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| Braking / Suspension If you're gonna go fast you need to keep it under control - We can help. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Costa Rica
Posts: 3
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iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
Brake fluid question
What kind of brake fuid are you using, DOT3, DOT4, why?
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#2 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada
Posts: 31
Thanks: 1
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iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
ATE Superblue.
I switched from Kleen-flo Dot 4 following some brake fade issues at track days. It worked, but I also switched from an unknown set of pads (came with the car, was probably 3+ years old) to Carbotech XP8s and replaced an old set of rotors with new LordCo (NAPA type store) plain face/vented rotors. I also added a Bedell master cylinder brace. Apart from the noise and dust that the XP8s generate on the street, I'm quite happy with the package all round, just working out a set of stainless lines to finish it off. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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3.4L 10K RPM In the works
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 8,895
Thanks: 34
Thanked 80 Times in 66 Posts
iTrader Rating: (9/100% ) |
DOT4 fluid will handle a lot more racing around then DOT3 will, i use DOT4 whenever i can really.
__________________
-Johnny @ Sea2Sky Tuning - www.sea2skytuning.com http://www.mr2.com/forums/sea2sky-tu...-out-sale.html |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 4,848
Thanks: 125
Thanked 258 Times in 228 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
I use ATE Blue also, and carbotech XP-8s.
Awesome awesome setup for track days. Your brakes are there 100% of the time.Aside from track day usage and a need for tolerance to high temperatures there really is no reason to use anything other than a normal dot 3. Quote:
The highest temp stuff I've found is a clear NAPA brand silicon lubricant with a high end of 600*. It usually works well for a track day or two then I need to reapply. Keeps the brakes quiet as a mouse.
__________________
"Inside the car, the world beyond the driver's immediate horizon ceases to exist. Alone with the solitude of his desire, survival sense numbed by the speed, he's outrun the mediocrity of the outside world, slipped the shackles it tries to clamp on us all. He is running free, chased only by a fear of failure, for failure is to risk ejection into the real world." ~Mark Hughes |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Gairloch For This Useful Post: | adrian_irwin (10-18-2007) |
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#5 (permalink) |
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3.4L 10K RPM In the works
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 8,895
Thanks: 34
Thanked 80 Times in 66 Posts
iTrader Rating: (9/100% ) |
hrmm i have to look into that pad...this is already a good thread
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#6 (permalink) |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 4,848
Thanks: 125
Thanked 258 Times in 228 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
Carbotech pads are the bomb and they're very expensive.
Carbotech - Racing They are a complete waste for a street only driven car or even autox. If you take your car to road courses though they are the best option out there I've found. Only time I've ever felt a Carobotech XP-8 fade a *little* was when it was just about down to the backing plate. If you want phenomenal braking they are the ****. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada
Posts: 31
Thanks: 1
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iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
Amen to that. The upside is that they work just fine with basic (vented), non-slotted, non-drilled discs, so you can get the cheapies
They worked so well at the first track day, that the discs ended up 'blueing' around the hub. And absolutely no fade. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 4,848
Thanks: 125
Thanked 258 Times in 228 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
I know we've seriously tangented off of brake fluid but one more thing about the carbotech pads.
Bedding *matters* for these. You probably won't notice the difference on the street but on the race track you will find that your stopping distances have mysteriously increased if your pads aren't well bedded anymore. Lots of stop and go traffic will destroy the bedding. These pads are the masochistic bitch of the auto world. The worse you hurt 'em the better they work. If your pads are brand new or you find that your bedding has gotten trashed the best way I've found to deal with that are either some really long stops on the race track, drag the brakes, and heat the hell out of 'em or option B. If you can't get up to 100 mph to do a decent stop, or shouldn't *cough*, then you can just go out to the freeway and drag your brakes until they are hot enough to smell and you are good to go. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada
Posts: 31
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
I had good success heading out on an empty stretch of highway and repeatedly slamming on my brakes (slowing down to about 15km/h), followed by flooring it to get back up to the speed limit, then repeating immediately. According to the instructions that comes with the pads, you pull over after they start to fade. I did this and there was quite the smoke show coming from my fronts for a good five minutes while they cooled off.
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