beams redtop turbo

[puretone]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

23814-88570 correct.
Puretone will chim in on regulators. Im using OEM but the Gen 4 one that uses the 530 cc injectors ( caldina ).
Pump im goimg Walbro 255 HF

*puretone chimes in*

Go Walbro 255lph, it's a winner no matter what you do....just if you go much higher boost than say 350-400hp or so get a secondary inline pump with swirl tank. "Why Walbro?" you say? Well they are pretty damned great and have a very very good track record. I'm sure Bosch 044 is great too but I seem to always lean to the Walbro units....and they are plentiful on eBay...
Get some sort of an adjustable FPR with a gauge on it (vewwy vewwy impowtant when hunting wabbits), Aeromotive, though expensive, are great units. As there is not one FPR I know about that will fit onto our fuel rails (unless you make your own rail....plse do and make me one while you are at it...) so it will be an external one mounted to the firewall or so. This means you will be taking off the OEM unit and putting a threaded nipple on there instead and running a fuel line/hard line to the FPR. I had a Megan FPR unit with gauge, worked perfect all the time, then got a nice office on an Aeromotive FPR....my lame ass spent the extra $ to have some bling under the hood.....SARD would be nice too...heck there are hundreds to choose from. Why the gauge? Great way to trouble shoot....running lean all of a sudden? Don't know if it's the fuel pump? Check the gauge!!
What I did:

I found out the fuel rail thread is M12 on 1.25 pitch thread. I just fitted my connector, I went from M12 to AN -3 adapter then from there I go full AN fittings to the FPR

The from there you will have to have your tuner figure things out about the actual fuel pressure, 44 psi is a good place to start, of course depending on your fuel injector cc-size etc.

This is all relevant if you are not going the super-anal-super-stealth-look MANDALAY goes for with his slick as hell OEM look. An external FPR with gauge will be red flags for all anti-mod government agents.

[oldsoul45]

many thanks guys....you've been a real help....more updates soon

thought I'd better uprate the shocks....TRD's adjustables

being fitted shortly

[puretone]

lucky bastard!

[jakedasnake]

Wow, haven't seen those in a while! keep up the good work!

[oldsoul45]

Originally Posted by puretone

lucky bastard!

lol......yes I am

[oldsoul45]

so took the head cover off today to find that the cams have to come out to get at the head bolts...so now my bum is twitching....what is the method of removing and replacing the cams and vvti wheel...could really do with a manual but i know they are the holygrail...anyone help with this...i'm fine with non vvti head removal and timing.need part number for the snap rings and..also thinking ugraded shells ..so part numbers for them would be great..anyone ??????

[MANDALAY]

snap rings and..also thinking ugraded shells ???????

[oldsoul45]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

snap rings and..also thinking ugraded shells ???????

snap rings for the piston pins and shells are bearings for the crank and rods
looked at toyodiy and it lists mark 1 to 5 for the bearings......anyone????

[MANDALAY]

Ok been through all this.
Firstly didnt yyour pistons come with wrist pins and clips ?
Secondly if you are going to Turbo strongly suggest to upgrade your rods.
Take your pick there up to you.
Special note the the 3rd gen 3 N/A has the same rods as the Turbo GEN 3.
Also which i still dont understand the last Caldina model 97 GEN 4 has the same rods as the RED TOP ?????????
So are they strong enough ? Toyota seems to think so. But i guess better to be safe..............
Now the crankshaft bearings come in 2 size sets. New crank or .02 over if you machine your crank. You need to make a descision are you going to machine it
Same goes with the piston bearings.
Also your pistons are over size so you are going to have to bore out your block. May i suggest you torque plate bore and hone to your piston size. Any proffesional place will know what to bore out, but the only snag i see is that they will not know exactely how much the pistons will expand when hot. TOO LITTLE and you can seize the engine TOO MUCH and the pistons will make a lot of noise due to slap.
Thats a hard one , i suggest you contact the manufacture of the pistons for the correct size.
Lastely when they torque plate it , make sure its with studs as ill bet you that when you take your cylinder head off you will see deformation of the cylinder where the head bolts are
Remember im anal , this is what ive gone through with a NEW BLOCK, though i didnt touch the crankshaft as i bought a new one. To lighten it i think it is a waste as your turbo charging the engine. It has its merits with high compression N/A applications.
You need a plan of attack and take it a step at a time.

[MANDALAY]

Oh BTW find a Gen 3 manual you can use that for most of the figures you need, BUT before you take your head off there is a sequence of which bolts are taken off.
Also get some polystyrene foam so that as you take your caps and bolts of the crankshafts you can push them into it and keep them all in the same order. YOU DO NOT want to mix them up as they will be seated .
Since i have the manual just ask me anything your stumped on should get back to you asap, and also for new parts.
LET THE FUN BEGIN

One important note :
This is why you see engine failures after rebuilds all this needs to be taken into consideration. Slaping parts together just doesnt cut it, a proper engine builder will still torque down the caps and measure to make sure and if they are the wrong size you will have to buy new bearings again.
Toyota and other companies get the OEM right because they measure and have all the different sizes at their disposal. THEN once assembled stamp the block the size.
See if all the numers are the same on the top of the block.
Ive bought 2 now. The first one which came as a short block were all 1 aand the second which was only the block were all marked 2. Thats why there are soooooooo many bearing sizes in TOYODIY

[oldsoul45]

wow lot to take in there...i have pins but no clips...really need to know the method of taking out the cams so as to remove the head bolts...that's the info in your manual i need...a how to take your beams head off guide would be handy.....worry that the vvti will spring out in 20 bits and need to be put back like a rubix cube

[MANDALAY]

Lets get geometry correct first./
Looking over the top of the head to the left should be the cam pulley, with the inlet to the north and exhaust to the south.
N to the left is the VVTi mechanism , its held there by one bolt , undo and pull the unit out.
To the L there is a aluminium section that is over the cams that is held by 4 bolts

THIS IS WHERE THE STYRENE IS USEFULL TO KEEP EVERYTHING IN THE RIGHT PLACE.
TAKING APART IS 10 MINUTES PUTTING BACK TOGETHER IS DAYS IF YOU LOOSE THE PARTS.

It will be slightly hard to remove as there is a gasket sealant there. Pry it SLOWLY.
If you are going to change seals which i recommend ,before you take that off take the pulleys off. The VVTi pulley has a cover in the center pull that off. While holding the cam undo the bolt.

So looking over head you see 4 horizontal rows of bolts with each row 5 bolts
Going from N left to right
Lets number them 1 - 5, 6 - 10, 11 - 15, 16 - 20.
Now take them off in this order
20,15,5,10,18,13,3,8,16,11,1,6,17,12,2,7,19,14,4,9 .

Thats it.
Remember there is another sequence when putting back together.

Let us know how you go.

[MANDALAY]

For future reference the VVTi mechanism is on cylinder NO 1.
Will come handy for wiring and then taking the head bolts off.

[MANDALAY]

Originally Posted by oldsoul45

wow lot to take in there...i have pins but no clips...really need to know the method of taking out the cams so as to remove the head bolts...that's the info in your manual i need...a how to take your beams head off guide would be handy.....worry that the vvti will spring out in 20 bits and need to be put back like a rubix cube

No the VVTi mechanism will not fall apart.Its a long tube with cut outs for the oil distribution.
Pin clips are
90521-25004 BUT that is for the OEM
Dont know if they will be any good for you as piston guy should supply the rings, wrist pin and clips all together.
Even Toyota dont have a part number for the pins. You have to buy the whole piston.

NOTE : SAME GOES WITH THE CAPS. Toyota DOES NOT SELL any of them separatly. Damage a crankshaft cap you need to buy a whole head.
If they are worn , need to buy a new head the dont have bearings that you can machine the cam.
Damage the crankshaft caps , buy a new block but at least you can buy bigger bearings.

[oldsoul45]

looking at the part numbers for the headgasket there seems to be two

11115-88460
11115-88560


anyone know which is the right one.......thanks

[MANDALAY]

11115-88560

[MANDALAY]

How did you go ? Got the head off ?

[MANDALAY]

Curious to see a picture of the top of your cylinders with the head off

[oldsoul45]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

Curious to see a picture of the top of your cylinders with the head off

Hi not got the head off yet...just getting all the parts together...head covers gone for a clean and polish..hoping to get stuck in in the next few weeks....

[puretone]

Originally Posted by MANDALAY

11115-88560

hey MANDALAY what's the deal with the 11115-88460 part(s), is see it often that there is an 'extra' part listed and with the actual & always a digit off.... like the 560-460 deal on the head gasket...what's the deal with that? Updated part or totally different one altogether?