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Old 05-10-2009, 11:37 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lion_HUN View Post
What kind of Mobil 1 do you guys use? I use Mobil 1 RF 5w50.
well i used to use, 10w-40 high mileage.
now I'm use 10w-30 high mileage
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Old 05-10-2009, 07:39 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Old 05-10-2009, 08:15 PM   #23 (permalink)
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What kind of Mobil 1 do you guys use? I use Mobil 1 RF 5w50.
In a stock BEAMS? If so you are killing your bearings.
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Old 05-10-2009, 11:15 PM   #24 (permalink)
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In a stock BEAMS? If so you are killing your bearings.
yea i though that was a little thick but since i know nothing about the beams i didnt want to say anything.
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:43 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
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In a stock BEAMS? If so you are killing your bearings.
I disagree. It's the thin oil that kills the bearings.
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:27 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I disagree. It's the thin oil that kills the bearings.
oh lord. ive heard sooo much about this that my head hurts.
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Old 05-11-2009, 10:26 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Hi guys Just wondering toyota make a vvti oil for the beams what the difference between this and other oils .... i have had a bit to do w oil companies was sponsored by fuchs here in Aus with my historic sports car . now just finishing off my Dallara Beams hilclimb car im using shell racing solutions at moment w 75-90 gear oil used for the Hewland box would be good to hear about the vvti beams oil so i can see shell and ask the hard Question.....
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Old 05-12-2009, 02:10 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Well ive been using it from the word go on my new engine.
Ive bought 2 boxes just in case they stop supply. Its not repacked at all ( backyard Toyota dealer ). Specified VVTi engine oil 10w30 and im happy, mind you my engine has 5,700 kms and ive changed the oil already 5 times
BTW i got a box of filters free , mind you i bought a lot. So an oil change which i like doing is only $15 for me
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Old 05-12-2009, 04:23 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
Well ive been using it from the word go on my new engine.
Ive bought 2 boxes just in case they stop supply. Its not repacked at all ( backyard Toyota dealer ). Specified VVTi engine oil 10w30 and im happy, mind you my engine has 5,700 kms and ive changed the oil already 5 times
BTW i got a box of filters free , mind you i bought a lot. So an oil change which i like doing is only $15 for me
5 times!! sounds like OCD to me
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:59 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
Ive bought 2 boxes just in case they stop supply. Its not repacked at all ( backyard Toyota dealer ). Specified VVTi engine oil 10w30 and im happy, mind you my engine has 5,700 kms and ive changed the oil already 5 times

OIL NAZI!!!!1!
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:10 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Old 05-13-2009, 02:19 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lion_HUN View Post
I disagree. It's the thin oil that kills the bearings.
How? Thinner oil less friction and makes faster warm-up times which is good for bearings. Which is why new cars run lighter and lighter oil. New Toyota's run 0w-20 here from factory!
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Old 05-13-2009, 02:50 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Servin View Post
How? Thinner oil less friction and makes faster warm-up times which is good for bearings. Which is why new cars run lighter and lighter oil. New Toyota's run 0w-20 here from factory!
yea my girls 08 scion runs 0w-20 too. its a 1.8 vvti engine.
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Old 05-13-2009, 03:09 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Servin View Post
How? Thinner oil less friction and makes faster warm-up times which is good for bearings. Which is why new cars run lighter and lighter oil. New Toyota's run 0w-20 here from factory!
Ok, as far as I know thin oil gets too "watery" on high temperature. Warming up is one thing, but the oil must provide the proper viscosity during the rest of the time. With thin oil, it's possible that metal to metal contact occurs at these sport engines.
This is what I've heard.

I've searched the net a bit, and now I see what fvillota was saying Everyone argues about this thin or thick oil issue, and I don't want to start an arguing here as well. Peace

Maybe it depends on which climate we are living in.
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Old 05-13-2009, 06:19 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lion_HUN View Post

Maybe it depends on which climate we are living in.

That is the #1 deciding factor, try running some thick as molasses oil in -32F....instant seize!


The fact of the matter is the oil, regardless of weight, should operate within a certain spec at *normal* engine temperatures, within a particular age & build of the engine...
worn out bearings means more of a gap to put oil in, so thicker would be nice-ish, very very tight tolerances on newer engines can make better use of the thinner oils.
Colder climates need oils that can get to their proper viscosity at normal engine temps quicker, proper viscosity here being up to spec to the particular engine (worn, new, tight spec tolerances, break-in and so forth) etc.
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Old 02-22-2010, 05:48 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I am to have my first change oil this weekend (yes I've had the car for 6 mos. already but my travel is quite short ), I wanted to go straight full syn but was told that since we are not sure what oil was used before, it;s safer to go with semi-syn first, and see if it leaks, if no leaks orthe oil level stays the same, that's the time we can go to full-syn, also I was told that we could clean the engine better by running it with diesel oil for about 10 to 15 mins before going with the new oil, was told that this is better than those available engine flushes as they do leave residues.

Any insights would help, thanks!
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Old 02-23-2010, 06:16 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Engine oil: Castrol Magnatec 10w40 semi-synthetic
Gear box: Redline MT90 -can't remember which one but sticks in mind the LSD specific one

...Haven't had any problems with either. Engine oil changed every 3-4,000 miles or 3 times a year. Not reached the change out time on the gear box since it was last done.
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Old 02-23-2010, 08:12 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I just filled mine up with Penrite Superthin 5W60!
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:10 AM   #39 (permalink)
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When only the best will do (at the lowest price)...Rotella...see:

http://www.mr2.com/forums/na-5s-fe-3...46901-oil.html
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:36 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AE101Jun View Post
I am to have my first change oil this weekend (yes I've had the car for 6 mos. already but my travel is quite short ), I wanted to go straight full syn but was told that since we are not sure what oil was used before, it;s safer to go with semi-syn first, and see if it leaks, if no leaks orthe oil level stays the same, that's the time we can go to full-syn, also I was told that we could clean the engine better by running it with diesel oil for about 10 to 15 mins before going with the new oil, was told that this is better than those available engine flushes as they do leave residues.

Any insights would help, thanks!
Diesel oil generally has a lot of detergents in it so yes it does act as a flushing agent if you run it in the engine. I use diesel oil like that what I do is put it in and run it for half an hour going on a drive or something then drop it out again and change the oil. I do that the next time I change oil as well then just keep up with regular changes after that. You have to be careful though because all that crud that gets washed out goes through the bearings etc especially from the blanked off drilled holes in the crank they are full of gunk from ill maintained engines.

I wish more people would pay attention to changing oil on a regular basis it preserves engines so much better and in the long run saves you money on repairs and such. I use 0W-30 in the beams altezza and everything else I have if I can help it that or 20w-50 on the old chev and stuff since they have clearances measured in metres
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