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#1 (permalink)
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Charleston, South Carolina
Posts: 112
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
New and ready to buy!
I joined here because I'm thinking about buying a MR2. It has 128,000 miles, T-tops, new rims and tires (not very fond of the rims...) a CD player, new A/c, stock spoiler(?), is red and gray, and no dents save for one thank fully on the replaceable pop up light. Also, it's NOT a turbo!!!!!!!!!!!!! I really want a turbo car (FYI) and eventually plan on making this (if I get it) a turbo via engine swap or turbo kit w/low comp pistons etc, which ever is more reliable and less expensive). I drive a front engine fwd car right now with about 120-140hp and am sick sick sick of it.
Should I buy? (oh, and it's $5,500) Thanks ahead for your time and consideration, Alex |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 4,472
Thanks: 115
Thanked 222 Times in 195 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% ) |
Welcome, Alex!
From what you describe it sounds like a pretty clean car. However, I suggest that if a turbo car is really want that you seek one out. Neither turbo swap or conversion are easy or inexpensive. If you do want to go with this car, there are a few things you want to ask about and look for before you plunk down your nickle. Here's what I can come up with off the top of my head. I'm sure others will add their pointers. *Unless you feel pretty confident of your ability to assess a vehicle mechanically it's a very good idea to take it to a certified mechanic and have it gone over with a fine tooth comb. Love them as we might most will concede that some MR2s like to do their best to empty your wallet. 1. Clean interior and rust free body are the most important things. 2. Ask about whether the t-top seals are leaking or not. 3. Make sure the windows and locks are working on both sides. This can indicate a wiring harness fault. 4. Watch the car on start up, preferably after it's been sitting for a while. The valve seaks are prone to leaking and it will smoke on start if that's the case. 5. Look for leaks around the head and under the distributor. 6. Wipe a clean cloth across the rear bumper just above the exhaust to look for residue from an engine burning oil. 7. We are finding that as the cars age that original suspension components are failing unless they've been replaced. This includes blown dampers, tired bushings, front strut mounts rusting and/or cracking. There are more but I've got to run so I'll let others contribute ![]() Good luck!
__________________
"Inside the car, the world beyond the driver's immediate horizon ceases to exist. Alone with the solitude of his desire, survival sense numbed by the speed, he's outrun the mediocrity of the outside world, slipped the shackles it tries to clamp on us all. He is running free, chased only by a fear of failure, for failure is to risk ejection into the real world." ~Mark Hughes Last edited by Gairloch; 08-13-2007 at 03:07 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 7
Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
Alex,
The car you describe sounds like a reasonable buy. Any car should get a pre puchase inspection unless you are a really good mechanic with extensive knowledge of MR2s. Cost = $100 to $200. Find a mechanic that likes MR2's - they are not fun to work on (accessability). If you really want a turbo, buy a turbo. Look for a year if you need to. Pay one or two thou above edmunds fmv for a clean low mileage one owner if you can. Know the car's history! You should know that a turbo will cost significantly more for maintenance and repair. The MR2 turbo is considered relatively bulletproof stock, but the elevated opperating temperatures take their toll on everything in the engine compartment - A/C compressor, Alternator, all the bearings, hoses, etc. Modified turbo's can be a real gamble. Some are terrific, some are terrible , some are terrific and terrible - I drove one that dyno tested high 300's hp, but on the road the throtle was nothing more that an on/off switch. Botom line - if turbo is what you want and can afford, spend the time to find one just like you want. The normal aspirated MR2 is also a fun car. It is reliable and affordable. With care and reasonable maintenance they are a 200,000 to 300,000 mi. care - without a rebuild! If you want a fun daily driver, or even a car to drive till you find the turbo you want, they are hard to beat. To find either car, try autotrader.com , craigslist and every online listing you can find plus this sight. After you look at and drive the first 12 or so you will start to see the huge differences that are out there. Avoid salvage titles. Good Luck !!! MR2 Dad |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Japan --> U.S.
Posts: 7,337
Thanks: 74
Thanked 221 Times in 166 Posts
Blog Entries: 1
My Google Map |
Alex,
Welcome to the Board! Here is a good write-up about MR2's for the first time buyers. Its a well written article with lots of information to soak into the ol brain. MR2 For a First Car <-- Click Me
__________________
I am currently in the process of moving to the states. My time online will be limited and spiratic over the next month till around the 3rd week of January.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Charleston, South Carolina
Posts: 112
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
yeah, I read that thread last night...quite a jumble of contradictory information. And although I'm still very much a kid, I've been driving for a looong time and driven all sorts of different cars from SUV's sports cars, sport compact, wagon, AWD, RWD, FWD, 4x4 (I hear it's different from AWD) etc. And I love AWD and RWD. Any AWD car I would get (audi, subaru, VW R32) are all too expensive so I'd gladly settle for rwd, especially in a unique car like the mid engined MR2. I feel I'm mechanically minded enough to do my own turbo engine swap down the road after I become accustom to the N/A. Thanks for all the help you guys. The car I want to buy looks like this: 91 MR2 * Toyota * (Note:rims for sale if I buy it). Also notice dent on pop up light.
And the seller said they might drop it to below $4,000 because of blue book. Thanks for all the help you guys, -Alex |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: tulsa OK
Posts: 102
Thanks: 3
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just buy the damn turbo, if that is what you want. Me being the cynical asshole i am find it hard to believe somebody who does not know the difference between AWD and 4x4 can do any kind of a swap other than oil by themselves.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Charleston, South Carolina
Posts: 112
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
I meant something like all time all wheel drive versus a truck with a diff lock or something of the sort...at least I knew there is a difference. But what do I know, I try to stick away from stuff with "4x4" plastered on the side of it.
I was just looking for guidance is all. Thanks though! -Alex |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: tulsa OK
Posts: 102
Thanks: 3
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Rating: (2/100% ) |
gotcha, sorry for letting the asshole inside me come out but it kinda floored me to think someone does not know the difference, and would attempt a swap on their own! but still, if you want the turbo, get it! it will be worth the few extra bucks to save the hassle! <----my $.02
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#9 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Charleston, South Carolina
Posts: 112
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
no problemo. I don't think I can afford the extra insurance of a turbo car because insurance where I live is bad enough. Also, the initial cost and labor in finding one close enough to me will upset my lovely idea of getting the n/a cheap to "learn" on then "graduating" to a turbo and getting to break down the car and see how it all works/replace parts. Besides, swaps are easy, just unplug a few wires, undo some bolts, replug and rebolt voila your done...right?
hahahaha only kidding (stupid quick reply w/no sarcastic smilies) |
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#10 (permalink) |
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8urvtec
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: West Palm Beach
Posts: 297
Thanks: 5
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Rating: (3/100% ) |
take it to a mechanic and have them look it over and everything they say it needs have them print you out an invoice and tell him to deduct that from the price if you are serious about the car.
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#11 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Vermont
Posts: 365
Thanks: 25
Thanked 22 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader Rating: (2/100% ) |
Listen... if you are already pissed/dissapointed it's not a turbo... then you are only going to be more dissapointed when you get it. I wasn't envious when I got my mr2 5sfe... but as soon as I started thinking mods and build-up, reality kicked me in the head!
Their is a lot more to the turbo version than just the turbo sitting in it... their are differences in the interals, head design, which leads to rpm limits, the tranny, drive train, brakes (93+ years are better), and other standard options to interior and body. The more you know... the more you'll be dissapointed in your NA... and the more you'll regret it. There are only a few special people that have successfully built a turbo'd 5sfe and a lot of really smart and talented people have toated many motors trying. So in conclusion..... Go find a turbo and build it up... you wont regret it later. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Charleston, South Carolina
Posts: 112
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
think it would be worth the swap? besides, the insurance is for an N/A
![]() I'll drive it and see... |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Vermont
Posts: 365
Thanks: 25
Thanked 22 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader Rating: (2/100% ) |
If you're going to do a swap... then why buy a low mileage mr2 for more money. Buy an older one with a tired engine for a lot less. That's just me. Always trying to save a buck.
If you do a swap... add on another $3k+... and it's not even worth your time and effort without a complete clip. That's from what I hear anyway. I think GenIII's are going for around $4k dollars now. So, you can see you are going to be getting close to 10k by the time you are done. What year is this thing anyway? If it's not a 93+ than forget about it. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Charleston, South Carolina
Posts: 112
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
it's a 91 N/A in seemingly perfect condition minus a small dent on pop up headlight. I figured the N/A would be plenty for a while, and I also figured that 128,000 is good enough to, unless I could find an engine-less one I'd do the swap right away (would prefer this).
-ALex |
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.mr2.com/forums/check/Toyota-MR2-19989-new-ready-buy.html
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| Toyota MR2 Message Board | This thread | Refback | 08-16-2007 10:37 AM | |