SUPERCHARGER

[puretone]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

Yeh right puretone
More like 320 Hp at the wheels

just trying to piss you off so you show me AS SOON AS POSSIBLE how much that thing does put down to the ground!

[MANDALAY]

Want to put an oil temp sensor in my system.
What do you think, put a tee piece where the oil pressure sensor is then use one side for the pressure and the other for temp.

[puretone]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

Want to put an oil temp sensor in my system.
What do you think, put a tee piece where the oil pressure sensor is then use one side for the pressure and the other for temp.

those tend to work just fine, I had one on my 5S turbo build, Honda boys always put a T somewhere along the oil feed line.....

Are you using oil feed line from the Rotrex kit itself?

[MANDALAY]

The ROTREX has its own separate setup independant of the engine.
Resivour, oil cooler , filter and lines.
While i get the MoTec hmay as well put as many sebsors as i can. I'ld imagine oil temp would be valuable as a tunning thing to slow things down if they get tooo hot

[assassin10000]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

Want to put an oil temp sensor in my system.
What do you think, put a tee piece where the oil pressure sensor is then use one side for the pressure and the other for temp.

In the AE86 world we've found that using a brass 'T' fitting directly on the block for stock & aftermarket oil pressure senders isn't a good idea. Placing the stock sender and a aftermarket on the 'T' is too much weight when combined with the engine vibration and they're commonly known to break. The few guys that don't eliminate the stock sender, use a short braided line then a 'T' to isolate it from most of the vibration & prevent breakage. So I'd recommend you do the same.

Andrew

[MANDALAY]

I was thinking of machining it out of stainless steel ?

[puretone]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

I was thinking of machining it out of stainless steel ?

all bow down to MANDALAY's feet, he's sparing no $ for cheap brass

[MANDALAY]

Powder coating done Really like the finished items.
Will post the setup connected .
Only have to powder coat the catch can set up and make the oil cooler brackets. Still a bit more to go
In my eyes better than bling

[MANDALAY]

Here we go...

i hope you all like

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Powder coating all my hose claps
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New block and the pistons and crankbearings that come with it
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[MANDALAY]

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Water hard lines for the A/W set up
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Made a bracket to hold the OEM catch can. Next to it is a resivour to hold any oil drain as i didnt want it to be recirculated back to the engine
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View from top . All hiden under the inlet manifold The rest of the body of the ROTREX will get a light coat of black paint
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View from top . See no drive shaft interferance

[MANDALAY]

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AC copressor slightly touching the idler bracket. Needs about 5mm removed
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[MANDALAY]

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My old air con radiator with the brackets made to hold the A/W radiator. Ued factory bolts to hold the brackets

[MANDALAY]

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[MANDALAY]

There is one one last thing that is bugging me. The SC has very good wrap around vertually 300 degrees but its only a PK4. My engineer still believes its too small, There is a possibility of lifting he says.
So if i use a PK8 ILL have to do some more machining. Anew crank pulley with 8 rib on the inside and 4 on the outside.Then ill have to make new pulleys for the alternator and the Air Con as they all have to be extebded.
On another forum a guy has done this so it would fit, Once theengine is in there will be no opportunity to modify it. What do you reckon ?
Also ill prefer to use steel as those parts are steel and ive aeen people use alloy for the crank only to have problems, that is unbalance the engine.

[ebouwman]

Don't you get them balanced anyways?

Looks great though mandalay! That piping thats been powdercoated really looks like plastic, looks really OEM. It all looks really sweet.

[puretone]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

There is one one last thing that is bugging me. The SC has very good wrap around vertually 300 degrees but its only a PK4. My engineer still believes its too small, There is a possibility of lifting he says.
So if i use a PK8 ILL have to do some more machining. Anew crank pulley with 8 rib on the inside and 4 on the outside.Then ill have to make new pulleys for the alternator and the Air Con as they all have to be extebded.
On another forum a guy has done this so it would fit, Once theengine is in there will be no opportunity to modify it. What do you reckon ?
Also ill prefer to use steel as those parts are steel and ive aeen people use alloy for the crank only to have problems, that is unbalance the engine.

what's this PK4 / PK8 business? I am lost.....

*<drumroll>*


MOTHER ****ER THAT THING LOOKS RIDICULOUSLY TIIIIIIIIIIIIGHT!!1!

[MANDALAY]

Number of v grooves.
PK4 ------- 4 vee belt.
Talked to my engineer and he said go with 6 v for the SC and 5 v for the alternator/Air Con and idler.
Oh well more machining...........................

[Servin]

It's only a little bit more work for added security so why not? And yes stick with steel on a S/C set-up, on a NA I would say it's ok to use a lightened/alloy crank pulley. But not on a FI system.

[Roman]

Wouldnt reccomend going without the harmonic balancer.

[MANDALAY]

^ ? We dont have a harmonic balancer. Ours are just steel solid pulleys