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Engine Swaps The place to be if you have a 20v, V6, MK 1.5, etc. All info related the MK1 (AW11) Toyota MR2s with engine swaps.

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Old 07-13-2008, 01:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Easiest and cheapest swap besides same engine...?

The reason is this: I want something easy and cheap so I can really pump up
this engine or the swap engine without spending most of the dough on a swap.

I HAVE: A 1987 sunroof and it appears to have...
silver valve cover and black lettering???
MAF sensor (I'm sure on this one)

I believe this makes it the 87.5 or more desirable version.

The big Q is this, is there a larger displacement 4 cylinder that is a near bolt-in?
What is needed for the 3s engines? (links or the quick and dirty version, please!)
Planning on an NA swap initially.
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Old 07-17-2008, 02:03 AM   #2 (permalink)
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What i've read about, and plan on doing myself, is a 7AGE conversion. It requires the use of a 7AFE shortblock, flywheel and clutch, the 4AGE head, lower timing pulley, and pistons, and throw in a 944 timing belt for good measure. The benefit? more low end torque, reportedly as much as 20-25 ft-lbs. The downside? The longer rods of a 7AFE require a bit more restraint at top end- I got the impression that people usually limit themselves to a 6500-ish redline. The engine is found in the 93-98 Corolla, I believe.

If anyone else has corrections to my info, please post it, as I'm not sure about everything here.
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Old 07-17-2008, 07:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The 7A rods are fine up to about 7200 rpm. Anything past 7500 will shortly spell disaster. But it doesnt matter because by about 6K you will have made all the power the engine will make, and should be looking for the next gear before 6500 anyway.
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Old 07-20-2008, 05:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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This would be OK especially as a stock 7A-FE for the short term...
do the mounts and wiring harness match up worth a darn?
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Old 07-20-2008, 05:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSkool View Post
This would be OK especially as a stock 7A-FE for the short term...
do the mounts and wiring harness match up worth a darn?
The 7A-FE sensors and electrical connectors are all different. All the water outlets are wrong on the 7A-FE head. The mounts are the same. If you are going to the trouble to consider a 7A-GE you should do it right the first time.
It isnt worth your time to swap in a 7A-FE, besides itll be easier to do the conversion with the 7A out of the car.
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Old 07-20-2008, 06:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It's looking like I have a first gen. 4A-GE 3 rib model, so I'll
probably just seek a 2nd gen. 4A-GE and build that to the hilt
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Old 07-30-2008, 02:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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black top or silver top cheap and easy no mounts modification and the engine sound cool with the 5 valves per cylinder. :-)
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Old 07-30-2008, 11:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Easiest- swap in a supercharged 4age

Second easiest - 20v 4age
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Old 07-30-2008, 02:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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20v might be easier in an 85-86 depending on if you get a gze body harness or not.

In any event, 20v's are cheaper than gze's.
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Old 08-12-2008, 08:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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5s swap, it may not be the easiest but is the cheapest (besides the 4A motor)
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Old 08-13-2008, 10:04 AM   #11 (permalink)
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^Nah, the cheapest swap would be the 5afe. 1.5L and an FE head. $100 at the pullapart, and you don't have to spend money on that expensive welding rod.
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Old 08-13-2008, 12:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Meh, screw the 5A-FE lets just run out and get a used Briggs and Stratton 6 horse. I can pick one up for $20, and I can make mounts for under $50 if anyones interested.

Although youll need to rip the trans out and weld a steel beam between the hubs with a sprocket on it, we'll be using a chain drive....

Itll be close, but with some spray you might edge out those 5A-FE's....
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