85 MR2 A/C - Worth fixing?

[tq_mr2]

Hi Fellow Mk1 owners,

I am the original owner of a 85 MR2 with 245,000 miles. The air conditioning started leaking about 3 years ago such that I had to refill with R12 each summer. (BTW this is NOT illegal, if you are EPA certified and can get old cans of freon. It is illegal to make new freon, but not to use up the remaining stocks of it.)

I believe the leak is coming from the Shrader valves. These aren't expensive, but you need to drain the system to replace them. My dilemma is, suppose I fix the valves and find out the compressor seals are bad. I may be throwing good money after bad. On the other hand, the A/C system in the MR2 is extremely high quality IMHO, since it lasted 20 years with only 1 refill before it started having chronic leaks.

My question is: How many of you Mark 1 owners have working A/Cs?

Did anyone try converting to the freon replacement, R134? How much did it cost and are you satisfied with it? How long did it last?


--Tom

[ebouwman]

I'm not totally familiar with how a/c systems work, so tell me if this sounds stupid, but would it work just to rip out a working a/c unit from another car and pop it in?

Living in San Francisco i'm pretty sure it might be an idea to keep the a/c system working if it's you're DD, or even if it's not.

Also it kinda helps the value of the car if everything works.

[muffinman]

I bought a used compressor vacuumed the system and filled with R134 and so far so good.

[Timon]

My A/C blows out colder air than what is outside, but honestly, I don't understand how/why because there is no belt connected to the compressor lol. I have no idea if it just wasn't put back on by the p/o or what the deal is with it. I've been debating throwing on the belt and seeing how it all works. Hopefully it's in good working condition, but being a CA car prior to me owning it, I'd assume it's been through hell and doesn't work.

Honestly, if you can get it working for a reasonable price, I'd say go for it, but if it's going to be $1k to get it up to spec, I wouldn't bother with it.

[mr3]

Are you sure it's blowing out cold air? Moving air feels cooler even if it isnt colder.

[palos]

I simply bought a 134a kit from WalMart or Target for around $20. It is one or two cans of 134a, with oil, and two adapters with valves. Every summer I typically need to add a can of 134a, but it is much less expensive than R12.

You can buy the 134a with a dye that is visible with an ultraviolet light to detect the source of your leak.

I've had three SC MR2's and have never been impressed by the air conditioning system, but my climate doesn't really mandate that it blows super cold.

[iceNine]

I'm an original owner of an 87 with about 145K miles. My AC worked well without any refills or service for about 17 years. It is now totally non-functional. I plan to evacuate the system and try an HC based refrigerant which from my research is claimed to be compatible with the old freon systems as well as being more efficient. Downside is that it is flammable. Will see how it goes.

[mmaxrossixx]

if u race the car rip all a.c components out if u like the luxury of having an a.c then fix it its pretty easy to fix but requires removal of the dasboard and sometimes u gotta take things apart to get to the compressor

[ebouwman]

Originally Posted by iceNine

I'm an original owner of an 87 with about 145K miles. My AC worked well without any refills or service for about 17 years. It is now totally non-functional. I plan to evacuate the system and try an HC based refrigerant which from my research is claimed to be compatible with the old freon systems as well as being more efficient. Downside is that it is flammable. Will see how it goes.

YIKES

Better not have any leaks then!

[muffinman]

Originally Posted by mmaxrossixx

then fix it its pretty easy to fix but requires removal of the dasboard and sometimes u gotta take things apart to get to the compressor

Chances are you will not have to remove any part of your dash and the compressor is very easy to remove if that's the problem.

[lsgheero]

my ac works, not original owner tho so couldnt tell you if it has been worked on since before I got it. I know I have had the car for 3 years and havent done anything to it.

[tq_mr2]

Originally Posted by lsgheero

my ac works, not original owner tho so couldnt tell you if it has been worked on since before I got it. I know I have had the car for 3 years and havent done anything to it.

How many total miles on your MR2 and what year is it?

[ebrooks4104]

I am a owner of a 85 and i have a belt on mine but the AC doesnt work but just using the fan works pretty well I drive all summer usually with just the fan. If it is a leak go to a junk yard i found parts to a couple 87's so if it look at junk yards.

[lsgheero]

Originally Posted by tq_mr2

How many total miles on your MR2 and what year is it?

170,000 on the chassis, only 30k on the current engine.

its a 88.

[mr2tim]

Picture this ice9, your ac system leaks inside the car you turn on the air recirculation blower and blow your ass clean out of the car right thru your closed drivers door. For real buster!

Save yourself (or your family) a world of medical bills dude, and don't make a mistake like your looking to do.

Flammable refrigerant is for fools in this car.

Originally Posted by iceNine

I'm an original owner of an 87 with about 145K miles. My AC worked well without any refills or service for about 17 years. It is now totally non-functional. I plan to evacuate the system and try an HC based refrigerant which from my research is claimed to be compatible with the old freon systems as well as being more efficient. Downside is that it is flammable. Will see how it goes.

[mr2tim]

Hey TeeQue,

I have several high pressure and low pressure valves you are referring to as Shrader valves. They are easily replaceable in the system and have connections that allow this to be done for maint purposes.

It is recommended that if you replace ANY parts in your system that you change the r-12 black rubber O-Rings to the high pressure resistant R134 green ones at that time.

When your ready, the cheeap way to go is to Vacuum the system and see if the vacuum holds for 1 hour. If the vacuums holds charge the system with several cans of R134 and some Dye and put a manifold gauge on the system (BGB Page AC-12) to check again for leaks . If it holds pressure, charge all the way up to specs-(Low side 21-28psi, High side 206-213psi).
If it leaks buy a black light bulb, turn off the lights at night and look for the "Glowing" dye leakages, you cannot miss this glow in the night mess.

Generally, if you see bubbles in the "sight glass" of the dryer (accumulator) you need more R-134. Be cool when adding this R-134 from a "can" you could over charge this system and it will EXPLODE.

Congrats on owning your mr2 3 years more than me, I thought I was the only fossil on the planet with this original owner title.

I am old school and believe in "don't fix it if it ain't broke", you can replace all the O-rings in this system but there are so many it took me 3 days (30 Hours)to do this on the racecar and I'll never do it again.

Here's some stored parts I have that you could need.

Tim
Supercharzed Toyz Raczing
Boca Raton, Fl

PS--- AC Compressor rebuild was $175 for the "limited edition" SC unit with the revolution detector sensor in the bottom.

Originally Posted by tq_mr2

Hi Fellow Mk1 owners,

I am the original owner of a 85 MR2 with 245,000 miles. The air conditioning started leaking about 3 years ago such that I had to refill with R12 each summer. (BTW this is NOT illegal, if you are EPA certified and can get old cans of freon. It is illegal to make new freon, but not to use up the remaining stocks of it.)

I believe the leak is coming from the Shrader valves. These aren't expensive, but you need to drain the system to replace them. My dilemma is, suppose I fix the valves and find out the compressor seals are bad. I may be throwing good money after bad. On the other hand, the A/C system in the MR2 is extremely high quality IMHO, since it lasted 20 years with only 1 refill before it started having chronic leaks.

My question is: How many of you Mark 1 owners have working A/Cs?

Did anyone try converting to the freon replacement, R134? How much did it cost and are you satisfied with it? How long did it last?


--Tom

[iceNine]

A couple of alternative refrigerants (first is HC and flammable the second claimed not):

Enviro-Safe, Inc - Enviro-Safe Products - Refrigerant

Freeze 12 Freon Replacement: EPA Approved!

and some interesting debates on other boards on the pros and cons of this option

Better than 134a refrigerant???? - Corvette Forum

Automotive Air Conditioning Bulletin Board • View topic - Charging with Hychill minus 30 50/50 propane isobutane

[ebouwman]

Originally Posted by mr2tim

I am old school and believe in "don't fix it if it ain't broke", you can replace all the O-rings in this system but there are so many it took me 3 days (30 Hours)to do this on the racecar and I'll never do it again.

You have a/c in your race car?

[alamostation]

I converted my '87 to R134 about two years ago. No problems yet and it cools enough in here in South Texas that my daughter and girlfriend complain about being cold when they ride with me.

If I hadn't been replacing the compressor at the time, the cost would have been about $35 including the new fittings.

[tq_mr2]

Originally Posted by alamostation

I converted my '87 to R134 about two years ago. No problems yet and it cools enough in here in South Texas that my daughter and girlfriend complain about being cold when they ride with me.

If I hadn't been replacing the compressor at the time, the cost would have been about $35 including the new fittings.

If you don't me asking, what did you have to buy to switch over to R134? Did you have to evacuvate whatever is left in the old system and put in new oil and R134A?

Did you replace the compressor because of the change to R134? R134 requires higher pressure, and I am not sure if the original compressor will work with the new refrigerant. How much did the new compressor cost?