twist around together.

WFX · 07-25-2006, 09:39 PM

Ah right nice info mine sounds standard then as I have that pipe that wraps under the other three!

WFX · 08-11-2006, 07:29 AM

Anyone know where the sender for the fan is?

My fan is always on so must not be getting a signal from somewhere. Ive been told the ST202's have the sender in the radiator but I never got the radiator with my half cut so not sure. My ST184 had the sender in the themostat.

Roman · 08-11-2006, 09:46 AM

Argghhh it's not so simple.

There's a temp sensor in the radiator, and a pressure sensor for the aircon.

If the aircon pressure sensor isnt plugged in, it assumes that the aircon is running, and it turns on the radiator fans.

You need to find the plug for this, and bridge it.

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04-22-2006, 02:36 AM	#61 (permalink)
Luni Cage Fighter Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Salt Lake City Utah Posts: 3,213 Thanks: 10 Thanked 130 Times in 110 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (8/100% )	It most definately will work. Just match the block codes. S series engine runs S53, S54, E153 (maybe more). You can use whatever you want in there. You could mate that engine up to a GT4 AWD drivetrain if you really wanted to.

04-22-2006, 03:12 AM	#62 (permalink)
PHOENIX Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: On Hiatus....... Posts: 9,266 Thanks: 92 Thanked 292 Times in 224 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (49/100% )	thanks, so i guess i should try to find a 94+ turbo tranny.

04-23-2006, 12:15 AM	#63 (permalink)
Luni Cage Fighter Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Salt Lake City Utah Posts: 3,213 Thanks: 10 Thanked 130 Times in 110 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (8/100% )	If youre gonna be turboing it yeah. If you used an S54 youd have to use a 5S flywheel and clutch disk and a 3S pressure plate and throw out bearing I believe.

04-23-2006, 12:27 AM	#64 (permalink)
PHOENIX Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: On Hiatus....... Posts: 9,266 Thanks: 92 Thanked 292 Times in 224 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (49/100% )	guys, check out the mk2 parts section if you want some info on Beams part numbers. I searched all day in japan for these and finally hit the jackpot for parts numbers. http://www.mr2board.com/forums/mk-2-part-numbers/

04-23-2006, 08:55 PM	#65 (permalink)
PHOENIX Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: On Hiatus....... Posts: 9,266 Thanks: 92 Thanked 292 Times in 224 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (49/100% )	got it! http://www.mr2board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5657

06-14-2006, 10:17 PM	#66 (permalink)
Roman Beams OCD Support Group Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 946 Thanks: 23 Thanked 56 Times in 36 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Personally, I'd rather run the NA tranny than a turbo one. To run a turbo tranny, you need the gearbox, new flywheel/clutch, half shafts, and hubs. Which are all different to the NA. My main concern with using the turbo box, is that the gear ratios arent optimised for an NA engine, and also the fact that it's considerably heavier than the Na box, as it is more heavy duty. You're not going to be making enough power r to destroy an NA box, and they're considerably cheaper if you do. It would be nice to have the LSD from a turbo box, but getting a TRD LSD for the NA box is always an option too. weight (or lack thereof) is the biggest weapon that the NA cars have. You dont have the torque ofa turbo motor, so any unnecessary weight has to go IMO. (Including a heavy turbo gbox)

07-06-2006, 10:54 AM	#67 (permalink)
WFX Beams Owners Group Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 352 Thanks: 9 Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Sorry to change the subject here... Does anyone know the paint code/colour of the BEAMS manifold and/or Cover? The cover actually looks darker then the manifold, the manifold looks simular to a Toyota Red but I wasnt quite sure! I wanted to repaint mine as it needs a recoat and wanted the same colours! On a side note I found some BEAMS Badges on Ebay: BEAMS Emblem Was thinking of using these where your standard V6, V8 badges would normally go on other cars! People would look at them and go huh?? Also try these ones too: TOYOTA Emblem VVT-i Emblem

07-06-2006, 06:52 PM	#68 (permalink)
PHOENIX Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: On Hiatus....... Posts: 9,266 Thanks: 92 Thanked 292 Times in 224 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (49/100% )	good question as i have to do the same.......hmmm Ill ask the toyota guys today when i head over there.

07-24-2006, 07:54 AM	#69 (permalink)
WFX Beams Owners Group Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 352 Thanks: 9 Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Does anyone know whats a good exhaust size for the BEAMS? Ive currently got 2 1/4" but from what Ive seen BEAMS is 2 1/2" stock. If I was to be making more power down the track would the pipe size be something I would need to consider increasing. Can anyone else shed extra light on the subject? Thanks!

07-25-2006, 04:22 AM	#70 (permalink)
WFX Beams Owners Group Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 352 Thanks: 9 Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Well I just had my exhaust re-done from 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" and DAMN it made a huge difference in the lower revs!! Insted of slowly picking up speed and then finally getting its power higher up the revs (say round 3500rpm) its now instance power from stand still!! So yeah Id say minmum 2 1/2" straight through is the way to go!!

07-25-2006, 04:36 AM	#71 (permalink)
PHOENIX Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: On Hiatus....... Posts: 9,266 Thanks: 92 Thanked 292 Times in 224 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (49/100% )	very nice! are you running aftermarket headers?

07-25-2006, 05:58 AM	#72 (permalink)
lander Beams Owners Group Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 24 Thanks: 1 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Hi I am still here :-)) Lander

07-25-2006, 06:47 AM	#73 (permalink)
PHOENIX Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: On Hiatus....... Posts: 9,266 Thanks: 92 Thanked 292 Times in 224 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (49/100% )	haha, hello lander, glad you made your way over to the beams section of this site

07-25-2006, 07:58 AM	#74 (permalink)
Roman Beams OCD Support Group Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 946 Thanks: 23 Thanked 56 Times in 36 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Yep it wouldnt be the same without Lander, the redtop > early SW20 swap pioneer.

07-25-2006, 07:22 PM	#76 (permalink)
Roman Beams OCD Support Group Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 946 Thanks: 23 Thanked 56 Times in 36 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	I've got aftermarket headers, but I've also got a spare set of factory ones to compare with. And yes I agree, the factory headers look quite nice. TOMS ones are slightly larger inside diameter, the 4-2 and 2-1 joins are different (The pipes have been spliced/welded together, rather than entering into a cast collector piece) And the direction the pipes take is a little different. On the standard extractors, one of the pipes (Either one or four, cant remember) sort of wraps under the other three, where as on mine, all four of them kind of twist around together.

07-25-2006, 09:39 PM	#77 (permalink)
WFX Beams Owners Group Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 352 Thanks: 9 Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Ah right nice info mine sounds standard then as I have that pipe that wraps under the other three!

08-11-2006, 07:29 AM	#78 (permalink)
WFX Beams Owners Group Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 352 Thanks: 9 Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Anyone know where the sender for the fan is? My fan is always on so must not be getting a signal from somewhere. Ive been told the ST202's have the sender in the radiator but I never got the radiator with my half cut so not sure. My ST184 had the sender in the themostat.

08-11-2006, 09:46 AM	#79 (permalink)
Roman Beams OCD Support Group Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 946 Thanks: 23 Thanked 56 Times in 36 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Argghhh it's not so simple. There's a temp sensor in the radiator, and a pressure sensor for the aircon. If the aircon pressure sensor isnt plugged in, it assumes that the aircon is running, and it turns on the radiator fans. You need to find the plug for this, and bridge it.