cooling light fan

[Creeps228]

hello everyone, i've been on this forums for a while but i just got me an 85 mk1 mr2. it runs fine and right...it has a bunch of emuff to it but umm when i was driving it home the COOLING FAN light came on...i had no idea what that was...so i parked the car. turned it off let it sit for like 5 min, turned it back on the light was off. This morning went to get the oil changed adn just looked over, bringing it back to the parking spot, the cooling fan light came back on. its a built motor, 7age NA...any suggestions

[Timon]

Check the connectors on the cooling fans. They are in the frunk, under a piece of plastic (most likely this plastic is gone), right by the latch. Make sure they are kicking on. Next would be to check for fuses/relays.

[Creeps228]

how would i know when they would kick on? my water temp guage on the cluster doesnt work so i dont know if they car is overheated or not. also would i check the fuses on the drivers kick panel? if so it doesnt have a cover so i dont exactly know which fuse to pull

[328FTW]

The fuses are in the frunk (front storage compartment). There are 2x 30 amp fuses if I remember right. If you want to check if the fans work on the radiator there is a plug that goes to a sensor that when unplugged makes the fans come on with the key regardless of temperature.

[Timon]

Easiest way is to start the car from a cold start, and just see if the fan comes on after it's warmed up. Otherwise if you want to pull out a thermometer you can test the actual temperatures. The manual says to check the temp at the filler neck of the radiator. When the temp is above 93*C (199*F), then fan(s) should kick on. If not then you need to test the temp switch.

The is a temperature switch located in the left, rear side of the radiator - just above the radiator hose. When it's unplugged and the key is ON, the fan should come on.


To test the switch, check for continuity on the two terminals while it is submersed in gradually heating water. When the temp is below 83*C, there should be continuity, and above 93*C there should be no continuity. If it fails either test - replace it.

I hope this helps.

[Jackstand Queen]

Could the warning light be associated with the side vent fan? The one in the engine bay?

I pose this question because:

The wires to the temperature sensor mounted off the speedo cable support on the driver's side of the head flexed to many times and broke. The fan light came on then for me. I replaced the sensor and then it went off.

[muffinman]

If you just disconnect the sensors while the key is on the fans should turn on. There is no fuse for the fans in the drivers side fuse box but here is a pic in case you need it in the future.

[Creeps228]

Thank you all e****ally you muffinman for the pic. Ok reading these posts i've come to see that i need to check if the fans are working in general. Its kinda cold to bring out hot water and dunk wiring into water...it kinda scares me; i will look for connections to the radiator 328ftw. but i think they dont even turn on to be honest...and side vent in engine bay? i havent seen one i'll also try to look for at this weekend. and my radiator doesnt have a place to fill the radiator in. Im used to twisitng off a cap but the mr2 didnt seem to have one or am i wrong. I do apologize its my first Mid-engine RWD car, i enjoy having it...but to me it seems to lack power on the low end which isnt too fun if your stuck in traffic trying to go from a rolling stop to acceleration in 2nd gear...it kind of feel exteremly sluggish...

[Timon]

First off, the radiator fill is in the engine bay, on the passenger side, towards the trunk.

Second, you don't actually have to test it outside, you can remove the wiring and bring it in, or you can test the connection on the wire while testing the temperature at the radiator fill - no boiling your own water required since it'd be tested while on the vehicle.

Third, if it feels a bit sluggish on a rolling stop in 2nd, chances are you're going pretty slow, try 1st instead. 2nd is good at about 20ish mph iirc, otherwise, rev it up a little bit, and drop it back into 1st for the extra pull.

[328FTW]

Yah timon is right about the gear thing (and the filler). The MR2 has a small engine but it screams pretty good so you rev it out a lot more than say a v6 or v8. If I'm hauling I hammer right out to the limiter and really want to have it raised to 8500rpm. I'm told they are good for 9k but I'm skeptical. Just practice shifting point till you feel it is about right.

[Timon]

I've noticed for DD I rev out to about 3-4.5k depending on the situation, which is still way off compared to most people's DD. High rev engines just take a bit more to get into the power band, just like 328FTW said, this isn't a V6/8.

[Creeps228]

yeah i know, my just gettin used it. its my first manual like i said, i own a 99 camry auto which has low end torque, i thought the mr2 would also but it doesnt...just gotta get used to it...

Also, i check the two fuses in the Frunk, they are ok, the fuse in the engine bay its ok...i drove the car cooligh fan light came on once again...so i stopped open the engien lid and i noticed teh side fan you guys been talking about...but it wasnt spinning at all. could the fan itself be bad? and the front fans still dont seem to want to work

[328FTW]

If you want to really check from step 1 get a power source by running some wires or using a spare battery or battery charger and unplug the fans and put power to them directly. That will tell you if the motors are good then you can move onto if the sensors and power source are working right.

[Timon]

I'd say before running wires to the fan directly from a source, just unplug the sensor. That should kick the fan on when the key is turned. It's simple, effective, and easy to do.

[Jackstand Queen]

The last person I let drive my Mr2 drove it like an old V-8 manual transmission truck. He expected the car to take off up a steep hill at idle PRM range. He will never get to drive it again.

Don't worry about mixing water and 12 volt wiring together. The combination of voltage and ampherage are not enough to harm you. But do stay away from wires coming off the coil when its powered. Its not fatal, but if you've ever wondered what it feels like to be "Tased" . . . he heh.

In the immortal words of the famous heckler:
"Don't Tase me Bro"

[Creeps228]

yea i know. ive messed with a coil pack before. Umm update i havent been able to test the idea on the car but i'll try as soon as possible. aslo since i started this thread and i dont to start another one here is my second question...for those who have an after market stereo how you have it connected. if i connect the constant 12V plug to the radio the radio and clock stays on after it key is pulled out...is this normal?

[328FTW]

My clock goes off when it is turned off but all stereos are different. Are you sure it is the 12v constant not the acc line or something. Maybe it is just how it is.

[Creeps228]

i honestly think this car was a bad investment but i think im starting to get used to it...alright thankyou everyone...i'll update on the fans tomorrow

[mr3]

For most radio's that I wired up yellow goes to a constant hot and red goes to a hot when the ignition is on. On mine I just have red and yellow going to a constant hot and the radio can play all the time and the clock stays on. It's up to you. If you google radio wiring guide there will be easy pictures that will help you out emensly. http://www.siocommunications.co.uk/W...dio_wiring.jpg

[Creeps228]

mr3, thanks but i got the radio workign how i like it to...and umm its been two days adn the cooling fan light hasnt came on...