beams maf cut into a rubber intake hose. Just don't do it.

[Servin]

I dont know those other pics i posted have aftermarket intake units with that so called "resonator cone" purposely built into it. 3

I know my 5SFE has something similar but its more box shape and that looks completely different that what I have seen.

I think Roman is on the right path. So far his engine is the only one that has Dyno'd correct numbers for a BEAMS. All the others seem rather low for the claimed crank power we are supposed to have. I think that resonator serves a bigger purpose than simply muffling sound. It makes sense because the 5SFE makes no additional power when fitted with a aftermarket intake. I think it has to do with the removal of that box.

We can see, I will have my BEAMS running probably at the end of the October. I plan on dynoing my car to get a baseline. Depending on the results I will be running a series of tests until i get my desired whp. Any one know if the 1MZ airbox is the exact same? I know you can use it if you dont have a standard air box which I dont.

[94MR2]

Ill have to post up a pic when I get home as my stock beams intake is a bit different than the ones on here. Mine has that black box right before the tb in the 45 degree angle in the intake pipe that goes on the tb. Its on the underside of that bend.

[Servin]

I have that peice aswell its right before the TB. The piece in question is the part right after the air filter housing.

[94MR2]

I understand that the piece in question in at the end of the intake system. But dont you think that maybe it would have a similar effect to the intake system as it is about the exact same thing that is at the end of the intake?. Is anyone 100% sure all stock beams intake systems have the 2 boxes?

[MANDALAY]

Originally Posted by Servin

I dont know those other pics i posted have aftermarket intake units with that so called "resonator cone" purposely built into it. 3

I know my 5SFE has something similar but its more box shape and that looks completely different that what I have seen.

I think Roman is on the right path. So far his engine is the only one that has Dyno'd correct numbers for a BEAMS. All the others seem rather low for the claimed crank power we are supposed to have. I think that resonator serves a bigger purpose than simply muffling sound. It makes sense because the 5SFE makes no additional power when fitted with a aftermarket intake. I think it has to do with the removal of that box.

We can see, I will have my BEAMS running probably at the end of the October. I plan on dynoing my car to get a baseline. Depending on the results I will be running a series of tests until i get my desired whp. Any one know if the 1MZ airbox is the exact same? I know you can use it if you dont have a standard air box which I dont.

Mine will go in for Dyno very soon. Just wanted to get a few KM's on her

[MANDALAY]

Mine is all factory and yes it has the main air box and also 2 other boxes
Have a look at my car on page 2 of the ownters list. You can see the little one and there is another on much bigger underneath it up against the fire wall.
Those with the EPC or manual can see it.
Everything that l have reading lately point that you just cant put the maf in a tube and think it will work.
Short straight tubes with the Maf is prone to pulsating. People put anes and what not , even honey comb to even out the air flow. My 2cents

[Servin]

Ill look forward to what your results will be mate. When you go please ask what type of dyno it is, if there is any correction, smoothing, what levels if yes, reads crank hp or whp. Also if possible can you write down the temp, and humidity, octane level used. Also make sure you dyno in 4th gear! That is the gear closest to having a 1:1 ratio. Last bit is some dyno shops offer A/R readings aswell for a little bit more I highly recommend getting that as this will tell you alot about the car aswell.

It really has been bugging me ever since i first saw the dyno sticky. These motors are all fairly new, I doubt we have a member with a BEAMS that has 100,000 Miles on it. So they should be fairly healthy yet for some reason they dyno 140-150whp. That is Gen3 3SGE numbers. In fact i have seen 165whp before on fairly stock Gen3's so a BEAMS should be putting at minimum 160whp but really around the 170whp range STOCK. So I'm trying to see what exactly it is that is plaguing us and the only link that i can see is the intake never being stock.

I wish i could see my CD but i upgraded to Adobe 9 and they don't have the Japanese language pack out yet so all i get is 5 pages with nothing on them.

[MANDALAY]

Well before the beams l had the last version of the 3SGE. Remember my car is a 1999.
With the Red Top without a doubt its stronger. The Red Top is supposed to be 147 KW whereas the previous engine was 125 KW . I feel the cam being more aggressive with a turbo rush at around 4,000 revs and it just wants to keep going.

I tell you when you see the CD it will be an eye opener Information is great. Just takes time to translate.

[Roman]

Originally Posted by Servin

So I'm trying to see what exactly it is that is plaguing us and the only link that i can see is the intake never being stock.

My theories...

Not having the speedo signal going to the ECU properly, thanks to being swapped into a different car.

People having stupidly big/heavy wheels.

Running on lower octane gas than what it should run on.

And/or problems with the MAF being in a turbulent housing or whatever.

I dynoed mine initially with MAF in a custom housing, and had 150hp ATW and running MEGA lean.

Got a stock airbox, gained a MASSIVE amount of low end and midrange, and dynoed 170hp ATW... And that was with an 'auto' motor which is apparently 190hp (Although perhaps all of the redtops are 200?)

I reckon it would be interesting to see back to back dyno with two different sets of wheels, see how much power you do (or dont) lose via having big heavy wheels vs some light weight ones.

[Lion_HUN]

Originally Posted by Roman

My theories...

Not having the speedo signal going to the ECU properly, thanks to being swapped into a different car.

Isn't the speedo signal coming from the engine? How can being in a different car affect that?

[94MR2]

Won't we hit the top speed limiter in 4th gear? The speedo signal comes from the transmission speed sensor. Assuming your using an electric sensor, it is 3 pins. 1 pin is +12v, 1 pin ground, and the other pin feeds to the ecu and gauge cluster. Assuming the speed sensor you use is compatable with the beams ecu, I see no problem with the car its in.

[Servin]

Originally Posted by Roman

My theories...

Not having the speedo signal going to the ECU properly, thanks to being swapped into a different car.

People having stupidly big/heavy wheels.

Running on lower octane gas than what it should run on.

And/or problems with the MAF being in a turbulent housing or whatever.

I dynoed mine initially with MAF in a custom housing, and had 150hp ATW and running MEGA lean.

Got a stock airbox, gained a MASSIVE amount of low end and midrange, and dynoed 170hp ATW... And that was with an 'auto' motor which is apparently 190hp (Although perhaps all of the redtops are 200?)

I reckon it would be interesting to see back to back dyno with two different sets of wheels, see how much power you do (or dont) lose via having big heavy wheels vs some light weight ones.

See thats my point you gained alot by having the stock airbox meaning its the MAF that dislikes being messed with. I also thought perhaps its running on too low of an octane still sont know about that one.


Speedo senosr should be fine as long as the adapter was installed properly and the proper kind.

All Redtops are 200 BHP or 197 PS Auto or Manual. Its the Greytop in the Caldina that are 190 HP. On a side note I have heard that celica's also came with greytops?

Big heavy wheels will sap power I didnt think about that. Luckily I have 16"s that weigh about 13lbs/5.9kgs each so im in the green. Then later Ill be swapping to 16" TE37's which are about 11lbs/4.5 kgs. Every lb/kg counts!

[94MR2]

Greytop in caldina is 10hp short mainly due to the 2 cats in the header. I have never seen a factory greytop celica. Roman you gained a heck of alot from that stock airbox. Yea this maf seems to be real picky. Do you think it has to do with the piping size and filter or due to the mysterious "resonator box"?? Anyone have a stock airbox for sale?? I have yet to see what a 1mz box looks like.

[Lion_HUN]

Originally Posted by 94MR2

Won't we hit the top speed limiter in 4th gear? The speedo signal comes from the transmission speed sensor. Assuming your using an electric sensor, it is 3 pins. 1 pin is +12v, 1 pin ground, and the other pin feeds to the ecu and gauge cluster. Assuming the speed sensor you use is compatable with the beams ecu, I see no problem with the car its in.

The speedo signal comes from the transmission, the transmission came with the engine so it must be right, right?

Btw, I didn't have the stock airbox either but I managed to get one thanks to Mandalay. I replaced the SARD kit with the airbox and custom piping and it's definetely better altough it's not perfect and not completely ready yet.

[MANDALAY]

Originally Posted by 94MR2

Greytop in caldina is 10hp short mainly due to the 2 cats in the header. I have never seen a factory greytop celica. Roman you gained a heck of alot from that stock airbox. Yea this maf seems to be real picky. Do you think it has to do with the piping size and filter or due to the mysterious "resonator box"?? Anyone have a stock airbox for sale?? I have yet to see what a 1mz box looks like.

I bought a new one from Toyota $550 aussie. Then with the other 2 boxes, 3 inch pipe to TB its up to $900 OEM IS DEAR,
Not many MR2 clips around . They are mainly engines and from Celica's

[94MR2]

Servin, What intake are you going to use?

[mr220v]

It's best just to use one of those ebay pipe/filter combos. They're cheap and are the correct diameter.

Pipe diameter is about the only thing that affects this.

[midnite]

dude for the speedo what voltage output is the beams suppose to take? Is it compatible with the voltage output by the mk1 gauge speed wire? Currently I have the stock speedo connect but ziptied to something and the mechanical speedo of the mk1 in the tranny which fee the gauge and the speed signal wire from the gauge connect to the ecu. Is this work? Because I get no fuel cut up to 8k rev and no speed cut neither.

[Mroku]

I've tried running V-power max racing whatever it's called which has 100ron rating, but the my car felt the same.

Being an ae86 I cannot get a stock box to fit either. My car is making 100rwkw atm. I have te37's on it which weigh about 4kg each so I doubt that could be doing anything to the power. (My gen 2 3sge made 94rwkw on the same dyno. There should be roughly 30kw difference at the fly between the gen 2 and beams motor yet I only made 6kw more atw).

My theory:
- Non-standard intake setup causing flat spot issues
-Exhaust system is only 2.25" restricting power .. On another forum, a guy has tested and found running only the extractors opened up a lot of power up top. However this was from a worked beams motor so I'm not sure if it applies to a standard beams motor.

[Lion_HUN]

Originally Posted by midnite

dude for the speedo what voltage output is the beams suppose to take? Is it compatible with the voltage output by the mk1 gauge speed wire? Currently I have the stock speedo connect but ziptied to something and the mechanical speedo of the mk1 in the tranny which fee the gauge and the speed signal wire from the gauge connect to the ecu. Is this work? Because I get no fuel cut up to 8k rev and no speed cut neither.

Back than when my speed signal was not connected, the rev limit worked anyway, the only thing was that check engine light came up if I drived over 80kph.