2ZZ-GE Engine Swap Info

[blown59]

Write up for installing 2ZZ-GE with C-60 into MK1. If you choose to use an alternate transaxle, you will encounter other variables. Ill try my best to remember everything and add part #'s where applicable.


1. Mounting Points- All 3 transaxle mounts can be used from the C-52. Some fab work is necessary for the passenger motor mount.

2. Evap/Fuel system - make returnless, somewhat extensive
*check the other board for write-up with pics on making a return system returnless*

3. Slave cylinder - minor requires 3/16 female to male M12 coupling (brake fitting) From the firewall chassis fitting to 3/16" aluminum brake line. Use tube bender to make custom bends. Attach to the C-60's slave.

4. Header - reweld flange or contact David Lee (LittleRocket) who sells Brad Bedell's header. I custom frabricated my own B-Pipe. Bedell may eventually have a B-Pipe available.

5. Axles - 91+ MR2 N/A non-ABS

6. Power Steering Pump removed - 1ZZ Idler pulley PN:13570-22010

7. Coolant/Heater hose - custom setup, many ways to do this.

8. Clutch selector cable bracket - Moddified C-52 bracket to sit higher on the C-60

9. Transaxle Mod - Note: I used a transaxle from a JDM Fielder which is like that of the Matrix/Vibe. I had to reverse the select lever to exit the front of the housing. Using the Celica version does not require this mod. PapoJ rotated the selector lever 180* to match the cables, but used a C-52 bellhousing. This allowed for him to use the C-52 cable bracket in the factory location. I modified my C-52 bracket to sit higher like it did on the original transaxle. All internal springs, clips, select levers, etc. were swapped from the Fielder's select lever shaft to the Celica's version select lever shaft.

Celica select lever shaft. PN: 33261-20080

9. Dipstick and Tube - MRS 1ZZ
- some minor tweaking was required to get it to fit.
Dipstick PN: 15301-22040
Guide(tube) PN: 11452-22040

10. Fuel Line - filter to fuel rail. I cut banjo fitting from the fuel line of the 4AGE where it mates to the filter and the quick-connect from the 2ZZ fuel line where it attaches to the fuel rail. These fittings were already barbed and inserted into 5/15" fuel injection hose. *Dont Use Fuel/Evap Hose* Its not rated for the higher PSI. Hose clamps should be used as well. 1 hose to connect the 4AGE filter to the 2ZZ rail.

I still have my notes and the JDM Pinouts(wiring diagram), Connector Chart and Fuse/Relay Box for the early version of the Fielder/RunX/Alan in PDF format. Extensive...


This is how I have wired mine thus far.

I used the molex(N1) in the trunk and M1 and M2. I picked up mating connectors from the salvage yard. These were mated to coresponding wires of 2 of the ECU connectors, engine harness connectors and the added fuse box.

I used the fuse box from the Fielder to incorperate other fuses and relays. One of the relays was made the C/Open and also used the EFI relay and fuse for the EFI system. Unused fuses, relays and associated wiring were scrapped.

I basicly used the MR2's fusebox to run some of the components intended. The Fielder's box was used to supply power to parts of the system I didnt think I could reconfigure. I was basicly trying to wire the 2ZZ as the engine would have originally been wired, basicly for OBD2 purposes.

The two systems are wired differently and being that I am no expert tried to do this in the most simple fashion for my understanding. The principles between the two systems are similar, but routing is different.

On a cpl of other notes, this being an OBD2 system, it only has one O2 sensor. I found this suprising, but I guess there are different regulations in Japan.

The Celica's pinout indicates 2 O2's where this system only has wiring for 1, which splices into the OBD2 port. I also have the Fielder's exhaust and only 1 4-wire O2 sensor came with it.

The OBD2 port will be in my trunk as opposed to under the dash.

The only thing I havent figured out how to wire up are my oil sending wire, water temp wire and the VSV for the evap. (4age sending unit tee'd into the oil pressure selinoid next to the oil filter. Coolant temp sending unit yet to be installed. I have thought about the blocks drain-cock, but unsure.) I have one plug in the new system I dont have all the pinouts for and Im sure it mates to the oil and water. (I Found this to be incorrect. This connector had wires for the charging system) Im also under the impression that the Celi evap I purchased may be different than that of the JDM version as this schematic doesnt cover that VSV. The Celi's did cover the wiring for it. This is something Ill have to work around or reconfigure once Im up and running.


I will fix and/or add info as I remember or locate it.

[canadam]

Thank you !

[Weasy2k]

Holy smokes! This must be a fun swap

[blown59]

Brief summery...

I had a hesitation issue with cam-changeover shortly after the swap. I had thought it was a fuel issue, but wasnt sure. Problem seemed to self correct as the seasons changed and temp dropped. On cooler days, changeover was great, no problems. Warmer (humid) weather and it was back...????

These results were on a Dynojet.

Mods:
-CAI
-Brad Bedell header
-My custom 2-1 collector B-Pipe
-Factory Cat with CherryBomb "turbo style" muffler
-B-pipe Collector merges to a 2.5" into the cat and 2" from cat exit back

All are SAE: 1.00 corrected, Max HP @ 7400, Max TQ @ 6800

Pull 1 - 158.64 HP 6:19pm
116.07 ft/lb
63.55 deg.
46% Humidity

Pull 2 - 158.29 HP 6:22pm
114.31 ft/lb
63.42 deg.
46% Humidity

Pull 3 - 161.35 HP 6:44pm
117.13 ft/lb
64.72 deg.
46% Humidity


I had originally thought the factory pump may have been limiting the fuel. Not the case... I'm running FAT!!! In all of the runs I was rich, down about 9 something.

The difference on the last run was the motor cooled a bit and we ran a fan for the radiator. It appears the fan also helped with the rich condition. The cooler air may have helped the air/fuel because on the last run I saw a low of about 10.5.

Im thinking if I can get my air/fuel into the 13.5-14.5 area I should be putting down about 169-173 HP. Time to fix some A/F ratios.

Im not sure if its the 4age's fuel pump combined with the 2ZZ's pressure regulator making for the wrong combo of parts. Should try the other pump. Or if its the cold air intake that the computer is over compensating for. It seems as if it hesitates more on hot days and not at all on the cooler days.

Im thinking this could also be due in part to a faulty O2 sensor. The one that came with 2ZZ's downpipe was slightly damaged, though I still used it. It could be that the O2 isnt properly reading the signal.

**It is my understanding that the O2 only monitors in closed loop. I also understand that when under W.O.T. the system goes into open loop, at which time the computer just dumps fuel. ...so this may not be my issue. I have considered using an Apex'i VAFC-II piggy-back to help lean it out. Some ppl say that the piggy-back will be over ridden by the factory ECU. I understand this as true, when in the closed loop. But, when under open throttle, your in open loop... At this time the piggy-back will kick in and run your engine at the parameters which you have set. Now some of this is just my theory, but really would like to try and correctly resolve the issue before going piggy-back.

Links to pics can also be found in my signature.

[CpuZapper]

13.5-14.5 is also a bit lean. That's on the rich side of cruise. For power, the best is supposedly around 12.5. I tune my turbos on MegaSquirt for about 11-12 in the WOT/Open Loop areas just to be conservative in the event of the unexpected temp chance, humidity, etc.

[Luni]

Tuning an NA and a turbo for power is a different thing all together.

Celica tuners over at newcelica.org say 12.7-13.5 is where they tune for in lift. Its crazy whats lean on a turbo car vs whats lean on an NA car.

Also the heisistation between 6000 and 6200 rpm you feel sometimes is normal. Its the first cam falling on its face. You feel it more in higher gears. Dont be afraid to drop a gear or 2 to find the powerband in this motor. Its tought to find it at first and not think youre guilty of beating it, but you have to.

Also, everyone looking to do this please remember if its a pre03 engine to replace the lift bolts in it. Its way easy to do with the engine out of the car. Source a new PCV to valvecover gasket, a new valvecover gasket, and the 2 lift bolts.

And a powerfc on this engine is a very incredible mod. Worth every penny on the 2zz.

[Weasy2k]

ehhe people tune there cars to 16:1 on low load as for on load it really depend son how the motor takes it really 12.5 - 13.5 is a good range to be in depending on the airflow and the load (temp is a factor in all tuning)

I was always told this engine would not be a good one for the MKI as its too heavy (the MKI) i never believed it!

[Kimchi604]

i so wanted this in a 1985 mk1 hardtop, with some weight reduction
make it into a cheap man's elise
doooo it!

[blown59]

Your all welcome for this bit of info. And thanks for the a/f info. Im gonna check into a few of these things and see what happens. If I can get it corrected w/out the piggy-back that'd be great. Then i'll look into the piggy-back... or maybe a FC???

[mr220v]

A few other things that might help the swap process:

-use a spyder transmission and simply swap over your selector shaft, linkages, etc... This should allow you to use the original aw11 axles (I use a c59 from a 1zz corolla with my 20v, and the axles fit)

-If you don't want to drop the tank, there is an out of tank pressure regulator available from a later avalon. Hook your main fuel lines to the 2zz and filter, and hook the blow off line to the fuel return.

-Unless you live in california, you may be able to ignore the evap system, though you will have a code.

I still want to do one of these, but right now, i've opted for a beams swap into my mk2. Its just as well seeing as how 2zz's are still pretty expensive.

BTW, how does your neighbor like his 20v? Not as quick as the 2zz i'm sure.

[Weasy2k]

Originally Posted by blown59

Your all welcome for this bit of info. And thanks for the a/f info. Im gonna check into a few of these things and see what happens. If I can get it corrected w/out the piggy-back that'd be great. Then i'll look into the piggy-back... or maybe a FC???

The FC is a very popular unit thats for sure!
If you wanted to get the hydra ems you can let me know i can hook you up

Do you plan to upgrade anything in the future?

[blown59]

Originally Posted by mr220v

-If you don't want to drop the tank, there is an out of tank pressure regulator available from a later avalon. Hook your main fuel lines to the 2zz and filter, and hook the blow off line to the fuel return.

-Unless you live in california, you may be able to ignore the evap system, though you will have a code.

True, these are other options. I preferred to run my fpr in tank to keep a factory type setup. mr220v is right though, it can be run differently for ease.

Yes, the evap will throw a code if not installed propery. This is something that is a bit tricky. The JDM have a different evap system than the US. Ours have a VSV to switch between 2 different tanks on the canister. JDM do not. I still have my USDM charcoal canister installed, but getting ready to remove it. Im probably going back to the stock '86 AW11 canister this Spring... dunno yet though. Its a much simpler configuration. I will eliminate alot of "unessessary junk" I installed, which I now dont need.

Originally Posted by mr220v

BTW, how does your neighbor like his 20v? Not as quick as the 2zz i'm sure.

He likes it, but yeah... already bored with it, something about not fast enough You would really be suprised how much faster the 2zz is. We just havent gotten to a track to make an official call on it yet. But I assure you, we will

[blown59]

Originally Posted by Weasy2k

Do you plan to upgrade anything in the future?

Heck I dont even have 3500 Miles on the swap so.... It will stay this way for awhile other than cleaning up my a/f ratio, as I want in the 170-175ish RWHP area. In that ballpark area will satisfy me for the meantime as it is where I wanted to be to begin with. I may have figured a bit high, but dont really think so. I should be able to pull at least 169-173ish which is close enough for me.

Just thoughts for the future-

I have thought about the FC, but really didnt want to go that route to spend on a dyno tune. A waste of money in my opinion, especially since im never satisfied anywho. I have thought about a supercharged set-up, at which time I will consider going stand alone. This way I dont pay for tuning time twice.

[Luni]

Please dont put a 2zz on a 5 speed.

Youll not be near as quick as you would on a 6 speed. Youd never fall into lift between shifts.

[Brad Bedell]

Originally Posted by Luni

Please dont put a 2zz on a 5 speed.

Youll not be near as quick as you would on a 6 speed. Youd never fall into lift between shifts.

Unless you extend the rev limiter and turbo charge it. Then, the 5 speed is quite a bit better suited.

-B

[Weasy2k]

Originally Posted by blown59

Heck I dont even have 3500 Miles on the swap so.... It will stay this way for awhile other than cleaning up my a/f ratio, as I want in the 170-175ish RWHP area. In that ballpark area will satisfy me for the meantime as it is where I wanted to be to begin with. I may have figured a bit high, but dont really think so. I should be able to pull at least 169-173ish which is close enough for me.

Just thoughts for the future-

I have thought about the FC, but really didnt want to go that route to spend on a dyno tune. A waste of money in my opinion, especially since im never satisfied anywho. I have thought about a supercharged set-up, at which time I will consider going stand alone. This way I dont pay for tuning time twice.

There is that high comp trd kit Thats something i would do (without the whole trd thing :P) i really like that engine..maybe something to consider for my 89

[Luni]

Originally Posted by Brad Bedell

Unless you extend the rev limiter and turbo charge it. Then, the 5 speed is quite a bit better suited.

-B

True Brad, but from what Ive read, theyve still made more power under boost on a 1zz than they have on a 2zz. At least thats what Ive seen from looking on newcelica.org and spyderchat.

[mr220v]

There is probably more willingness to blow up a $500 1zz than a $2000 2zz.


I guess the lift point would be an issue. You could use an rpm activated switch to have it come on a little bit sooner. I'm sure somebody has tried this, wonder what the outcome was?

[blown59]

Originally Posted by Weasy2k

There is that high comp trd kit Thats something i would do (without the whole trd thing :P) i really like that engine..maybe something to consider for my 89

You know I forgot all about that... Right now its running 11.5 to 1 compression, I believe the TRD kits are 12.5 or 13 to 1. I wonder what it would do as far as a boost in HP.

I believe Monkey Wrench Racing has a high comp piston too. IIRC, they come with new sleeves as well. I just have heard mixed reviews on adding sleeves to this engine. Apparently the coating they use on the cylinder walls is pretty good. I've heard that sleeving is a bad idea.

[Weasy2k]

look up the complete trd kit and it has a hp curve and stuff...