GZE CUT OUT - Page 3

tksmr2 · 05-08-2009, 12:10 PM

The mystery continues

85SuperGZE · 05-08-2009, 03:29 PM

Well, today I decided I would hook up a timing light to the wires and see what happens when the cut out occurs, and lo and behold every wire I tested indicates it is not firing during the cut out, Could I/we have a bad distributor, or is it more likely the ignitor? Why would it NOT fire, if I put it to the floor I can kill the engine, but will fire right back up, if I let off it'll continue to run? What would account for them to not spark other than ig/coil, and distributor, nothing I can think of. AAGGGHHHHH!!! What ignitors can substitue for the gze one and what mods need to be done to accomadate such. I have a bunch of n/a stuff, I know they are not interchangable or are they?........Also can the knock sensor cause them to not fire? Thanks again guys. Will a age n/a distr and coil/ig run the gze?

ebouwman · 05-08-2009, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85SuperGZE

Well, today I decided I would hook up a timing light to the wires and see what happens when the cut out occurs, and lo and behold every wire I tested indicates it is not firing during the cut out, Could I/we have a bad distributor, or is it more likely the ignitor? Why would it NOT fire, if I put it to the floor I can kill the engine, but will fire right back up, if I let off it'll continue to run? What would account for them to not spark other than ig/coil, and distributor, nothing I can think of. AAGGGHHHHH!!! What ignitors can substitue for the gze one and what mods need to be done to accomadate such. I have a bunch of n/a stuff, I know they are not interchangable or are they?........Also can the knock sensor cause them to not fire? Thanks again guys. Will a age n/a distr and coil/ig run the gze?

Interesting...

If you think it's the knock sensor, then following the idea above, maybe hook up an electrical tester and see what's happening with the knock sensor during the cut out

85SuperGZE · 05-08-2009, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebouwman

Interesting...

If you think it's the knock sensor, then following the idea above, maybe hook up an electrical tester and see what's happening with the knock sensor during the cut out

Tired of it today, though I unplugged the s/c relay and it revs all the way up to the redline with no problems, I have this su****ion that it maybe in a s/c relay. I'll look into the knock sensor tomorrow along with the s/c electricals.

85SuperGZE · 05-11-2009, 04:54 PM

Today, I decided I was going to tear it apart electrically. I drove it around the block and still had the heavy cut out/bucking. I pull it into the garage and start taking the plug wires off, and when I pulled the coil wire it had all this oily substance on the coil end. I took the coil/ignitor off and all this stuff leaked out and had saturated throughout the wire leading to the dizzy, This coil is less than a month old and it doesnt even have 30 miles on it!!! So I dig out a n/a coil that I have as a back up for one of my n/a's, slap it on there and go for a spin........Guess what no more cut out or bucking, there is a slight hesitation, but I think that it is caused by the wire from coil to dizzy, I had to use a old one, since the other is saturated. I'll follow up if that truely fixed it, as I just drove around the block. Dont want to p.o. any of the old folks around me.

tksmr2 · 05-11-2009, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85SuperGZE

Today, I decided I was going to tear it apart electrically. I drove it around the block and still had the heavy cut out/bucking. I pull it into the garage and start taking the plug wires off, and when I pulled the coil wire it had all this oily substance on the coil end. I took the coil/ignitor off and all this stuff leaked out and had saturated throughout the wire leading to the dizzy, This coil is less than a month old and it doesnt even have 30 miles on it!!! So I dig out a n/a coil that I have as a back up for one of my n/a's, slap it on there and go for a spin........Guess what no more cut out or bucking, there is a slight hesitation, but I think that it is caused by the wire from coil to dizzy, I had to use a old one, since the other is saturated. I'll follow up if that truely fixed it, as I just drove around the block. Dont want to p.o. any of the old folks around me.

Oh wow.. good to hear.. I'lll check mine out.. BUt, are you sure you didn't reset the ECU? b/c this still woudn't make sense if it runs fine after the ECU is reset for a short amount of time.

85SuperGZE · 05-11-2009, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tksmr2

Oh wow.. good to hear.. I'lll check mine out..

I am still experiencing a slight hesitation on the low end of the rpm. I put new wires on, and it didnt go away. My crank pulley was wobbling terrible the other day(when I still had the problem) and I replaced it with one off a spare n/a engine I had laying around, as it had developed a hair line crack where the metal key in the crankshaft goes, the n/a one is a little smaller than the original, so maybe thats where that hesitation is coming from.

85SuperGZE · 05-11-2009, 07:16 PM

I hope that is what it is for you!! Did you have to set the timing to a diffirent time, because of your pulley mod,tksmr2? I thought I read that you had a smaller pulley, oh wait if you did its probably on the s/c, not on the crank? Is this correct.

tksmr2 · 05-11-2009, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85SuperGZE

I am still experiencing a slight hesitation on the low end of the rpm. I put new wires on, and it didnt go away. My crank pulley was wobbling terrible the other day(when I still had the problem) and I replaced it with one off a spare n/a engine I had laying around, as it had developed a hair line crack where the metal key in the crankshaft goes, the n/a one is a little smaller than the original, so maybe thats where that hesitation is coming from.

The NA crank pulley is actually going to give you lower boost than stock. I wouldn't use that.. You need to replace your crank key.. ASAP. My problem has nothing to do with my pulley mod.. and yes.. it's a NEVO crank pulley.

jgates411 · 05-11-2009, 07:34 PM

hey this might sound stupid but i had a very similar problem in a turbo car i used to own... couldnt figure it out for the life of me. I replaced the starter coil with an MSD blaster, MSD cap/rotor, and wires and never had the problem again. Kinda weird thats what fixed it on my car but it may be worth checking into for you...

85SuperGZE · 05-11-2009, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tksmr2

The NA crank pulley is actually going to give you lower boost than stock. I wouldn't use that.. You need to replace your crank key.. ASAP. My problem has nothing to do with my pulley mod.. and yes.. it's a NEVO crank pulley.

No can do, the pulley is cracked my n/a pulley is tight on there, and the key didnt look beat up at all. I was reading your old post on the "other forum" tksmr2. And I see the timing should be as it is......new pulley in the future for me then, guess I should get the nevo, expensive? As I'll probably order it tomorrow, and to be safe I'll change the key chuck in the crank, can I get that anywhere?

85SuperGZE · 05-11-2009, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tksmr2

My problem has nothing to do with my pulley mod.

Did you see if your coil was wack........

tksmr2 · 05-11-2009, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85SuperGZE

Did you see if your coil was wack........

I only pulled the coil wire off, and checked both ends. I actually replaced all my wires with new OEM ones.. My coil pack may be leaking.. but I"ll have to take it off the body to figure out if it is. But, I didn't find anything wrong yet. I have company here in a few minutes.. so my cars will have to wait another day.

tksmr2 · 05-11-2009, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85SuperGZE

No can do, the pulley is cracked my n/a pulley is tight on there, and the key didnt look beat up at all. I was reading your old post on the "other forum" tksmr2. And I see the timing should be as it is......new pulley in the future for me then, guess I should get the nevo, expensive? As I'll probably order it tomorrow, and to be safe I'll change the key chuck in the crank, can I get that anywhere?

You can't get the NEVO pulley anymore.. only used.. and it's not going to be easy to find.

There is NST pully's.. both crank and SC pulley w/o the clutch also.. look into that.

mr2tim · 05-11-2009, 07:57 PM

Wow, dude, if your crank was wobbling and the crankshaft tipped has been fractured you better be shopping for a new crankshaft pronto. If your going to still use the crankshaft be sure the "new" pulley is pristine as well as a brank "new" OEM key..

When my S/C spun the HKS pulley I hunted the Internet intensely for 2-3 weeks every night for a replacment. I found a "fire engine" thru a "Yard" which had had a fire on the topside but still had good internals ($300)

Be absolutely, positively sure you achieve the minimum Torque rating of 101ft/lbs (or more) on the crank bolt..

Good Luck!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by tksmr2

The NA crank pulley is actually going to give you lower boost than stock. I wouldn't use that.. You need to replace your crank key.. ASAP. My problem has nothing to do with my pulley mod.. and yes.. it's a NEVO crank pulley.

85SuperGZE · 05-11-2009, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr2tim

Wow, dude, if your crank was wobbling and the crankshaft tipped has been fractured you better be shopping for a new crankshaft pronto. If your going to still use the crankshaft be sure the "new" pulley is pristine as well as a brank "new" OEM key..

When my S/C spun the HKS pulley I hunted the Internet intensely for 2-3 weeks every night for a replacment. I found a "fire engine" thru a "Yard" which had had a fire on the topside but still had good internals ($300)

Be absolutely, positively sure you achieve the minimum Torque rating of 101ft/lbs (or more) on the crank bolt..

Good Luck!!

It wasnt wobbling in that sense, I guess that was a bad term, but it wasn't able to time, as it was moving about the shaft, as if the crank was going faster than the pulley, I am going to replace it any way, I just tried to look for a nevo, and someone wanted 320 for it so I am not doing that, Id perfer an original, but Im sure no luck for that either........Thanks Guys check in later....What is crazy as I was reading your old post on the other spot,tksmr2, you said your stupid sink was acting up, SO IS MINE WHOA, in the kitchen the last few days, even had it snaked to no avail, what a space time continuum..............

85SuperGZE · 05-11-2009, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr2tim

Wow, dude, if your crank was wobbling and the crankshaft tipped has been fractured you better be shopping for a new crankshaft pronto. If your going to still use the crankshaft be sure the "new" pulley is pristine as well as a brank "new" OEM key..

When my S/C spun the HKS pulley I hunted the Internet intensely for 2-3 weeks every night for a replacment. I found a "fire engine" thru a "Yard" which had had a fire on the topside but still had good internals ($300)

Be absolutely, positively sure you achieve the minimum Torque rating of 101ft/lbs (or more) on the crank bolt..

Good Luck!!

Not the crankshaft but the pulley. The notch in the pulley, sorry if that read wrong.....

85SuperGZE · 05-11-2009, 10:10 PM

Where can I find the crank key? Dealer? I guess that is the correct terminology, crankshaft key. Am I correct? I appreciate it. I have found some NST pulleys from NST, 300 bucks but it includes the crankshaft pulley, waterpump pulley, and a tensioner pulley, with a belt, so thats not too bad a deal.

85SuperGZE · 05-12-2009, 11:53 AM

AHH Woodruff key and most all parts stores have them for 5.00 bucks or less, in the HELP! section and they come in an assortment, I bought a few boxes of them........

tksmr2 · 05-13-2009, 03:15 PM

I also doubt by replacing the coil, that it would solve this problem. Unless your problem is different than mine.. my 87sc runs good until the ECU learns something (yet to be determined), and then the car gradually bogs.. until the car will not move at all w/o feathering the throttle numerous times. Then reset the ECU by either removing the neg. batt. cable or removing the AM2 fuse from the engine compartment.. then it runs fine for a short amount of time, then starts bogging again,, and gradually gets worse until it won't move again.

If it were just a coil.. then the car would be acting up all the time,, reset ECU or not.

05-08-2009, 03:29 PM	#42 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Well, today I decided I would hook up a timing light to the wires and see what happens when the cut out occurs, and lo and behold every wire I tested indicates it is not firing during the cut out, Could I/we have a bad distributor, or is it more likely the ignitor? Why would it NOT fire, if I put it to the floor I can kill the engine, but will fire right back up, if I let off it'll continue to run? What would account for them to not spark other than ig/coil, and distributor, nothing I can think of. AAGGGHHHHH!!! What ignitors can substitue for the gze one and what mods need to be done to accomadate such. I have a bunch of n/a stuff, I know they are not interchangable or are they?........Also can the knock sensor cause them to not fire? Thanks again guys. Will a age n/a distr and coil/ig run the gze? Last edited by 85SuperGZE; 05-08-2009 at 03:46 PM.

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05-08-2009, 12:10 PM	#41 (permalink)
tksmr2 No Skills Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: South Western PA Posts: 392 Thanks: 6 Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	The mystery continues

05-11-2009, 04:54 PM	#45 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Today, I decided I was going to tear it apart electrically. I drove it around the block and still had the heavy cut out/bucking. I pull it into the garage and start taking the plug wires off, and when I pulled the coil wire it had all this oily substance on the coil end. I took the coil/ignitor off and all this stuff leaked out and had saturated throughout the wire leading to the dizzy, This coil is less than a month old and it doesnt even have 30 miles on it!!! So I dig out a n/a coil that I have as a back up for one of my n/a's, slap it on there and go for a spin........Guess what no more cut out or bucking, there is a slight hesitation, but I think that it is caused by the wire from coil to dizzy, I had to use a old one, since the other is saturated. I'll follow up if that truely fixed it, as I just drove around the block. Dont want to p.o. any of the old folks around me.

05-11-2009, 07:16 PM	#48 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I hope that is what it is for you!! Did you have to set the timing to a diffirent time, because of your pulley mod,tksmr2? I thought I read that you had a smaller pulley, oh wait if you did its probably on the s/c, not on the crank? Is this correct.

05-11-2009, 07:34 PM	#50 (permalink)
jgates411 No Skills Join Date: May 2009 Location: Saint Marys, GA Posts: 15 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	hey this might sound stupid but i had a very similar problem in a turbo car i used to own... couldnt figure it out for the life of me. I replaced the starter coil with an MSD blaster, MSD cap/rotor, and wires and never had the problem again. Kinda weird thats what fixed it on my car but it may be worth checking into for you...

05-11-2009, 10:10 PM	#58 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Where can I find the crank key? Dealer? I guess that is the correct terminology, crankshaft key. Am I correct? I appreciate it. I have found some NST pulleys from NST, 300 bucks but it includes the crankshaft pulley, waterpump pulley, and a tensioner pulley, with a belt, so thats not too bad a deal.

05-12-2009, 11:53 AM	#59 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	AHH Woodruff key and most all parts stores have them for 5.00 bucks or less, in the HELP! section and they come in an assortment, I bought a few boxes of them........

05-13-2009, 03:15 PM	#60 (permalink)
tksmr2 No Skills Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: South Western PA Posts: 392 Thanks: 6 Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I also doubt by replacing the coil, that it would solve this problem. Unless your problem is different than mine.. my 87sc runs good until the ECU learns something (yet to be determined), and then the car gradually bogs.. until the car will not move at all w/o feathering the throttle numerous times. Then reset the ECU by either removing the neg. batt. cable or removing the AM2 fuse from the engine compartment.. then it runs fine for a short amount of time, then starts bogging again,, and gradually gets worse until it won't move again. If it were just a coil.. then the car would be acting up all the time,, reset ECU or not.