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| BEAMS Owners Group Discussion forum for the Beams Owners Group |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Aruba, #1 BEAMS Engine on the Island
Posts: 2,339
Thanks: 28
Thanked 57 Times in 56 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
MOTUL FTW!!1!`
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#23 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 1,250
Thanks: 13
Thanked 54 Times in 42 Posts
iTrader Rating: (2/100% ) |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Hungary
Posts: 385
Thanks: 11
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% ) |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: melbourne Australia
Posts: 46
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
Hi guys Just wondering toyota make a vvti oil for the beams what the difference between this and other oils .... i have had a bit to do w oil companies was sponsored by fuchs here in Aus with my historic sports car . now just finishing off my Dallara Beams hilclimb car im using shell racing solutions at moment w 75-90 gear oil used for the Hewland box would be good to hear about the vvti beams oil so i can see shell and ask the hard Question.....
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#28 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: victoria AUSTRALIA
Posts: 4,210
Thanks: 136
Thanked 112 Times in 107 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (6/100% ) |
Well ive been using it from the word go on my new engine.
Ive bought 2 boxes just in case they stop supply. Its not repacked at all ( backyard Toyota dealer ). Specified VVTi engine oil 10w30 and im happy, mind you my engine has 5,700 kms and ive changed the oil already 5 times ![]() BTW i got a box of filters free , mind you i bought a lot. So an oil change which i like doing is only $15 for me |
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#29 (permalink) | |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Perth, WA
Posts: 73
Thanks: 5
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Rating: (2/100% ) |
Quote:
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#30 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Aruba, #1 BEAMS Engine on the Island
Posts: 2,339
Thanks: 28
Thanked 57 Times in 56 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
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#31 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: victoria AUSTRALIA
Posts: 4,210
Thanks: 136
Thanked 112 Times in 107 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (6/100% ) |
Making sure i contribute to Australias stimulas in getting out of recession
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#32 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 1,250
Thanks: 13
Thanked 54 Times in 42 Posts
iTrader Rating: (2/100% ) |
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#34 (permalink) | |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Hungary
Posts: 385
Thanks: 11
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% ) |
Quote:
This is what I've heard. I've searched the net a bit, and now I see what fvillota was saying Everyone argues about this thin or thick oil issue, and I don't want to start an arguing here as well. Peace ![]() Maybe it depends on which climate we are living in. |
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#35 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Aruba, #1 BEAMS Engine on the Island
Posts: 2,339
Thanks: 28
Thanked 57 Times in 56 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
That is the #1 deciding factor, try running some thick as molasses oil in -32F....instant seize! The fact of the matter is the oil, regardless of weight, should operate within a certain spec at *normal* engine temperatures, within a particular age & build of the engine... worn out bearings means more of a gap to put oil in, so thicker would be nice-ish, very very tight tolerances on newer engines can make better use of the thinner oils. Colder climates need oils that can get to their proper viscosity at normal engine temps quicker, proper viscosity here being up to spec to the particular engine (worn, new, tight spec tolerances, break-in and so forth) etc. |
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#36 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Philippines
Posts: 94
Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
I am to have my first change oil this weekend (yes I've had the car for 6 mos. already but my travel is quite short
), I wanted to go straight full syn but was told that since we are not sure what oil was used before, it;s safer to go with semi-syn first, and see if it leaks, if no leaks orthe oil level stays the same, that's the time we can go to full-syn, also I was told that we could clean the engine better by running it with diesel oil for about 10 to 15 mins before going with the new oil, was told that this is better than those available engine flushes as they do leave residues. Any insights would help, thanks! ![]() |
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#37 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Inverness, Scotland
Posts: 479
Thanks: 8
Thanked 25 Times in 22 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
Engine oil: Castrol Magnatec 10w40 semi-synthetic
Gear box: Redline MT90 -can't remember which one but sticks in mind the LSD specific one ...Haven't had any problems with either. Engine oil changed every 3-4,000 miles or 3 times a year. Not reached the change out time on the gear box since it was last done. |
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#38 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 352
Thanks: 9
Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
I just filled mine up with Penrite Superthin 5W60!
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#39 (permalink) |
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Master MotorcycleMechanic
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When only the best will do (at the lowest price)...Rotella...see:
http://www.mr2.com/forums/na-5s-fe-3...46901-oil.html |
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#40 (permalink) | |
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Crazy Nasty Honey Badger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,235
Thanks: 24
Thanked 266 Times in 239 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
Quote:
I wish more people would pay attention to changing oil on a regular basis it preserves engines so much better and in the long run saves you money on repairs and such. I use 0W-30 in the beams altezza and everything else I have if I can help it that or 20w-50 on the old chev and stuff since they have clearances measured in metres ![]() |
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