Starter

Timon · 05-10-2009, 06:09 PM

Well I'm pretty sure the starter is going out slowly. I get the one loud click when trying to start on occasion. I have to get under the car to replace the O2 sensor anyway, so I'm going to do the starter at the same time. My question is, how should I do the starter? Rebuild my stock one, or buy an entire new starter? There's only a $15 price difference between a rebuild kit, and a whole new unit from a local auto parts store. Any ideas?

ebouwman · 05-10-2009, 07:17 PM

I would pay the extra $15 so that i didn't have to rebuild the starter myself, but i don't like soldering that much, especially in tight places.

And remember, the rebuilt starter is done by a professional, if you get the kit, it'll be rebuild by you. No offense but some how i think the build quality of a professionally rebuilt one is going to be a bit better

chrisclose · 05-11-2009, 02:47 AM

most likely it is just the starter contacts

, i would try just replacing those first. otherwise spend the money for a non autoparts store starter, unless you just enjoy changing them.

PearlJammzz · 05-11-2009, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebouwman

I would pay the extra $15 so that i didn't have to rebuild the starter myself, but i don't like soldering that much, especially in tight places.

And remember, the rebuilt starter is done by a professional, if you get the kit, it'll be rebuild by you. No offense but some how i think the build quality of a professionally rebuilt one is going to be a bit better

I beg to differ. These guys sit on some sort of assembly line place and pop out as many as they can. Do it right and get one from Toyota so it'll last another 15-20 years

.

Timon · 05-11-2009, 08:36 AM

Well either way, the starter isn't the cause of my problems. I just replaced the starter and I'm still having starting issues.

I get the single click when attempting to start.

I've tried letting it sit on prior to starting, disconnecting, and reconnecting the battery. It will eventually start, but there's no time frame on when. Sometimes it'll start after a minute, but just now it took about 15 minutes before it started. It doesn't seem to matter whether the car has been driven previously or not - it happens between drives, and on cold starts.

When it finally does decide to attempt to start, it takes about 15 seconds of cranking until it finally kicks over. However, if it starts on the 1st attempt it takes no time at all and cranks right over. It seems to be an all or nothing deal.

Anyone have any ideas on what the possible causes are? I have a new battery and starter done already.

chrisclose · 05-11-2009, 12:53 PM

check your grounds, possible that one came loose or is making a bad connection. wouldn't hurt to make a new one from the trans to chassis either.

muffinman · 05-11-2009, 01:55 PM

Definately sounds like a bad ground.GL

muffinman · 05-11-2009, 01:56 PM

How's your battery? Might be the ground terminal at the battery.

Timon · 05-11-2009, 02:07 PM

The battery is brand new as of ~a week ago. It has been relocated to the frunk, but I've triple checked the ground. If it wasn't grounding properly I'd assume it wouldn't start all the time. Not to mention that half the time when I have the issue, the ground is never touched when it finally does start kicking over.

This problem started prior to the battery relocation, so I'm not fully pointing my finger at that just yet.

I'll throw on an extra ground in the frunk just for the fun of it. Any chance this could possibly be the positive cable?

muffinman · 05-11-2009, 02:21 PM

9 out of 10 times if the starter just does a loud click it's usually a bad connection , the most common being the ground but you might as well check your positive too.

Timon · 05-11-2009, 02:26 PM

Only reason I'm thinking it may be the positive is because of how I have the new pos cable connected to the old ones. 3 eyelets on a nut and bolt combo. I'm not sure if this is a good enough connection to actually kick the starter over fully all the time. Really this is what usually seems to fix the issue is when I play around with this connection.

88-4age · 05-11-2009, 08:17 PM

i had the same problem and came to found out it was a badground so i ran a ground wire from my bolt on my starter to my frame and it starts everytime if i were you i would try it make sure it is 220 wire tho or else it will catch fire....just warning you.

ebouwman · 05-11-2009, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muffinman

9 out of 10 times if the starter just does a loud click it's usually a bad connection , the most common being the ground but you might as well check your positive too.

Ya, cause it *should* mean the solenoid is working.

Just make sure both the battery terminal and the wire to it are cleaned, and then check to make sure the tranny ground is cleaned as well.

And doing a ground wire directly from the starter to a ground point, or to the battery like 88-4age said sounds like a great idea, but like he said, don't cheap out on the wire!

88-4age · 05-11-2009, 09:51 PM

if you cheap out on the wire....you'll be screaming fire looking for water...lol

Timon · 05-12-2009, 12:00 AM

Well I sanded down some of the ground points to remove dirt and corrosion. I also got a distribution box for the new positive cable connecting into the previous two wires from the engine bay. I've started it 4 times in a row with no issues so far. The crappy part is not knowing for sure if it is fixed or not. Only time will tell at this point.

I believe it was most likely the eyelet for the cable coming off the starter, as there was some corrosion build up on it, but I removed the eyelet and connect it into the dis. box. We'll see if the problem jumps back or not.

88-4age, what do you mean from the bolt on the starter? Do you mean the one with the plastic cap which can be reached by simply removing the heat shield? Also, not being an electrician, what do you mean by 220 wire?

Thanks for all the replies.

88-4age · 05-12-2009, 01:41 AM

i connected my line to the bolt right next to my shift-arm linkage bracket (its one of the 2 bolts that hold in the starter to the frame to make the ground) and 220 wire is a really think wire that can hold upto 220 voltz. I'll take a pic of my wire tomarrow and post it on here for you just in case you make have to run yours like it

toyotaspeed90 · 05-12-2009, 01:11 PM

FYI.... wire isn't rated for 110v or 220v.... it's rated in amperage.... all THHN cable can take either 110 or 220, but you need to ensure you have a cable high enough to take the amperage required.

that being said, I wouldn't use home wiring in a car, ever. THHN is about as "fine" stranded as it comes, and anyone who has worked with it before knows that it's pretty stiff still... in a car, this can end up causing problems as things move all the time -- causing broken wires, broken connectors, etc.

Do it right and use some fine stranded 2 or 4 gauge automotive cable. Many car shops will sell it by the foot for about $2-3 per foot, not as cheap as home wire, but for reason.

88-4age · 05-12-2009, 02:43 PM

the wire im using isnt stiff at all i made sure of that trust me im not a complete retard when it comes to stuff like that it was just something that i could find real quick so my car would start so i could go to work but you are right its not a bright idea to use house wire on a automobile because everything does move around i plan on replacing mine with a shorter line and 2 gage automobile wire so that way i wont have no problems later on down the road.

05-10-2009, 06:09 PM	#1 (permalink)
Timon MR2 MKI AW11 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Utah Posts: 628 Thanks: 13 Thanked 37 Times in 33 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Starter Well I'm pretty sure the starter is going out slowly. I get the one loud click when trying to start on occasion. I have to get under the car to replace the O2 sensor anyway, so I'm going to do the starter at the same time. My question is, how should I do the starter? Rebuild my stock one, or buy an entire new starter? There's only a $15 price difference between a rebuild kit, and a whole new unit from a local auto parts store. Any ideas?

05-11-2009, 02:47 AM	#3 (permalink)
chrisclose Cage Fighter Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: tulsa OK Posts: 125 Thanks: 3 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	most likely it is just the starter contacts, i would try just replacing those first. otherwise spend the money for a non autoparts store starter, unless you just enjoy changing them.

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Posted By	For	Type	Date
Toyota Starter Rebuild Kit on Kosmix	This thread	Refback	06-02-2009 06:22 PM

05-10-2009, 07:17 PM	#2 (permalink)
ebouwman Curve Hugger Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: BC, Canada Posts: 1,390 Thanks: 18 Thanked 48 Times in 48 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I would pay the extra $15 so that i didn't have to rebuild the starter myself, but i don't like soldering that much, especially in tight places. And remember, the rebuilt starter is done by a professional, if you get the kit, it'll be rebuild by you. No offense but some how i think the build quality of a professionally rebuilt one is going to be a bit better

05-11-2009, 08:36 AM	#5 (permalink)
Timon MR2 MKI AW11 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Utah Posts: 628 Thanks: 13 Thanked 37 Times in 33 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Well either way, the starter isn't the cause of my problems. I just replaced the starter and I'm still having starting issues. I get the single click when attempting to start. I've tried letting it sit on prior to starting, disconnecting, and reconnecting the battery. It will eventually start, but there's no time frame on when. Sometimes it'll start after a minute, but just now it took about 15 minutes before it started. It doesn't seem to matter whether the car has been driven previously or not - it happens between drives, and on cold starts. When it finally does decide to attempt to start, it takes about 15 seconds of cranking until it finally kicks over. However, if it starts on the 1st attempt it takes no time at all and cranks right over. It seems to be an all or nothing deal. Anyone have any ideas on what the possible causes are? I have a new battery and starter done already.

05-11-2009, 12:53 PM	#6 (permalink)
chrisclose Cage Fighter Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: tulsa OK Posts: 125 Thanks: 3 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	check your grounds, possible that one came loose or is making a bad connection. wouldn't hurt to make a new one from the trans to chassis either.

05-11-2009, 01:55 PM	#7 (permalink)
muffinman Brain Surgeon Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft. Lauderdale Posts: 1,797 Thanks: 24 Thanked 102 Times in 99 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Definately sounds like a bad ground.GL

05-11-2009, 01:56 PM	#8 (permalink)
muffinman Brain Surgeon Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft. Lauderdale Posts: 1,797 Thanks: 24 Thanked 102 Times in 99 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	How's your battery? Might be the ground terminal at the battery.

05-11-2009, 02:07 PM	#9 (permalink)
Timon MR2 MKI AW11 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Utah Posts: 628 Thanks: 13 Thanked 37 Times in 33 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	The battery is brand new as of ~a week ago. It has been relocated to the frunk, but I've triple checked the ground. If it wasn't grounding properly I'd assume it wouldn't start all the time. Not to mention that half the time when I have the issue, the ground is never touched when it finally does start kicking over. This problem started prior to the battery relocation, so I'm not fully pointing my finger at that just yet. I'll throw on an extra ground in the frunk just for the fun of it. Any chance this could possibly be the positive cable?

05-11-2009, 02:21 PM	#10 (permalink)
muffinman Brain Surgeon Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft. Lauderdale Posts: 1,797 Thanks: 24 Thanked 102 Times in 99 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	9 out of 10 times if the starter just does a loud click it's usually a bad connection , the most common being the ground but you might as well check your positive too.

05-11-2009, 02:26 PM	#11 (permalink)
Timon MR2 MKI AW11 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Utah Posts: 628 Thanks: 13 Thanked 37 Times in 33 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Only reason I'm thinking it may be the positive is because of how I have the new pos cable connected to the old ones. 3 eyelets on a nut and bolt combo. I'm not sure if this is a good enough connection to actually kick the starter over fully all the time. Really this is what usually seems to fix the issue is when I play around with this connection.

05-11-2009, 08:17 PM	#12 (permalink)
88-4age No Skills Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 39 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	i had the same problem and came to found out it was a badground so i ran a ground wire from my bolt on my starter to my frame and it starts everytime if i were you i would try it make sure it is 220 wire tho or else it will catch fire....just warning you.

05-11-2009, 09:51 PM	#14 (permalink)
88-4age No Skills Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 39 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	if you cheap out on the wire....you'll be screaming fire looking for water...lol

05-12-2009, 12:00 AM	#15 (permalink)
Timon MR2 MKI AW11 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Utah Posts: 628 Thanks: 13 Thanked 37 Times in 33 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Well I sanded down some of the ground points to remove dirt and corrosion. I also got a distribution box for the new positive cable connecting into the previous two wires from the engine bay. I've started it 4 times in a row with no issues so far. The crappy part is not knowing for sure if it is fixed or not. Only time will tell at this point. I believe it was most likely the eyelet for the cable coming off the starter, as there was some corrosion build up on it, but I removed the eyelet and connect it into the dis. box. We'll see if the problem jumps back or not. 88-4age, what do you mean from the bolt on the starter? Do you mean the one with the plastic cap which can be reached by simply removing the heat shield? Also, not being an electrician, what do you mean by 220 wire? Thanks for all the replies.

05-12-2009, 01:41 AM	#16 (permalink)
88-4age No Skills Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 39 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	i connected my line to the bolt right next to my shift-arm linkage bracket (its one of the 2 bolts that hold in the starter to the frame to make the ground) and 220 wire is a really think wire that can hold upto 220 voltz. I'll take a pic of my wire tomarrow and post it on here for you just in case you make have to run yours like it

05-12-2009, 01:11 PM	#17 (permalink)
toyotaspeed90 No Skills Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 422 Thanks: 0 Thanked 32 Times in 32 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	FYI.... wire isn't rated for 110v or 220v.... it's rated in amperage.... all THHN cable can take either 110 or 220, but you need to ensure you have a cable high enough to take the amperage required. that being said, I wouldn't use home wiring in a car, ever. THHN is about as "fine" stranded as it comes, and anyone who has worked with it before knows that it's pretty stiff still... in a car, this can end up causing problems as things move all the time -- causing broken wires, broken connectors, etc. Do it right and use some fine stranded 2 or 4 gauge automotive cable. Many car shops will sell it by the foot for about $2-3 per foot, not as cheap as home wire, but for reason.

05-12-2009, 02:43 PM	#18 (permalink)
88-4age No Skills Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 39 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	the wire im using isnt stiff at all i made sure of that trust me im not a complete retard when it comes to stuff like that it was just something that i could find real quick so my car would start so i could go to work but you are right its not a bright idea to use house wire on a automobile because everything does move around i plan on replacing mine with a shorter line and 2 gage automobile wire so that way i wont have no problems later on down the road.