To fix or replace?

[Taneo22]

Hi,
I need some advice from someone who knows something about body work.
My wife and I were out and got caught in a sudden rain storm and we hydroplaned & spun into the cement divider wall. The damage is to the right rear quarter of the car. I am not sure if this area is fixable or if I should replace the body.
I am including some pictures for you all to see.
Thanks for any help / advice you can offer.

[PETC]

To me that looks very fixable... but I'm not an expert.

[NewForm]

i dont do stuff like that but it definetly looks fixable, not sure what your skill level is, but i would just pound out the ruff spots, a lil body filler if necessary, sand it, prime it and then paint it, but hey good luck in whatever you do, keep the 2 alive!

[puertorican.mr2]

I can be fixed. I have seen worst and you would not beleive that it has bee hit.

[imweip]

Looks like it might be a tricky fix, but should be fixable. I hope you are both alright, I just went though a wreck too.

[Taneo22]

Thanks for your input. yes we we are both fine, we didn't even stop. We bumped the wall in mid spin and when we got around we were headed in the right direction so we made it down to the exit (about 1/4 mile away) then stoped to access the damage. then we drove home. With the tops back in as it was still pouring down rain.

[Taneo22]

I was hoping to get it fixed in time for us to go to the dragon run in OCT. but I am not sure that will happen for us this year.

[PHOENIX]

This is complicated, everyone in this thread says it is fixable and it is, but by a pro with the right equipment. If feasable, i would seriously try to find a replacement piece and go from there. But thats not always possible.

The idea is to use as little bondo as possible. I've never ever applied Bondo more than 3mm thick. Its just not a good idea although others might disagree.

Since im sure you dont have all the right tools as a body shop ill try to explain how to fix it without those tools.

Your gonna have to get behind the fender some how and begin pounding the crap out if it to get it back into shape. Use a hardened rubber mallet for this, the heavier and smaller the mallet the better. You dont want to put indentations in it as it will just give you more work to do. In a body shop we would simply take a hammer slide, (Body Slide Hammer)drill holes in it, and pull it out from the outside, then weld the holes closed and grind it out smooth. When you get a decent shape going, you'll find the metal will be a little wavey. This wavyness is from the metal being stretched. This is where a stud welder would work out (stud welder) perfectly. What i would do is make sure that the wavyness doesnt go out farther than the fender is normally and then bondo over that. Be sure to get all the paint off in the area you are bondoing and make sure the metal is rough (180 grit sandpaper) before applying the bondo. While doing this, get all the rust off also. A drill with a paint removing bit (local wallmart or autozone) will do nicely getting the paint and rust off.

Now as far as the edges....thats the hard part. Basically your gonna be hammering it for awhile till it gets decent, it wont be perfect but you want it close. I would get something that is straight edged but not sharp to hammer against it, kind of like a chisel.

If i was you, i would put a coat of medium base bondo (its thicker and stronger than normal bondo, usually light green, i cant think of the name of it right now though) before applying finishing bondo to the whole area. The light green stuff can be shaped better and bondo is really only to smooth the area out (light blue stuff) and fill pin holes. Do not put the light blue bondo on more than 3mm thick. The light green stuff can be thicker.

Use a Block when sanding! This will insure that you have a smooth area.

This is going to take a lot of time and effort. Its not a quick process. Make sure you play with the bondo first on something else so you get the feel of how much hardener you need to put in it. you want the bondo to be applied and dried in about 15 to 20 minutes and its hot when you apply it (yes, bondo is a chemical and it gets hot, literally).

In all honesty, this is a quick overview of how i would do it, theres a lot more to it, I just don't have the time to write a book right now

Seriously, if you have $400 bucks, take it to a body shop, It shouldn't cost you more than that and you know it will be done the right way.

Body kits, well....there really isnt a body kit that will cover those fenders that i know of. When your doing the body lines themselves, go slow, use a block when sanding, and look at it, a lot! Getting the body lines straight is all in the eyes.

*takes a deep breath*

[Taneo22]

Thank you so very much. You were extreamly helpful. I had tried to work some of it with a slide hammer but I fear I am not very good at it. I will find a body shop. Thank you again for taking the time to help me.

[mr2stealth]

if you decide that its not fixable, would you consider selling?

[Taneo22]

Hi, I have already started the repairs, Thanks for your inquiry.
R-

[Makelo]

We are MR2 lovers for a reason, so hell yeah! RESTORE IT
Good decision by the way

[Taneo22]

Thanks, I hope to have it done by mid summer but it may take a bit longer to finish everything I want to do. Money/time permitting.
R-