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General Maintenance The place for answers about fixing your broken and worn out stuff or regular scheduled maintenance for your MK1 Toyota MR2.

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Old 05-08-2009, 11:14 AM   #21 (permalink)
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All of the exterior lights work straight out of the switch , only the interior (dash lights) work off of the dimmer setting.
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Old 05-08-2009, 11:34 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Do you think there is a way to fix the dimmer setting or would it be better to get an entirely new unit?
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Old 05-08-2009, 03:17 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superxenrique View Post
Do you think there is a way to fix the dimmer setting or would it be better to get an entirely new unit?
there might be a way to fix it but it's probably easier to just buy a new/used one.
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:00 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Repaired Mast Light Switch

Here's picture of the dimmer that I repaired with Fiberglass Gel. This switch had exactly the same problem as yours.
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Old 05-13-2009, 01:24 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Wrap your heads around this Concept, or Else!

I would be willing to wager (say $50.) that the light switch is no longer stocked by Toyota dealers.

What MkI owner's now have to do is find a junkyard replacement, OR do as Mr2Tim did and repair the part instead of replace it.

In my travels, I've been to 3rd World countries, and noted that instead of plopping in new parts, like a we do in the USA everyday . . . . they repair the broken parts themselves.

Sometimes, you'll find that its actually easier and faster to repair the part, rather than make phone calls, then make two trips to the part store, and then receive the wrong part and start all over again.
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:17 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help everyone, but with my functioning used light switch that I was able to get a hold of for $20, the dash still does not illuminate. What should my next plan of attack? I don't want to have to do this, but I may just take apart the entire dash and check all of the wires.

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Old 05-21-2009, 10:38 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Does any thing across the dash light up?

Sorry for sounding stupid but have you double checked all your fuses?
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Old 05-21-2009, 11:15 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Yep, you're gonna have to pull the dash apart. Its not so bad after you have done it a half dozen times and know the routine. But the first time . . . brace yourself . . .. is gonna be a beeyatch.

You might see if you can schedule appointments to your Dentist's Office around the time you pull the dash. . . . . so you can have something to look forward to.
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Old 05-21-2009, 12:03 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I bought a light switch for my 88 MK1 last fall. They had to order it from some warehouse, I'm pretty sure the Toyota dealer told me it was the last one in the country
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:11 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I triplechecked all of the fuses and looked at the lightbulbs from the gauge cluster. The ones that are not functioning had slightly blacked the glass, signaling that they were burnt. I replaced them all and still no backlight. All that I can think of that is left is the wiring, but how could that be bad if all of my gauges work?

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Old 05-22-2009, 09:45 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackstand Queen View Post
I would be willing to wager (say $50.) that the light switch is no longer stocked by Toyota dealers.

What MkI owner's now have to do is find a junkyard replacement, OR do as Mr2Tim did and repair the part instead of replace it.

In my travels, I've been to 3rd World countries, and noted that instead of plopping in new parts, like a we do in the USA everyday . . . . they repair the broken parts themselves.

Sometimes, you'll find that its actually easier and faster to repair the part, rather than make phone calls, then make two trips to the part store, and then receive the wrong part and start all over again.
I actually had my friend who works on the counter at the parts store call up for the light switch to toyota and they said they could get it. Then they said the price and even with 15% discount for working where I worked it was still way to much for a switch. Went and found one cheap on ebay or somewhere else and put it in.

You could take them appart and fix the cracked soldering. It's a pain but if you dont want to pay over 200 for a switch, soldering is bareable.
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Old 05-22-2009, 10:43 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Superenrique Suave has an interesting problem.

He might try testing the wiring at the bulb for power. And then doing a continuity test for grounding at the back of the panel.

If the results were nil, he could trace the wiring backwards toward the fuses, and involved relays.

There is probably a relay involved with the lights, and there's certainly the light switch itself as the chief suspect of the problem.

Keep working at it, be ruthlessly logical, and methodical. You'll beat this problem eventually.
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Old 05-26-2009, 03:40 PM   #33 (permalink)
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While that dash pod is apart..Rheostat check

1. Same 'ol crap with the light switch buddy, the round plastic wheel is the mechanism that turns the dash lights on and off and dims 'em too. If the wheel is cracked (usual case) just "Goop" it back onto the steel shaft it belongs on.(24 hrs cure time!)

2. If your clock is functioning and the light works on it your "C" ground is probably working as they share the same ground position and wire leads.
(See Step #4 test) this ground is located above the fuse box, on the sidewall, at your left foot area.

3. We're gonna ass-u-me that you have a functioning fuse at the 7.5Amp Turn-Gage OK? that's the power source.

4. From that power source check that your getting power thru/to the green wire at the connector at the rear of the light switch assembly.

5. To confirm the Rheostat controlling the dash lights is actually working take a voltage reading from wire position #5 to Wire position #9 (see "H" connector wire location diagram (picture attached) from Page 71 of the electrical service book)
while you have the voltage meter on this location spin the plastic wheel and confirm if the rheostat is diming the dash lights. (Voltage will change as the wheel spins)

Hope this works for you to isolate whether the rheostat or other systems are your problem.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by superxenrique View Post
Thanks for the help everyone, but with my functioning used light switch that I was able to get a hold of for $20, the dash still does not illuminate. What should my next plan of attack? I don't want to have to do this, but I may just take apart the entire dash and check all of the wires.
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new-mr2-rheostat-pics-wires-attached.jpg  new-mr2-rheostat-checkout-connector-diagram-002.jpg  
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Old 06-11-2009, 01:57 AM   #34 (permalink)
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mine go on and turn off... i push the button in (not sure what its supposed to do) but it gets the crud out enough so i can see at night good enugh for now. im more worried about my wheel arch cancer than that. who needs gauges... just drive nice at night
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:01 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Have fenders will ship

Have Mark 1 rear fenders to fix your problem.

Can you install same?



im more worried about my wheel arch cancer than that.
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