SHORT BLOCK

[puretone]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

Final word, YOU CANNOT take the head off without dropping the engine.
Stripped the engine, took the front and back bumpers off , engine lid and boot lid.
Its of to the engineers ro drop the engine..................This has been a long day 16 hrs straight. I am stuffed !!!!!!!!

Dummy

I like the new squirters much better, I think I may be seeing my squirters badly or I'm confused as to what I am looking at....from the angle I can't tell really but they look like the machined ones, I bet they are the old ones though. Dark & oil crap & looking at them from the bottom of my car probably plays trick on the mind.

I'm a fan of long studs, the amount of stretch over a longer distance would seem much more beneficial, just that it might start looking like a porcupine.

I'm real curious to see what data it is or rather what preference they have of the angle/area of the flame & squish....kinda wondering if my hunch is correct



























































not done yet, is it?

[MANDALAY]

Ill ask him, cant hurt , all he can say thats why you payed me
I know on one of his racing engines a piston was done may times over.

? you got your engine open ?

Well, if you have you can touch it with the piston TDC, Thats what i did . You can see the allen boly is higher than the body.

We realised it when the correct part number bolts werent going to lock iy down. TOO LONG.
BTW the clip i bought has the older style Nov 1998 manufacture but the new short block in the car that i bought has the newer ones........

[MANDALAY]

well be starting on the short block again Holidays are over.
Sent out my manifold , the 2 brackets and all the shields ,( oil cooler,manifold and fire wall ) to get ceramic coated. I sent also all the nuts bolts and studs. All to be finished in Satin Silver.
Im also getting the Rotrex pulley remade so that it is only 6 pk and have shoulders and smaller diameter down to 90 mm. This will improve low rpm power even more and peak power / speed of the Rotrex at 7200 rpm. Im not planning and never wanted to rev is past that .
The idler pulleys also need to be widend and with shoulders.
Wiring is being done as we speak. Man you gotta like that Motec TEFZEL wire with its teflon insulation.

[MANDALAY]

Now that its out in the open i can share a bit of new information with you guys.
I take NO credit for this.
Fundamentaly no matter the equipment you have and $ put into an engine, it will always come back to the tuner. If you dont want it to go bang knocking will have to be controlled.
THIS IS FOR ANYONE WITH AN AFTERMARKET ECU ONLY.
If you didnt know already our knock sensors on our 3SGE/GTE are resonant type with a very narrow band.
Your aftermarket ECU can handle this but to what extent. During summer i saw an engine being tuned , even though it showd no signs of knocking we could here it. This is challenging and it was a MoTec unit.The knock was effectively controlled but the owner didnt want to loose power with the timing.
Once they hooked up the MoTec sensor module the knock frequency was established and the tuner went on his merry way and eliminated.
This module is expensive and only MoTec.
Well
Its common knowledge to tune it is far better to use a wide band O2 sensor , well how about the knock sensor.
Our 3SGE still had revisions past the MR2...
GEN 4 in the Caldina. Well behold they also changed the knock sensor and is used on all Toyotas today. It is a flat type ,wide band ,NON resonant unit.
As such because it came on the GEN 4 the appropriate stud , nut , connector can be got fom Toyota .
With this we can see if the Module is really required , extra saving .
And most likely why Toyota has the same Rods in the Red Top and Caldina Turbo.
They are better able to control knock in the GEN 4 because without a doubt the rods are far weaker than the GEN 3 turbo rods however it has even more power.
Better knock control , better ignition timing , more power and cleaner air

[MANDALAY]

[Ashmen]

So just to clarify. You can only use this flat-type knock sensor if your running an after market ECU on your Beams, or did the Beams receive this updated knock sensor already?

[MANDALAY]

How ive been told, with an aftermarket ECU that can process a wide band signal.
Nothing to do with Beams engine specific.
Its on the GEN 4 Caldina and apparently on all current Toyotas but because it was on the GEN 4 which we share the same block there is a specific stud available that makes mounting possible and moe importantly Toyota TESTED.

[MANDALAY]

[MANDALAY]

The other end ( fly wheel side ) you have to put the gasket and aluminium bit on. Make sure you press the oil seal in first . Then the oil pump then you can go about adding the sump.
I used Toyotas black silicon to seal the sump and the cap end on top of the head.
If you look close you will see a black line.
It is important thats its a small line close to the outer as you dont want any sikicon in the oil chanel

[MANDALAY]

Explain a bit , The crankshaft has been turned to check operation. Thats why you see only one white line.It takes a lot or revolutions to get it back to where we started.
Should have taken a photo , sorry
What we did was get piston one TDC and you will see the pins on the crankshaft will be at 12 oclock and the gear for the event start timing will be at zero advance.
Rotate the camshafts so that the mark on the pulleys are at 12 oclock
Then we put on the belt.
You have to align the top 2 white line with the marks on the camshaft pulleys. As you will see the other white line will line up o advance on the timing.
Then we pulled the grenade pin.



HAVE A GOOD LOOK AT THE PIC ABOVE
See the oil seal on the inlet cam. The VVTi gear slips into the oil seal unlike the exhaust cam which is flush. So to take off the head you have to take off the pulley. In a MR2 you CANT no room. So it is impossible to do any work on the head while the engine is in the car, no gasket no shims.
My advise make sure all is ok BEFORE putting the enhine in.
Seriously bar changing an accessory belt ,spark plugs,clutch or an alternator most work can only be done with the engine out.


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[MANDALAY]

OH BTW yes i have lower compression pistons as all you know. We checked if it was interfering and the answer in my set up at least is NO

[MANDALAY]

Alternator bracket from the Red Top Celica

[MANDALAY]

Anyone have a good pic of their celica red top clip. Really like to know how the OEM unit snaked the crank sensor wire to the top of the alternator, Also where the OEM bolted down the 2 grouped earth wires on the other side of the block.

[MANDALAY]

So i decided to ceramic coat all the exhaust parts,Exhaust manifold inside and out Bolts , studs , nuts , sheilds ( engine, fire wall,water by pass,clutch slave ,drive shaft ) .
guarenteed to 1700 degrees farenhite . Warranty for 3 years and after that will be recoated if necessary at 50 % of the price....

[MANDALAY]

Next to ceramic coat will be the B-Pipe. Had to dismantle it so it can be coated,
This pic is the B-Pipe dismantled. Also will be coated in and out.
The catalytic converter will also be coated but obviously on the out side

[MANDALAY]

Gave up on the idea of the Walbro pump. So the Walbro lovers please dont have a go at me.
Stuck with OEM and its the famous SUPRA TWIN TURBO fuel pump. Everything just fits in like std. Also got a new filter

[MANDALAY]

Well thats the block. Ill revert now th the super charger thread.......................