Gauging interest: New CF Hood styles - Page 2

slo-two · 06-21-2007, 03:32 PM

That NSX-R style hood looks OK, but I'd prefer one without the raised lip because 1) it adds unnecessary drag and 2) it doesn't fit in with 2 styling (it looks more at home on a Honda with their more angular appearance).

Don't ban me from the composites topic just for asking, but...for very small production runs (less than 100) might aluminum not be a better material? You still save a lot of weight over the steel tabletop, especially with the vent structure which allows thin material to make a solid structure. Of course it doesn't look as cool, so it depends on how much money the carbon look (and about two pounds) are worth to you...

turboguy · 06-21-2007, 06:30 PM

A small run of something like that in aluminum would be much more costly than carbon or fg. To make a nice smooth hood, it has to be stamped. The top side , middle, and the lower skeleton. The costs that go into making the dies is unfathomable for something with a small production run. For something like a hood, a die set could cost in upwards of $10 - 20k or more depending on complexity of the whole thing. A good set of molds can be made for $2 - 4K. Materials cost slightly more for cf vs. alum, but the tooling is much cheaper. Fees for using a press capable of supporting dies of this size isn't cheap either.

slo-two · 06-21-2007, 08:52 PM

OK, I stand corrected...thanks for the info. I was assuming there was a feasible method of roll 'n weld etc., but if that's not feasible, then composites would seem the only viable way.

BTW, is there a practical way to make one-off parts? For example, a simple hood or sunroof. The only way I know of, though it hardly seems especially light or stiff, would be composites over a formed wooden structure. Which might require a boat license...

Archidamus-R · 08-12-2009, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ExtremeMr2

Extrememr2- NSX-R style vent pushed more into the middle of the hood
The hood must have a under structure, and use factory latches and mounting.
To use this hood you should cut the front (frunk) and make ducting.
The idea is to direct the air that passes through the radiator out and over the car. (letting air backup and not duct correctly will cause severe drag on the car and will be whorse than factory.)

Ok, I'm confused. Is this in reference to the theoretical NSX-R hood, or the Border-style hoods? Of course I can't really tell from the pictures I've seen, but it looks like the vents in the Border hood are well enough forward of the frunk seals that the outdoors would stay outdoors. So . . . Does the Border-style hood require extensive modifications to the frunk? And where does one acquire the radiator relocation kit? Is it necessary immediately to install the hood, or is it just to help vent the radiator?

Too many questions? :P Thanks in advance.

mr2magic · 08-13-2009, 03:20 AM

I have yet to actual see evidence, that the border style vented hood increases downforce in any noticeable way.

turboguy · 08-13-2009, 09:37 AM

For the Border hood, you remove the plastic in front of the frunk. That is where the vents dip down. All the rad. relocation kit does is tip the top of the radiator forward so some of the air is directed through the vents on the new hood. As mr2magic said above, any difference, other than aesthetics, is negligible

mr3 · 08-13-2009, 11:13 AM

Psssst, this thread is over 2 years old.

turboguy · 08-13-2009, 12:26 PM

meh. It happens.

Archidamus-R · 08-13-2009, 03:55 PM

Sorry for digging up this thread. Thanks though.

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06-21-2007, 03:32 PM	#21 (permalink)
slo-two Do the Math. Then Drive. Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Central California Posts: 68 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	That NSX-R style hood looks OK, but I'd prefer one without the raised lip because 1) it adds unnecessary drag and 2) it doesn't fit in with 2 styling (it looks more at home on a Honda with their more angular appearance). Don't ban me from the composites topic just for asking, but...for very small production runs (less than 100) might aluminum not be a better material? You still save a lot of weight over the steel tabletop, especially with the vent structure which allows thin material to make a solid structure. Of course it doesn't look as cool, so it depends on how much money the carbon look (and about two pounds) are worth to you...

06-21-2007, 06:30 PM	#22 (permalink)
turboguy Resident Composites Guy Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Appleton, WI Posts: 888 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	A small run of something like that in aluminum would be much more costly than carbon or fg. To make a nice smooth hood, it has to be stamped. The top side , middle, and the lower skeleton. The costs that go into making the dies is unfathomable for something with a small production run. For something like a hood, a die set could cost in upwards of $10 - 20k or more depending on complexity of the whole thing. A good set of molds can be made for $2 - 4K. Materials cost slightly more for cf vs. alum, but the tooling is much cheaper. Fees for using a press capable of supporting dies of this size isn't cheap either.

06-21-2007, 08:52 PM	#23 (permalink)
slo-two Do the Math. Then Drive. Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Central California Posts: 68 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	OK, I stand corrected...thanks for the info. I was assuming there was a feasible method of roll 'n weld etc., but if that's not feasible, then composites would seem the only viable way. BTW, is there a practical way to make one-off parts? For example, a simple hood or sunroof. The only way I know of, though it hardly seems especially light or stiff, would be composites over a formed wooden structure. Which might require a boat license...

08-13-2009, 03:20 AM	#25 (permalink)
mr2magic deutsch type skillz Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Hannover, Germany Posts: 904 Thanks: 73 Thanked 36 Times in 33 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	I have yet to actual see evidence, that the border style vented hood increases downforce in any noticeable way.

08-13-2009, 09:37 AM	#26 (permalink)
turboguy Resident Composites Guy Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Appleton, WI Posts: 888 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	For the Border hood, you remove the plastic in front of the frunk. That is where the vents dip down. All the rad. relocation kit does is tip the top of the radiator forward so some of the air is directed through the vents on the new hood. As mr2magic said above, any difference, other than aesthetics, is negligible

08-13-2009, 11:13 AM	#27 (permalink)
mr3 Cage Fighter Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa Posts: 813 Thanks: 18 Thanked 25 Times in 24 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Psssst, this thread is over 2 years old.

08-13-2009, 12:26 PM	#28 (permalink)
turboguy Resident Composites Guy Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Appleton, WI Posts: 888 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	meh. It happens.

08-13-2009, 03:55 PM	#29 (permalink)
Archidamus-R ...Modest Skills Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: MO Posts: 68 Thanks: 8 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Sorry for digging up this thread. Thanks though.