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Old 05-25-2009, 04:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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SC12-Spinging but not boosting?!

Hi people,

My sc12 has stopped boosting. And i can not work out why and it is driving me crazy. Here is how far i have gotten,

*I don't think the belts are slipping. They are not squeaking, but did have a little bit of oil on them, but it has gone now. SC still spining

*I have removed the ABV and taken it to pieces and put it back together. Nothing seems to be the problem.


Has a boost gauge-its not moving....
Has SC no/off switch, when on you can hear it spin and tiny tiny bit more power is noticed. But not what it should be. (barley noticeable).

I am completely beet. I am planing on just removing the whole ABV and plugging up the holes. Anyone have any suggestions? Life without boost is like a three legged race.



the car: 1988 4agze,extractors n full exhaust system, pod filter, Microtech racing ecu, short-shift, 99,750ks.
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Old 05-25-2009, 07:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Maybe the clutch isn''t engaging? I have the same problem with my 4agze in one of my racecars, I haven't got onto it yet to see what the issue is but it happened after the supercharger pulley fell off (that was a first even for me), I put it back on but it hasn't been right since, I may put a smaller pulley on it and lock it up to see if that helps.

Check for split boost pipes and unplugged sensors around the SC area to see if the computer is not letting it engage on account of something misreading.
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Old 05-26-2009, 05:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I am sure the clutch is engaging because when i switch the SC on i can hear the SC start to spin. I have downloaded the "Vacuum hose chart" but can not match it to my setup.

Bought the Car in February, here is what i have,

A line coming out of the ABV to a T (T,No1), One side of the T goes to the Microtech ECU. The other side of the T goes to the other T (T,No2).

(T,No2) The bottom of the T goes to the intake manifold, the other side of the T goes to the valve by the fuel line, Think it is the EGR?

-I have also looked at the canister(?) and it has a line coming out of it but does not go anywhere. (Dangling down the side,Open).

-Would it be better to just remove the ABV complety and plug up the hole on the intake and the SC?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.Cheers,

Luke
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Old 05-26-2009, 05:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Alright, I will try to get a pic of where the lines go on my setup (the working one lol) so you can compare to yours and see if the lines are crossed. I can visualise your vacuum setup but if I just post a pic it's easier.

And you can plug the ABV, but first see if you can get it working right and then test it before tearing it off.
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Old 05-26-2009, 05:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yer that would be great thanks. Were abouts in NZ are you?
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Old 05-26-2009, 05:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hamilton but I'm always around pukekohe, I didn't notice you were from pukekohe, sweet. We could meet up directly some weekend since you are where I frequent and pukekohe is where I keep about 7 of my cars. I would say we could meet up this weekend but I'm racing out in waiuku forest in my mk1.5 for the first time, might still have time to check out your car though. You involved in any of the racing clubs round puke?
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Old 05-26-2009, 05:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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No not as yet. I have had a look at Toyotaspeednz and they have a track day at puke next month. Just carnt become a member on there forums becuase they dont like free email servers.

I am out just by patamohe on the wiukau road. what time are you racing? on sat?

Once i get the SC working i want to do a bit of racing. Then will do the pullys etc.
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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All day saturday, it is part of the waiuku dirt track club. In the off season they run hillclimb/rallysprint events. They have historic use rights and are the only ones allowed to run in the waiuku forest so it's pretty cool. Of course dirt track cars are not the most pretty cars in the world but I keep my mk1.5 pretty nice since some of the cars standards are pretty high just the dirt track club is the event organiser. I want to win the 4 banger class this year I ran it last season but only got third mainly due to realiability issues.

I raced at puke a few times but it is a real horsepower track, v6's and big turbos wipe the floor with the poor 2 (my n/a box tops out at just over 200kph), I made heaps of time in the S's and the hairpin under braking but horsepower just won on that track. It's why I like the rally sprints it lets the little cars haul the big powerful cars times in round the corners.

My parents place is right in puke but my dads work/big shed is out clarks beach way and to get there you pass through patamahoe so you are close to where I cruise round.
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I used to live out clarks beach, i know the area very well. Im just by that big waiuku intersection. My numbers, o two one one seven 0 7 six two 6. Flik me a txt if you out that way this weekend and i can come and meet you there and see your car n vacume line setup.

Cheers,

Luke
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Cool if I have time I will do that maybe on the way to prep my mk1.5 for Sunday, (got my days crossed it's sunday I'm racing, it's gunna be freezing....extra horsepower lol). I'm all round the place at the moment trying to fix cars it's pretty hectic.
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Old 05-27-2009, 05:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yesterday i removed the ABV and made a piece to block it off... Drew around the ABV's cardboard gaskit and made another one out of steel minus the hole in the middle. Then put the ABV back in and conected it to the SC etc. Going to block off the Vacumm nipple of the ABV on the weekend. Ran out of light last night, bloody day light savings. haha.

Will test it out on the weekend and post the results. I also played around with the Vaccum lines and it still would not boost. Does the canister need to be conected to the vaccum line? what does the canister do?

Also took my intercooler off and sat in front to the T.V with the twezers, straighting up the bent metal (things). hahahahahaha
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The canister isn't the TVIS canister is it? Where abouts is the canister, under the intake manifold. Could be the charcol canister, depends where it is.

On another note I'm not touching another cooling fin again, I repaired a full aluminium racing radiator after Dean perkins crashed his touring car, was not fun. I did get an $800 radiator out of it though lol.
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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When looking at the engine from the the front of the car, its over by the right wheel. Has two lines coming out of it, one bigger then the other one that is just hanging down.

Yer after a while i was going crosseyed. haha.
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:58 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You say you have got a few cars? All mr2s?
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Old 05-28-2009, 02:54 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I do have a few, I race them, I have about 6 MR2's. A couple SC mr2s a mk1.5 and one mkII. The others are just old n/a's. I still have my first one from when I got into racing, it is pretty beaten up but it goes first pop every time gotta love how eager that poor car is.
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Old 05-28-2009, 09:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Ok i made that piece to block off the ABV. Instaled it and blocked the vaccum nipple. Toke the car for a drive, My boost gauge has started working again, but is only showing vaccum. The car seems to have a little bit more pull, but not as much as i know it should.

Going to play around with the vaccum lines again tonight. How do you tell if belts are slipping?

Also conected the vaccum lines up to that canister..? Car was idling at 2.5 before and now it is normal again.?
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Old 05-29-2009, 10:03 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I hate to interrupt, but I don't think the subject of worn, or maladjusted SC pulley clutch has been raised.

The Big Green Toyota service manual outlines a procedure using a dial gauge to measure desirable SC clutch adjustment.

Try bending a feeler gauge and inserting it instead.

Bench test your SC with 12 volt power. Holding the rotor shaft still with a wrench, you should not be able to spin the outer portion of the SC pulley using your hand.

Try removing a shim, or shims from beneath the outer SC clutch piece, if its not grabbing hard enough. You might have to file down the perch the outer clutch piece sits on, in order to bring the two clutch surfaces close enough.

If your pulley belt is slipping, it tends to shred the rubber on the inside belt surface. Look for eroded looking rubber.
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Old 06-01-2009, 02:23 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Yes i think it could be that. But it is a matter of pulling out the engine to see. I am planing on waiting a few more months and getting one of the Pulleybros pulleys, they come with a new SC clutch. Also doing a few other things well the engine is out, cams, crank pulley, water pump pulley, alternator pulley, lightened flywheel. It also needs to be Dyno'd.

Another thing is that it had the engine seals done 5000ks ago, but now they are leaking. The mechanic needs a bullet. And oil is leaking out of the crank, and i think it may be getting on to the belt--this would cause them to slip but not squeal or wear.

Am i correct?
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Old 06-01-2009, 02:44 AM   #19 (permalink)
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You don't have to pull the engine to adjust the SC clutch. But you do have to pull the SC out, which is a piece O' work.

My engine doesn't leak a drop anywhere. I do the work myself. And I used a newer sealant where appropriate called "Right Stuff". Its really good.
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Old 06-01-2009, 03:39 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Oil leaking on the belt may make it slip but unless it is gushing onto it the belt should squeal. I was busy again so didn't hit you for a meet up even though I was in the area. I can still get the pics up though, out of interest is the microtech computer standalone or a piggyback?
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