stall out

TechX · 05-01-2008, 11:17 PM

ok, after 7 years of not running, I pulled the mk1 in the garage(got out of the army and back in school), and began the long process. riddled with rust and holes and wouldnt start... I dropped the fuel tank, drained all of the nasty old gas, washed the tank out with basic dishwashing detergent and a water hose. then let it dry for a couple days in the sun, then I installed the new pump, replaced some rotten hoses, and reinstalled the tank. had a little problem getting the bolt started on the bottom of the fuel filter that I had disconnected, but I retightened it a little later.

next i changed the oil and filter, and refilled the coolant. charged up the old battery on trickle, not expecting it to hold a charge, I checked it with my multimeter, and it read 12.2 volts... not bad, wondered if it had enough amps to start the car, so I plugged it up and commenced to turning over the key. the car cranked a couple times and i got out to find out why it wouldnt crank. i figured I wasnt building fuel pressure because it didnt sound like it was getting fuel. underneath there was a mild drip of fuel and brake fluid. the place right below the fuel filter, i had evidentially taken the brake line loose and had to reinstall it. also the drip was from the fuel filter and i tightened that bolt about a quarter turn and it sealed it up just fine.

so i tried again, viola, the car started, ran about 1900rpm, loud as can be with no exhaust and no air box on it. after 15-20min though, it will drop to 800rpm on idle and as soon as she is warm she will constantly dip to 500 or less and stall out. this is what it did before she was put to her long rest, and we tried checking vacuum lines and everything but never found the problem. anyone have a solution? or suggestions? I'm assuming that it could be a sensor, but I'm not sure which one could be causing it. if i get on the gas it will run ok with throttle, but as soon as it warms up, it will continue to drop rpms and then stall out. the idle has been adjusted both up and down, and when it did this before, i changed out the plugs, wires, all filters including fuel, and it still continued to stall out. any help is appreciated.

LokiRx7 · 05-02-2008, 12:02 AM

I had this problem, I replaced my IAC with a junkyard piece and it quit stalling. I also cleaned my throttle body.

TechX · 05-02-2008, 12:05 AM

I have a parts car, I assumed that after checking the vacuum lines that it might be a sensor, such as tps/afm/iac.... I'll try to pull the one off the parts car and see if that helps. where is the iac located on our cars. My chilton and haynes is about 100miles away on loaner.

TechX · 10-29-2008, 12:47 PM

Tested TPS on a sensor tester. Goes the majority of the way through the band lighting up the lights, the top most indicator does not light when the throttle lever is released. Meaning at idle, the TPS isnt functioning. I think this might be the problem with the car stalling out. I can possibly loosen and tune the TPS slightly to fix this problem but I have a TPS that does not have a slight crack in it and I'm going to install this one after I pull the IAC and TPS off and clean the TB in carb cleaner.

Does anyone know how to Test the IAC off of the car? It has no power connector so it must be entirely vacuum and coolant controlled. It is the AC132 style. If it can't be tested off the car, what is the procedure on the car, other than pinching one of the vacuum lines.

Any other suggestions?

Timon · 10-30-2008, 12:16 AM

I'd suggest to retune the TPS, make sure it is within specs before you go playing with the IAC.

Here is a helpful link for the TPS MKI MR2 Write-ups . That should help out.

BTW you, I don't know the situation exactly, but I'd suggest bleeding your brakes if you accidentally disconnected a cable - just food for though.

05-01-2008, 11:17 PM	#1 (permalink)
TechX TechnoComputerGearHead Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Morgantown, WV Posts: 21 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	stall out ok, after 7 years of not running, I pulled the mk1 in the garage(got out of the army and back in school), and began the long process. riddled with rust and holes and wouldnt start... I dropped the fuel tank, drained all of the nasty old gas, washed the tank out with basic dishwashing detergent and a water hose. then let it dry for a couple days in the sun, then I installed the new pump, replaced some rotten hoses, and reinstalled the tank. had a little problem getting the bolt started on the bottom of the fuel filter that I had disconnected, but I retightened it a little later. next i changed the oil and filter, and refilled the coolant. charged up the old battery on trickle, not expecting it to hold a charge, I checked it with my multimeter, and it read 12.2 volts... not bad, wondered if it had enough amps to start the car, so I plugged it up and commenced to turning over the key. the car cranked a couple times and i got out to find out why it wouldnt crank. i figured I wasnt building fuel pressure because it didnt sound like it was getting fuel. underneath there was a mild drip of fuel and brake fluid. the place right below the fuel filter, i had evidentially taken the brake line loose and had to reinstall it. also the drip was from the fuel filter and i tightened that bolt about a quarter turn and it sealed it up just fine. so i tried again, viola, the car started, ran about 1900rpm, loud as can be with no exhaust and no air box on it. after 15-20min though, it will drop to 800rpm on idle and as soon as she is warm she will constantly dip to 500 or less and stall out. this is what it did before she was put to her long rest, and we tried checking vacuum lines and everything but never found the problem. anyone have a solution? or suggestions? I'm assuming that it could be a sensor, but I'm not sure which one could be causing it. if i get on the gas it will run ok with throttle, but as soon as it warms up, it will continue to drop rpms and then stall out. the idle has been adjusted both up and down, and when it did this before, i changed out the plugs, wires, all filters including fuel, and it still continued to stall out. any help is appreciated.

10-29-2008, 12:47 PM	#4 (permalink)
TechX TechnoComputerGearHead Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Morgantown, WV Posts: 21 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Stall out Tested TPS on a sensor tester. Goes the majority of the way through the band lighting up the lights, the top most indicator does not light when the throttle lever is released. Meaning at idle, the TPS isnt functioning. I think this might be the problem with the car stalling out. I can possibly loosen and tune the TPS slightly to fix this problem but I have a TPS that does not have a slight crack in it and I'm going to install this one after I pull the IAC and TPS off and clean the TB in carb cleaner. Does anyone know how to Test the IAC off of the car? It has no power connector so it must be entirely vacuum and coolant controlled. It is the AC132 style. If it can't be tested off the car, what is the procedure on the car, other than pinching one of the vacuum lines. Any other suggestions?

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Posted By	For	Type	Date
fuel filters location	This thread	Refback	05-02-2008 10:40 AM

05-02-2008, 12:02 AM	#2 (permalink)
LokiRx7 MR2 + Flat Black = FAIL Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: N.C. Ohio Posts: 315 Thanks: 0 Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I had this problem, I replaced my IAC with a junkyard piece and it quit stalling. I also cleaned my throttle body.

05-02-2008, 12:05 AM	#3 (permalink)
TechX TechnoComputerGearHead Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Morgantown, WV Posts: 21 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I have a parts car, I assumed that after checking the vacuum lines that it might be a sensor, such as tps/afm/iac.... I'll try to pull the one off the parts car and see if that helps. where is the iac located on our cars. My chilton and haynes is about 100miles away on loaner.

10-30-2008, 12:16 AM	#5 (permalink)
Timon MR2 MKI AW11 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Utah Posts: 628 Thanks: 13 Thanked 37 Times in 33 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I'd suggest to retune the TPS, make sure it is within specs before you go playing with the IAC. Here is a helpful link for the TPS MKI MR2 Write-ups . That should help out. BTW you, I don't know the situation exactly, but I'd suggest bleeding your brakes if you accidentally disconnected a cable - just food for though.