SUPERCHARGER

[MANDALAY]

^ Thanks buddy , yeh thats the site i found. This pump goes in a lot of the German cars.
I was thinking horizontally just in case for space limitation. Will eventually find out when i take my bumper off.

[RST]

Funny enough I was just off the phone to Bosch about something at work. I can ask my contacts there -but by the looks of it I'd say that it can go any orientation you want. I'd have thought vertical height in relation to whatever filler cap was maybe more interesting. Might make life easier to bleed the system / prevent air locks if the pump is mounted at lowest part in comparison to the filler / tank.

[puretone]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

1 This a photo with the housing off as some work CNC is being done
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3003/...864392c9_o.jpg
2 A/W intercooler with the custom 2 inch inlet and outlet
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3023/...9ec33278_o.jpg
3 ROTREX
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3224/...6273bc23_o.jpg
4 Another angle I wonder if Garret supplies the turbines ?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3018/...dda9cfe3_o.jpg
5 ROTREX
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3201/...a1649dbe_o.jpg
6 ROTREX
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3269/...01200626_o.jpg
7 INJECTORS 530 cc against the stock 340 cc
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3276/...fac5f38b_o.jpg

I'm gonna channel some wierdo-perv here....

I'm gonna go jerk off at those pics real quick brb.

[puretone]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

My front mount pre-radiator should be coming in next 2 weeks . Once its in its time to install that.With the front bumper off and the car jacked up i want to put my WALBRO in
Question if l put the pump in given its higher flow will it cause a problem to run the car in its OEM set up ?
Bosch water pump is going to be placed inside the bumper like the water bottle for the windscreen is but on the other side
Also 2nd question while the car is up l want to run solid water pipes from the front to the back for the Intercooler set up with only short hoses connecting the Precooler and the A/W unit.
Does anyone see a problem me using Aluminium pipe ? Ill be making brackets so as to use the factory bolts that holds the AC pipe work.

No problems at all....sort of....I would mount an adjustable FPR with a gauge to monitor the situation for a while, *especially* while tuning, while figuring out what runs proper on your duty cycles. I will assume that you will not pass the emissions test with something from Aeromotive hanging out near your OEM fuel rail....

[puretone]

Originally Posted by assassin10000

Did some quick searching and using these 2 webpages I verified the correct stock P#'s from NGK & Denso:
4—ÖŽÔ�‘ŽYŽÔ—pƒXƒp�[ƒNƒvƒ‰ƒOŒŸ�õ�bNGKƒXƒp�[ƒNƒvƒ‰ƒO ƒvƒ‰ƒOƒXƒ^ƒWƒI
DENSO SPARK PLUGS

Considering your going for 50hp more than stock, and 'mostly' going for an everyday capable car with more fun I'd say go one heat range colder to start with. IF the plugs seem to show signs of being too hot, go to 2 stages colder.

Platinum plugs
Stock - NGK: BKR6EP-11 / Denso: PK20R11
*1 stage colder - NGK: PFR7G11 / Denso: PK22PR11
*2 stage colder - NGK: N/A / Denso: N/A

*= part # is the closest I could match to the design/thread/length/tip style & gap, but may not be 100% exactly the same as stock except for the heat range.

Iridium plugs
Stock - NGK: BKR6EIX-11 / Denso: IK20
1 stage colder - NGK BKR7EIX-11 / Denso: IK22
2 stage colder - NGK BKR8EIX / Denso: IK24

Notes: on the 1 stage colder you may end up wanting to go with .8mm gap (ie p# BKR7EIX ) since it will be going into a force inducted motor to help prevent spark being blown out, if that's a problem. Also, the 2 stage colder BKR8EIX is only available (with the .8mm gap; not that having a slightly smaller gap will be much of a problem, may help as said above).


Suprisingly enough (IMO) the 3s-gte uses the same heat range sparkplugs as the 3s-ge including the beams motors, just different gaps... But then again considering the lower compression it may not have had high enough temps to cause problems.

Andrew

p.s. Blacktop & Red/Greytop use the same sparkplugs, so these are also applicable to the blacktop guys if looking for colder plugs...

Hey, me and my buddy's have had HUGE issues with iridium spark plugs and turbo setups....for no flipping reason that we can figure...we literally could not get a handful of engines to get to a stable idle with Iri-plugs, not on any tune or gapping. Just to make sure we were not on any sort of crack we repeated on some other boosted engines and found the same behavior...Iri's from HKS, NGK & Denso would just make the engine run like its missing two cylinders....swapping the plugs out for some coppers MAGICALLY fixed all our tuning/idle issues...seriously asif we had been smoking crack & heroin combined....

[puretone]

ST202 SS3 Celica has a pulley under the Alternator, it's on a fully adjustable bracket that looks like it could have about 5-8 cm of adjustment.
Pulley itself if 80mm in diameter.

this just here to keep it in the same post / Reference, eventho I already PM'd MANDALAY for it...

[Roman]

Do you have any pics of how it all goes together?

All of my alternator bits are from an ST202, but I'm not quite clear on how it's all meant to go together.

In standard config does the belt go just to the alternator, or around PS pump too?

[MANDALAY]

Originally Posted by puretone

I'm gonna channel some wierdo-perv here....

I'm gonna go jerk off at those pics real quick brb.

Hey everyone wants pictures

[MANDALAY]

Originally Posted by Roman

Do you have any pics of how it all goes together?

All of my alternator bits are from an ST202, but I'm not quite clear on how it's all meant to go together.

In standard config does the belt go just to the alternator, or around PS pump too?

MR2 set up.
Belt 1 crank , alternator
Belt 2 crank , idler , air con compressor

Celica
Belt 1 crank , power steering
Belt 2 crank , idler , alternator , air con compressor

So set up as for the celica and put the ROTREX where the PS / ALTERNATOR was.
MR2 HAS 4 RIBS X 2 ON THE CRANK PULLEY.
CELICA has 4 ribs x 1 and 3 ribs for the other PS. Since l have a MR2 pulley at least the Rotrex will have 4 ribs

[puretone]

Originally Posted by Roman

Do you have any pics of how it all goes together?

All of my alternator bits are from an ST202, but I'm not quite clear on how it's all meant to go together.

In standard config does the belt go just to the alternator, or around PS pump too?

I'll make a pic of it in a bit when the rain stops screwing around...

[puretone]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

Hey everyone wants pictures

really? wait, pics of what now?

[RST]

Angelo, a thought / question I’ve got for you and the other guys:

Purely for my own interest as I do a fair bit of control systems at work, but there may be some merit in this project (worth thinking about maybe anyway) -or just discount it LoL).

When some of the MR2 guys have done the ST205 cc conversions on their cars they’ve run the cc pump constantly. Now I think they’ve been using second hand or refurbished pumps –but they’ve commented running the pump all the time reduces the lifespan of the pump (I’ve heard of some failing anyway).

I know on my GT4, the pump starts when you blip the throttle (say when the rpm goes > 1,000) and it stops running say 1min after the revs drop below that again. So when the cars warming up or sitting parked and running or sitting at junctions for long periods the pump stops because it’s not needed.

I know an SC is effectively boost on tap from the word go –but in my eyes anyway it would be a neat trick to use a spare channel on the Motec to switch a relay on/off based on RPM. Should be able to do that I guess? ….maybe I’ll be corrected and it’s not worth it though.

Also, again (I like neatness) I’d install a few sensors as you go along:

Oil temp
Oil pressure -this and the one above on an oil filter sandwich plate
IAT at the manifold (ECU'll need it anyway) -Bosch do a neat sensor

….and wire them into the Motec rather than straight to standalone gauges. I’m assuming that Motec will allow you to pull all those parameters out from the ECU on output channels as well. I’d run a single multi core cable from the engine bay (7 or 9 cores or summit like that) up to the dash and wire-in any gauges you want to the multicore rather than running separate lines etc. Just make sure you leave about 2.5m spare on the multicore at the dash -strip the outer sheath and you can coil up unused cores neatly out of the way for a "rainy day". Or even better IMO (and I’m not sure Motec have this) –is there an LCD display for the ECU available which can show all the engine stuff? Again –bit neater if there is and it would mean when you buy the senders –the money you save on gauges could go towards the display. I’ve never really found a tidy place to put gauges in my MR2 personally.

I’d recommend an oil temp display of some sort anyway –I know it’s warmer were allot of you guys live, but in the UK I’m surprised just how long the oil takes to warm-up to normal temperature sometimes.

One last question –TTS performance (UK) s/c’d a Mitsubishi Colt for one of the Japanese car magazines over here. On that car they said they have to keep an eye on the Rotrex’s oil level. Do Rotrex’s use oil then (I’m guessing so) –can they be plumbed into the engine oil circuit or is a different oil? Just curious!

(sorry for the long post guys –didn’t mean to be that long when I started, maybe some of this is covered already)


....Thanks for the write-up so far by the way. This is a really interesting read and I'm sure it will work out to be a sweet install when it's done!

[puretone]

Originally Posted by RST

Angelo, a thought / question I’ve got for you and the other guys:

Purely for my own interest as I do a fair bit of control systems at work, but there may be some merit in this project (worth thinking about maybe anyway) -or just discount it LoL).

When some of the MR2 guys have done the ST205 cc conversions on their cars they’ve run the cc pump constantly. Now I think they’ve been using second hand or refurbished pumps –but they’ve commented running the pump all the time reduces the lifespan of the pump (I’ve heard of some failing anyway).

I know on my GT4, the pump starts when you blip the throttle (say when the rpm goes > 1,000) and it stops running say 1min after the revs drop below that again. So when the cars warming up or sitting parked and running or sitting at junctions for long periods the pump stops because it’s not needed.

I know an SC is effectively boost on tap from the word go –but in my eyes anyway it would be a neat trick to use a spare channel on the Motec to switch a relay on/off based on RPM. Should be able to do that I guess? ….maybe I’ll be corrected and it’s not worth it though.

Also, again (I like neatness) I’d install a few sensors as you go along:

Oil temp
Oil pressure -this and the one above on an oil filter sandwich plate
IAT at the manifold (ECU'll need it anyway) -Bosch do a neat sensor

….and wire them into the Motec rather than straight to standalone gauges. I’m assuming that Motec will allow you to pull all those parameters out from the ECU on output channels as well. I’d run a single multi core cable from the engine bay (7 or 9 cores or summit like that) up to the dash and wire-in any gauges you want to the multicore rather than running separate lines etc. Just make sure you leave about 2.5m spare on the multicore at the dash -strip the outer sheath and you can coil up unused cores neatly out of the way for a "rainy day". Or even better IMO (and I’m not sure Motec have this) –is there an LCD display for the ECU available which can show all the engine stuff? Again –bit neater if there is and it would mean when you buy the senders –the money you save on gauges could go towards the display. I’ve never really found a tidy place to put gauges in my MR2 personally.

I’d recommend an oil temp display of some sort anyway –I know it’s warmer were allot of you guys live, but in the UK I’m surprised just how long the oil takes to warm-up to normal temperature sometimes.

One last question –TTS performance (UK) s/c’d a Mitsubishi Colt for one of the Japanese car magazines over here. On that car they said they have to keep an eye on the Rotrex’s oil level. Do Rotrex’s use oil then (I’m guessing so) –can they be plumbed into the engine oil circuit or is a different oil? Just curious!

(sorry for the long post guys –didn’t mean to be that long when I started, maybe some of this is covered already)


....Thanks for the write-up so far by the way. This is a really interesting read and I'm sure it will work out to be a sweet install when it's done!

ON/OFF switching on the fuel pump was done purely for Emissions, when in boost it would push a bit more current to the pump, from I *think* 9volts up to full 12 to 13 volts....initial starting however is another deal when the pump switches *ON* to *prime* the fuel rail. It should stay on even during idle no matter what, what you hear is probably the emissions voltage control.


Walbro's DO NOT FAIL, not that I know of, never had any fail, nor anyone I know....they should last a good part of forever....think of Direct Injection Diesels those f*ckers run on 1000 psi fuel pumps, they have to be constant on....

[RST]

Puretone, when I write "cc" I'm referring to the charge cooler water circulation pump, not the fuel pump.

Sorry for any confusion.

[puretone]

Originally Posted by RST

Puretone, when I write "cc" I'm referring to the charge cooler water circulation pump, not the fuel pump.

Sorry for any confusion.

oh snapper cats, forgot GT4's had one of those on the water to air cooler doh.....wouldn't be too crazy an idea to fab up something to use a walbro pump on one of those....ideas ideas

[RST]

oh snapper cats, forgot GT4's had one of those on the water to air cooler doh.....wouldn't be too crazy an idea to fab up something to use a walbro pump on one of those....ideas ideas

....er you had me going for a minute there (easily done). What goes through my mind and what makes it through my 2 fingers on the keyboard are frequently 2 different things though

[puretone]

Originally Posted by RST

....er you had me going for a minute there (easily done). What goes through my mind and what makes it through my 2 fingers on the keyboard are frequently 2 different things though

the problem is always between the keyboard and the chair....

[RST]

sometimes the bit in contact with the chair is wired directly to the bit between the 2 ears as you say. LoL.

I need a bigger keyboard, my thumbs hit more than one key at once!


...anyway back on-topic!

[MANDALAY]

Originally Posted by RST

Angelo, a thought / question I’ve got for you and the other guys:

Purely for my own interest as I do a fair bit of control systems at work, but there may be some merit in this project (worth thinking about maybe anyway) -or just discount it LoL).

When some of the MR2 guys have done the ST205 cc conversions on their cars they’ve run the cc pump constantly. Now I think they’ve been using second hand or refurbished pumps –but they’ve commented running the pump all the time reduces the lifespan of the pump (I’ve heard of some failing anyway).

I know on my GT4, the pump starts when you blip the throttle (say when the rpm goes > 1,000) and it stops running say 1min after the revs drop below that again. So when the cars warming up or sitting parked and running or sitting at junctions for long periods the pump stops because it’s not needed.

I know an SC is effectively boost on tap from the word go –but in my eyes anyway it would be a neat trick to use a spare channel on the Motec to switch a relay on/off based on RPM. Should be able to do that I guess? ….maybe I’ll be corrected and it’s not worth it though.

Also, again (I like neatness) I’d install a few sensors as you go along:

Oil temp
Oil pressure -this and the one above on an oil filter sandwich plate
IAT at the manifold (ECU'll need it anyway) -Bosch do a neat sensor

….and wire them into the Motec rather than straight to standalone gauges. I’m assuming that Motec will allow you to pull all those parameters out from the ECU on output channels as well. I’d run a single multi core cable from the engine bay (7 or 9 cores or summit like that) up to the dash and wire-in any gauges you want to the multicore rather than running separate lines etc. Just make sure you leave about 2.5m spare on the multicore at the dash -strip the outer sheath and you can coil up unused cores neatly out of the way for a "rainy day". Or even better IMO (and I’m not sure Motec have this) –is there an LCD display for the ECU available which can show all the engine stuff? Again –bit neater if there is and it would mean when you buy the senders –the money you save on gauges could go towards the display. I’ve never really found a tidy place to put gauges in my MR2 personally.

I’d recommend an oil temp display of some sort anyway –I know it’s warmer were allot of you guys live, but in the UK I’m surprised just how long the oil takes to warm-up to normal temperature sometimes.

One last question –TTS performance (UK) s/c’d a Mitsubishi Colt for one of the Japanese car magazines over here. On that car they said they have to keep an eye on the Rotrex’s oil level. Do Rotrex’s use oil then (I’m guessing so) –can they be plumbed into the engine oil circuit or is a different oil? Just curious!

(sorry for the long post guys –didn’t mean to be that long when I started, maybe some of this is covered already)


....Thanks for the write-up so far by the way. This is a really interesting read and I'm sure it will work out to be a sweet install when it's done!

MoTec has control oarameter and accessories to the enth degree So a lot of sensors will be put in for immidiate use and also future.
The other good thing about the ROTREX is that it is self contained. It has its own oil system with resevour. Its not piped to the engine at all. Easy to check oil level. Im over killing it with a fan forced Setrab oil cooler and fitting it to the side air intake.
The Rotrex run colder than any turbo as its not connected to the exhaust and also in my set up its on the intake side.

[MANDALAY]

Originally Posted by RST

Puretone, when I write "cc" I'm referring to the charge cooler water circulation pump, not the fuel pump.

Sorry for any confusion.

Motec will control the water pump Just checked and l can have it set up anyway i want
Thanks for the heads up ! Will ask that of my tuner