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Old 03-11-2009, 09:28 PM   #21 (permalink)
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would have been cheaper to get a2nd hand motor ange from memory about 4000 aussie for a short block with rods and pistons you wont use ,waste of money again
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:53 AM   #22 (permalink)
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YEH Glenn extra $ but the block and also the crankshaft only cost me $2100 including tax Great price !
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:20 AM   #23 (permalink)
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hoarding BEAMS? Pack-rat....

and no I don't say that because I am jealous and I don't have more than one BEAMS engine or parts, really I don't, not jealous at all, not green with jealousy at all!
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:27 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Do want some spares Stop you from feeling lonely

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Old 03-12-2009, 01:36 AM   #25 (permalink)
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i have 8 motors sitting here .4 fwd which are 2 red tops and 2 grey tops and 4 altezza motors
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:43 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Celica RA45 View Post
i have 8 motors sitting here .4 fwd which are 2 red tops and 2 grey tops and 4 altezza motors

I knight you by the power vested in me as the King Pack-Rat of /MK2-MR2-SW20/BEAMS/
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:56 AM   #27 (permalink)
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1 is wfx from perth as im doing this 1 up for him i have another that is being done for a clubman my spare is having the head done up and also my other spare is being reflowed as i type this the other 4 are 1 in may car 1 stock grey top and 2 std altezza motors 1 with 1,800 kays from a half cut so i have plenty of spares if any 1 needs parts rods pistons fwd water out lets pans etc
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Old 03-12-2009, 09:59 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Yeh you should post all the MR2 installation parts you have like water outlets that you have for sale to help tHe celica RED TOPS installs in MR2'S
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Old 03-15-2009, 07:33 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Hey guys,

Can someone from the States give me a rough idea on the price of Carrillo rods H type with the CARR bolts to your door in USD .
THANKS GUYS
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Old 03-16-2009, 01:54 AM   #30 (permalink)
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The SC set up is different to a turbo set up. The torque is linear as is the boost. Because the SC derives its power from the pulley and a function to its rotation therefore maximum PSI is only achieved at max revs. This unit will produce 13 - 14 PSI at 7,200 at maximum rotor speed. So for the better most time its only going to be around 10 PSI. The SC puts less torque strain on the engine and the pistons. After speaking and seeing several engine builders most have come to the conclusion to only lower the CR from 11:1

to 9.5 - 10.0 :1 If anything to add a bit of safety.
This SC set up will never go any higher unless i change the unit as i have it set at max revs already with 7200 rpm. so max will be 13 -14 psi .

Comments ?
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Old 03-17-2009, 01:41 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Couldn't you have asked that *before* I left the country?
E-mail don't work from their website?


Hoarding BEAMS? Got more RedTop & BlackTop parts lying around than you know what to do with?
CALL PURETONE'S 12-Step BEAMS-Detox Program NOW!
For 3 EASY Payments of $19.99, you will be CLEAN & BEAMS-Sober in no time at all!!
So what are you waiting for?! Call my number NOW!
CALL 1.800.UN-BEAMS NOW!!!
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Old 03-17-2009, 01:46 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post

to 9.5 - 10.0 :1 If anything to add a bit of safety.
This SC set up will never go any higher unless i change the unit as i have it set at max revs already with 7200 rpm. so max will be 13 -14 psi .

Comments ?
Boosted. Don't be crazy, don't go high-comp and find out later your tuning was not so spot-on after all. Mess up and break one ring-land and you will not know about it forever....until it goes catastrophic. 10.0:1 is pretty close, 9.5:1 is safe. Trust me, once you boost it you get the Boost-Happy bug. I do *not* think with your setup you would notice the torque-loss/spool-up lag too much for you to stick to higher-comp pistons.
If you go higher compression, then MAKE FOR DAMN SURE you tune it perfect!!!
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Old 03-17-2009, 05:46 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Ok if i go with 9.5 i have one more question.
Will the beams run , issues , ? if i run the engine like that with all stock gear Fuel injectors etc before i connect the SC and MoTec to run in the engine ?
Obviously the power will be less but will the factory ECU recalculate , readjust for the lower compression
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:55 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
Ok if i go with 9.5 i have one more question.
Will the beams run , issues , ? if i run the engine like that with all stock gear Fuel injectors etc before i connect the SC and MoTec to run in the engine ?
Obviously the power will be less but will the factory ECU recalculate , readjust for the lower compression
Uh, what? Engine/ECU does not know what to do with compression, it won't say blah for your compression change, or change injection for that matter. If anything it should not see any difference in air-fuel ratio either, if the same amount of fuel goes in, gets lit the same way, burns the same way.....just that it won't bang as violently because of less pressure. You will possibly loose some little smidgen of torque at lowest RPM's.
Factory ECU does not know jack about how much horsepower it puts out, or torque for that matter....(leads me to ask, does any ECU have this capability?).....I don't think the ECU will be doing any re-/adjustment regardless....I think it only corrects if you messed with the timing on the older distributor models. Now I guess if there is a dead injector and/or coil-on-plug it could possibly go in limp-mode, not sure tho.
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:14 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
Ok if i go with 9.5 i have one more question.
Will the beams run , issues , ? if i run the engine like that with all stock gear Fuel injectors etc before i connect the SC and MoTec to run in the engine ?
Obviously the power will be less but will the factory ECU recalculate , readjust for the lower compression
Running lower compression won't cause any issues with the stock ECU.

You'll just have a slightly less power.

Andrew
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Old 03-24-2009, 03:34 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Ok like to share some info with you guys,
Looking at RODS. With the help of my fellow Aussie member DA HORSE which has a spare set of BEAMS rods one can see drilled holes on both ends of the rod, also a channel on the machined side of the big end.
All the sftermarket forge rods dont have this, There is a reason for YAMAHA to have put them in . Its only logical. Since im not willing to comptimise the design principle i rang Carrillo and they said they would replicate it

I really wounder if anyone really has noticed this and took it into consideration.

BTW CARRILLO has been bought out by CP PISTONS 3 months ago
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Old 03-25-2009, 12:40 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
Ok like to share some info with you guys,
Looking at RODS. With the help of my fellow Aussie member DA HORSE which has a spare set of BEAMS rods one can see drilled holes on both ends of the rod, also a channel on the machined side of the big end.
All the sftermarket forge rods dont have this, There is a reason for YAMAHA to have put them in . Its only logical. Since im not willing to comptimise the design principle i rang Carrillo and they said they would replicate it

I really wounder if anyone really has noticed this and took it into consideration.

BTW CARRILLO has been bought out by CP PISTONS 3 months ago
Isn't CP owned by Pankl from Austria? They are a huge company last I checked, Carillo was always this small family run place IIRC. CP are huge in anything related to the rotating parts in high performance engines.
Yamaha probably feels it necessary to lube up a little extra at the wrist & bottom end pins, not sure if it is only the BEAMS rods though, pretty sure almost all rods get something similar. Lack of this lube channel might be because it is deemed unnecessary....Yamaha probably included it for safety & longevity.
Forged are probably harder, stretch less & expand/contract less. Therefor they do not have this issue that the oil can't pass through everywhere anymore because of heat-expansion, or whatever else. Probably guarantees oil lubrication up to a certain super high temp....cookie-cutter cast & machined rods can not guarantee this sort of operation at any temp.

New word by MANDALAY: comptimise, I think its l33t-sp33k
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Old 03-25-2009, 01:26 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Hey ,always spelling mistakes . Not that i cant spell just that im getting old and need glasses.

^ I hear you ,but if they are going to be custom items may as well include them.
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:22 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I dont my BEAMS running still but depending on how much I like it, Ill probably a few spares they are too cheap not to hoard a few bare longblocks.

I want a MR2 BEAMS motor though that would be nice.
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Old 03-26-2009, 08:17 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Eeeeeexactly! Knifing only makes any sense on big NA engines with ITB's and such. I would see things getting weak & spun out of whack if you knifed a turbo crank. I'm sure there's tuner nuts out there that would swear by knifing a turbo crank.....For longevity I would just stick with OEM crank, possibly get it balanced if it isn't already by Toyota.

I know the alloy block sleeving.....Are our sleeves even replaceable? Or do we just get a new cylinder block?
Knifing makes no sense at all...waste of time and effort unless you have done every single upgrade possible and are stuck for something to do...just engine dressing..even then going on a diet would produce more gains
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