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Old 11-12-2009, 01:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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gear grinding a bit

Hi guys... Everytime i put my car in 3rd gear, no matter how hard i press on the clutch pedal, it still kinda grinds a little... any suggestions?
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Also if anyone has any tips or cheap mods i can do to my stock 1993 MR2 i just got pls let me know :0
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MRobert2 View Post
Hi guys... Everytime i put my car in 3rd gear, no matter how hard i press on the clutch pedal, it still kinda grinds a little... any suggestions?
yea when i put mine in 2nd it grinds almost every time
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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your synchros are going bad. This means the ring that makes the gear turn at the same speed as the shaft (the one attatched to the clutch) has gone bad, and the grinding is the synchro hitting the teeth, if you continue to shift fast, you will break the teeth off. if you rebuild now, you might not need new gears, just synchros. if you wait till it has shift problems, you will need new gears a.k.a. a new transmision
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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your synchros are going bad. This means the ring that makes the gear turn at the same speed as the shaft (the one attatched to the clutch) has gone bad, and the grinding is the synchro hitting the teeth, if you continue to shift fast, you will break the teeth off. if you rebuild now, you might not need new gears, just synchros. if you wait till it has shift problems, you will need new gears a.k.a. a new transmision
well we just changed the clutch... doesnt that have the synchros on it or are they just close to the clutch
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Replacing the syncros mean taking the trans apart anyways, so you would save money by not having to replace the gears but the headache of removing the trans, taking it apart to replace the sycncros and putting it all back together. Some have had success with prolonging the replacement of their syncos/transmission with transmission flush and use of Syncromesh trans fluid; reducing the amount of grinding. The problem you are having is fairly common. I would suggest you try to flush and use the Syncromesh first. It will be much more cost effective than the alternative. Good luck.

Ohh is your 2 an n/a or turbo?
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Replacing the syncros mean taking the trans apart anyways, so you would save money by not having to replace the gears but the headache of removing the trans, taking it apart to replace the sycncros and putting it all back together. Some have had success with prolonging the replacement of their syncos/transmission with transmission flush and use of Syncromesh trans fluid; reducing the amount of grinding. The problem you are having is fairly common. I would suggest you try to flush and use the Syncromesh first. It will be much more cost effective than the alternative. Good luck.

Ohh is your 2 an n/a or turbo?
n/a
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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mine is an N/A
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Robert, what are you planning on doing with your MR2? Budget, hp goals, track/street, etc.?
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Old 11-12-2009, 03:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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First im going to do some estethics: Paint Job (contemplating between Dark Blue or a Ferrari Red), and maybe headlights... then for performance: new Exhaust system including headers, then either get a turbo or a full engine swap including a turbo, and for last, suspensions.... and i would also like to replace my wheels, maybe a larger profile tire in the back with some aluminum rims somewhere between all these mods... also a Stage 4 Cluth :0
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Old 11-12-2009, 03:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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If you are going to swap, don't do anything yet, just drive it and save your money! I would probably paint the car during the swap as well especially if you are doing a color change. That way you can get the engine bay as well. Rev6 headlights are a very nice compliment to the 2 as well. Post some pics of your car!
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Old 11-12-2009, 04:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
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If you are going to swap, don't do anything yet, just drive it and save your money! I would probably paint the car during the swap as well especially if you are doing a color change. That way you can get the engine bay as well. Rev6 headlights are a very nice compliment to the 2 as well. Post some pics of your car!
Alright so this weekend im gonna bleed my clutch and change my transmission fluid... we will see how that goes... but yeah i dont know how to upload pictures besides its a sexy beast... its got a couple of bumps so i gotta figure out how to fix that
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Old 11-12-2009, 04:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Alright i got it... here are some pictures i just took

MR2 picture by avispado_bucket - Photobucket
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Old 11-13-2009, 01:47 AM   #14 (permalink)
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well the synchros are against the gears in the transmission, the clutch is just a disk that is squeezed.

if you look, the ends are the gears number 4 is the blocker ring, and the middle piece is the actula synchro. the blocker ring is what goes bad, it is a ring that fits over a piece of the shaft. the ring is tapered inside, and is ment to hold oil and then when the gearshift is moved to the gear, a ring overtop of the synchro pushes the blocker ring onto the shaft, which squeezes the gear out and grabs the gear, then you can click into gear. it is at this point synchronized
on the gear itself there are little teeth like on the blocker ring, when you grind, the big ring that slides on the synchro is grinding against those teeth.

just for anybody curious

basically, if synchromesh doesnt work, you need to overhaul, or wait for it to be dead and get another transmission. i have an 85 so conviently for sale if you (or anybody who bumps on here iwth a grinding problem) need it
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Old 11-13-2009, 03:10 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Not bad Robert! Keep us posted on how the flush and modifications go.
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Old 11-13-2009, 04:42 AM   #16 (permalink)
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he was talking about part 7 in the picture. its called a blocker ring. while you have it apart do all the blocker rings and if your year of transmission has any popout problems replace number 8(the detents) and the little spring that goes inside number 3(syncro hub). the blocker rings are like $3 apiece so get all of them, i think your year of detents is fine. so get the blocker rings put on and have the gears inspected when you have the cash
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Old 11-13-2009, 11:33 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Not bad Robert! Keep us posted on how the flush and modifications go.
Thx a lot man... Thx all for your help... And yes i think im going to my cousins to work on this right now... I just have a couple of more questions....

Which is the easiest way to take the alternator out? top or bottom?
do i need any special tools to bleed my clutch properly?
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:02 PM   #18 (permalink)
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To bleed the clutch, your cousin or friend and any hand pump with a larger reservoir will do, just get one with a larger reservoir.

Not sure about the alternator, I don't have a 5s. Here is what I was able to find from a quick search: Alternator Replacement Help.
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:27 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Hmmm I saw that video where the guy pumped Break Fluid through the Clutch Slave with that hand pump... so im gonna do that... And I saw that post with the guy having the alternator problem and it seems that going through the top is gonna take a little longer but its gonna be more of a pain... oh well... no pain, no gain
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Old 11-13-2009, 05:48 PM   #20 (permalink)
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yea i guess 7 not 4...for are the teeth on the blocker ring...its all the same component though haha. that cuases the grinding and 5 breaks off due to the grinding
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