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| Braking / Suspension If you're gonna go fast you need to keep it under control - We can help. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Some Skills
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SST tool for rear brakes
SST 09719-14020 (09719-00020).
Anyone in south florida have onbe I can borrow or know a place I can get one? Also.. I am getting this weird ticking sound from my rear driver side wheel when I make turns or go over 50+ mph.... Any ideas? Last edited by esreveRBackwards; 07-31-2008 at 06:12 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Lovin' the curves!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Decatur,IL/Solomons,MD
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You should be able to find one at an auto parts store.
The ticking noise might me a wheel bearing. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Getting there
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 265
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vise grips work. That's what I used yesterday
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#4 (permalink) |
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msnusers.com/mr2projects
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Queen Creek, AZ
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What tool is that? Are you just trying to compress the pistons in the calipers? I use a block of wood and a C clamp. The other tool that screws the piston in (can't remember if that's the fronts or the rears?) can be picked up at Checkers or some other parts house like bluemr2 says.
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#5 (permalink) |
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ST185 Powered SW20
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
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Yeah, you can BUY that tool from autozone if you have one, for 30 dollars or so.
Or you can just rent it and take it back. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: New Castle PA
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You can use a set of needle nose pliers, just grab the center and push in and twist clock wise they can be pretty hard to move so get a good grip on the pliers
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#7 (permalink) |
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Lord Anti-Rice
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Roseville, CA
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Totally not worth it. Done it. Spent the money on the tool at Autozone and did it the easy way every time after that.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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CV joint
Have you checked to see if the boots on your drive shaft are intact?
__________________
"Inside the car, the world beyond the driver's immediate horizon ceases to exist. Alone with the solitude of his desire, survival sense numbed by the speed, he's outrun the mediocrity of the outside world, slipped the shackles it tries to clamp on us all. He is running free, chased only by a fear of failure, for failure is to risk ejection into the real world." ~Mark Hughes |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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It's not hard to find at all. CV joints are only in the front when you're dealing with a front wheel drive vehicle
![]() Just look at the drive shafts going from the tranny to the knuckles. There's a great big rubber boot in the middle of them covering a joint. I bet you money that the one on the driver's side is cracked and there's grease all over the bottom of your engine from it spinning out. Basically what this means is you're likely going to have to replace the drive shaft. I'm 95%+ sure that I'm right here. BTW, this is one of the many reasons to do your own oil changes. The last half dozen guys that changed your oil had to of looked straight at this without saying anything. If you catch the boot before the joint is damaged you can replace the boot and save the shaft if you're so inclined. Last edited by Gairloch; 08-01-2008 at 05:14 PM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Gairloch For This Useful Post: | esreveRBackwards (08-01-2008) |
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#12 (permalink) |
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tenacity
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SE Indiana
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disc brake pad compressor
Not exactly sure what you're looking for, but Harbor Freight has these.
![]() I usually use a C clamp and block of wood to push pads in. I haven't looked at the pads on the 2 though. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Some Skills
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Well, I was wrong about where the noise was coming from. It or was coming from the front right tire. I did all the brakes today and put new pads on. No more noise. I took the advice of Gairloch and the boots on the back are good to go...
I had alot of problems with pressing in the piston back in on the front pads. I had to loosen the bleeder valve inorder to push them back in.... Thoughts? |
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