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Old 04-04-2009, 08:48 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
Should have a look at the spare engine while i have it , but whats to machine / clear as Glenn mentioned sump ? Is the head or the bolts that hold the crankshaft ? im confused.
Picturs are welcome
main bearings or the caps not sure, I think the studs might stick out a bit
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Old 04-04-2009, 10:59 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Ok to the head off . Now i can see whats happening. The standard bolts are cap heads so there is no issues. With the ARP obviously they are atuds with nuts. The issue is that the opening for the bolt to go through is just enough to clear the cap head 16.8 mm.
A 11 mm socket OD is the same 16.8 mm so it clears but a 12 mm socket is 17.8
So eiather open her up which im not going to do as im not rebuilding the head. There would be aluminium shavings all over the place. So before anyone rebuilds their head DO THIS. Ill see what ARP can say = solution and at the same time talk to socket suppliers
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Old 04-04-2009, 11:12 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
Ok to the head off . Now i can see whats happening. The standard bolts are cap heads so there is no issues. With the ARP obviously they are atuds with nuts. The issue is that the opening for the bolt to go through is just enough to clear the cap head 16.8 mm.
A 11 mm socket OD is the same 16.8 mm so it clears but a 12 mm socket is 17.8
So eiather open her up which im not going to do as im not rebuilding the head. There would be aluminium shavings all over the place. So before anyone rebuilds their head DO THIS. Ill see what ARP can say = solution and at the same time talk to socket suppliers

Dude be a man, do ze light fing, you come today, you say tomowwow all gone now you wan machines head and now you come tell me you want to tly and do this. Stuff the damn thing with rags & show towels, machine that .5mm all around and the new ones fit, yeay. No shortcuts, blow up engine because of some bunk bolt that doesn't hold on to the 8psi you put in.......remember the engine is out right now.....
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Old 04-05-2009, 07:12 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Nah buddy, Will see the engineers tomorrow get the strongest socket available and grind down the outside diameter so as to fit. Then test the socket with the torque required to tighten the head.
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Old 04-05-2009, 06:48 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Done deal, another hurdle over come. Saw the engineers this morning and they said they have already done it before In actual fact he showed me the socket.
All that has to be shaved of the diameter is 0.85 mm. So he is going to machine me one with a longer socket. $25 sure cheaper than rebuilding the head and risking shavings.
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Old 04-05-2009, 08:25 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
Done deal, another hurdle over come. Saw the engineers this morning and they said they have already done it before In actual fact he showed me the socket.
All that has to be shaved of the diameter is 0.85 mm. So he is going to machine me one with a longer socket. $25 sure cheaper than rebuilding the head and risking shavings.


prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrretty damned badass! That's a good thing they know about it. And it holds the amount of torque you have to use too? It won't crack the socket? And the nut does fit in there flush as well?
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Old 04-05-2009, 11:19 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Well they used it for another application. Ill look up the torque setting for our bolts on the manual and then get them to test it and see haow it holds up. But realistally like they said the narrowest part of the socket has a wall thickness of 2 mm. After grinding its 1.55. Should be ok , we will see. Even so i could get a few ground up.
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Old 04-06-2009, 01:15 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
Well they used it for another application. Ill look up the torque setting for our bolts on the manual and then get them to test it and see haow it holds up. But realistally like they said the narrowest part of the socket has a wall thickness of 2 mm. After grinding its 1.55. Should be ok , we will see. Even so i could get a few ground up.

slick!
What material is the tool? Chrome-Vanadium?
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:04 AM   #69 (permalink)
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No idea ill ask them. Hey whats the torque setting for the bolts
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Old 04-06-2009, 07:15 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
No idea ill ask them. Hey whats the torque setting for the bolts
Check with ARP, the specs according to Toyota factory manual do *NOT* apply because the ARP studs/bolts/nuts all have different stretch specs.
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Old 04-06-2009, 11:18 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Well ill be damed. Went of to buy a few 12 mm long sockets to machine down to the OD 16.7 mm same as the 11 mm sockets. Gave them to the engineering shop only to get a call 10 minutes later with them saying what machining do you need done ? Why i said and the responce was they are already 16.7 mm ................................ There you go.
Everyone go out and get the ARP bolts
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Old 04-06-2009, 11:32 PM   #72 (permalink)
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BTW They are Chrome-Vanadium. $10 , Sure beats machining the head
Hope " SUPER RARE KEITH " doesnt see it or they will be called a beams socket , VERY VERY RARE and cost $500 each
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Old 04-07-2009, 12:17 AM   #73 (permalink)
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CrVa is where it's at, SnapOn for the win.
Dude that is kind of embarrassing, didn't you measure it before hand?!


So it turns out to be just the entire 3S-GTE bolt kit from ARP right?
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Old 04-07-2009, 12:47 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Didn't have my vernier calipers on me. Just assumed they were bigger.
So yes these special 11mm ARP not required ( BTW which ARP doesnt even know what im talking about , after i called them today ). Just the whole 3S-GTE KIT and a thin walled 12 mm socket.
Hurdle solved
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Old 04-07-2009, 05:06 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Well ive just tried the socket on the spare engine.
No problem with room to spare Totally STOKED !!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:56 AM   #76 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
Well ive just tried the socket on the spare engine.
No problem with room to spare Totally STOKED !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well I'll be (correction: am) damned and here I was thinking the kit wouldn't work because they were either too long in the head or something like this where machining would be required. Now I wonder if the gen2/3 3SGE or 5SFE bolts will do for the clutch/flywheel....any ideas?
More bling bling for your engine bro, I'm happy for you!

now......






































IS IT DONE YET?!
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Old 04-07-2009, 06:56 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Well if the head bolts share the same part number for both Turbo and Beams then the ARP kit will fit.
Already checked on the Toyota EPC. The flywheel bolts and crankshaft bolts also share the same number between the Turbo and the Beams ........................
No its not done yet . Sanding my pipe work and doing little brackets for piping.
AND YOU POSTED ON THE WRONG THREAD
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Old 04-08-2009, 03:26 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Quote:
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AND YOU POSTED ON THE WRONG THREAD
You cannot hide from him
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:50 AM   #79 (permalink)
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here you can clearly see a 12mm socket fiting over the 12mm nut, no need for an 11mm nut, which does not exist according to ARP
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Old 04-11-2009, 03:10 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
here you can clearly see a 12mm socket fiting over the 12mm nut, no need for an 11mm nut, which does not exist according to ARP
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/714...5938776140.jpg
what the heck is that blue sh*t?!
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