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Old 09-15-2009, 09:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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This can't be happening...

In my other thread, I explained how my clutch cylinder leaked and I went to an auto body shop and got it replaced. But the clutch became extremely loose and I needed to push all the way down to the mat to shift.

NOW, my clutch is even looser and I can't even shift into 1st or 2nd gear. I can turn on the car but that's it. What am I supposed to do now to fix this problem? Read the other thread first and any advice would be helpful. thanks
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Try this for a temperary solution. Make sure you have fluid in your resivior. Open the frunk(front trunk) and look in the right cup against the firewall. If it's low (I'll put money that it is) fill it up with brake fluid. Then sit in your car and pump the clutch. You should be able to build up pressure. Enough pressure to drive it to the shop to get it fixed. Best bet now is to put the order in for a new slave cylender.
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I did check and the master cylinder is still full with fluid. I also checked the ground for puddles and there werent any so its not leaking.
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You are getting air in some how. Is the bleeder screw tight?
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Is this the slave cylinder or master cyl. you had replaced? Sounds like your system has not been bled completely. I recently did my clutch/tranny/etc.. and had to spend about 20 minutes bleeding until all the air was removed. Many shops will skimp on the process...
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Old 09-17-2009, 11:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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if your master has full fluid, i would say its a bleeder... meaning you need to bleed the line. Might be worn out slave letting in air, that wont make a puddle, it will just reduce pressure making it unable to shift. you can get a new slave for $25-35 or more, and should be easy to replace, im a total newb and i figured it out. but the bleeding the line part is harder than putting in a new slave, and its a two man job, so find a friend. Try bleeding the line first, if it builds pressure but then looses it, its gotta be your slave, or the line's themselves, but you say no puddles, so it seems like its just air to me.
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Old 09-17-2009, 11:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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are the st c56 slave cyls the same? i have one
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yeah, they're the same...

they are also only about $30 new to buy....do NOT rebuild slave cylinders, it's 100% pointless.
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:16 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I rebuilt a slave cylinder for an MG Midget that had been sitting for 18 years. I saved about $50 by doing the rebuild myself, it took a couple hours (mostly just to get it cleaned out) and I thought that was worth my time.

I definitely wouldn't do a rebuild on a slave cylinder I could buy new for $30. You'd have to spend $5 or $10 for the rebuild kit, then spend a couple hours working on it, and what you get in return is a chance to save $20 or $25 if you do it right, if your old slave isn't too badly pitted or scored to seal up right, and if it doesn't leak when you're done.
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Old 09-19-2009, 03:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Looks like your getting some good advice.

But what were you thinking...??....

getting some body panel/painting workers to do mechanical work?

(we just know there's a real story here? We hope?)
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Old 09-22-2009, 02:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I think i used the wrong words, I took my car to a mechanic which was Mazz Autosport located in SoCal and I'm probably going to try to replace the slave since the car has been having trouble shifting. The pressure is back in the clutch but the stick is having some hard time going into gear.
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Old 09-23-2009, 03:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirocyn View Post
I rebuilt a slave cylinder for an MG Midget that had been sitting for 18 years. I saved about $50 by doing the rebuild myself, it took a couple hours (mostly just to get it cleaned out) and I thought that was worth my time.

I definitely wouldn't do a rebuild on a slave cylinder I could buy new for $30. You'd have to spend $5 or $10 for the rebuild kit, then spend a couple hours working on it, and what you get in return is a chance to save $20 or $25 if you do it right, if your old slave isn't too badly pitted or scored to seal up right, and if it doesn't leak when you're done.
Most older Toyota slaves are cast units.... the older Master cylinders were too, but if you look at (some) newer stuff you'll see that they moved to aluminum. The moisture buildup causes deep pitting in the cast itself. If you rebuild, then you are just putting a new seal over a rough surface... it may cover the problem for a while, but not for long.

Considering a huge amount of Toyota slaves are the same, the cost is kept down on them.
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Old 09-23-2009, 07:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stonesjunkie View Post
I think i used the wrong words, I took my car to a mechanic which was Mazz Autosport located in SoCal and I'm probably going to try to replace the slave since the car has been having trouble shifting. The pressure is back in the clutch but the stick is having some hard time going into gear.
Few questions for you. When the car is off can you put the car in gear easily? 1,2,3,4,5,1,R Go through the shift pattern with the car off if it's hard to get it into gear off then your cables might be shot or the shifter forks bent or a few other things. When you are driving and you have the car in gear and you hit the gas does the car rev up and then slowly pick up speed? The clutch may be shot so you cant put it in gear. You will notice a slipping clutch more in the higher gears 4th or 5th. Deffinatly fix the problem that is making you lose pressure in the clutch and also check out those things I just mentioned.
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