2ZZ-GE Engine Swap Info

[Luni]

Originally Posted by mr220v

There is probably more willingness to blow up a $500 1zz than a $2000 2zz.


I guess the lift point would be an issue. You could use an rpm activated switch to have it come on a little bit sooner. I'm sure somebody has tried this, wonder what the outcome was?

Moving lift point lower does no good unless you can change timing to suit it. You need a standalone and a good tune to do it right.

Theyve played with this over at newcelica.org

Seriously anyone looking to play around with a 2zz needs to go over there. They were the first ones to do it. Before people were putting them in MR2s, these guys were messing with them.

I dont think the 2zz vs 1zz hp thing is an issue of being afraid to blow up an engine. This has been done by a company who I doubt has too much concern over blowing up an engine in the interest of R&D. The 1zz is a better choice to go with for boost. The only reason why youd want a 2zz for boost is if you ARENT going balls out. Like if youre just looking for around 250-300 hp on a low boost setup on a 2zz thats great. You get boost, then you get LIFT and a fun powerband.

I was just saying what I did, because straight up, to this day, 1zz's are making more power with turbos right now. So if thats your bag of chips and you want to make a really fast spyder with a turbo, Id stick with the 1zz. If you want that honda like powerband and fun of an 8200 rpm redline (even higher with a powerfc) then go with the 2zz.

[Brad Bedell]

Originally Posted by Luni

True Brad, but from what Ive read, theyve still made more power under boost on a 1zz than they have on a 2zz. At least thats what Ive seen from looking on newcelica.org and spyderchat.

See, that's where the disconnect happens. 99% of the message board population don't know how to use the power they have in stock form. Dyno chart racing doesn't do it for me. It's a waste of money IMO.

280 at the wheels on a 10,000rpm 2zz Spyder is plenty of power to exit a 90mph corner sideways. (on race rubber) One other side note, under boost the 2zz spike in power pretty much disappears.

[Weasy2k]

Originally Posted by Brad Bedell

See, that's where the disconnect happens. 99% of the message board population don't know how to use the power they have in stock form. Dyno chart racing doesn't do it for me. It's a waste of money IMO.

280 at the wheels on a 10,000rpm 2zz Spyder is plenty of power to exit a 90mph corner sideways. (on race rubber) One other side note, under boost the 2zz spike in power pretty much disappears.

Quoted for the Truth

[KillerBug]

I'm in an '02 spyder right now, but there is a MK1 behind the local mechanics shop that needs an engine...maybee I'll throw a 2zz into my spyder and toss the 1zz from the spyder into the Mk1...

[blown59]

Over time my hesitation at cam change-over progressed to other issues. ie. hard starts, rough idle...

Long story short: I used J30R9 Goodyear high pressure fuel injection hose. Great stuff, but not intended to be submersed in fuel.

If you plan on sumbersing fuel line in well... fuel, use J30R10 or 30R10. Its rated for intank use. The outter jacket of 30R9 or J30R9 is only rated against ozone, oils, etc.

I learned this only after replacing the fuel pump once and the fuel line now for a third time. The first two times I replaced the fuel line I found splits in the outter jackets and the braid over the inner sleeve was bubbled and had splits in it as well. This allowed for a drop in fuel pressure.

Turned out to be a simple fix, just frustrating at the time I wasted looking at other possible problem areas.

Runs without a problem once again