If it ain't broke --- don't fix it!

BillyDoc · 12-10-2008, 04:56 PM

That's real good advice. Wish I had taken it. So far, I've replaced a fuel filter that was perfectly good, a fuel pressure regulator that was also good, a fuel pump, likewise (that was fun), cleaned up the Air Flow sensor and replaced the fuel pump relay. And my Mr. Two just keeps running great for a while, then dies like the switch is turned off --- but it isn't.

It's the 3S-GTE engine, 1993 model. Sometimes it dies after a few minutes, sometimes I can go seven or eight miles. If I wait about 10 minutes it starts right up again! (Which is good, I can limp home that way.) Before I replaced the fuel pump relay I could hear the pump running right after it died for a few seconds, then it would stop. No error codes from the computer.

I'm stumped. Does anyone have any idea what's causing this? Or even some way to do some testing? Could the alternator do this, for example?

Any help will be GREATLY appreciated!!!!

BillyDoc

MR2-MRnot · 12-10-2008, 05:15 PM

well i drive an NA but i actually had the SAME problem, i would drive for an while and it would die, and not restart, then it would do the same, it ended up being the ignition coil!!!! i would check that, i changed the coil and the ignition module which the coil is bolted too! its located below the fusebox on the drivers side, but make sure u pay attention when u pull it off, there are a couple grounds that it holds down too, i would check it, when i pulled mine it was all green and corroded inside! just some thought, but it fixed mine!

BillyDoc · 12-10-2008, 05:43 PM

MR2-MRnot,

I would have thought that the ignition coil would work or not work, but I will definitely take a look at that tomorrow! It's raining like crazy here at the moment, and will be dark soon.

I sure hope you're right, that sounds like an actual easy fix! And even easy to test, come to think of it. I have a timing light with an inductive pickup I can use.

Thanks!

BillyDoc

Ben · 12-10-2008, 09:57 PM

It could be the idle speed control valve (on the bottom of the throttle body). Cleaning the throttle body might help as well (and its free and easy to do).

masagsxr · 12-11-2008, 12:31 AM

You know for motorcycles its usually this module called "rectifier". When the bike warms up after a while a bad rectifier would overheat and the bike would die. So you gotta wait a while and the bike will start up again...

Maybe in this case the problem could be the ignition coil? Just thinking out loud. See what you could test in that area since you say the car would run and after a few miles it would die..... Thats the same case when I used to own an 84 200sx turbo. Something electrical for sure.

BillyDoc · 12-13-2008, 03:41 PM

MR2-MRnot. Well, it rained for two days and then I had some other work to do and couldn't get to it - - - but I just did. I rigged up a timing light with an inductive pickup tied to the back engine cover so I could see it in my rearview mirror and went for a drive. Unfortunately, when the motor died I still had a good spark. When trying to restart it before the mandatory waiting period, it also showed a good spark. After about 5 minutes it started up and I hustled home.

I did get something of a clue, though, that I had noticed before and forgotten. When trying to start it when it won't, when I let off on the key I can hear the fuel pump (I think) keep going with about a one to two second brrrruuuup then stop. It sounds like the fuel pressure is low and the pump is catching up. This is why I changed the fuel pressure regulator originally, I thought it must be sticking open or something so the fuel was just dumping thus causing the fuel pressure to be low. That didn't change anything, so I replaced the fuel pump next (and the filter hidden underneath and the one in the tank) --- and again no joy. When I tested the fuel pump relay it did test bad (bad contact) and I replaced that but the dying didn't change at all.

Ben, It idles just fine when it runs and I cleaned the throttle body too. I tried just disconnecting the plug on the idle speed control but it still does the same thing. Runs at a high idle, then just dies. Thanks for the ideas, but no joy yet.

masagsxr, I know what you mean with the motorcycles. I've been using mine a lot lately, and boy do I hate riding in cold rain! But I think with the MR2 the equivalent rectifiers are in the alternator and if those went bad I should get an error message and a light on the dash, but I don't get either. Good thought, though!

So it just about has to be something to do with the fuel, but what? Could an injector fail in some way that just lets fuel "dump?" And if it did wouldn't the engine just run badly, not just stop altogether? Or, does the computer somehow sense a low fuel pressure condition and shut things down? But wouldn't that shut down the spark as well and give me an error code?

HELP!!!! It's too cold for motorcycles!

BillyDoc

Its Turbo Time · 12-13-2008, 03:53 PM

BillyDoc · 12-13-2008, 04:14 PM

Um, OK --- Its Turbo Time screwed it up! And now he won't tell me how to fix it!

I'm going to tell his MOM!!!!

Its Turbo Time · 12-13-2008, 04:39 PM

haha sorry I had to, got that hangin on my wall above the comp haha.

I had a similar issue about a year ago, ended up being I was in a rush when I put my ecu in, I only mounted it with one bolt, the car would run for a few min, then all of a sudden would die and then not start up for a while, really very sparatic timing sometimes it would run for almost a half hour other times only a few minutes. I say go check all your grounds, make sure all the components are bolted down properly with no dirt and grime stick in there.

BillyDoc · 12-13-2008, 05:05 PM

Thanks Turbo, I have to get out of here now but will give that a try tomorrow.

Oh, your Mom said she wants to talk to you.

LokiRx7 · 12-13-2008, 09:51 PM

Toyota ECU's depend on an IGF signal from the ignition module. My MR2 had spark, but the ignition module wasnt sending out the proper IGF signal to the ECU, it threw a trouble code, I replaced the module problem solved.

The symptoms were identical to yours, ignition modules can slowly start to go bad. They get worse when they are hot, and eventually they will one day cease working.

The ECU sends an IGT signal to the ignitor module to tell it to spark. When the coil and ignition module creates a spark successfully the ignitor module sends an IGF signal back to the ECU, saying mission complete. The ECU then uses the IGF signal to trigger the injectors.

So, no IGF signal doesnt mean you dont have spark, but the ECU doesnt know there is spark because the ignition module is no longer talking to it, so it will shut down the injectors...

I wrestled with this problem until I decide to actually check my trouble codes... I thought I had a fuel problem because I had spark. As soon as I replaced that module though, the car ran great!

So, moral of the story, try checking your trouble codes. Oh, I apoligize if my IGF/IGT explanation wasnt perfect, someone else could probably say it better. But I got the basic principle correct. I am sure its extremely similiar even though I have an MK1 because most new Lexus ECU's work the same way with IGT and IGF.

ve2dict · 12-13-2008, 10:17 PM

....thought he said he did check his trouble codes....maybe try fuel pressure test and volume test if u think its a fuel prob

BillyDoc · 12-15-2008, 06:31 PM

Hi Turbo, I checked the grounds and no luck. It went for 24 minutes (10 miles) before croaking this time. I've been looping around the block for testing so it was only about 100 yards from home when it died. One clue, the engine compartment fan was on, and it took about 45 minutes before it would start again. Much longer than usual. But then, it's actually warm here today. It was damn cold before.

Hi LokiRx7, I thought your explanation was very good. Thanks! Still no trouble codes though. At this point I'm assuming that there would be a code if the ignitor failed to talk back to the engine ECU. In any case now I have an idea of how to check that feedback loop, which is very useful.

I was hoping that the thing would stay broken so I could trouble shoot it and find the problem, but no luck. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the "solenoid resistor" that is in series with the injectors and set it up so I can heat it up with a heat gun while reading the resistance. I'm thinking that it might be getting warm and opening up internally, which would certainly match the symptoms. I'll let you guys know how it goes! And thank you all for your help with this. If you have any new thoughts, please let me know!

BillyDoc

BillyDoc · 12-16-2008, 02:11 PM

Well, I just heated the solenoid resister(s) up with a heat-gun until they were way too hot to touch and all four resistors stayed at a solid 6 ohms. Put everything back together and tried to take it for a few laps around the block. I made almost two laps (less than a mile) before it just stopped running. There was just a slight "thud" as the engine stopped firing, then nothing. Engine temp was barely moving, and I only had to wait a few minutes for a restart and a dash back to my driveway, where I held it at a fast idle for the next 10 minutes with no problem.

I really don't think it's a fuel problem any more, because this thing just stops running without any missing or fuss of any sort. I also know now that the spark is continuing to fire when the engine is turning. So, it just about has to be something like a wiring short or some sensor telling the ECU to shut things down. I see in the manual that there is a "Fail-Safe System" that "either controls the system by using data (standard values) recorded in the PCME (ECU) memory or else stops the engine."

The problem is, why no trouble code if the ECU is stopping the engine? Is there a sensor in there that could give a reading that is "not quite good enough" so that it shuts things down, but is good enough to not give a trouble code? Oxygen sensor, maybe? The engine does have over 200,000 miles on it and everything in the engine except the maintenance stuff and the coolant temperature sensor is original. I hadn't done anything too the engine since changing out the timing belt about 20,000 miles ago. This problem started maybe 20 miles past getting home from a 3,000 mile trip with lots of highway driving.

The only things I can think of at the moment that the ECU might think was "serious" enough to do a dead shut down over is the oxygen sensor (for political reasons) and possibly the scenario that LokiRx7 talks about above with the ignitor.

Anybody got a clue?

BillyDoc

BillyDoc · 12-18-2008, 04:14 PM

Well, I just put in a new oxygen sensor, and it really did run great --- for about four miles this time. Then, nothing. Dead. I waited about 15 minutes and it started right up.

This is making me crazy!

BillyDoc

tjmr2 · 12-22-2008, 04:14 PM

I had the same problem with a gasp Chevy Monza once. Changed all kinds of fuel components. Finally took it to the shop, they let it run all day and as soon as it would die they would try and troubleshoot. They eventually found the coil had a high temperature short. When the engine bay warmed up enough the coil would open and no more spark.

Good luck

Jackstand Queen · 12-25-2008, 12:58 PM

I had problems similar to Billydoc's in the past. In one instance I replaced the ignitor module and it fixed it. In another I replaced the ECU with a used unit from Ebay. Both fixes were easy and cheap due to using used parts.

I feel your pain.

BillyDoc · 12-27-2008, 02:47 PM

Hi Tjmr2, I thought it was ignition at first too, but I hooked a timing light up to it with an inductive pickup, strapped it to the grill on top of the engine bay and went for a drive. When the engine stopped there was still a good spark. Grrrrr.

Jackstand Queen, I really, really, don't like to think about replacing that ECU, but I'm getting there in spite of myself. I actually thought I had the problem a few minutes ago, I replaced all of the vacuum lines just on general principle (they were all good) and found a "valve, filter" just aft of the Blow Off Valve that had separated at the glue seam. "At last" I thougt, "an actuall problem!" I glued it up yesterday, installed it today and went for a drive. I didn't make it 2 miles. My neighbors all must think I'm a know-nothing mechanic for sure --- and I'm not in a good place to argue the point I have to admit.

ECU, you say? Oh, %#@$$$$......

BillyDoc

Jackstand Queen · 12-27-2008, 02:58 PM

Billy Doc, you might try running this problem through the MK II generation forums on this board, and other Yota and MR2 boards on the net. There might be a quirky thing peculiar to the 3gste setup that fails often creating your problem. But I'm a MK I guy, and have no feel for the quirks of the 3gste. I've been just tossing generic stuff into the mix.

BillyDoc · 12-27-2008, 03:52 PM

Jackstand Queen, sounds like a good idea. I've just been looking around and see that too much turbo boost can initiate a fuel shutoff, so I'm off to add a layer of grease to myself and see if I can track down the sensor and test it. A clean fuel shut-off is exactly what I think I'm getting. I'll work that angle first . . . cause I'm an optimist I guess.

BillyDoc

12-10-2008, 04:56 PM	#1 (permalink)
BillyDoc No Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 32 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	If it ain't broke --- don't fix it! That's real good advice. Wish I had taken it. So far, I've replaced a fuel filter that was perfectly good, a fuel pressure regulator that was also good, a fuel pump, likewise (that was fun), cleaned up the Air Flow sensor and replaced the fuel pump relay. And my Mr. Two just keeps running great for a while, then dies like the switch is turned off --- but it isn't. It's the 3S-GTE engine, 1993 model. Sometimes it dies after a few minutes, sometimes I can go seven or eight miles. If I wait about 10 minutes it starts right up again! (Which is good, I can limp home that way.) Before I replaced the fuel pump relay I could hear the pump running right after it died for a few seconds, then it would stop. No error codes from the computer. I'm stumped. Does anyone have any idea what's causing this? Or even some way to do some testing? Could the alternator do this, for example? Any help will be GREATLY appreciated!!!! BillyDoc

12-13-2008, 03:41 PM	#6 (permalink)
BillyDoc No Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 32 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Still the same symptoms, but with a good spark MR2-MRnot. Well, it rained for two days and then I had some other work to do and couldn't get to it - - - but I just did. I rigged up a timing light with an inductive pickup tied to the back engine cover so I could see it in my rearview mirror and went for a drive. Unfortunately, when the motor died I still had a good spark. When trying to restart it before the mandatory waiting period, it also showed a good spark. After about 5 minutes it started up and I hustled home. I did get something of a clue, though, that I had noticed before and forgotten. When trying to start it when it won't, when I let off on the key I can hear the fuel pump (I think) keep going with about a one to two second brrrruuuup then stop. It sounds like the fuel pressure is low and the pump is catching up. This is why I changed the fuel pressure regulator originally, I thought it must be sticking open or something so the fuel was just dumping thus causing the fuel pressure to be low. That didn't change anything, so I replaced the fuel pump next (and the filter hidden underneath and the one in the tank) --- and again no joy. When I tested the fuel pump relay it did test bad (bad contact) and I replaced that but the dying didn't change at all. Ben, It idles just fine when it runs and I cleaned the throttle body too. I tried just disconnecting the plug on the idle speed control but it still does the same thing. Runs at a high idle, then just dies. Thanks for the ideas, but no joy yet. masagsxr, I know what you mean with the motorcycles. I've been using mine a lot lately, and boy do I hate riding in cold rain! But I think with the MR2 the equivalent rectifiers are in the alternator and if those went bad I should get an error message and a light on the dash, but I don't get either. Good thought, though! So it just about has to be something to do with the fuel, but what? Could an injector fail in some way that just lets fuel "dump?" And if it did wouldn't the engine just run badly, not just stop altogether? Or, does the computer somehow sense a low fuel pressure condition and shut things down? But wouldn't that shut down the spark as well and give me an error code? HELP!!!! It's too cold for motorcycles! BillyDoc

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12-10-2008, 05:15 PM	#2 (permalink)
MR2-MRnot Cage Fighter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Akron, OH-IO Posts: 654 Thanks: 5 Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	well i drive an NA but i actually had the SAME problem, i would drive for an while and it would die, and not restart, then it would do the same, it ended up being the ignition coil!!!! i would check that, i changed the coil and the ignition module which the coil is bolted too! its located below the fusebox on the drivers side, but make sure u pay attention when u pull it off, there are a couple grounds that it holds down too, i would check it, when i pulled mine it was all green and corroded inside! just some thought, but it fixed mine!

12-10-2008, 05:43 PM	#3 (permalink)
BillyDoc No Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 32 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	MR2-MRnot, I would have thought that the ignition coil would work or not work, but I will definitely take a look at that tomorrow! It's raining like crazy here at the moment, and will be dark soon. I sure hope you're right, that sounds like an actual easy fix! And even easy to test, come to think of it. I have a timing light with an inductive pickup I can use. Thanks! BillyDoc

12-10-2008, 09:57 PM	#4 (permalink)
Ben Same In The End Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Oceanside, CA / Reno, NV Posts: 3,910 Thanks: 18 Thanked 276 Times in 258 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (11/100% )	It could be the idle speed control valve (on the bottom of the throttle body). Cleaning the throttle body might help as well (and its free and easy to do).

12-11-2008, 12:31 AM	#5 (permalink)
masagsxr Cage Fighter Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Norwalk, CA Posts: 3,181 Thanks: 1 Thanked 76 Times in 76 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	You know for motorcycles its usually this module called "rectifier". When the bike warms up after a while a bad rectifier would overheat and the bike would die. So you gotta wait a while and the bike will start up again... Maybe in this case the problem could be the ignition coil? Just thinking out loud. See what you could test in that area since you say the car would run and after a few miles it would die..... Thats the same case when I used to own an 84 200sx turbo. Something electrical for sure.

12-13-2008, 03:53 PM	#7 (permalink)
Its Turbo Time XVRacing Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Jersey Posts: 376 Thanks: 5 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts iTrader Rating: (3/100% )

12-13-2008, 04:14 PM	#8 (permalink)
BillyDoc No Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 32 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Um, OK --- Its Turbo Time screwed it up! And now he won't tell me how to fix it! I'm going to tell his MOM!!!!

12-13-2008, 04:39 PM	#9 (permalink)
Its Turbo Time XVRacing Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Jersey Posts: 376 Thanks: 5 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	haha sorry I had to, got that hangin on my wall above the comp haha. I had a similar issue about a year ago, ended up being I was in a rush when I put my ecu in, I only mounted it with one bolt, the car would run for a few min, then all of a sudden would die and then not start up for a while, really very sparatic timing sometimes it would run for almost a half hour other times only a few minutes. I say go check all your grounds, make sure all the components are bolted down properly with no dirt and grime stick in there.

12-13-2008, 05:05 PM	#10 (permalink)
BillyDoc No Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 32 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Thanks Turbo, I have to get out of here now but will give that a try tomorrow. Oh, your Mom said she wants to talk to you.

12-13-2008, 09:51 PM	#11 (permalink)
LokiRx7 MR2 + Flat Black = FAIL Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: N.C. Ohio Posts: 297 Thanks: 0 Thanked 14 Times in 13 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Toyota ECU's depend on an IGF signal from the ignition module. My MR2 had spark, but the ignition module wasnt sending out the proper IGF signal to the ECU, it threw a trouble code, I replaced the module problem solved. The symptoms were identical to yours, ignition modules can slowly start to go bad. They get worse when they are hot, and eventually they will one day cease working. The ECU sends an IGT signal to the ignitor module to tell it to spark. When the coil and ignition module creates a spark successfully the ignitor module sends an IGF signal back to the ECU, saying mission complete. The ECU then uses the IGF signal to trigger the injectors. So, no IGF signal doesnt mean you dont have spark, but the ECU doesnt know there is spark because the ignition module is no longer talking to it, so it will shut down the injectors... I wrestled with this problem until I decide to actually check my trouble codes... I thought I had a fuel problem because I had spark. As soon as I replaced that module though, the car ran great! So, moral of the story, try checking your trouble codes. Oh, I apoligize if my IGF/IGT explanation wasnt perfect, someone else could probably say it better. But I got the basic principle correct. I am sure its extremely similiar even though I have an MK1 because most new Lexus ECU's work the same way with IGT and IGF.

12-13-2008, 10:17 PM	#12 (permalink)
ve2dict Cage Fighter Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 125 Thanks: 4 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	....thought he said he did check his trouble codes....maybe try fuel pressure test and volume test if u think its a fuel prob

12-15-2008, 06:31 PM	#13 (permalink)
BillyDoc No Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 32 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Hi Turbo, I checked the grounds and no luck. It went for 24 minutes (10 miles) before croaking this time. I've been looping around the block for testing so it was only about 100 yards from home when it died. One clue, the engine compartment fan was on, and it took about 45 minutes before it would start again. Much longer than usual. But then, it's actually warm here today. It was damn cold before. Hi LokiRx7, I thought your explanation was very good. Thanks! Still no trouble codes though. At this point I'm assuming that there would be a code if the ignitor failed to talk back to the engine ECU. In any case now I have an idea of how to check that feedback loop, which is very useful. I was hoping that the thing would stay broken so I could trouble shoot it and find the problem, but no luck. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the "solenoid resistor" that is in series with the injectors and set it up so I can heat it up with a heat gun while reading the resistance. I'm thinking that it might be getting warm and opening up internally, which would certainly match the symptoms. I'll let you guys know how it goes! And thank you all for your help with this. If you have any new thoughts, please let me know! BillyDoc

12-16-2008, 02:11 PM	#14 (permalink)
BillyDoc No Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 32 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Well, I just heated the solenoid resister(s) up with a heat-gun until they were way too hot to touch and all four resistors stayed at a solid 6 ohms. Put everything back together and tried to take it for a few laps around the block. I made almost two laps (less than a mile) before it just stopped running. There was just a slight "thud" as the engine stopped firing, then nothing. Engine temp was barely moving, and I only had to wait a few minutes for a restart and a dash back to my driveway, where I held it at a fast idle for the next 10 minutes with no problem. I really don't think it's a fuel problem any more, because this thing just stops running without any missing or fuss of any sort. I also know now that the spark is continuing to fire when the engine is turning. So, it just about has to be something like a wiring short or some sensor telling the ECU to shut things down. I see in the manual that there is a "Fail-Safe System" that "either controls the system by using data (standard values) recorded in the PCME (ECU) memory or else stops the engine." The problem is, why no trouble code if the ECU is stopping the engine? Is there a sensor in there that could give a reading that is "not quite good enough" so that it shuts things down, but is good enough to not give a trouble code? Oxygen sensor, maybe? The engine does have over 200,000 miles on it and everything in the engine except the maintenance stuff and the coolant temperature sensor is original. I hadn't done anything too the engine since changing out the timing belt about 20,000 miles ago. This problem started maybe 20 miles past getting home from a 3,000 mile trip with lots of highway driving. The only things I can think of at the moment that the ECU might think was "serious" enough to do a dead shut down over is the oxygen sensor (for political reasons) and possibly the scenario that LokiRx7 talks about above with the ignitor. Anybody got a clue? BillyDoc

12-18-2008, 04:14 PM	#15 (permalink)
BillyDoc No Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 32 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Well, I just put in a new oxygen sensor, and it really did run great --- for about four miles this time. Then, nothing. Dead. I waited about 15 minutes and it started right up. This is making me crazy! BillyDoc

12-22-2008, 04:14 PM	#16 (permalink)
tjmr2 Cage Fighter Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Colorado Posts: 309 Thanks: 0 Thanked 48 Times in 45 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I had the same problem with a gasp Chevy Monza once. Changed all kinds of fuel components. Finally took it to the shop, they let it run all day and as soon as it would die they would try and troubleshoot. They eventually found the coil had a high temperature short. When the engine bay warmed up enough the coil would open and no more spark. Good luck

12-25-2008, 12:58 PM	#17 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 677 Thanks: 52 Thanked 56 Times in 53 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I had problems similar to Billydoc's in the past. In one instance I replaced the ignitor module and it fixed it. In another I replaced the ECU with a used unit from Ebay. Both fixes were easy and cheap due to using used parts. I feel your pain.

12-27-2008, 02:47 PM	#18 (permalink)
BillyDoc No Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 32 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Hi Tjmr2, I thought it was ignition at first too, but I hooked a timing light up to it with an inductive pickup, strapped it to the grill on top of the engine bay and went for a drive. When the engine stopped there was still a good spark. Grrrrr. Jackstand Queen, I really, really, don't like to think about replacing that ECU, but I'm getting there in spite of myself. I actually thought I had the problem a few minutes ago, I replaced all of the vacuum lines just on general principle (they were all good) and found a "valve, filter" just aft of the Blow Off Valve that had separated at the glue seam. "At last" I thougt, "an actuall problem!" I glued it up yesterday, installed it today and went for a drive. I didn't make it 2 miles. My neighbors all must think I'm a know-nothing mechanic for sure --- and I'm not in a good place to argue the point I have to admit. ECU, you say? Oh, %#@$$$$...... BillyDoc

12-27-2008, 02:58 PM	#19 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 677 Thanks: 52 Thanked 56 Times in 53 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Billy Doc, you might try running this problem through the MK II generation forums on this board, and other Yota and MR2 boards on the net. There might be a quirky thing peculiar to the 3gste setup that fails often creating your problem. But I'm a MK I guy, and have no feel for the quirks of the 3gste. I've been just tossing generic stuff into the mix.

12-27-2008, 03:52 PM	#20 (permalink)
BillyDoc No Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 32 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Jackstand Queen, sounds like a good idea. I've just been looking around and see that too much turbo boost can initiate a fuel shutoff, so I'm off to add a layer of grease to myself and see if I can track down the sensor and test it. A clean fuel shut-off is exactly what I think I'm getting. I'll work that angle first . . . cause I'm an optimist I guess. BillyDoc