old mr2

[birdlover2008]

I just got a 1989 mr2 non s/c. It runs and drived fine, no wierd engine noises, but it has over 200,000 miles on it. I am thinking about rebuilding the motor with some performance add ons. I was shooting for 200-250 horse. What is the best way to get those numbers for a decent price?

[2restomod]

Swap in a V6? I'm swapping in a SC 4agze motor with cams and header and won't come anywhere near 200 horses. Not sure what the top end on a turbocharged car would be though I think you'd still be short of 200 h.p.

[Papo J]

NA you'll never see anything past maybe 130 whp and that will be very expensive, if it runs fine leave the engine alone and focus on making it handle better and making it lighter. A full GZE swap will be much cheaper and more reliable than trying to build a high power NA motor and much more reliable. Once you swap a GZE powertrain and electronics you can turbo that and coulp possibly make around 200-225.

[curvesrgood]

Yeah, I'm running a 4agze fairly well modified (14 lbs. boost) and I'm sure I'm still good bit shy of 200... but there isn't a prayer of getting that kind of power out of a 4age without spending Crazy Big money. I'm not sure dumping $6-10K into the motor would get you even remotely close to what you're talking about honestly. You'd really need a formula atlantic racing series built 4age for that horsepower, and that is not a street friendly motor, nor is it remotely affordable. If you want N/A power, swap in the 20 valve blacktop (more horsepower and torque over stock, but fewer upgrade parts available, especially in the US)... or just mess with the suspension as was mentioned before and really learn to drive this car to its limits with the engine you've got. Once you REALLY learn the car well you shouldn't have any trouble pushing the car to its limits with the motor that is in there now. My Supercharged car has enough throttle to break loose mid turn and spin me if I push it super hard through a turn... the N/A will run to the ragged edge and not break free though. If you really want more power, buy another car made to go in a straight line or get a mk2 turbo (or swap in a mk2 turbo motor)... or get adventuresome and cram a v6 back there in the mk1.

I love my 4agze, for what its worth... I came from a 463rwhp 472rwtq Corvette LPE Grand Sport to my 88 N/A car and wasn't dissapointed at all once I learned how to drive the car properly. When I bought the S/C car summer before last, I knew I had found my dream car... much more fun than that 396 supercharged Vette was, and sooooooooo much more reliable!!! Oh, and it is more comfortable and gets about 10 more MPG even with me driving the car pretty hard. My S/C car is really quick for what it is... but the N/A isn't too much slower and there is nothing that sounds quite like a 4age running at 7,000 RPM's... mmmm. If you want to really wake up that 4age that is in there now, get a high flow muffler and match that with a conical K&N filter (or similar) and you'll notice a fairly nice change. My 88 N/A really woke up when I did those two things and added a better coil. Runs like a champ and I've had zero problems out of the car since I had the timing belt changed when I first got the car. If you do much more than that... you'll most likely want to go into the bottom end to replace bearings and such. When I rebuild my 4age I have a race-prepped head already waiting with a 3-angle valve job I'll be matching up with a set of cams, cam gears, a header and maybe a few other small things. I'm hopeing for 4agze type numbers from that build, but we'll see. I'm anxious to see how much the head will do for me horsepower wise. Best of luck with whatever you decide to do... I like the 89's .

[2restomod]

Originally Posted by curvesrgood

...

I love my 4agze, for what its worth... I came from a 463rwhp 472rwtq Corvette LPE Grand Sport to my 88 N/A car and wasn't dissapointed at all once I learned how to drive the car properly. When I bought the S/C car summer before last, I knew I had found my dream car... much more fun than that 396 supercharged Vette was, and sooooooooo much more reliable!!! Oh, and it is more comfortable and gets about 10 more MPG even with me driving the car pretty hard......

Wow, that's high praise! And here I was saving for a sc corvette I agree. And if you ever get the chance to take the car (n/a or s/c) on a real race course you'll really be hooked.

[curvesrgood]

Originally Posted by 2restomod

Wow, that's high praise! And here I was saving for a sc corvette I agree. And if you ever get the chance to take the car (n/a or s/c) on a real race course you'll really be hooked.

Yeah, I totally fell in love with these little things. The horsepower in the C4 vette was great fun, but the car was only really good in a straight line and my word, finding a place where you could actually stay in the throttle more than a couple seconds was almost impossible (empty/newly opened interstate was my friend back then). It never came anywhere near getting spanked by another car... only full size crotch rockets gave it a serious run on the interstate and I never had one that could pull me... actually I ran one fella down on what I'm pretty sure was a Ducatti 996. He looked over at me and punched it... I laid into it too and he starts dropping back past my window and on behind the car... fell in behind me and hunkered down as low as he could on his bike, and kept on falling back . If you ever want to do that, buy a supercharged vette, otherwise I like the mr2's . Oh, and the other two things it would do that no other car I've owned would do... the force placed on your body under full acceleration in 3rd and 4th would push the blood out of your feet and out of your hands, back up into your body... and it would top out rediculously close to 200mph (and that was because I got out of the throttle when my speedometer spotter told me the speed we had just hit). Those old C4 digital speedometers can't anywhere near keep up when those cars have so much power, lol... it skipped between 3 and 5 mph per increase generally. I do miss it, but my word... it was like a $50,000 toy that wasn't practical and I'm too young for that!

I'm planning to take one of my 88's down to the road course an hour or so away down in SC (probably the modded S/C car). My cousin and a friend stopped in and talked with the owners and they hit it off really well. They offered to let us take the deuces out for a good rate one day, so that's on the agenda for sometime soon... maybe this summer!

P.S. Just noticed you're out in AZ where there are probably a few more open/straight roads to really let one rip... that's a plus!

[mr2tim]

Cool, another birdlover,

Congradulations on your new toyota dude.

Looks like enuff good advice on your power needs huh?

Me, I'm gonna vote you do some suspension and brake maintenance first and get to know your new car and any hidden problems.

At 200K you are going to find some issues for sure.

Pack up the lady friend and go to a Autocross event near you.
Only then will you understand why we in the mr2Club are so nutty about this short-wheebased mid-engined roadster.

As for the big horsepower? Remember, reliability fades as horsepower increases.

Happy Motoring,

mr2tim
(mr2timTim's Parts)

[q-authority]

I think the Curvesrgood's story explains well why these cars are so great. Those that know and respect great handling cars and are familiar with the MKI MR2 know just how good it really is. Unfortunately, it is overlooked by many simply due to newer and bigger engines that are available in more modern cars. But if you want a reliable car that can safely be built up to more than respectable handing and very good power capabilities, the MKI MR2 is the car.
The N/A can achieve stock 4agze power capabilities with some not too outlandish work (oversize higher compression pistons, reasonable sized cams that won't destroy your bottom end, improved exhaust, improved air intake, and possibly a little valve and head work). Combine that with its lighter body weight and slightly better front to rear weight balance than the 4agze and you have yourself one great car.
But handling and brakes must be improved as well to keep up with the previous suggestions. a) An old MKI will definitely need new suspension bushings if you want the car to handle properly with other suspension improvements that are likely to be made. Fortunately TRD still makes their harder rubber compound bushings and I highly recommend them. There are poly bushings, but for me they are too stiff and transmit far too much vibration when all other suspension mods are done. b) new strut inserts and springs (Tokico and Koni are the most popular struts and Eibach and ST the most popular springs). c) a new/bigger front sway bar with poly bushings and clamps (ST is the main player here). d) new stock brake discs are fine (aftermarket cross drilled and/or slotted units are available, but all use other than stock materials, that despite their modifications all weigh more than the unaltered stock units, so what's up with that?!). e) improved brake pads (many to choose from, but I am very fond of Porterfield, who make a superb non-fading carbon-metallic ceramic backed pad that stops you on a dime). f) rebuild the brake calipers as they tend to gum up after only 100k or so. g) wider and lower profile tires (15" rims with a proper offset and some 195-50-15 tires for starters). h) proper front and rear alignment with slightly decreased toe-in and fully advanced front castor for better steering response.
Do all that and you will have yourself one great car. Just look at how the MKI has been penalized in the SCCA, having to run against cars that have considerably bigger engines, and you'll get an idea of its potential. Hell, they penalize it just because it has a mid engine design which results in significantly better handling by itself!
But as previously suggested, start with the suspension first and learn how to drive the car properly. If you have been driving a front engine car up to now it will take quite a bit of learning to really handle the MR2 well (only because it will be opposite many of the instincts you have developed with the front engine models, not because it is really that difficult). Even with an old engine and a properly prepared suspension you will be able take on most comers in any sort of winding road situation. I especially like to watch the wannabes fall well behind on long curving freeway onramps. The fastest can certainly catch me once the road straightens out, but anyone can buy a fast car and drive it in a straight line. It takes skill and know how to build a well handling car and drive it properly.
Once that is accomplished start on the engine performance improvements. Try the bolt on mods first since they will generally be the cheapest and easiest to add. If you want a reliable car, don't get too outlandish with radical cams and crazy headwork. When the MKI is in decent form and taken care of it is extremely reliable. Those who have claimed otherwise have started with old cars that others have mistreated previously. I have had MKI's since they first came out in '85 and absolutely love them. I do most of my own work on them and find that once something is done right, it stays done.
Good luck!

[mr2tim]

Damn nice e-mail!

I've slammed my S/C 3 inches downwards, use hydralic struts with Goodyear Sportsman Series 14"x10" wide slicks. My 3/4" diameter sway bars have adjustible linkage for pre-loading.

I learned how to drive mid-engined cars with a Fiero, and yes sir, it was a problem to re-learn to drive mid-engined after all I'm from Detroit.