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Old 11-18-2008, 03:52 AM   #201 (permalink)
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While the bracket is being CNC'd . Start concentrating on the rest for the conversion.
All the bits for the alternator swap are ordered.
Including in the list are a few other items. They can be posted if anyone wants them.
Its a bit involved but remember its me and ordering OEM to the Celica specification.
Also on the list is the OEM BOV and all the attachments.
OEM catch can
OEM air duct of a turbo as ill be puting a SETRAB oil cooler and fan for the cooling of the ROTREX oil.
My Fuel injectors should come in any day. SARD 530 cc's fit on the OEM fuel rail. So im told we shall see as they agreed for return if they aren"t.
255 high pressure WALBRO in tank has also been ordered and also the A/W intercooler and the Front precooler radiator .

Man no cash left
.

Now can anyone help me with the correct spark plugs that are lower temp ?

Once everything is here it still be be a slow process to work out all piping.
Its going to be all aluminium.
Also the wiring is going to be done for the alternator and im also going to make a patch cable set between the OEM plugs and the ECU for the MoTec so as i dont cut and of the factory harness so as i can revert back to standard if need be.

Anything been left out ?
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Old 11-18-2008, 06:12 PM   #202 (permalink)
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MANDALAY! 200th post!! WOoooo!
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Old 11-19-2008, 02:47 AM   #203 (permalink)
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Now can anyone help me with the correct spark plugs that are lower temp ?
Sure, easy.

Got the stock part #'s from the MFG?

Andrew

Last edited by assassin10000; 11-19-2008 at 04:07 AM.
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Old 11-19-2008, 03:27 AM   #204 (permalink)
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The Toyota part number i used was 90919-01179 does that help ?
On the EPC its BKR6EP11
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Old 11-19-2008, 04:08 AM   #205 (permalink)
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Did some quick searching and using these 2 webpages I verified the correct stock P#'s from NGK & Denso:
4—Žԍ‘ŽYŽ—pƒXƒp[ƒNƒvƒ‰ƒOŒŸbNGKƒXƒp[ƒNƒvƒ‰ƒO ƒvƒ‰ƒOƒXƒ^ƒWƒI
DENSO SPARK PLUGS

Considering your going for 50hp more than stock, and 'mostly' going for an everyday capable car with more fun I'd say go one heat range colder to start with. IF the plugs seem to show signs of being too hot, go to 2 stages colder.

Platinum plugs
Stock - NGK: BKR6EP-11 / Denso: PK20R11
*1 stage colder - NGK: PFR7G11 / Denso: PK22PR11
*2 stage colder - NGK: N/A / Denso: N/A

*= part # is the closest I could match to the design/thread/length/tip style & gap, but may not be 100% exactly the same as stock except for the heat range.

Iridium plugs
Stock - NGK: BKR6EIX-11 / Denso: IK20
1 stage colder - NGK BKR7EIX-11 / Denso: IK22
2 stage colder - NGK BKR8EIX / Denso: IK24

Notes: on the 1 stage colder you may end up wanting to go with .8mm gap (ie p# BKR7EIX ) since it will be going into a force inducted motor to help prevent spark being blown out, if that's a problem. Also, the 2 stage colder BKR8EIX is only available (with the .8mm gap; not that having a slightly smaller gap will be much of a problem, may help as said above).


Suprisingly enough (IMO) the 3s-gte uses the same heat range sparkplugs as the 3s-ge including the beams motors, just different gaps... But then again considering the lower compression it may not have had high enough temps to cause problems.

Andrew

p.s. Blacktop & Red/Greytop use the same sparkplugs, so these are also applicable to the blacktop guys if looking for colder plugs...
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Old 11-19-2008, 04:18 AM   #206 (permalink)
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Thanks buddy !
One stupid question are the standard units adjustable in relation to gap ?
I dont recall the mechanic measuring them but them again l wasnt there the whole time of building.
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Old 11-19-2008, 05:10 AM   #207 (permalink)
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you can but u need to be careful adjusting iridium units. you'll have to lightly tap the top part down without damaging the spark electrode. i usually find that they are gapped properly so i've rarely needed to re gap.

for normal units eg non platinum or iridiums then you can re gap as usual.
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Old 11-19-2008, 06:30 AM   #208 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
Thanks buddy !
One stupid question are the standard units adjustable in relation to gap ?
I dont recall the mechanic measuring them but them again l wasnt there the whole time of building.
Yeah the standard 'platinum' are adjustable... or you can check p#'s and see if different pre-gapped ones are avail. If you knock the -11 off the end of the p# you get .8mm gap ones.

Gapping the iridiums is pretty much a no-no, most of the fine tips will break away if you try and get a feeler gauge in there. They're really sensitive to physical contact. If your really careful it can be done, but expect to break one or two...

Andrew
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:56 PM   #209 (permalink)
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WOOO HOOO
Injectors in Exactly the same dimensions as the OEM Red Top.
530 cc's
4 hole squirt
high impedance
Light Blue in color

Model 63516

Even come with a plug for harness addition but NOT reqired as the plug is the same as the OEM.
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Old 11-20-2008, 06:39 PM   #210 (permalink)
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Well ill be damn. I think i should look at my back yard first
Looks like ive been driving past NGK AUSTRALIA HQ every morning and night for the past 10 years.
Went past and this is what they said.

OEM BKR6EP-11
one colder
BKR7EVX-11 Platinum
BKR7EIX-11 Iridium

So Yes assassin10000 YOU ARE CORRECT Never doubted you buddy
The one thing she did say ( yes it was a she. Is it only me but tech girls make me horn )
the OEM is 4mm in length whereas the colder units are 3.5. She said no problem.
The other way could be a problem / might touch piston.
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Old 11-20-2008, 09:45 PM   #211 (permalink)
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WOOO HOOO My A/W Intercooler came in Slightly custom that it has 2 inch in and out.
Its a barrel 13 inches long and 5 inches in diameter. Called the 5 x 6 .
Its rated at 400 horses. Very nice welding and looks great, but alas its of the the powder coating to get done in Black. Remember OEM look NO BLING
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Old 11-21-2008, 03:39 AM   #212 (permalink)
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We demand pics!
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Old 11-22-2008, 09:00 PM   #213 (permalink)
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Pics pics pics......
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:58 AM   #214 (permalink)
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1 This a photo with the housing off as some work CNC is being done

2 A/W intercooler with the custom 2 inch inlet and outlet

3 ROTREX

4 Another angle I wonder if Garret supplies the turbines ?

5 ROTREX

6 ROTREX

7 INJECTORS 530 cc against the stock 340 cc

Last edited by MANDALAY; 11-23-2008 at 06:19 AM.
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Old 11-23-2008, 06:44 AM   #215 (permalink)
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My front mount pre-radiator should be coming in next 2 weeks . Once its in its time to install that.With the front bumper off and the car jacked up i want to put my WALBRO in
Question if l put the pump in given its higher flow will it cause a problem to run the car in its OEM set up ?
Bosch water pump is going to be placed inside the bumper like the water bottle for the windscreen is but on the other side
Also 2nd question while the car is up l want to run solid water pipes from the front to the back for the Intercooler set up with only short hoses connecting the Precooler and the A/W unit.
Does anyone see a problem me using Aluminium pipe ? Ill be making brackets so as to use the factory bolts that holds the AC pipe work.
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Old 11-23-2008, 11:06 PM   #216 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
My front mount pre-radiator should be coming in next 2 weeks . Once its in its time to install that.With the front bumper off and the car jacked up i want to put my WALBRO in
Question if l put the pump in given its higher flow will it cause a problem to run the car in its OEM set up ?
Bosch water pump is going to be placed inside the bumper like the water bottle for the windscreen is but on the other side
Also 2nd question while the car is up l want to run solid water pipes from the front to the back for the Intercooler set up with only short hoses connecting the Precooler and the A/W unit.
Does anyone see a problem me using Aluminium pipe ? Ill be making brackets so as to use the factory bolts that holds the AC pipe work.
No problems running the Walbro on the stock system. Your FPR will just allow the extra flow to bypass.

Aluminum will be fine, probably dissapate quite a bit of heat on the way up to the precooler.

Andrew
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:36 AM   #217 (permalink)
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Another question . Withe the Bosch water pump for my intercooler set up. Is it necessary to mount the pump verticle ? Can it be placed horizontaly ?
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Old 11-24-2008, 03:25 PM   #218 (permalink)
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Another question . Withe the Bosch water pump for my intercooler set up. Is it necessary to mount the pump verticle ? Can it be placed horizontaly ?
Depends on how it's designed, I wouldn't think it would matter but check with Bosch. If you have it, whats the part #? Is it a generic pump or a OE one meant for a specific vehicle?

Andrew
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Old 11-24-2008, 10:12 PM   #219 (permalink)
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The pump number is
0392022002
Its a auxiliary pump pretty much generic but is in a lot of european cars , Audis, VW's
Fount technical data but no referenc if it needs to be positioned vertically.
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Old 11-24-2008, 10:53 PM   #220 (permalink)
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The pump number is
0392022002
Its a auxiliary pump pretty much generic but is in a lot of european cars , Audis, VW's
Fount technical data but no referenc if it needs to be positioned vertically.
Lots of cool info here, from bosch:
Water-circulating pumps with DC motors

Unfortunately I can find no info direct from bosch on how it's supposed to be mounted.

Using doing some searching, and verifying with All-data at my work I found two vehicles that do use this pump (more actually, but I haven't felt like doing anymore research ).

One the 06 M/B E55 AMG they use this pump, it's mounted upright/vertical with the connector facing upwards.

On an 2003 Audi A6 Quattro they also use this pump, it's mounted horizontal above the alternator using a bracket/updated repair kit (has a TSB).

And the attatched pic is of it mounted in a M/B 05 CL55 AMG... again vertically.

So, at the moment I think you can mount it vertical for sure, and most likely horizontally as well; but maybe not at all with the motor/connector side facing downwards...

Andrew
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