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Old 09-03-2009, 04:13 PM   #101 (permalink)
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460 earlier 3SGE's 480 3SGTE TURBO
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:23 PM   #102 (permalink)
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so the redtop parts are 560....yes??
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Old 09-04-2009, 06:44 PM   #103 (permalink)
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So finally you opted for 550's for your injectors, which one you chose?

I need to order injectors in a near future but I need more then 550's so I need to know what engine injectors to look at

thx

Gabriel
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Old 09-04-2009, 07:08 PM   #104 (permalink)
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so the redtop parts are 560....yes??
The better part of them but not all and upgrades are 561
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Old 09-04-2009, 07:09 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mr2mkii View Post
So finally you opted for 550's for your injectors, which one you chose?

I need to order injectors in a near future but I need more then 550's so I need to know what engine injectors to look at

thx

Gabriel
Sard or Caldina turbo ones are the same 550cc dont know bigger ones
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Old 09-04-2009, 07:39 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Sard or Caldina turbo ones are the same 550cc dont know bigger ones
Sard for which engine?
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:46 PM   #107 (permalink)
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In my SC thread with picture

SARD
63516 (4 X 530cc) TOYOTA ALTEZZA (SXE10 3S-GE VVT-i) CELICA (ZZT231 2ZZ-GE) MR-S (ZZW30 1ZZ-FE) 530cc Top, High Impedance, 4 Hole, Pale Blue (Pic 8) Time 1.1 msec
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Old 09-05-2009, 07:02 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2mkii View Post
Sard for which engine?
any High impedance, 500+ cc , Top Feed, Pencil-style Injectors, Variable spray pattern nozzle injectors should do. Not sure if RC Eng makes any of this type....but if you look around they are sold quite frequently...just not always with the big brand names like SARD


edit: GM/Ford/American Crap Brands seem to be using pencil injectors lately....do Delphi injectors?
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:37 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
In my SC thread with picture

SARD
63516 (4 X 530cc) TOYOTA ALTEZZA (SXE10 3S-GE VVT-i) CELICA (ZZT231 2ZZ-GE) MR-S (ZZW30 1ZZ-FE) 530cc Top, High Impedance, 4 Hole, Pale Blue (Pic 8) Time 1.1 msec
yup thems the devils
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Old 09-11-2009, 01:28 AM   #110 (permalink)
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Have you got the head off yet ?
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Old 09-12-2009, 08:27 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Have you got the head off yet ?
no not yet...will be in a couple of weeks due to work etc...have you finished yet??
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Old 09-13-2009, 02:52 AM   #112 (permalink)
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Nah not yet
But as i said im curious to see the top of your cylinders
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Old 09-13-2009, 07:10 AM   #113 (permalink)
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Nah not yet
But as i said im curious to see the top of your cylinders
as soon as it's off I'll post some pics
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:28 PM   #114 (permalink)
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so building up to pull the head off...are the bolts stretch or not..if so i need new bolts...recomendations please...also part numbers for the bearings would be good or uprated ones even better...having done lots of research the beams shares lots of parts with the 3sgte
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:43 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsoul45 View Post
so building up to pull the head off...are the bolts stretch or not..if so i need new bolts...recomendations please...also part numbers for the bearings would be good or uprated ones even better...having done lots of research the beams shares lots of parts with the 3sgte
buy some ARP head studs for 3sgte and you're good, things about head studs not working because of 12mm sockets is pure myth... you simply need a 12mm sockets on your 3/8 drive torque bar and you're good... you won't be able to use 1/2 drive...

bearings ACL race for 3sgte or any other
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:16 PM   #116 (permalink)
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Seriously at this stage your far away to worry about bearings . You have a lot of work and $ before that.
It easy to dismantle an engine , hey were guys BUT it can be hard to put it together and have serious problem and heart break if not done right .
You should consider printing all the pages of TOYODIY on the parts of the engine.
As you take a bolt/part off put it into a glad zip bag. Number the page and identification number. Then you will know where it belongs. Missing this step you will have a bag of bolts and i can assure you that you will go crazy.
You have pistons but do you have rods yet ?
Then you will have to torque plate and hone for the pistons.
Thenyou need to consider oil/water pump and full gasket kit. I dare say that is already a couple of grand.
You need to look at your crank shaft. Does it need machining ?
Then worry about bearings. Then you will need to measure and get the right thickness.
Ild stay with Toyota , nothing wrong with them.
This is after a LOT of research and talking to engine builders that do it day in day out.
Engines from the factory are put together great. Mess up the rebuild and your in the ****.
All of Toyotas 3s series have the same cranks and bearing sizes.
Then you need also to see if the shims are ok ?
You just cant pistons , rods and things together witout measuring the tokerances.
See this is why it can be expensive.
Buying parts is easy if you have the cash but ild be more concerned about the short block thats why if anyone remained stock i would ALWAYS have them consider a short block new from Toyota as oppossed to a rebuild , at least there will be peace of mind.
Your injectors would have been the last thing to buy.
Let the fun begin.
Rods , boring , crank , bearings , auxiliaries , head rebuild ? , gasket set etc.
Now you will see why few people do it and just get a turbo and boost it more.
You will have to do all that im doing whether it be Turbo or Super charger. Only difference is ones on the echaust the other on a pulley.
Hope this hasnt put a damper on things but you must do them.


Anal

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Old 09-18-2009, 12:20 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsoul45 View Post
so building up to pull the head off...are the bolts stretch or not..if so i need new bolts...recomendations please...also part numbers for the bearings would be good or uprated ones even better...having done lots of research the beams shares lots of parts with the 3sgte
Would never consider bolts.
Look at all the great cars all studs
Also consider Stainless steel studs and bolts on the exhaust system

Last edited by MANDALAY; 09-18-2009 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 09-18-2009, 01:46 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MANDALAY View Post
Seriously at this stage your far away to worry about bearings . You have a lot of work and $ before that.
It easy to dismantle an engine , hey were guys BUT it can be hard to put it together and have serious problem and heart break if not done right .
You should consider printing all the pages of TOYODIY on the parts of the engine.
As you take a bolt/part off put it into a glad zip bag. Number the page and identification number. Then you will know where it belongs. Missing this step you will have a bag of bolts and i can assure you that you will go crazy.
You have pistons but do you have rods yet ?
Then you will have to torque plate and hone for the pistons.
Thenyou need to consider oil/water pump and full gasket kit. I dare say that is already a couple of grand.
You need to lool at your crank shaft. Does it need machining ?
Then worry abot bearings. There you will need to measure and get the right thickness.
Ild stay with Toyota , nothing wrong with them.
This is after a LOT of research and ralking to engine buifers that do it fay in day out.
Engines from the factory are put together great. Mess up the rebuild and your in the ****.
All of Toyotas 3s series have the same cranks and bearing sizes.
Then you need also to see if the shims are ok ?
You just cant pistons , rods and things together witout measuring the tokerances.
See this is why it can be expensive.
Buying parts is easy if you have the cash but ild be more concerned about the short block thats why if anyone remained stock i would ALWAYS have them consider a short block new from Toyota as oppossed to a rebuild , at least there will be peace of mind.
Your injectors would have been the last thing to buy.
Let the fun begin.
Rods , boring , crank , bearings , auxiliaries , head rebuild ? , gasket set etc.
Now you will see why few people do it and just get a turbo and boost it more.
You will have ro do all that im doing whether it be Turbo or Super charger. Only difference is ones on the echaust the other on a pulley.
Hope this hasnt put a damper on things nut you must do them.


Anal
thanks my anal friend....you would have to put me off with a shotgun
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:24 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Cool.
Thays why i wanted to see a pic with the head off , to see the condtion of your cylinders.
Start looking for a reputable engine borer. And number and bag those nuts/bolts so if you miss one i can easily identify it.
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Old 10-03-2009, 04:57 PM   #120 (permalink)
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so put the manifold and turbo bits together for a rough idea of the fitting,need to get the bolts and studs sorted,
not using the ones in the images just used then to get an idea,the manifold needs finishing after I dressed it..still not the best finish so I'll get it coated in black...apart from that it's going to fit just fine

this is the down pipe side with oil return...would the return be better going up so the oil in there is always high ????


so this is the side view


and this is the header side..the stump was for a external wastegate but because I don't plan to run high boost i cut that sucker off and blanked it


engine has had some more cleaning but still has a long way to go..all pulleys to be alli



got some nice seats to fitt as well


more internal work soon as i will be pulling the motor to bits soon..remember how tidy the shed was?????

like the BBQ.....waiting for some nice weather and a long weekend off....lol

got the kettle and radio sorted
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