"Toybusa"

[chicagoisonfire]

but how cool would it be to have a 400hp 2.3L Mk1 that revs to 12.5....... you'd be unstoppable

[LordNikon]

Originally Posted by kbrew8991

I'd be concerned about the strength of the motorcycle transmission (or finding a car trans that will mate up)

There are not really any car trans that will mate up. Now I'm sure that you could prob remove the gears from the busa and make some sort of custom adapter to mate it to a trans axle, but thats way above my level.

So how strong is the busa trans...I think this says enough.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=4_GguV68gLk&feature=rel...

Originally Posted by chicagoisonfire

why stop at just 1 busa engine?
Hayabusa V8 engine - The Kneeslider

there are a couple companies that make them, RST used to drop a 2.3 liter into elises that made 420ish at the crank

There is also Hartley Enterprises. HOME PAGE...
His V8 busa's start around $25,000. So you can kinda see why I'm not going with the V8. Of course this is the perfect V8 for us MR2 owners. I mean who wouldn't want 400hp, 245ft/lb and only weighs 200lbs. Oh yeah and did I mention it redlines at 10,000 RPM's. Of course I figure if I had the money to spend on that kind of motor, I would buy 2 of them and make a V16 that would still fit under the hood of my Scout.

Originally Posted by phzoinkMKII

This sounds like a fun project. I'm looking forward to the start of it and thie finished product.

Yeah you and me both. I just put my truck up for sale the other day so I gotta give it some time for everything to pan out. In the mean time I'll continue to make contacts and try to track down sources for parts.

[phzoinkMKII]

Keep us posted on the progress because this is going to be one of the coolest builds out there.

[blown59]

The 4AGE is approximately 278lbs and the C-52 is approximately 70-71lbs... This is a grand total of approximately 348lbs.

I highly doubt you have your car down to 2000lb considering your weight guesstimates at this point and your surely not saving 600lbs in engine swaps. Unless you've taken your car to the point where it's unsafe for the streets, by removing certain glass, bumpers, crash protection devices amongst other things... I'd guesstimate your probably weighing in somewhere in the 2250 region. This considering some minor removal of insulation and maybe the a/c compressor and associated plumbing. I dont know whether you have a fully loaded/stripper model or t-top/sunroof/hardtop, but Im just making a generalistic edumacated guess on the low side weighing in your favor.

Now if you could get down around the 1900-2000 lb weight, loosing all streetability, I would think it might stand a chance of being alright. It would still need to be alot lighter to receive any real benefit.

Again, consider the much heavier weight and what gearbox/axles you select as the weight is still on the high side for any motorcyle application. Consider what the cargo limit is on a 450lb bike... Im not sure, but I would suspect it be no more than 300-400lb of cargo. This gives you a limit of about 750-850 lb. Your looking at moving an object about 3x the weight. Not something I would want to try pushing w/ the engine. The load is an important factor.

Its your money, your car and your time.... Research everything extensively, dont guesstimate.

Just adding my

Good luck to you in your endeavours, I commend your eagerness to try.

[LordNikon]

Regaurdless of how far off I was on the originial estimate, if a 1300lb "curb weight" sandrail can run wheelies up a sand dune I think I'll be alright. I started with a bottom line basic "88 NA, so my curb weight should have been right around 2300. The car had already been stripped quite abit when I got it. The previous owener (who does a pretty good amount of raceing) said he dropped around 200lbs off of her and I personaly dropped another 100lbs. Now I have yet to take her down to the cat scales, but If I'm not under 2000lbs I'm damn close.
Now subtract the 348lbs, add approx 170 "hayabusa motor and reverse diff" for a total loss of 178.

Was the 348lbs a fully assembled engine/tranny? I'm going to assume that is with alt, starter, etc already mounted to the engine/tranny. But It doens't include the coolent system. I'm going to fab. a rear mounted coolent system. My rear window is comming out and being replaced with fiberglass to create duct work for the roof scoops. The new rad and eventualy intercooler will be mounted just behind the back window. So all the MR2 factory coolent system will be removed and takeing into account that water weights no less than 7.5lbs per gallon, and most of the factory system is metal, that will be a substantial amount of weight.
So now that I'll be running a smaller more efficient engine that produces more hp and torque at the wheels than the 4age, on a car that weights far less than the stock MR2. I'll be able to down grade the fuel system. The stock tank is 10.8gal "steel tank". The replacement tanks I'm looking at are aluminum and 5-8gal. I think I could easily come close to 1600lbs curb weight.

Talk has already started about fabricating new body panels out of fiberglass or carbon fiber. As well and replaceing the box tube portion of the frame with lighter tube stock.

Oh yeah good news by the way. I got my MR2 up and running on her stock motor again. Turns out I had multiple problems. The alt was bad, as was the batt-starter cable.

[conor]

Cool idea, bu here's where I think you're going wrong..

While those peak numbers look awesome.. how long is it going to take the motorcycle engine to push a car up that high? It doesn't make squat for torque until you're revving the snot out of it.

I guess if it's for a stripped-out race car.. go for it!

[LordNikon]

Originally Posted by mr220v

Anyway, there is an aw11 swapped with a ZX11 motor on one of the European mr2 sites. The results were pretty decent.

You wouldn't by chance have a link to that site would you?

[LordNikon]

I finally looked up the stock specs on the smart car. Now I know I'm putting a "busa" motor in my MR2. Look at the stock weight. 1808lbs!!

This link is for the stock specs of the smart car.
smart fortwo pure, passion, and passion cabriolet

YouTube - Ferrari vs Smart car

[LordNikon]

Originally Posted by conor

Cool idea, bu here's where I think you're going wrong..

While those peak numbers look awesome.. how long is it going to take the motorcycle engine to push a car up that high? It doesn't make squat for torque until you're revving the snot out of it.

I guess if it's for a stripped-out race car.. go for it!

The busa is putting out 99ft/lbs at 7000rpms where as the 4age is putting down 85-87ft/lbs at around 5400.
I found this dyno chart for a busa. I think it had an after market exhaust, but not to far from stock. You'll notice that at around 5500rpms it's sitting around the 85ft/lbs mark.
http://www.twobros.com/Cust_Service/...ength-cans.pdf

[LokiRx7]

Originally Posted by LordNikon

The busa is putting out 99ft/lbs at 7000rpms where as the 4age is putting down 85-87ft/lbs at around 5400.
I found this dyno chart for a busa. I think it had an after market exhaust, but not to far from stock. You'll notice that at around 5500rpms it's sitting around the 85ft/lbs mark.
http://www.twobros.com/Cust_Service/...ength-cans.pdfhttp://www.twobros.com/Cust_Service/...ength-cans.pdf

The 4age in my car makes peak torque slightly before 4700 rpm

Just to drive around town you'll be shifting near 5K or more....... This is an all around, not worth it idea. The busa engine also wont last as long in a car chassis, it wasnt designed with any of this in mind (pushing a 2200 lb. car everyday) So your adding stress that will shorten its life, hard to tell by how much. So if you intend to make a daily driver this is a terrible idea, if your making this a track car on the otherhand I may understand better.

Also, the previous owner told you he dropped 200 lbs. off... And you beleived him? Had he weighed the car, before and after he stripped whatever he did? Because otherwise he didnt have a clue. The butt dyno and the guesstimascale are about equally accurate. Do you have any idea how much come off of an MR2 to shave 200, much less 300 lbs? Please enlighten me as to everything you, and the previous owner have done to lighten your car. And also while you at the scales, if you go, take a picture of your car on the scale, and snap a pic of the weight you are given. That way if it indeed weighs around a ton even, you will have proof, I am still very skeptical.

[LordNikon]

As soon as I get a new rear hub to get it out of the shop, I plan on taking it to the truck stop to use their cat scales and I will post the print out. I know for a fact that I have dropped a min of 100lbs off the car myself. I wieghted the parts that came off, and added them all together for a total of 90 something pounds. I didn't weigh all the random bits of metal and tubing that came off, so. "bits of metal" include, frame work of the hood and engine compartment lid, trunk lid, I also cut out a good portion of the frame work on the doors. I also trimmed other random mounting tabs and things like that, that were no longer being used by anything. tubing being all the tubing from the ac. the complete ac system has been removed, to include the mounting bracket for the ac compressor. The compressor and mounting bracket alone was 25lbs. Pretty much all the interior has been ripped out except the seats, gauge cluster, and steering wheel. I still need to replace the seats with much lighter ones. The bumper supports have been removed and new lighter ones are being fabricated. And here comes all the "your makeing your car unsafe....blah blah blah" Remember it's my car and I will modify it how ever I wish. So go ahead and make your comments. Just before you start make sure you read everything I said, you may have missed something. So anyways I hope everyone is haveing a wonderful day.

[LokiRx7]

Originally Posted by LordNikon

As soon as I get a new rear hub to get it out of the shop, I plan on taking it to the truck stop to use their cat scales and I will post the print out. I know for a fact that I have dropped a min of 100lbs off the car myself. I wieghted the parts that came off, and added them all together for a total of 90 something pounds. I didn't weigh all the random bits of metal and tubing that came off, so. "bits of metal" include, frame work of the hood and engine compartment lid, trunk lid, I also cut out a good portion of the frame work on the doors. I also trimmed other random mounting tabs and things like that, that were no longer being used by anything. tubing being all the tubing from the ac. the complete ac system has been removed, to include the mounting bracket for the ac compressor. The compressor and mounting bracket alone was 25lbs. Pretty much all the interior has been ripped out except the seats, gauge cluster, and steering wheel. I still need to replace the seats with much lighter ones. The bumper supports have been removed and new lighter ones are being fabricated. And here comes all the "your makeing your car unsafe....blah blah blah" Remember it's my car and I will modify it how ever I wish. So go ahead and make your comments. Just before you start make sure you read everything I said, you may have missed something. So anyways I hope everyone is haveing a wonderful day.

Safety = Blah blah blah

Youth and inexperience talking....

Is this car your daily driver? I truely hope not, because you obviously dont understand the ramifications of your actions. And if you feel the need to argue that point, you are further displaying your outright ignorance of the situation.

"Safety is for losers! Ha I'll never get in an accident!"

Even if it isnt a road car the SCCA has safety inspections, and depending on the class you expect to run in your modifications may make you expempt.

[LordNikon]

Let me quote myself.

Originally Posted by LordNikon

The bumper supports have been removed and new lighter ones are being fabricated.

As I said before read everything I say before makeing comments you may have missed something. And by the way have you ever seen the front end of a street legal dune buggy? Not just buggies for that matter there are a number kit cars that also have pretty much no front bumper. In any case I have been several accidents in the last 12 yrs, so it's not a matter of the "it won't happen to me" attitude. IMHO it's a matter of when will it happen again. It's not really Safety= blah blah blah. That's more of a reference to the fact that people would see that I took the stock bumper supports off the car, and that's all the farther they would read.

[LokiRx7]

Dune Buggies are a full tubular frame chassis, the chassis itself is protection, it is essentially a roll cage. It does not need a bumper, you cant compare tube frames to uni-bodies.


Here is what I think, you need to stop chopping up your MR2. You seem to have researched dune buggies alot, build yourself one. It will end up lighter and faster than anything you may be hoping to accomplish with your MR2. And it will probably end up cheaper in the long run.

Then keep your MR2 for a nice street cruiser, 10 years down the road you'll thank yourself trust me.

[supermr2]

This was a car that suzuki built(prototype) that used roughly 75 percent of off the shelf parts. Had a curb weight of around 1300 lbs.

[jazzcornet]

subscribed!

[LordNikon]

I'm sorry I may not have mentioned in this thread that I am having a cage fabricated by a guy I know that builds race cars. I also plan on sitting down with him to see what we can do to change the stock square tube frame bits of the car over to lighter round tube structure.

As far as building a buggy instead building a one off MR2, there really is no comparison. Yes a buggy would surely end up lighter, but not really that much faster. And as it may seem that I have done alot of research on buggies, it was never done for buggies as a whole just how they put the busa motors in their cars and differential setups. Besides where would the challenge be in doing something many people have already done. This is just too much fun just planning it, and I can't wait to really get started. Besides if I quit now I would be a failure without trying. And that may be ok with you, but it's not for me. If I were to build a buggy I guess I would have to hack up an MR2 to make body panels to make the buggy look like my MKI.

Here is another reference site that just makes me want to do the swap.
zcars.org.uk

Hmmm.... stop chopping up my MR2, and keep it a nice street cruiser? Well as soon as she comes back from the shop I'll shoot some pics and you can see how nice of a street crusier she is. Now you have to remember that when I post these pics that she is in better condition than when I got her. It will make you sad.

[LordNikon]

Alright, so I got her back the other day so I plan on takeing several pics tommorow so you can see what a "nice street cruiser" she is. I will also be putting her on the scale soon to see where we sit as of now. In the mean time I may strip some more parts out. I'm also going to start working on some fiberglass underbody panels so I can get closer to cutting out the frunk, and part of the trunk space. I'll have to leave the fire wall that the ECU is mounted to for now, but once the swap starts that's comming out too. Ok so I'll do my best to remember the pics tommorow.

[LordNikon]

So here's some pics of my "nice street crusier"

[LordNikon]

I just found this...it seems that even suzuki wants they Hayabusa in cars. Granted this car is far lighter than I will be but still...ITS A RACE CAR WITH A HYAYBUSA ENGINE! Sorry I got a little excited.

ZUKIWORLD online

yet another suzuki hayabua concept
COMPANY PROFILE - HAYABUSA Proto Type

I have to say this is pretty cool.

You Tube