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| General Maintenance The place for answers about fixing your broken and worn out stuff or regular scheduled maintenance for your MK1 Toyota MR2. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Los Angeles
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Non-working brakes.
I bled my brakes at all the calipers.
But my brakes still aren't working. When I step on the brakes, sometimes they'll work like normal, but most of the time they'll just sink straight to the bottom where the wheels would lock if you pressed any harder. If you stepped on the brakes fast enough, it might work ok, but it's mostly when you slowly step on the brakes, that the pedal would just sink to the bottom. Think you guys might have an idea of what's going on ?? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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gimme some turns
Join Date: Apr 2006
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hmm, tough to say without really looking at it / feeling it myself - but I'd look at replacing the master cylinder if I had to take a stab from across the internet
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#3 (permalink) |
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Getting there
Join Date: Oct 2007
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I agree with kbrew. Master cylinder sounds like the problem.
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#4 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Alabama
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Sounds like the master cylinder... possibly air in the lines but it sounds like the air would be out by now... so I'm voting on the m.c.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Would it be possible that air is in the master cylinder itself and I would have to keep bleeding my brakes until I see air??
Also, would it be possible that the Brake booster be messed up?? Because the brakes would work sometimes and would only lock up at the bottom of the braking pedal's path... |
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#6 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Aug 2008
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If you bleed the brakes and caught air in the lines because the M.c. ran low of brake fluid then it would be you still have air in the lines. The brake booster could be messed up and is not pulling off the vacuum, the vacuum line may be leaking. Or you may just need to bleed it again and find air in the system...
Its a very hard question to answer over the internet due to I don't know how they feel when the pedal is pressed. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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gimme some turns
Join Date: Apr 2006
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bleed some more if you want - if it spits out some bubbles then you just didn't quite bleed it all the way before and that could be your issue
if it keeps spitting nice clean no-bubble fluid - sounds like an internal seal in the MC is bleeding off pressure and not "activating" the brakes - time to rebuild it or buy a new one (I prefer the latter, usually just a few $$ more after you return your old one to get the core charge back) |
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#8 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Im with all the others, the mc is bad and needs to be replaced.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Supreme!
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Well, my friend has a similar problem with his RX-7, in order to brake he has to push the pedal to the border line where the tires are supposed to lock (not enough pressure to actually lock em) that's because there's air in the brake booster, but it might also be the MC, but if it were the MC wouldn't the brakes be down at the bottom the whole time? just wondering.
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#11 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Dang, changing the master cylinder would be a big pain .
Thanks for all your input guys !! For some reason, I'm really hoping that there's still just air in the system so that I can just try to get it out. Would having air in the braking system for a prolonged amount of time increase the likelihood of this kind of thing happening though ?? |
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#12 (permalink) |
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gimme some turns
Join Date: Apr 2006
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it shouldn't be too bad, just make sure you pick up the specialized line wrenches so you don't round off the fittings
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#13 (permalink) |
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Brain Surgeon
Join Date: Jan 2008
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I had the exact same problem in my 86 , some times the brakes worked and some times they went straight to the floor, and i changed the MC but the problem still existed. Recently i flushed all the fluid and found that one of my bleeder screws was blocked. After all new fluid and cleaning the bleeder screw the brakes are working properly again and there is no pedal fade at all.
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Dreaming of apexes
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Quote:
If you are confident that you didn't suck air in and bleeding the system results in no change then yes, it's got to be the master cylinder. Having air in the system doesn't increase the liklihood of this happening. It's just a matter of wear and tear over time. You might want to check with Aaron @ Lithia Toyota to see what a MC would run you with the club discount.
__________________
"Inside the car, the world beyond the driver's immediate horizon ceases to exist. Alone with the solitude of his desire, survival sense numbed by the speed, he's outrun the mediocrity of the outside world, slipped the shackles it tries to clamp on us all. He is running free, chased only by a fear of failure, for failure is to risk ejection into the real world." ~Mark Hughes |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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Wow, Muffinman !!
Thank you !! That's the best thing I've heard all week ! But it does sound like a big thing to fix if I'm going to have to flush out all the brake fluid. Another question .. do brake fluid turn reddish orange over time ?? |
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#16 (permalink) |
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gimme some turns
Join Date: Apr 2006
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after decades it could turn that color as it corrodes all the inner linings of the brake lines
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Brain Surgeon
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Quote:
Take a small piece of clear hose that fits the bleeder screw tightly and submerge it in a bottle with some fluid in it and then just work your way around the car as some one pumps the brake , make sure you constantly check your MC so that you don't run out of fluid and start sucking in air. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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Wow, the master cylinder is really expensive to replace !!
Is there anything else that I might have to check for ?? Could it be that the brake lines somewhere instead be leaking fluid ?? Any particular trouble spots that I might have to check ?? |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Brain Surgeon
Join Date: Jan 2008
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#20 (permalink) |
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gimme some turns
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Houston, TX
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