4AGE to 4AGZE Swap Questions

[stu4u3]

I've read up through the engine swap forums but I wanted to see all this info in one place. I have basic mechanic skills but I've never swapped an engine before.

My '89 MR2 has a 4AGE engine that is unknown condition. It sat outside some dudes house for 5 years and he never started it within that time period. I'm thinking of buying something like this:

86-90 JDM 4A-GZE AW11 MR2 SUPERCHARGED ENGINE, 5SPD TRANSMISSION 86 87 88 89 90 JDM TOYOTA 4AGZE 4AG-ZE SUPERCHARGED ENGINE+TRANSMISSION [4AGZE] - $1,100.00 : got-jdm.com, JDM Imported Engines, Performance Auto Parts at Wholesale Prices


Here are my questions:

1. Is this JDM 4AGZE a direct fit into the engine bay?
2. Assuming the harness isn't cut on the 4AGZE, is it plug and play in to my car?
3. Is there anything I need to modify with the clutch or trans the 4AGZE comes with?
4. Will my existing axles/CVs work with the 4AGZE?
5. Besides a SC trunk lid, what else am I missing?


Thanks in advance.

[midnight372]

ive been doing alot of reading up on this as ill be doing it this summer, and this is what i have read about

1. its a direct fit
2. it should be just a plug and play with the eception of the 2 supercharger wires (for the light/ fuel selection) since its a 87+
3. u can use the stock 4age trans (which most people tend to do since it lighter the the 4agze trans) it will bolt up and u get to use your old axles along with the flywheel/clutch.
4.see above answer if using stock trans or if using the 4agze trans you will have to get those axels
5. cant really think of anything right now

[Timon]

Don't forget the SC lid so you can fit the intercooler in the engine bay, unless you want to try to run it elsewhere.

[328FTW]

I ran my intercooler under the n/a lid with some of the ribbing cut off as well as my own brackets for the intercooler. Airflow is not as good but you could always make your own little scoop/vent things. If I remember right if you run the horribly contorted stock sc intake pipes there is no hole in the rear boot wall for the intake tube to go through but you don't want to run that setup anyway it is horrible.

One thing you will probably want is the 4agze fuel pump as it flows more fuel for the increased consumption so add that too the list of things to look for.

[stu4u3]

So my stock trans will work? Will it be able to handle the power increase?

Also, the engine I found (see link above), is that a good deal, so-so price or over priced? Thanks for all your help everyone.

[midnight372]

with all the stuff included thats not to bad of a price.. thats what most of them are gonna cost you to get from places like that.. the only cheaper way is to find someone locally selling one.

and the stock trans with work, as far as power increase it should be able to handle it as long as your not doing alot of like 5-6k launches.

[M-r2d2]

I would do the 4agze w/ DLI from a toyota levin 92-94 I think
the wiring will have to be done Its like $500 depending on who dose it

the only problems I have had is that the intercooler sits right on top of the engine so I'm doing a water 2 air intercooler. The parts for the ignition and coils aren't really available over here but can be ordered at the extra expense. had to buy an ignitor for $200

the dli engine will cost more but will be newer, and more tunable do to DLI and you have higher comp. and more HP 165 vs 145 mine cost me $1735 to my door from Canada to Texas.
jason

[stu4u3]

Originally Posted by M-r2d2

I would do the 4agze w/ DLI from a toyota levin 92-94 I think
the wiring will have to be done Its like $500 depending on who dose it

the only problems I have had is that the intercooler sits right on top of the engine so I'm doing a water 2 air intercooler. The parts for the ignition and coils aren't really available over here but can be ordered at the extra expense. had to buy an ignitor for $200

the dli engine will cost more but will be newer, and more tunable do to DLI and you have higher comp. and more HP 165 vs 145 mine cost me $1735 to my door from Canada to Texas.
jason

Hi. Do you have any pics you can send me? Thanks.

[toyotaspeed90]

well the link was taking a long time to load..... so I stopped.

$1100 is good if it includes shipping and an uncut harness with ecu..... otherwise, it isn't a good deal.... I can still get JDM motors with trans (with cut harness/no ecu) for around $900 shipped.... I picked mine up long ago for $700 shipped in a group buy....

the coilpacks are identical to a 7agte supra -- easy to find.

ignitors generally are the same as something else over here and you just need to scour the junkyards.

I'm running my ae92 motor (has ae101 components... IE s/c, etc) with the stock top mount and a fan mounted on the engine lid (yes, hole cut in the lid) on Megasquirt... using a C52 transmission (basically stock aw11) from an ae92 and it seemed to hold up just fine on race rubber at an auto-x last weekend.



the engine bay lid with a fan is not pictured here

[M-r2d2]

I don't have any good pics and I blew my head gasket.
the fan i was using crapped out so it over heated about 3/4 of the gauge. it started idling weird a few days later and then the oil was milky my uncle said to check the oil cooler first though.

[sbagdon]

Originally Posted by stu4u3

1. Is this JDM 4AGZE a direct fit into the engine bay?

Unless the block seriously changed on the late JDMs, an A-series is an A-series. Swap over the single block-mount (the other three are tranny mounts!) from the donor-body, and it should line up just perfect between the engine and body.

Originally Posted by stu4u3

2. Assuming the harness isn't cut on the 4AGZE, is it plug and play in to my car?

At least for all 5 years of the Mk I, the wiring harness of any (yes, any!) year/engine combo will bolt to any year body, from the driver's left-foot back. That includes a USDM SC to an '85. I've never taken apart a JDM full-clip, yet if you treat from the US driver's foot back as a module, it all bolts up (fuel pump and sender don't go through the trunk, they go through the dash), and will turn over on the first try. I have no idea if the USDM "driver's left food" equates to a JDM "driver's right foot" or "pax left foot".

Originally Posted by stu4u3

3. Is there anything I need to modify with the clutch or trans the 4AGZE comes with?

Again, unless things seriously changed, A-blocks are A-blocks. The trans, pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel are a package... just bolt whatever you want, to the A-series crank.

Originally Posted by stu4u3

4. Will my existing axles/CVs work with the 4AGZE?

Axles/CVs have nothing to do with the engine, they go with the trans. What trans are you using (or do you want to use)?

Originally Posted by stu4u3

5. Besides a SC trunk lid, what else am I missing?

Not much, as long as you have the clip, or all of the electronics. Depends if you want to use the US intercooler or not. If so, you'll need the SC auto or manual battery tray, or the NA '87+ auto battery tray (that's what the NA intercooler bolts to).

[espguitarist33]

so sbagdon...
If i buy a motorswap WITH ECU for my 1985 mkI...your saying the chassis harness should bolt up to the agze ECU?

[toyotaspeed90]

it's not going to work, they are NOT the same..... he is giving you bad information.

in 85/86 the engine wiring came from the trunk to the engine bay on the passenger side over the alternator.... in the 87-89's the wiring came out more in the middle, above the transmission. The body harnesses, however, are typically pretty close.

also... most gze's that you'll find nowadays are NOT from an MR2.... in Japan the corolla's came with the same motors, where the harnesses are completely different. Even if you have a complete uncut harness, it will in no way shape or form just plug in. AE92/AE101 "molex" plugs are completely different than the aw11's.

[M-r2d2]

yeah the cost gets up there. you have to make sure you have an ignitor it cost me an extra $200 for that, and the tach won't work unless you get a converter. the wiring alone cost me close to $800 that's with the converter and ingnitor though. I had to wire the ignitor up and Phoenix tuning helped over the phone for that and you need the injector resistor that is already on your car it should be bolted to the battery try. looks like a little amp. you have to wire that up to unless you send it in.

[weapon5]

Sorry but that site say 24v but isn't the 4agze 16v. I wouldn't trust a site that don't know what they are saying. quote me if I am wrong.

[traintech86]

Originally Posted by weapon5

Sorry but that site say 24v but isn't the 4agze 16v. I wouldn't trust a site that don't know what they are saying. quote me if I am wrong.

i noticed that and was unsure too. i'd contact them and ask about that one. it doesn't take a genius to figure out how many valves it should have, especialy with the internet...

if you do find a good source post because i might be doin this swap in the next year or so. ty

[jsnod25]

shouldnt a 24v be a 6-cyl? 4 valves per cyl, if its a 4 cyl, then that means it would be 6 valves per cyl, and that doesnt sound right for that engine... but im not a pro, ive just never seen that configuration.

[mr3]

My engine has 5 per cylender.

[traintech86]

Originally Posted by mr3

My engine has 5 per cylender.

yes the 20v

[mr3]

The guy who posted before me assumed that there are only 4 valves per cyl. I just thought I'd throw that up there.