SUPERCHARGER

[MANDALAY]

Originally Posted by puretone

OH BOOHOO! LOL!

The whole fun of a custom build is to make brackets and such so as to make it look all custom fitted and stuff....
Yet another great time to make a custom casting for a bracket....hint hint hint hint....

Derrrrrrrrr
Yes im doing it.
In actual fact l should have done it in the first place as l have my old air con radiator. Oh well learn. It pretty easy

[RST]

Yea you can strip the undertrays off relatively easy. Put it this way -easier to take centre trays out than find a way to secure hoses in them without punching them for tie wraps etc etc. Then gripe about reduceds ground clearance with the set-up.

....anyhow -I just want to chip in as much as I can -useless as allot of the info is, I know guys going down the 3SGTE SW20 / ST205 cc route, but learn from ttheir mistakes as far as I'm concerned!

Re the swaging -agreed, it's tricky. You have to have decent wt before you expand, the more you want to expand them more heat is involved and the bigger wt you need in the first place and you can't expand forever. If it doesn't crack when it's expanded then IMO it shouldn't crack in-service at our pressures -so long as there's no major loads transferred to it. But it's anyone's game. Ali's **** in fatigue loading.

...Not to get into a debate, I mean this is the way stuff should be done. With a mere modicum of thought -no money wasted on bling and getting stuff done properly -which actually looks better in the first place IMO. I dunno whyI'm asking TBH -why would Angelo do it that way in the first place now I think about it.

[MANDALAY]

Originally Posted by RST

...another dumb-ass question for you:

Which sensor kicks in at 62oC please? My engine bay temp sensor comes in half that and turns on the side fan. Gonna set my Spal fans for less than that also hopefully based on IAT rather than bay temps. I think I've missed something somewhere.
I saw on the manual to check the sensor immerse in water and heat to 70 degrees celcius and with a multimeter should have closed circuit once 62 is reached
...so the rotrex is fine on it's own separate cooling circuit -OK. I forgot it's basically a rotary blower (a turbo) -but without the exhaust impellor but essentially a pulley and gearbox.
The ROTREX uses traction oil to operate and also provide any cooling required. Therefor it is advisable to use a cooler.
Im tacking it one step further by using a fan forced oil cooler and sitting in the air intack. It will also have a temp sensor in line and the MoTec can turn on the fan
Moulds for the casting look sweet! Thanks Just one question -it's larger at one end. Could that not be done by flaring an ali pipe at one end -can get that done on ali pipe relatively easy over here in comparison? Man, if you can get castings made cheap then go for it -something like that through my engineering sources would be mega bucks. If they're doing it in lost wax castings off that just make sure they can repeat it please!!! Sand cast
The reason for the larger end is thats the inlet to the Rotrex which is 3 inches.
Once its finished and CNC'd you will see why. It will house the RESTRICTOR.
The way im doing it , it will be easy to take the restrictor out and rebore if necessary to increase my flow and PSI.
Im going in very safe and starting with only a 30 mm opening. See what PSI i get then adjust accordingly.


...trust me, your MDF plug's alone look a better job than one of the pre-cooler nay whole charge cooler installs I saw by a "pro MR2 tuner" garage in the Uk earlier this year!!!!

Just some more DIY 205 charge cooler install "guff" for you. But some of the MR2 guys comment they have to route their charge cooler pipes under e.g. outside the plastic undershields of the car to the pre-cooler (where it's pretty exposed IMO). I never understood why -but I think they're using cheap nylon cross-braided plastic pipe, or garden hose pipe! Probably useless comment -but I never saw why thin walled alloy tubing wouldn't fit inside the centre tunnel -there's just enough room. Worth investing in a 20mm or so pipe bender to do a good job, rather than rely on soft hoses for me.

Already checked that out. Going inside the plastic sheilds and using solid piping . Pipe bender already bought
Thanks for your suggestions mate

[RST]

Man WTF is a restrictor!!!!!!!!!!!

[MANDALAY]

Ok the Rotrex im using is big C30-94. Its rated at 200 - 400 horses.
The Rotrex C30-94 charger has a maximum impellor speed of 100,000 RPM. My car is geared so the charger is spinning at this speed at the redline, so the charger is being used to its full potential. This gives about 20 PSI of boost on redline, so plenty of top end power. Lower down the rev range, say at 3000 RPM, the charger is giving about 3 PSI, so its just starting to give useable boost. And remember, this is with the charger geared so its spinning as fast as possible.

Now the problem - im using a standard engine, and only want 7-8 PSI of peak boost (ie, at redline), which will give approx 230 - 250 BHP. To get this, you need a much bigger pulley in order to rotate the supercharger more slowly. The problem with this is, the low and mid-range performance will really suffer - and it wont be giving usable boost until 5-6000 RPM - not ideal.

The solution. Wouldn't it be good if you could have the low and midrange punch of a high boost conversion, but with a sensible peak boost for a standard engine? Well now you can. My maintaining the same pulley size, but restricting the inlet, we achieve this. At low speeds, the inlet restrictor ring does not hamper the air flow, as there is simply not enough air flow for it to become restrictive. As air velocity increases past the restrictor ring, it becomes restrictive and limits the volume of air that can flow past it.

So basically what you achieve is the dream powergraph... Power and torque will progressively increase, until about 5-6000 RPM, then it will level out (it will still rise very slowly). The best thing is, the power will NEVER tail off.

This gives MUCH more area 'under the graph' than limiting boost by using a bigger pulley. And, if you speak to anyone who knows what they're talking about, its the are under the graph the determines how quick a car is.

For those of you ever contiplating doing high boost, ( or change internals ) the restrictor ring can be left out .

[RST]

My maintaining the same pulley size, but restricting the inlet, we achieve this. At low speeds, the inlet restrictor ring does not hamper the air flow, as there is simply not enough air flow for it to become restrictive. As air velocity increases past the restrictor ring, it becomes restrictive and limits the volume of air that can flow past it.

....hmm, I wasn't good in my fluid dynamics exams but reasonable in fuid dynamics since oddly (ecept for cars -LoL). Is what you're saying that at lower air speeds the restriction isn't an issue (hence more power at lower air speeds). But at higher intake velocities -you can reduce the power output from the SC to bring it back into the range you're looking for because it's effectivelly a smaller intake (higher losses) hence it's drawing lower pressure behind the restriction because of the reducer?

Sorry for the dumb ass questions, bear with me please!

[MANDALAY]

^ Yes in a nutshell ...................
But the maths is so complicated and to work out the right number taking into account everything , pipes , bends etc iit will take for ever. So im starting small 30 mm. Then if its too low ( PSI ) ill open up the hole. Its been machined and the pipe holding it ( above picture ) has been sand cast in aluminium and its being also machined. Should have a couple of pictures up in a couple of days.

[MANDALAY]

Going to post a few pictures in the next few days . Coming along nicely
Parts for alternator swap are here THANKS DAVE ! and mr220v !
Just have a question on the MR2 version the bracket that holds the engine hook to the block is replaced with a bracket that holds the alternator on the Celica version. Now both parts have a hollow piece
which looks like that there is a gasket. Looking at the block it looks hollow also so that the parts block it.
Question is there a gasket there. EPC shows one i think but its only available on the whole gasket overhaul kit...............
Can i reuse the one i have if there is one ?
Can i just unbolt it and quickly swap without coolant pissing out ? Its pretty high on the block. Should i pinch the water hoses to minimise the loss ?

[MANDALAY]

Also its a good time that l mention another difference b/w a celica engine and a MR2 one.
The MR2's in actual all the series have an engine mount that is on the belt cover side that is like a big banana. Well depending on which engine you have the bracket is slightly different. The Celica doesnt have one. So to do the swap if using a celica engine you have to get one. The Beams MR2 one is ok but the last hole that bolts to the above bracket ( 268 ) wont have anywhere to bolt down. Its not important as the celica has its engine hook solely supported by the alternator bracket. So either grind it off if you like, leave it as it is , or modify the alternator bracket slightly so that a bolt can be used for that finish look. BTW im doing the last option You should know me by now .
The guys that have done a celica swap would already know this.

[MANDALAY]

Since Roman asked about the tensioner on the celica mount l realised the the belt configuration is different. Well l have to get 2 belts 4 PK.
QUESTION
im going to go crazy looking for Toyota ones so are GATES any good ?

[RST]

so are GATES any good ?

...should be fine with Gates belts IMO -I'm pretty sure it was a Gates cam belt kit I put on my GT4 this year.

[MANDALAY]

Does anyone know whether the OEM turbo fuel regulator is the same as the Beams. They have different part numbers

[puretone]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

Does anyone know whether the OEM turbo fuel regulator is the same as the Beams. They have different part numbers

they are the same. 3SGTE FPR screws into the side of the fuel rail, just like the BEAMS one does. I *DO* think however they are probably different pressures, where the BEAMS one is possibly 38psi or more, the 3SGTE one most likely has a different rate, hence the different part number. The Toyota parts staff seems to think this to be the case too.
Other than that they are physically the same size, thread, nipples are the same....i swapped mine out for a M10 aeroquip hose barb....that runs to my aftermarket FPR

[MANDALAY]

With my box of goodies i actually bought the Turbo regulator thinking it might have a different rate given the last gen had 530 cc injectors.
So l may as well use it ?

[MANDALAY]

1
You can see the bracket for the Rotrex. Its not the finished unit. I first made the bracket using timber and the original bracket. I then had 2 cast in aluminium , i kept one to do all the fitting checking . Once ok'ed the other has gone to the machine shop to be CNC'ed out of billet block. Its one big block ! 1 foot square
2
3
Walbro pump
4
Bosch water pump for A/W intercooler
5
Showing in and out to the Rotrex
6
Restrictor screwed into the inlet pipe which the slides into the Rotrex inlet. Then it will have the silicon coupling over it
7
8
Restrictor. Once final power is determined this part can be bored out larger if more power is required
9
Pre radiator infront of my old air conditioner condensor
10

[Breed-X]

very nice coming together!

[Lion_HUN]

Nice pictures

[MANDALAY]

thanks

[RST]

MANDALAY this is looking superb. The neatest install of almost any type I've seen anyway. The CC core looks much shorter than I thought it would.

Are you remembering to cast the 'odd threaded boss in your custom pipes for temp sensors etc?

Awesome build -keep the updates flowing!

[MANDALAY]

Originally Posted by RST

MANDALAY this is looking superb. The neatest install of almost any type I've seen anyway. The CC core looks much shorter than I thought it would.

Are you remembering to cast the 'odd threaded boss in your custom pipes for temp sensors etc?

Awesome build -keep the updates flowing!

Yes taking care of the of all the mounting flanges for sensors etc. If you look at the 2 blue pipes they are the internals which the cast will then be made. At the base of the first one you can see the turn off for the BOV.

BTW if the core is any bigger the bumper has to be cut. Rogue l guess spent the time to work that one out, but the bumper obviously has to come off for the install.
Once its off im going to see if l can add the pump behind it. Cant remember clearances.