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Old 10-08-2009, 03:53 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Wow, that's definitely not a supercharged piston. That looks to be a smallport piston, which makes 10.3:1 compression with a stock head gasket, stock head, etc - unless it's an aftermarket unit of some kind.
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:10 PM   #22 (permalink)
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It's aftermarket most likely. He told me it was a TRD piston and it looks a lot like the piston in this thread http://www.aeu86.org/viewtopic/stran...s-4a-ge/t/6212.

The weird part is it was just about as fast as my girlfriend's 1986 AW11 i'm driving currently. Then again I never really gave it hell at the top end.
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:20 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Using a thicker head gasket isn't going to shave more than .5:1 for you.
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:31 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Repiv View Post
It's aftermarket most likely. He told me it was a TRD piston...
Grab a wire brush and some acetone and see if you can find any identifying marks stamped in the top of the piston. You got me awfully curious now...
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:05 PM   #25 (permalink)
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"2" "CD" and "0.50" is all I can find so far on the piston.
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:18 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I believe, although I am not positive, that those are OEM smallport pistons. They're the same size as my cylinders, so if you decide you want to replace them in favor of something else, I might be interested in those. I could always use a little more compression
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:01 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I'm already way deeper than I wanted to be in this engine. Replacing pistons and rebalancing doesn't sound fun to me.
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:13 PM   #28 (permalink)
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The Toyota pistons I've seen have been within one gram of each other right out of the box. They're pretty consistent. I don't think you'd need any rebalancing, so long as you have four of the same type of piston.
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:17 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Interesting. That changes things. What would you be willing to buy these for?

At this point i'm really glad I bought a shell that came with a completely torn down motor. :P
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Old 10-09-2009, 09:36 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Interesting. That changes things. What would you be willing to buy these for?
Good question, actually. The only thing that concerns me is that I am not positive they are OEM. I see aftermarket replicas on eBay going for about $65 a set. How about we take this back up after you pull one out and look for identifying marks on the skirt and/or underneath?
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Old 10-10-2009, 02:35 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Just found something halfway useful. If the pistons are OEM, they should have the word TOYOTA cast into them in the side, near the wristpin hole. I'll attach some pics.

Also, looking at the TRD Japan website, I don't see any 81.5mm pistons, and the "0.50" mark in the piston crown almost certainly indicates an overbore to 81.5mm (81.0mm is stock).

How exactly is the car's existing GZE "blown"? What's wrong with it? In other words, do you really need the NA's pistons, block, etc?
Attached Thumbnails
supercharging-questions-hicomp1.jpg  supercharging-questions-hicomp2.jpg  

Last edited by te51levin; 10-10-2009 at 02:39 PM. Reason: more questions...
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Old 10-11-2009, 11:41 PM   #32 (permalink)
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It spun two bearings. I really don't know how much further I want to go with this. I was planning on just dropping in this engine and being done with it but I'm so far beyond that at this point. I don't think I can even use the pistons from the other block because of bore differences and I can't afford to build up the other block.
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Old 10-12-2009, 01:45 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
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It spun two bearings.
Oh, that's perfect! Assuming the SC block is not damaged, you can keep the pistons and rings from the SC and just swap in the crank and rods from the NA engine. Or did the block get damaged too?
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Old 10-12-2009, 02:59 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Repiv . . . if you are tearing down and rebuilding an engine for the first time . . . don't rely solely on the manual. You'll probably need someone who has rebuilt a few to assist you. There are as many pitfalls as there are parts in rebuilding an engine.

Also, don't overlook replacing the tired valve seals, worn valve guides, and check the valves are seated airtight in their seats.

A good machine shop can turn down the spun journals on the crank, and you can put in just two oversized bearings.

I'm just saying it ain't over till the fat lady sings.
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Old 10-12-2009, 04:21 PM   #35 (permalink)
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unless your crank looked like mine that pushed the surface metal over the oil hole and sealed it with a ginourmous groove going around it...it'd prolly look like a tooth pick if machined smooth
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:24 PM   #36 (permalink)
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the question becomes... is it even a gze block? Not much difference between a gze and a smallport n/a block....

second... most Toyota pistons, if "toyota" isn't stamped on the skirt, will say "ART" on the underside of the piston (only way to tell stock latemodel gze pistons)

I had a set of the cheap cast ebay pistons in my 7a.... had no problem with the pistons or rings at all....

you can see where the OE shows "toyota" and the cast does not


the top of the cast looks IDENTICAL (even the little nub) to the oe pistons.
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