General Questions

[AU-MR2]

Hey guys,

I have some questions, and Itried to search for some of the answers, but no luck so far. Some of these questions are probably stupid but they're questions I have.

Which way do you put the eccentric guides in? It seems like they fit either down toward the car or out from the car..and I'm not sure which way is correct. My t-tops leak either way right now, so I couldn't decide which is better. I figured that pulling it in facing out would push the seals harder against the door, but it doesn't seem to really make a difference.

My car is automatic (yeah I know!) and its not shifting into overdrive. I haven't gotten in there to look yet, maybe its just low on tranny fluid, but I was wondering if this is a common problem or anything.

My rear trunk smells terrible and has a leak somewhere too, but I'm not sure where its at. Is there a common place in the trunk where they leak, around the taillight gaskets maybe? I already bought some new gaskets, just wondering if that is the only culprit.

My parking brake light is on all the time too even though its not engaged...low on brake fluid maybe?

Thanks, in advance for your help!

[MR JAS]

Originally Posted by AU-MR2

Hey guys,

I have some questions, and Itried to search for some of the answers, but no luck so far. Some of these questions are probably stupid but they're questions I have.

Which way do you put the eccentric guides in? It seems like they fit either down toward the car or out from the car..and I'm not sure which way is correct. My t-tops leak either way right now, so I couldn't decide which is better. I figured that pulling it in facing out would push the seals harder against the door, but it doesn't seem to really make a difference.

My car is automatic (yeah I know!) and its not shifting into overdrive. I haven't gotten in there to look yet, maybe its just low on tranny fluid, but I was wondering if this is a common problem or anything.

My rear trunk smells terrible and has a leak somewhere too, but I'm not sure where its at. Is there a common place in the trunk where they leak, around the taillight gaskets maybe? I already bought some new gaskets, just wondering if that is the only culprit.

My parking brake light is on all the time too even though its not engaged...low on brake fluid maybe?

Thanks, in advance for your help!

t tops are very common to leak normally need new seals

i would check tranny fluid first

i heard somewhere the electric aerial leaks commonly

low fluid will cause the light to stay on i would check this first

[AU-MR2]

Well I know that t-tops leak in just about any car that have them, but I've also read that the eccentric guides would help solve the problem, without having to spend the money on new seals. I just wanted to see which way was the proper way to install them.

[muffinman]

Originally Posted by AU-MR2

Well I know that t-tops leak in just about any car that have them, but I've also read that the eccentric guides would help solve the problem, without having to spend the money on new seals. I just wanted to see which way was the proper way to install them.

I think this is for the MK2 but there can't be much difference.

MR2 T-Tops - Eccentric Rod Guide Installation
Introduction
The position and fit of the T-Tops in the Mk.2 MR2 can be adjusted by replacing the two small plastic rod guides in the locking mechanism with a similar part manufactured with the hole off-center. Rotation of the two rod guides then allows the T-Top to be moved relative to the locking rod, hopefully providing a better fit in your particular application. This page is intended to show the steps necessary to replace the rod guides. It is a very simple operation and should take even the most mechanically challenged person no more than 15-20 minutes per side. Of course, any modifications you make to your car are your own responsibility.

Parts and Tools Required
Eccentric T-Top Rod Guide - two per side. Part number 63283-17040.
M4 x 10mm machine screws - two per side. I got these from my local hardware store. Note that you must get metric machine screws.
Medium size cross-head screwdriver to fit T-Top cover screws.
Large flat-head screwdriver for use as a lever.
Clean cloth to remove T-Top handle clip.

Directions
Remove the T-Top from the car and place it on a flat, clean surface. I placed it on an old blanket to avoid scratching the glass.
Remove the screw from each side of the T-Top which attach the locking mechanism cover.

Work a clean rag behind the locking handle and gently pull each end back and forth until the spring clip pops out. See Photo 4 for the direction you need to work the cloth. Place the handle and clip in a safe place. Pull the knob off the sliding catch and keep it safe also.
Make sure the locking mechanism is in its retracted (remove) position, then gently lift the cover over the ends of the locking rods and insert your flat bladed screwdriver to help pop the cover out of the two clips that now attach it to the locking mechanism. Photo 6 shows the T-Top with the cover removed and points out the location of the two clips. Be careful not to break the clips.
Remove the old rod guide. It is not fixed in place by anything, so just pull it off the rod.
Insert the new rod guide in the same place as the old. There were a couple of small moulding lines on my new guides which prevented them from being fully inserted. After removing the excess plastic with a sharp knife they were fine. Don't worry about the rotational orientation of the part at this time; you can adjust it on the car later. I added a small dab of grease to the rod at this point.
Insert the M4 (4mm) machine screw and tighten. Be careful not to tighten it so much you eat into the plastic rod guide. You will probably adjust this later anyway.
Repeat steps 5 through 7 for the other rod guide in the T-Top.
At this point, I re-attached the locking handle (without the cover) and fitted the T-Top back on the car. This allows you to take the car for a drive while adjusting the rotational position of the rod guides using a small open-ended wrench. When you're happy with the final position you can tighten the locking screw and re-attach the cover.

Reassembly, as the books say, is the reverse of removal. The only part of reassembly which might be tricky is the spring clips that secure the locking handles. I found the trick here is to place the spring clip half-way onto the locking handle, then fit the locking handle back onto the splined spindle on the locking mechanism and push the spring clip fully home with the tip of a screwdriver. If you try this a couple of times it should snap home eventually.

[traintech86]

don't nuke it sir, you will figure it out when you see the guides. basicly, its the hole where the bar goes into when you lock the tops close. the guides can pull the tops in tighter. this can help but it depends on where its leaking from. i bought bran new seals and the guides and it still leakes. thats not to say they don't work, i just found out my leak was coming from an area where those 2 options can't help. sit in the car and have someone spray it or wait till it rains to find out where its coming from. mine leaked where the tops seal meats with the cars seal, above the window. let us know where its coming from sir!

[AU-MR2]

lol. Well. I have them, and they're on my car, already installed. I just wanted to be sure that I had them installed the right way. Which way are your guides facing? Down and toward the interior of the car or down and away from the interior of the car.