3S cooling system 'circuit diagram'.

Roman · 10-08-2008, 03:41 AM

I am trying to figure out what to do with some water lines for my 3S.

I've got the main water lines sorted.... The thermostat housing line and the rear water outlet running to the radiator, easy enough.

However I'm a bit muddled as to the rest of it.

There's the lines that run from the thermostat housing/water inlet to the oil cooler, which are the same lines which run to the heater and/or the rear water outlet.

I've had to cut down my rear water outlet to make it fit in RWD config, and I'm not sure if I need to run any pipes of the smaller pipes back to here.

Is there a flow diagram or something available, or anyone know?

Or does someone have a good idea of how it works or what I need to do?

Not much space down the back of the motor, if I can avoid running more lines to the rear water outlet, it'll save me some trouble.

But I dont quite understand how it all ties together.

Since the heater circuit 'closes' when the heater is off, I dont want to be shutting part of another water circuit that's necessary, because I've got it plumbed wrong... if you know what I mean.

Thanks
Dave

2muchfun · 10-08-2008, 08:21 PM

I need to know if you are using the Celica waterneck or the MR2 water neck. First, the heater controll valve cuts circulation off from the front trunk. If you use the Celica water neck you will need to run one line from the water neck to the top copper line on the fire wall for the heater core, and the other line you will use is facing the intake side of the engine. Run a line from that to the lower copper line on the front firewall. There is a hard line on any MK2 MR2 (NA and Turbo) that bolts through the trans to the block that allows you to run the heater hoses much cleaner but it requires a hose on eather end. If you need a pic of this let me know and I will do my best.

My descriptions suck as I have a hard time putting words to the ideas in my head. ADD is a killer!!!!!!

As I said the MR2 configuration stock is much cleaner.

I hope my rambling helped,
Brad.

Roman · 10-09-2008, 04:53 AM

Hi Brad,

Aaahh sorry! I should have been clearer. I'm not putting this engine into an SW20, (been there done that already!) it's an SW20 engine with a mish mash of parts from altezza, celica, corona, etc etc for various reasons to make it fit in an older front engined rwd car.

The rear water outlet that I've got is from a celica, but I've had to cut it down a bit to make it fit by the firewall.

I've figured out what those pipes are for though... When the thermostat is closed and not letting the water pump suck any water from the radiator, it sucks the water back down from the rear water outlet, and pumps it through again. So I definitely need these pipes running to the rear outlet, or somewhere near!

P.S. Here's a pic of where I'm at so far. (Yes I do have the 4th trumpet, just had 3 in to test fit the airbox

)

MANDALAY · 10-09-2008, 10:19 AM

puretone · 10-09-2008, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roman

P.S. Here's a pic of where I'm at so far. (Yes I do have the 4th trumpet, just had 3 in to test fit the airbox

)

http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/9542/dsc01231uq7.jpg

I HATE YOU and your sexy ITB's and your saucey BlackTop and your hot RWD setup and and and omg blaaaaaaast!

6xxx · 10-09-2008, 10:12 PM

nice picture of the car???

Roman · 10-09-2008, 10:27 PM

Aaahh sure, I'll post some up some more pics and info when I get home from work in an hour or 2.

2muchfun · 10-09-2008, 10:34 PM

So let me try to understand.

QUOTE:
-There's the lines that run from the thermostat housing/water inlet to the oil cooler, which are the same lines which run to the heater and/or the rear water outlet.

I've had to cut down my rear water outlet to make it fit in RWD config, and I'm not sure if I need to run any pipes of the smaller pipes back to here.
END QUOTE:

The lines from the water inlet are the same as the small lines coming out of the back of the water pump? I will call them W/P inlet lines. Yes they go to the heater core and inlet for the oil cooler. Just bare with me.

Here is the flow pattern. Water pump pushes water through the big hole in the block, from there it travels through the head to the water neck. (trans side with the temp sensor in it). Out the water neck (small hole on intake side of water neck) to the heater core. Out the heater core to the long water pump inlet line. From there the inlet line has a "T" that feeds the oil cooler. Water flows out the oil cooler back into the block. The other side of that "T" goes to the outer most water pump inlet line. The inner most water pump inlet line gets metered water from the water neck. It is metered by the opening and closing of the thermostat.

I hope this makes sense. I just tore apart my Celica beams water system, including the water pump. If anyone finds a flaw in my explanation, please let me know.

I hope this helps,
Brad.

Roman · 10-10-2008, 08:32 AM

The lines from the rear outlet run to BEFORE the waterpump, but AFTER the thermostat.

So when the thermostat is open, the majority of the flow goes:

Radiator > thermostat > waterpump > engine > rear outlet > back to radiator.

However when the thermostat is shut, the waterpump obviously cant suck any more water through from there.

So it sucks water back down from the rear outlet, via those two pipes which also go to the heater and oil cooler.

So the flow goes waterpump > engine > rear outlet > bypass lines > waterpump.

If those lines werent there, then there wouldnt be any circulation when the thermostat is shut.

But yep I think we're on the same wavelength here, and I think I've got it figured out!

Thanks.

NCMR2 · 11-28-2009, 11:45 PM

so, what and where do I need to hook up the coolant lines in my MR2? this stuff is over my head and I have done all the searching I can do.

Roman · 11-29-2009, 04:49 AM

Most of what has been said in this thread is irrelevant when you're running a motor in the MR2, if you've got the MR2 water outlet!

Just one pipe going to the standard radiator cap thing in the engine bay, one pipe going to one end of radiator, and other going to the other.

That's all you really need, but if you're feeling fancy you can hook up the heater lines, and heated lines to the throttle body...

10-08-2008, 03:41 AM	#1 (permalink)
Roman Beams OCD Support Group Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 946 Thanks: 23 Thanked 56 Times in 36 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	3S cooling system 'circuit diagram'. I am trying to figure out what to do with some water lines for my 3S. I've got the main water lines sorted.... The thermostat housing line and the rear water outlet running to the radiator, easy enough. However I'm a bit muddled as to the rest of it. There's the lines that run from the thermostat housing/water inlet to the oil cooler, which are the same lines which run to the heater and/or the rear water outlet. I've had to cut down my rear water outlet to make it fit in RWD config, and I'm not sure if I need to run any pipes of the smaller pipes back to here. Is there a flow diagram or something available, or anyone know? Or does someone have a good idea of how it works or what I need to do? Not much space down the back of the motor, if I can avoid running more lines to the rear water outlet, it'll save me some trouble. But I dont quite understand how it all ties together. Since the heater circuit 'closes' when the heater is off, I dont want to be shutting part of another water circuit that's necessary, because I've got it plumbed wrong... if you know what I mean. Thanks Dave Last edited by Roman; 10-08-2008 at 03:54 AM..

10-09-2008, 04:53 AM	#3 (permalink)
Roman Beams OCD Support Group Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 946 Thanks: 23 Thanked 56 Times in 36 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Hi Brad, Aaahh sorry! I should have been clearer. I'm not putting this engine into an SW20, (been there done that already!) it's an SW20 engine with a mish mash of parts from altezza, celica, corona, etc etc for various reasons to make it fit in an older front engined rwd car. The rear water outlet that I've got is from a celica, but I've had to cut it down a bit to make it fit by the firewall. I've figured out what those pipes are for though... When the thermostat is closed and not letting the water pump suck any water from the radiator, it sucks the water back down from the rear water outlet, and pumps it through again. So I definitely need these pipes running to the rear outlet, or somewhere near! P.S. Here's a pic of where I'm at so far. (Yes I do have the 4th trumpet, just had 3 in to test fit the airbox ) Last edited by Roman; 10-09-2008 at 05:00 AM..

10-09-2008, 10:34 PM	#8 (permalink)
2muchfun Beams Owners Group Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Wake Forest, NC Posts: 79 Thanks: 7 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	So let me try to understand. QUOTE: -There's the lines that run from the thermostat housing/water inlet to the oil cooler, which are the same lines which run to the heater and/or the rear water outlet. I've had to cut down my rear water outlet to make it fit in RWD config, and I'm not sure if I need to run any pipes of the smaller pipes back to here. END QUOTE: The lines from the water inlet are the same as the small lines coming out of the back of the water pump? I will call them W/P inlet lines. Yes they go to the heater core and inlet for the oil cooler. Just bare with me. Here is the flow pattern. Water pump pushes water through the big hole in the block, from there it travels through the head to the water neck. (trans side with the temp sensor in it). Out the water neck (small hole on intake side of water neck) to the heater core. Out the heater core to the long water pump inlet line. From there the inlet line has a "T" that feeds the oil cooler. Water flows out the oil cooler back into the block. The other side of that "T" goes to the outer most water pump inlet line. The inner most water pump inlet line gets metered water from the water neck. It is metered by the opening and closing of the thermostat. I hope this makes sense. I just tore apart my Celica beams water system, including the water pump. If anyone finds a flaw in my explanation, please let me know. I hope this helps, Brad. Last edited by 2muchfun; 10-09-2008 at 10:54 PM..

10-10-2008, 08:32 AM	#9 (permalink)
Roman Beams OCD Support Group Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 946 Thanks: 23 Thanked 56 Times in 36 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	The lines from the rear outlet run to BEFORE the waterpump, but AFTER the thermostat. So when the thermostat is open, the majority of the flow goes: Radiator > thermostat > waterpump > engine > rear outlet > back to radiator. However when the thermostat is shut, the waterpump obviously cant suck any more water through from there. So it sucks water back down from the rear outlet, via those two pipes which also go to the heater and oil cooler. So the flow goes waterpump > engine > rear outlet > bypass lines > waterpump. If those lines werent there, then there wouldnt be any circulation when the thermostat is shut. But yep I think we're on the same wavelength here, and I think I've got it figured out! Thanks. Last edited by Roman; 10-10-2008 at 08:45 AM..

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10-08-2008, 08:21 PM	#2 (permalink)
2muchfun Beams Owners Group Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Wake Forest, NC Posts: 79 Thanks: 7 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I need to know if you are using the Celica waterneck or the MR2 water neck. First, the heater controll valve cuts circulation off from the front trunk. If you use the Celica water neck you will need to run one line from the water neck to the top copper line on the fire wall for the heater core, and the other line you will use is facing the intake side of the engine. Run a line from that to the lower copper line on the front firewall. There is a hard line on any MK2 MR2 (NA and Turbo) that bolts through the trans to the block that allows you to run the heater hoses much cleaner but it requires a hose on eather end. If you need a pic of this let me know and I will do my best. My descriptions suck as I have a hard time putting words to the ideas in my head. ADD is a killer!!!!!! As I said the MR2 configuration stock is much cleaner. I hope my rambling helped, Brad.

10-09-2008, 10:19 AM	#4 (permalink)
MANDALAY Beams Owners Group Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: victoria AUSTRALIA Posts: 4,210 Thanks: 136 Thanked 112 Times in 107 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (6/100% )	nice

10-09-2008, 10:12 PM	#6 (permalink)
6xxx BMXer Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 171 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	nice picture of the car???

10-09-2008, 10:27 PM	#7 (permalink)
Roman Beams OCD Support Group Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 946 Thanks: 23 Thanked 56 Times in 36 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Aaahh sure, I'll post some up some more pics and info when I get home from work in an hour or 2.

11-28-2009, 11:45 PM	#10 (permalink)
NCMR2 Beams Owners Group Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 170 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	so, what and where do I need to hook up the coolant lines in my MR2? this stuff is over my head and I have done all the searching I can do.

11-29-2009, 04:49 AM	#11 (permalink)
Roman Beams OCD Support Group Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 946 Thanks: 23 Thanked 56 Times in 36 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Most of what has been said in this thread is irrelevant when you're running a motor in the MR2, if you've got the MR2 water outlet! Just one pipe going to the standard radiator cap thing in the engine bay, one pipe going to one end of radiator, and other going to the other. That's all you really need, but if you're feeling fancy you can hook up the heater lines, and heated lines to the throttle body...