New findings on 2.0 ct20b GenIII w/mods - Page 3

mr29180 · 12-12-2008, 03:58 PM

Wow good to know but dobu think that ct20 could go for gen2 and still be reliable??

Emily Hux · 12-12-2008, 04:14 PM

Putting a ct20b is the best bang for the money upgrade for a genII rather than a ct26 clipped. Tried modifying the ct26 in several ways in the past and just wasn't worth the money for what little improvement you get on dyno.

DrWonderEyes · 12-15-2008, 12:37 AM

30 psi!

egad!

Justins-MR2 · 12-31-2008, 10:19 PM

How did you defeat the boost cut?

Emily Hux · 01-07-2009, 11:14 AM

You can run a ct20b turbo on a genII, but you still need to address a way to tune a/f since the GenII ecu (US or JDM) is not friendly or reliable past 15 psi.

For street cars the GenIII ecu is best since it will always save itself (throw fuel with boost). Just run 100 octane for insurance when playing around @ 20psi.

The first page of this topic lists the mods for this customer car. A full standalone (Accel dfi) was used for complete tunability.

Spyderdan · 01-12-2009, 02:28 AM

It would be interesting to weld the stock ct20b flapper door shut and add an external waste gate on the manifold to see if any improvements could be achieved in sustained boost or power.

Emily Hux · 01-12-2009, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spyderdan

It would be interesting to weld the stock ct20b flapper door shut and add an external waste gate on the manifold to see if any improvements could be achieved in sustained boost or power.

We are working on just this issue in the "ct20b testing again" thread. Our first attempts will be at increasing boost without any internal modifications.

Spyderdan · 01-12-2009, 10:22 AM

Awesome!

Its pretty cool what you've been able to achieve so far.

Spyderdan · 01-17-2009, 07:12 PM

Has anyone tried installing a 3.5 or 4 bar map, bigger injectors, adjustable FPR. This would push the factory fuel cut much higher and allow the ecu to stay in the loop so to speak. You might need a BTM to keep the timing from being too radical unless running race gas.

Or maybe just a 3.5 map and bump the base pressure up on the FPR.

I've heard people ask how Emily could still have such a good fuel curve with the map clamp but it makes sense if you remember that the FPR is still raising fuel pressure to the rail for every extra PSI of boost.

It might be a little old school but a cold start injector or additional small injector activated at ~19 psi from a boost switch could keep the A/F rich enough up top to avoid the need for race gas.

Can you tell I'm bored today? ;-)

PETC · 01-18-2009, 06:38 PM

Interesting ideas in this thread, I'll be anticipating your results.

redsled · 01-19-2009, 06:46 PM

nice read

i am rebuilding my gen3 right now

i have the hks cams and i am running ectune on a modified honda ecu and distributer

John B · 05-16-2009, 08:27 PM

Hey anymore updates?

Emily Hux · 05-17-2009, 11:45 AM

Made mods, now making too much boost. On pump gas 340rwhp / 330 torque @ 21psi. Do not do this! Made changes just haven't had time to devote to testing between Hard Target and shop operations. Should hopefully get a chance in a few weeks.

John B · 05-18-2009, 09:29 AM

How far can you take an unopen gen 3 bolck? Where is the point where I will need to do more than bolt ons and tune? I have a 97 gen 3

Emily Hux · 05-18-2009, 09:34 AM

The 2.0 liter blocks GenII or III are no different. You can expect the block to crack @ 450-500 rwhp. Then you go the 2.2 liter route.

John B · 05-18-2009, 10:23 AM

What about stock pistons and rods?

mr2magic · 05-18-2009, 02:32 PM

Only 400-500rwhp? I would have expected a bit more. What makes the 2.2l (5S series?) so much stronger?

Thanks for any info.

blacktristar · 06-15-2009, 09:39 PM

sang, did you notice that the Hp and torque do not cross at 5252 rpms like they should. this tales me that your dyno graph is manipulated for some reason.

ixtlann · 06-15-2009, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blacktristar

sang, did you notice that the Hp and torque do not cross at 5252 rpms like they should. this tales me that your dyno graph is manipulated for some reason.

wow ahahah yeah ur right thats messed up

presure2 · 06-17-2009, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blacktristar

sang, did you notice that the Hp and torque do not cross at 5252 rpms like they should. this tales me that your dyno graph is manipulated for some reason.

its because both graphs are not snapped to scale.
the scale on the left goes to 300, the one on the right to 350.
if they were snapped to scale, it would cross where it should.

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12-12-2008, 03:58 PM	#41 (permalink)
mr29180 Cage fighter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Frisco (bay area) Posts: 852 Thanks: 1 Thanked 29 Times in 25 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Wow good to know but dobu think that ct20 could go for gen2 and still be reliable??

12-12-2008, 04:14 PM	#42 (permalink)
Emily Hux Hux Racing Dyno Facility Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Goodwater, Alabama Posts: 112 Thanks: 0 Thanked 16 Times in 11 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Putting a ct20b is the best bang for the money upgrade for a genII rather than a ct26 clipped. Tried modifying the ct26 in several ways in the past and just wasn't worth the money for what little improvement you get on dyno.

12-15-2008, 12:37 AM	#43 (permalink)
DrWonderEyes MR2 + 350hp = Fun Join Date: May 2006 Location: Florida Posts: 450 Thanks: 0 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts iTrader Rating: (6/100% )	30 psi! egad!

12-31-2008, 10:19 PM	#44 (permalink)
Justins-MR2 No Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 5 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	How did you defeat the boost cut?

01-07-2009, 11:14 AM	#45 (permalink)
Emily Hux Hux Racing Dyno Facility Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Goodwater, Alabama Posts: 112 Thanks: 0 Thanked 16 Times in 11 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	You can run a ct20b turbo on a genII, but you still need to address a way to tune a/f since the GenII ecu (US or JDM) is not friendly or reliable past 15 psi. For street cars the GenIII ecu is best since it will always save itself (throw fuel with boost). Just run 100 octane for insurance when playing around @ 20psi. The first page of this topic lists the mods for this customer car. A full standalone (Accel dfi) was used for complete tunability.

01-12-2009, 02:28 AM	#46 (permalink)
Spyderdan All Skills Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 47 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	It would be interesting to weld the stock ct20b flapper door shut and add an external waste gate on the manifold to see if any improvements could be achieved in sustained boost or power.

01-12-2009, 10:22 AM	#48 (permalink)
Spyderdan All Skills Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 47 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Awesome! Its pretty cool what you've been able to achieve so far.

01-17-2009, 07:12 PM	#49 (permalink)
Spyderdan All Skills Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 47 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Has anyone tried installing a 3.5 or 4 bar map, bigger injectors, adjustable FPR. This would push the factory fuel cut much higher and allow the ecu to stay in the loop so to speak. You might need a BTM to keep the timing from being too radical unless running race gas. Or maybe just a 3.5 map and bump the base pressure up on the FPR. I've heard people ask how Emily could still have such a good fuel curve with the map clamp but it makes sense if you remember that the FPR is still raising fuel pressure to the rail for every extra PSI of boost. It might be a little old school but a cold start injector or additional small injector activated at ~19 psi from a boost switch could keep the A/F rich enough up top to avoid the need for race gas. Can you tell I'm bored today? ;-)

01-18-2009, 06:38 PM	#50 (permalink)
PETC √(176400) Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 2,410 Thanks: 27 Thanked 52 Times in 45 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	Interesting ideas in this thread, I'll be anticipating your results.

01-19-2009, 06:46 PM	#51 (permalink)
redsled Some Skills Join Date: May 2007 Location: new brunswick canada Posts: 61 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	nice read i am rebuilding my gen3 right now i have the hks cams and i am running ectune on a modified honda ecu and distributer

05-16-2009, 08:27 PM	#52 (permalink)
John B Cage Fighter Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: CT Posts: 191 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Hey anymore updates?

05-17-2009, 11:45 AM	#53 (permalink)
Emily Hux Hux Racing Dyno Facility Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Goodwater, Alabama Posts: 112 Thanks: 0 Thanked 16 Times in 11 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Made mods, now making too much boost. On pump gas 340rwhp / 330 torque @ 21psi. Do not do this! Made changes just haven't had time to devote to testing between Hard Target and shop operations. Should hopefully get a chance in a few weeks.

05-18-2009, 09:29 AM	#54 (permalink)
John B Cage Fighter Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: CT Posts: 191 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	How far can you take an unopen gen 3 bolck? Where is the point where I will need to do more than bolt ons and tune? I have a 97 gen 3

05-18-2009, 09:34 AM	#55 (permalink)
Emily Hux Hux Racing Dyno Facility Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Goodwater, Alabama Posts: 112 Thanks: 0 Thanked 16 Times in 11 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	The 2.0 liter blocks GenII or III are no different. You can expect the block to crack @ 450-500 rwhp. Then you go the 2.2 liter route.

05-18-2009, 10:23 AM	#56 (permalink)
John B Cage Fighter Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: CT Posts: 191 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	What about stock pistons and rods?

05-18-2009, 02:32 PM	#57 (permalink)
mr2magic deutsch type skillz Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Hannover, Germany Posts: 904 Thanks: 73 Thanked 36 Times in 33 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Only 400-500rwhp? I would have expected a bit more. What makes the 2.2l (5S series?) so much stronger? Thanks for any info.

06-15-2009, 09:39 PM	#58 (permalink)
blacktristar No Skills Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	sang, did you notice that the Hp and torque do not cross at 5252 rpms like they should. this tales me that your dyno graph is manipulated for some reason.