Fun Game: What broke?

suprarx7nut · 01-06-2009, 03:47 AM

Any tips on getting a sitting aw11 to run again?

Details:
-Car sat, unused for a year. PO left battery connected (idiot). Went to start car, didn't start.
-He tried using a new battery (supposedly) and got nowhere.
-Tried changing out plugs, and dizzy cap and rotor to no avail.

I'll pull codes asap tomorrow after picking it up.

Any suggestions or common problems with these cars after sitting for too long?

Thanks for any help!

DENT:

328FTW · 01-06-2009, 04:31 AM

Welcome to the board

-I would swap out the fuel for fresh stuff cause stale fuel will make it impossible to start.
-Take your own battery or jumper cables because you have no idea if he actually tried a reasonable battery.
-What are the plug leads like? Could be bad leads.
-Timing could be out even if it has spark. Not sure if you can do much about that without being walked through it if you don't know how to retime it.
-Check vacuum lines and all plugs make sure nothing is unplugged or loose

When you start trying to start it do the usual checks for spark and fuel after checking the oil and water. If it has been sitting sometimes they do take a while to start then after they do may smoke for a minute then clear.

suprarx7nut · 01-06-2009, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 328FTW

Welcome to the board

-I would swap out the fuel for fresh stuff cause stale fuel will make it impossible to start.
-Take your own battery or jumper cables because you have no idea if he actually tried a reasonable battery.
-What are the plug leads like? Could be bad leads.
-Timing could be out even if it has spark. Not sure if you can do much about that without being walked through it if you don't know how to retime it.
-Check vacuum lines and all plugs make sure nothing is unplugged or loose

When you start trying to start it do the usual checks for spark and fuel after checking the oil and water. If it has been sitting sometimes they do take a while to start then after they do may smoke for a minute then clear.

-Is there an easy way to swap out fuel? I have a siphoning hand pump, but I know with the old supras, it's near impossible to get any flexible tubing into the tank. Maybe if the tank is low enough, I can just add a few gallons of new fuel?

-I'll have it home tonight and I'll try charging the battery and then maybe jumping it as well.

-Plug leads seemed fine, but I'll look in closer detail.

-I have done timing on 4 different cars so I should be able to figure it out on the aw11.

-I'll check vacuum too.

Is there an online TSRM (repair manual) for the aw11? I'll probably buy one, but until I get one, it'd be nice to have something to work off of.

Thanks for the response!

-Andy

328FTW · 01-06-2009, 03:34 PM

There is a drain plug on the fuel tank but you have to remove the plastic covers over it first.

and there is a manual for the aw11. Haynes make one and there is the infamous BGB (Big Green Book because it is big and green). You can download the bgb online here http://www.shinny.co.uk/88aw11.pdf It has a troubleshooting guide and simple pictures for some things so it is a good start

tjmr2 · 01-07-2009, 02:32 AM

If you short terminals FP to B+ in your terminal test block, (same terminal test block one uses to set jumpers for ignition timing) and switch the ignition ON, that should turn on the fuel pump. So disconnect the fuel line at the connector to the fuel rail, stick the end of the hose in a bucket, jumper FP to B+ and turn on the ignition and the fuel pump will drain the tank for you.

Since the car has set for a year, I'd pour a table spoon of Marvel Mystery Oil, or at the least your favorite motor oil in each spark plug hole before starting the engine. This oil will coat the rings and provide lubrication to the top end during a dry start. (The cranking time from when everything starts to move to when pressurized oil gets to critical parts. ) Yes it will smoke a bit, but at least you know it's lubricating and not galling.

If I wanted to do it right I'd probably also pull the valve covers and spray a light oil to soak into the valve bucket area and pour motor oil over the tops of the cams to drown the buckets and shims, and spray oil as best I could on the valve stems and seals.

Not much you can do for the bottom of the motor without either adding in an additional pump as the oil pump drives off the front of the crankshaft. (pressurize system before starting.) My old Dodge I can remove the distributor and run the oil pump with a drill and pressurize the system, but the oil pump on a 4AGE is driven off of the crank so that option is removed.

All that said, while one year old gas won't provide great power it should run. Put a little oil in the cylinders so the rings aren't running dry and crank it. Once you get it started, run that tank to fumes and fill with good gas.

PO changed Distributor cap and rotor.........could be bad Ju Ju there. Make sure that when #1 piston is at TDC and valves are closed is when the distributor rotor points at #1 on distributor cap.

Good luck, we need more MKI's ripping around the mountains of Colorado.

suprarx7nut · 01-07-2009, 03:15 AM

THE CAR IS HOME!!!

Sitting in my garage as we speak.

Let the fun begin.

First step is to charge up the battery and see if it will crank. (after putting in some oil to lube cylinder walls.

(Thanks Tjmr2)

Quote:

Originally Posted by 328FTW

There is a drain plug on the fuel tank but you have to remove the plastic covers over it first.

and there is a manual for the aw11. Haynes make one and there is the infamous BGB (Big Green Book because it is big and green). You can download the bgb online here http://www.shinny.co.uk/88aw11.pdf It has a troubleshooting guide and simple pictures for some things so it is a good start

Cool, thanks for the BGB. Or as I know them, TSRM(Toyota Service and Repair Manual).

Drain plug on the fuel tank sounds easy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjmr2

If you short terminals FP to B+ in your terminal test block, (same terminal test block one uses to set jumpers for ignition timing) and switch the ignition ON, that should turn on the fuel pump. So disconnect the fuel line at the connector to the fuel rail, stick the end of the hose in a bucket, jumper FP to B+ and turn on the ignition and the fuel pump will drain the tank for you.

Since the car has set for a year, I'd pour a table spoon of Marvel Mystery Oil, or at the least your favorite motor oil in each spark plug hole before starting the engine. This oil will coat the rings and provide lubrication to the top end during a dry start. (The cranking time from when everything starts to move to when pressurized oil gets to critical parts. ) Yes it will smoke a bit, but at least you know it's lubricating and not galling.

If I wanted to do it right I'd probably also pull the valve covers and spray a light oil to soak into the valve bucket area and pour motor oil over the tops of the cams to drown the buckets and shims, and spray oil as best I could on the valve stems and seals.

Not much you can do for the bottom of the motor without either adding in an additional pump as the oil pump drives off the front of the crankshaft. (pressurize system before starting.) My old Dodge I can remove the distributor and run the oil pump with a drill and pressurize the system, but the oil pump on a 4AGE is driven off of the crank so that option is removed.

All that said, while one year old gas won't provide great power it should run. Put a little oil in the cylinders so the rings aren't running dry and crank it. Once you get it started, run that tank to fumes and fill with good gas.

PO changed Distributor cap and rotor.........could be bad Ju Ju there. Make sure that when #1 piston is at TDC and valves are closed is when the distributor rotor points at #1 on distributor cap.

Good luck, we need more MKI's ripping around the mountains of Colorado.

AWESOME INFO!

Thanks a ton. I hadn't considered the tablespoon of oil in each cylinder before cranking, but that makes perfect sense.

As for the fuel, the drain plug sounds much easier. If I pull a banjo fitting, that's one more part I need to replace. Any benefit to sucking it out through the pump vs. draining it?

Thanks a bunch guys.

**PICS added up top!

tjmr2 · 01-07-2009, 09:37 AM

In my opinion, disconnecting the fuel line and jumpering the connector, then filling jugs can all be done from the top and cleanly with a cost of a couple of banjo bolt washers.

To drain the tank you have to jack up the car and block it up in 4 corners, remove the covers under the tank, hope you can get the drain plug loose, then be ready to catch up to 10 gallons of gas without spilling it all over yourself and your garage.

Personally I don't like messing with gasoline and do what I can to keep from spilling it on myself so I let the fuel pump do the work when I had to drain my tank.

Good looking car, keep us informed on how it goes.

Timon · 01-07-2009, 10:52 AM

Another way to turn on the fuel pump is to prop open the door in the AFM and turn the ignition on. Assuming the AFM works it will kick on the fuel pump.

Also, since it hasn't been noted. If you don't follow all of tjmr2's advice about pulling parts of the top end to relub them yourself, then let the oil soak in for at least a few hours before attempting to crank it. Dropping it in and cranking it immediately defeats the purpose of dropping it in to begin with

.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjmr2

To drain the tank you have to jack up the car and block it up in 4 corners, remove the covers under the tank, hope you can get the drain plug loose, then be ready to catch up to 10 gallons of gas without spilling it all over yourself and your garage.

Am I the only MKI owner small enough to fit under the car without jacking it up?

suprarx7nut · 01-07-2009, 05:31 PM

Cranking the car with a new battery and I get a code 6. What does that mean?

I can't find anything about it the TSRM.

**Found it elsewhere. It's Rpm signal.

Bad dizzy circuit, ecu or starter circuit.

suprarx7nut · 01-07-2009, 07:15 PM

Well code 6 is gone and now I have no codes and it still wont start.

I checked for spark, using my timing gun and I got new spark plugs, so I'll assume I have spark.

What about fuel...

Any easy way to tell if I'm getting fuel?

**ADDITION:
So the engine will stumble if I use carb cleaner in the cylinders, but it will quickly die completely.

I tried turning the key to "on" and jumpering B+ and Fp and I get NO noise at all. I'm thinking the fuel pump is bad. I checked all fuses and they are fine.

Is there anything else I should be checking?

Thanks!

muffinman · 01-08-2009, 11:17 AM

After my MK1 sat for years the fuel pump took a dump and i've heard of a lot of other people that have had the same problem. If you do end up changing the fuel pump make sure you change both filters also.

suprarx7nut · 01-08-2009, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muffinman

After my MK1 sat for years the fuel pump took a dump and i've heard of a lot of other people that have had the same problem. If you do end up changing the fuel pump make sure you change both filters also.

Ok, so my plan is to go junkyard hunting tomorrow and find a replacement fuel pump. According to a few replacement part sites, the pump part is the same for many (if not all) Toyota models from about 86-90, give or take.

Does anyone have any experience using pumps from other cars? I'm near positive any that they claim compatibility with would work, but figured I'd ask here.

Thanks!

muffinman · 01-08-2009, 04:33 PM

I don't think all 86-90 Toyota's used the same pump. If you go to Advance Auto parts site it will give you listings of other cars that used the same pump. Take the center console out and disconnect the fuel level gauge wires before trying to pull the tank out , plus while your there you can drain the the tank with a syphon pump from there.Make sure you disconnect the fuel pump harness also.

suprarx7nut · 01-09-2009, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muffinman

I don't think all 86-90 Toyota's used the same pump. If you go to Advance Auto parts site it will give you listings of other cars that used the same pump. Take the center console out and disconnect the fuel level gauge wires before trying to pull the tank out , plus while your there you can drain the the tank with a syphon pump from there.Make sure you disconnect the fuel pump harness also.

Awesome! Thanks for the tips. I'll start on it tonight so tomorrow goes as smoothly as possible.

I hope to get it running tomorrow!

Advanced auto is where I got the list in the first place.

Here's the list:
TOYOTA
1985 - 1991 4RUNNER

1985 - 1989 MR2
1985 - 1991 CAMRY

1991 - 1995 MR2
1983 - 1993 CELICA

1984 - 1991 PICKUP
1985 - 1992 COROLLA

1991 - 1994 PREVIA
1984 - 1992 CRESSIDA

1984 - 1992 SUPRA
1988 - 1992 LAND CRUISER

1984 - 1989 VAN

They also list many other cars.
While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

tjmr2 · 01-09-2009, 06:22 PM

Timon, RE: being the only owner small enough to fit under your car without jacking it up.

I do know that since I installed the Eibach springs I don't have a snowballs chance in hell. Not that I had any room before the springs and struts anyway.

Might make an interesting thread to start.

yikes · 01-11-2009, 05:32 PM

Also make sure there is no water or oil in the dips where the spark plugs sit.

suprarx7nut · 01-13-2009, 02:54 AM

Well the fuel pump is now swapped and it runs!!!

It has about a gallon of old gas (2 years old) and 2 gallons of fresh gas.

Now the car is on jackstands and I was trying to let off the clutch with the car in nuetral... I can't find neutral!!! I tried many, many times and even when I take the shifter and move it horizontally in the neutral area (from 1-2 right towards 5-R) it stays in gear! Could this just be the clutch disc stuck to the flywheel since it sat for so long?

I'm hoping it'll break loose as soon as it's on flat ground...

328FTW · 01-13-2009, 07:02 AM

There might be a shift cable that has come off. Check the shift linkages on the gearbox and make sure they are all good.

Also the clutch is hydraulic so you will need to bleed it to make sure it is fully disengaging. Locate the slave cylinder on the gearbox and trace the line going down to a bleed nipple. You bleed it just like you bleed brakes usually with 2 people because it is 38247298374 times easier.

If you can't get the clutch to break loose (assuming it is stuck) then try leaving the clutch depressed overnight although with a hydraulic clutch the pressure can slowly leech away and you land up getting nowhere in which case find a way to jam the shift arm. An alternative is to roll start the car and once started thrash it hard in whatever gear you started it in and hope that the clutch freed/slipped/broke loose or whatever, its a real ghetto way of doing it but when you get sick of conventional methods you get creative. Of coarse you could disassemble to do it but that is not fun

muffinman · 01-14-2009, 10:14 AM

When you press the clutch does it disengage the tranny?

suprarx7nut · 01-14-2009, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 328FTW

There might be a shift cable that has come off. Check the shift linkages on the gearbox and make sure they are all good.

Also the clutch is hydraulic so you will need to bleed it to make sure it is fully disengaging. Locate the slave cylinder on the gearbox and trace the line going down to a bleed nipple. You bleed it just like you bleed brakes usually with 2 people because it is 38247298374 times easier.

If you can't get the clutch to break loose (assuming it is stuck) then try leaving the clutch depressed overnight although with a hydraulic clutch the pressure can slowly leech away and you land up getting nowhere in which case find a way to jam the shift arm. An alternative is to roll start the car and once started thrash it hard in whatever gear you started it in and hope that the clutch freed/slipped/broke loose or whatever, its a real ghetto way of doing it but when you get sick of conventional methods you get creative. Of coarse you could disassemble to do it but that is not fun

Quote:

Originally Posted by muffinman

When you press the clutch does it disengage the tranny?

Well I got the car on the ground and it acts just fine.

Maybe there just needed to be some resistance.

The car runs well now and idles a little high (1000rpm after warm up) but other than that its in pretty good shape.

Current Issues:

-Softball size hole in muffler <<Give me some recommendations! (Patch, new muffler..etc.)
-Needs 4 new tires badly. Current ones have bad flat spots.
-E-Brake cables do in fact move, but ebrakes do nothing to hold the car in place
-High Idle (need to check timing still)
-Heater fan does not work at all
-Stereo Does not work

Any suggestions on the above?

Thanks!

-Andy

01-06-2009, 03:47 AM	#1 (permalink)
suprarx7nut Supra\|MR2 Owner Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 41 Thanks: 7 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Fun Game: What broke? Any tips on getting a sitting aw11 to run again? Details: -Car sat, unused for a year. PO left battery connected (idiot). Went to start car, didn't start. -He tried using a new battery (supposedly) and got nowhere. -Tried changing out plugs, and dizzy cap and rotor to no avail. I'll pull codes asap tomorrow after picking it up. Any suggestions or common problems with these cars after sitting for too long? Thanks for any help! DENT: Last edited by suprarx7nut; 01-07-2009 at 04:54 AM.

01-07-2009, 05:31 PM	#9 (permalink)
suprarx7nut Supra\|MR2 Owner Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 41 Thanks: 7 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Cranking the car with a new battery and I get a code 6. What does that mean? I can't find anything about it the TSRM. *Found it elsewhere. It's Rpm signal. Bad dizzy circuit, ecu or starter circuit. Last edited by suprarx7nut; 01-07-2009 at 05:44 PM.*

01-07-2009, 07:15 PM	#10 (permalink)
suprarx7nut Supra\|MR2 Owner Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 41 Thanks: 7 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Well code 6 is gone and now I have no codes and it still wont start. I checked for spark, using my timing gun and I got new spark plugs, so I'll assume I have spark. What about fuel... Any easy way to tell if I'm getting fuel? *ADDITION: So the engine will stumble if I use carb cleaner in the cylinders, but it will quickly die completely. I tried turning the key to "on" and jumpering B+ and Fp and I get NO noise at all. I'm thinking the fuel pump is bad. I checked all fuses and they are fine. Is there anything else I should be checking? Thanks! Last edited by suprarx7nut; 01-08-2009 at 04:44 AM.*

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01-06-2009, 04:31 AM	#2 (permalink)
328FTW 3vzfe tinkering Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: New Zealand Posts: 1,537 Thanks: 12 Thanked 99 Times in 83 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Welcome to the board -I would swap out the fuel for fresh stuff cause stale fuel will make it impossible to start. -Take your own battery or jumper cables because you have no idea if he actually tried a reasonable battery. -What are the plug leads like? Could be bad leads. -Timing could be out even if it has spark. Not sure if you can do much about that without being walked through it if you don't know how to retime it. -Check vacuum lines and all plugs make sure nothing is unplugged or loose When you start trying to start it do the usual checks for spark and fuel after checking the oil and water. If it has been sitting sometimes they do take a while to start then after they do may smoke for a minute then clear.

01-06-2009, 03:34 PM	#4 (permalink)
328FTW 3vzfe tinkering Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: New Zealand Posts: 1,537 Thanks: 12 Thanked 99 Times in 83 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	There is a drain plug on the fuel tank but you have to remove the plastic covers over it first. and there is a manual for the aw11. Haynes make one and there is the infamous BGB (Big Green Book because it is big and green). You can download the bgb online here http://www.shinny.co.uk/88aw11.pdf It has a troubleshooting guide and simple pictures for some things so it is a good start

01-07-2009, 02:32 AM	#5 (permalink)
tjmr2 Cage Fighter Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Colorado Posts: 310 Thanks: 0 Thanked 49 Times in 46 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	If you short terminals FP to B+ in your terminal test block, (same terminal test block one uses to set jumpers for ignition timing) and switch the ignition ON, that should turn on the fuel pump. So disconnect the fuel line at the connector to the fuel rail, stick the end of the hose in a bucket, jumper FP to B+ and turn on the ignition and the fuel pump will drain the tank for you. Since the car has set for a year, I'd pour a table spoon of Marvel Mystery Oil, or at the least your favorite motor oil in each spark plug hole before starting the engine. This oil will coat the rings and provide lubrication to the top end during a dry start. (The cranking time from when everything starts to move to when pressurized oil gets to critical parts. ) Yes it will smoke a bit, but at least you know it's lubricating and not galling. If I wanted to do it right I'd probably also pull the valve covers and spray a light oil to soak into the valve bucket area and pour motor oil over the tops of the cams to drown the buckets and shims, and spray oil as best I could on the valve stems and seals. Not much you can do for the bottom of the motor without either adding in an additional pump as the oil pump drives off the front of the crankshaft. (pressurize system before starting.) My old Dodge I can remove the distributor and run the oil pump with a drill and pressurize the system, but the oil pump on a 4AGE is driven off of the crank so that option is removed. All that said, while one year old gas won't provide great power it should run. Put a little oil in the cylinders so the rings aren't running dry and crank it. Once you get it started, run that tank to fumes and fill with good gas. PO changed Distributor cap and rotor.........could be bad Ju Ju there. Make sure that when #1 piston is at TDC and valves are closed is when the distributor rotor points at #1 on distributor cap. Good luck, we need more MKI's ripping around the mountains of Colorado.

01-07-2009, 09:37 AM	#7 (permalink)
tjmr2 Cage Fighter Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Colorado Posts: 310 Thanks: 0 Thanked 49 Times in 46 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	In my opinion, disconnecting the fuel line and jumpering the connector, then filling jugs can all be done from the top and cleanly with a cost of a couple of banjo bolt washers. To drain the tank you have to jack up the car and block it up in 4 corners, remove the covers under the tank, hope you can get the drain plug loose, then be ready to catch up to 10 gallons of gas without spilling it all over yourself and your garage. Personally I don't like messing with gasoline and do what I can to keep from spilling it on myself so I let the fuel pump do the work when I had to drain my tank. Good looking car, keep us informed on how it goes.

01-08-2009, 11:17 AM	#11 (permalink)
muffinman Brain Surgeon Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft. Lauderdale Posts: 1,802 Thanks: 24 Thanked 102 Times in 99 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	After my MK1 sat for years the fuel pump took a dump and i've heard of a lot of other people that have had the same problem. If you do end up changing the fuel pump make sure you change both filters also.

01-08-2009, 04:33 PM	#13 (permalink)
muffinman Brain Surgeon Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft. Lauderdale Posts: 1,802 Thanks: 24 Thanked 102 Times in 99 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I don't think all 86-90 Toyota's used the same pump. If you go to Advance Auto parts site it will give you listings of other cars that used the same pump. Take the center console out and disconnect the fuel level gauge wires before trying to pull the tank out , plus while your there you can drain the the tank with a syphon pump from there.Make sure you disconnect the fuel pump harness also.

01-09-2009, 06:22 PM	#15 (permalink)
tjmr2 Cage Fighter Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Colorado Posts: 310 Thanks: 0 Thanked 49 Times in 46 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Timon, RE: being the only owner small enough to fit under your car without jacking it up. I do know that since I installed the Eibach springs I don't have a snowballs chance in hell. Not that I had any room before the springs and struts anyway. Might make an interesting thread to start.

01-11-2009, 05:32 PM	#16 (permalink)
yikes Cage Fighter Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Gnaw Bone, Indiana Posts: 230 Thanks: 2 Thanked 11 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Also make sure there is no water or oil in the dips where the spark plugs sit.

01-13-2009, 02:54 AM	#17 (permalink)
suprarx7nut Supra\|MR2 Owner Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 41 Thanks: 7 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Well the fuel pump is now swapped and it runs!!! It has about a gallon of old gas (2 years old) and 2 gallons of fresh gas. Now the car is on jackstands and I was trying to let off the clutch with the car in nuetral... I can't find neutral!!! I tried many, many times and even when I take the shifter and move it horizontally in the neutral area (from 1-2 right towards 5-R) it stays in gear! Could this just be the clutch disc stuck to the flywheel since it sat for so long? I'm hoping it'll break loose as soon as it's on flat ground...

01-13-2009, 07:02 AM	#18 (permalink)
328FTW 3vzfe tinkering Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: New Zealand Posts: 1,537 Thanks: 12 Thanked 99 Times in 83 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	There might be a shift cable that has come off. Check the shift linkages on the gearbox and make sure they are all good. Also the clutch is hydraulic so you will need to bleed it to make sure it is fully disengaging. Locate the slave cylinder on the gearbox and trace the line going down to a bleed nipple. You bleed it just like you bleed brakes usually with 2 people because it is 38247298374 times easier. If you can't get the clutch to break loose (assuming it is stuck) then try leaving the clutch depressed overnight although with a hydraulic clutch the pressure can slowly leech away and you land up getting nowhere in which case find a way to jam the shift arm. An alternative is to roll start the car and once started thrash it hard in whatever gear you started it in and hope that the clutch freed/slipped/broke loose or whatever, its a real ghetto way of doing it but when you get sick of conventional methods you get creative. Of coarse you could disassemble to do it but that is not fun

01-14-2009, 10:14 AM	#19 (permalink)
muffinman Brain Surgeon Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft. Lauderdale Posts: 1,802 Thanks: 24 Thanked 102 Times in 99 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	When you press the clutch does it disengage the tranny?