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| General MR2 Discussion General non-specific discussion about MR2's |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Van Nuys
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where can i get my springs installed?
i went to a local suspenision shop and they told me they would charge me 289...100 for each axle and another 89 more to aligne them.....
are they over doing it or is it just me? i was wondering how u guys got your springs installed? i mean for lowering springs all u need is the springs right? do you need anything else? cuz the ppl told me if i had the kit....what did they mean by that? ![]() |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Basically, to install new springs, the following must be done: remove tires; remove the strut assembly from the spindle and upper mounts; compress the springs; remove the top hat (assembly) and then the reverse; plus a new alignment.
If you are mechanically inclined, the work is not difficult (though probably time consuming for the first corner). You will need to buy or rent a spring compressor. Locally they can be rented for $10. Alignments can vary greatly in cost, once again locally from $45 to $150. A shop with the latest, greatest equipment may not provide the better alignment. Ask whether they simply follow the manufacturers settings and set the alignment within the plus/minus settings, or will set to your specifications. The factory specifications may not necessarily apply to the condition of your roads. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Van Nuys
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what are the alignements for? in orderfor it not to be uneven?
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#4 (permalink) |
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No Drifting Skills
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Chicago
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U need an alignment or ur tires are going to sit unevenly on the ground, and when there uneven your tires will wear out faster then average, if u have a daily driver and some mechanical know how then u can do it urself, or else make some mechanic friends like me and they usually help out
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#5 (permalink) |
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Radical Dreamer
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Long Beach, California
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PM Masagsxr, he's in Norwalk and can install the springs for ya, don't know what his going rate is right now.
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#6 (permalink) |
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aka Hardtop Colin
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Pasadena, CA
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yeah, Masagsxr installed mine
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#7 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Norwalk, CA
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Awweee... Thanks for the referral (Davis / Colin)
![]() PM sent |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Downshift to Reverse!
Join Date: Sep 2008
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^^ He is LEGIT!
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Gen3 swap DONE!!
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Quote:
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#10 (permalink) |
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Radical Dreamer
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Long Beach, California
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Way to go Trey! Getting all that gravy.
![]() But yeah dude take it to Mark (Masagsxr). He's a stand up guy and won't short cut anything. Quality work for sure! |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Nov 2008
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ALRIGHT THANX GUYS
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Norwalk, CA
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Quote:
If you are to do that yourself, make sure move your face away from the spring coz that will cost you a fortune in surgery ... I've also heard stories of how some people broke their fingers... ![]() Thanks for the nice comment Davis!!! |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Novi, MI
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If you go to autozone, you buy the compressor and return it for a full refund when you're done. That's their "loan a tool" program. It's what I did and it was great. Also, as far as lowering springs and dependent parts are concerned, it's generally a good idea to do the strut inserts at the same time, depending on the drop. Few struts will support a drop of 1 inch or higher, except Koni (that I know of). Also, while the springs are off, you might want to consider replacing your strut boots and bumpstops (one part) if they've been shredded over time.
The job is pretty simple as long as you have a ratchet, metric set up to 19mm, breaker bar and a torque wrench (and the spring compressors, obviously). Remove the wheel, remove the brake line (clip holds it to the strut body), remove the drop link (5mm allen wrench and 14mm box end wrench) and the knuckle bolts (19mm socket) and then the strut tower bolts (loosen them when the car is on the ground, 14mm for the strut mount bolts, 19mm for the strut center bolt) and then that removes the strut. There are pictorial write ups in the brake/suspension part of the forum. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Removing the sway bar? You mean droplinks? You don't need to remove the sway bar to replace the struts.
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#16 (permalink) |
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SoCal/houston's mr2
Join Date: Apr 2008
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+1 take it to mixxer. he work for games and girls. wait..or is that for davis? lol
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#17 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Norwalk, CA
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^Thanks Frankie!!! Thats Davis but hhmmmmm maybe i can work that out too LoL
Shoty: Yeah, the drop links. Way easier to unbolt those suckers when you have an impact..... I dont have much but I've invested a lot on necessary tools like a 30gal air compress, 1000ft lb IR impact gun and the one below that I bought years back for $500 when my brother and I used have our own little garage selling car parts/accessories, engine components, coilovers etc... Too bad it didn't work out for us ![]() Yup, this is what I have in my garage ![]() Good luck using the Autozone rental tools .... They are good if you are on a really tight budget but the work will put a toll on you.Oh yeah, those rental tools are free but you need to leave a deposit of how much they cost "Retail price". Then they will give you a full refund. Last edited by masagsxr; 06-21-2009 at 02:03 PM. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Cage fighter
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Dude if ur goin to change ur spring u need to change the shocks too...it's allot better caz ur der already...
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#19 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Norwalk, CA
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Exactly what I did when I changed mine... Do it all at the same time. These are 20+ year old cars afterall.
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#20 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Van Nuys
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so i should change shocks as well?
where can i get shocks? is there any brand that you guys recomend? |
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