Composite Materials Carbon Fiber Lamination Tutorial

turboguy · 10-19-2005, 09:15 PM

Carbon Fiber interior is becoming more and more mainstream these days, so how do you stick out from all of the kits? Why customize and laminate your own parts. When done right, it can look far better than any of the kits on the market today. Here is how you do it.

The first step, obviously, is to decide what pieces you are going to laminate. The material of the piece to be laminated can also decide what resin you are to use also. A typical polyester resin WON'T stick to plastic. Some regular vinylester resins are more suited for plastics. You need to purchase supplies such as carbon fiber, sand paper, a surface prep wash (such as PrepAll), measuring and mixing containers, a couple of 2 inch wide paintbrushes, and resin. For resin, the easiest to work with while laminating an object is KleerKote from US Composites. It will stick to anything, has a uv protectant, and dries crystal clear.

Now, to prep the piece that you will be laminating. Start off by sanding with a coarse grit paper (I prefer 80). This will give the resin something to bond to. After sanding, wipe the piece down with prep wash. Using a clean towel and more prep wash, go over the entire piece once again to make sure there is no remaining residue. (resin will only stick to the piece, not to dirt or grease on that piece.) Let it dry COMPLETELY.

Mix a little bit of the KleerKote resin. using a brush, apply a layer over the piece. KleerKote has a pot life of 35 minutes, so if you are using a different resin, your times may be a little different. Wait about 15 minutes until the resin becomes tacky like glue. Pot life is also dependent on your mixture ratio, temperature and humidity.

-continued on next post

turboguy · 10-19-2005, 09:17 PM

While the resin is beginning to set on the piece, cut a piece of carbon fiber cloth for the project. Use masking tape to outline the area you will be cutting. Cut down the middle of the tape. This will keep the fabric from unraveling.

Now, after the resin is tacky to the touch, lay your carbon cloth ofer the piece. You are going to get a little sticky here. Use your fingers to press and form the carbon around all of the contours of the piece you are doing. After it fits satisfactorily, let it cure for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. (Leave the overhang of cloth until it dries)

After it is cured to the point that the carbon will not shift when touched, mix enough kleerkote to cover the piece. Use a brush to apply a liberal coat to the piece. This will seal the carbon and greatly reduce the chance of air bubbles in the finished product. After that coat is applied, let it sit for about 40 minutes.

-continued on next post

turboguy · 10-19-2005, 09:20 PM

The next step is called a flood coat. You pour the kleerkote resin at the highest point of the piece and let it flow down. This resin is self leveling, so there isn't that much sanding to do later. Repeat this step 90 to 120 minutes apart until there is no surface texture over the weave. If you let the previous layer cure completely, you will need to lightly sand with a light grit paper (600 - 800 grit) so the next layer of resin has something to bond to. The below pic is after 2 flood coats. It will more than likely get 1 or 2 more before final sanding and buffing.

After the piece cures overnight, you can trim the excess off with a pair of fabric shears. (its only one layer of carbon afterall.

) Trim the fabric short with shears and use a Dremel to take it even with the plastic around it. One final floodcoat helps to seal everything together.

Notice the reflection of the light on the piece. This is before final wetsanding and there are still small waves in the resin.

-continued on next post

turboguy · 10-19-2005, 09:23 PM

After the piece is COMPLETELY cured, you can wetsand with 1500 grit, then 2000 grit until the surface is smooth. After that, 3M rubbing compound does a great job of taking off the haze that wetsanding leaves behind. You are now done!!

This is the piece after final wetsanding. (note how much smoother the reflection is) Just to make sure that there are no problems with this weathering and turning yellow, it is a good idea to have a paint shop spray it with a U.V. inhibitive clearcoat.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to help out.

-Jason

MR2TRD1 · 10-19-2005, 11:43 PM

dang...you're good...How much practice have you had?

turboguy · 10-20-2005, 04:54 PM

Enough that it cost too much

Tyler · 10-26-2005, 04:53 PM

can u do some stuff for people if they send u it

GF3 · 10-26-2005, 04:54 PM

kick ass man i am going to try this out on some things.... Is it really hard as you get to bigger objects

turboguy · 10-26-2005, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tyler

can u do some stuff for people if they send u it

I have and continue to do so. Its just not cheap. Making sure the weave still looks good and giving it a glass like surface takes alot of time.

turboguy · 10-26-2005, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GF3

kick ass man i am going to try this out on some things.... Is it really hard as you get to bigger objects

Its not really the size that judges how difficult it will be, its more or less the overall complexity of the part. Dash trim is pretty easy. The ttop mechanism covers are considerably more difficult.

blazinmr2 · 10-26-2005, 09:31 PM

So what is the total cost of the supplies you need? Like the carbon fiber sheets, clearcoat, etc? I have been wanted to do something like this for awhile and your tutorial is very helpful and easy to understand.

turboguy · 10-27-2005, 05:29 PM

2 yards of cf by 50 inches is roughly $70 and the 2 quart kleercoat resin kit is $20. With shipping, around $100.

blazinmr2 · 10-27-2005, 10:57 PM

Quote:

2 yards of cf by 50 inches is roughly $70 and the 2 quart kleercoat resin kit is $20. With shipping, around $100.

What website/company would you recommend going through to purchase this stuff?

turboguy · 10-28-2005, 05:42 AM

www.uscomposites.com

blazinmr2 · 10-28-2005, 03:43 PM

cool, thanks

blazinmr2 · 10-29-2005, 03:46 PM

What weave do you generally use? I'm thinking something like the 2x2 twill or the 4 harness satin. Or just the plain, the website says that is what is used on the factory done pieces from audi and lexus. Basically I just want to know what design is most commonly used.

turboguy · 10-29-2005, 05:04 PM

the 2x2 2k tow twill is the most commonly used as aftermarket. The plain in just that. Plain.

blazinmr2 · 10-29-2005, 06:44 PM

alright another question, do you wear some sort of mask to protect you from the fumes of the resin, or is there no need to worry about that if you work in a well ventilated area?

p.s. sorry for all the questions, but I'm a big noob when it comes to this stuff.

turboguy · 10-29-2005, 08:35 PM

The kleer kote is designed for table and bar top lamination. Its non-toxic, so there is nothing to worry about.

Don't feel bad. You have to ask questions to learn.

Mister2.2 · 10-30-2005, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazinmr2

alright another question, do you wear some sort of mask to protect you from the fumes of the resin, or is there no need to worry about that if you work in a well ventilated area?

p.s. sorry for all the questions, but I'm a big noob when it comes to this stuff.

Always wear a VERY good mask when working with CF, especially while cutting it. The particles can cut your lungs up and cause serious damage.

10-19-2005, 09:15 PM	#1 (permalink)
turboguy Resident Composites Guy Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Appleton, WI Posts: 948 Thanks: 1 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Carbon Fiber Lamination Tutorial Carbon Fiber interior is becoming more and more mainstream these days, so how do you stick out from all of the kits? Why customize and laminate your own parts. When done right, it can look far better than any of the kits on the market today. Here is how you do it. The first step, obviously, is to decide what pieces you are going to laminate. The material of the piece to be laminated can also decide what resin you are to use also. A typical polyester resin WON'T stick to plastic. Some regular vinylester resins are more suited for plastics. You need to purchase supplies such as carbon fiber, sand paper, a surface prep wash (such as PrepAll), measuring and mixing containers, a couple of 2 inch wide paintbrushes, and resin. For resin, the easiest to work with while laminating an object is KleerKote from US Composites. It will stick to anything, has a uv protectant, and dries crystal clear. Now, to prep the piece that you will be laminating. Start off by sanding with a coarse grit paper (I prefer 80). This will give the resin something to bond to. After sanding, wipe the piece down with prep wash. Using a clean towel and more prep wash, go over the entire piece once again to make sure there is no remaining residue. (resin will only stick to the piece, not to dirt or grease on that piece.) Let it dry COMPLETELY. Mix a little bit of the KleerKote resin. using a brush, apply a layer over the piece. KleerKote has a pot life of 35 minutes, so if you are using a different resin, your times may be a little different. Wait about 15 minutes until the resin becomes tacky like glue. Pot life is also dependent on your mixture ratio, temperature and humidity. -continued on next post

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10-19-2005, 09:17 PM	#2 (permalink)
turboguy Resident Composites Guy Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Appleton, WI Posts: 948 Thanks: 1 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	While the resin is beginning to set on the piece, cut a piece of carbon fiber cloth for the project. Use masking tape to outline the area you will be cutting. Cut down the middle of the tape. This will keep the fabric from unraveling. Now, after the resin is tacky to the touch, lay your carbon cloth ofer the piece. You are going to get a little sticky here. Use your fingers to press and form the carbon around all of the contours of the piece you are doing. After it fits satisfactorily, let it cure for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. (Leave the overhang of cloth until it dries) After it is cured to the point that the carbon will not shift when touched, mix enough kleerkote to cover the piece. Use a brush to apply a liberal coat to the piece. This will seal the carbon and greatly reduce the chance of air bubbles in the finished product. After that coat is applied, let it sit for about 40 minutes. -continued on next post

10-19-2005, 09:20 PM	#3 (permalink)
turboguy Resident Composites Guy Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Appleton, WI Posts: 948 Thanks: 1 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	The next step is called a flood coat. You pour the kleerkote resin at the highest point of the piece and let it flow down. This resin is self leveling, so there isn't that much sanding to do later. Repeat this step 90 to 120 minutes apart until there is no surface texture over the weave. If you let the previous layer cure completely, you will need to lightly sand with a light grit paper (600 - 800 grit) so the next layer of resin has something to bond to. The below pic is after 2 flood coats. It will more than likely get 1 or 2 more before final sanding and buffing. After the piece cures overnight, you can trim the excess off with a pair of fabric shears. (its only one layer of carbon afterall. ) Trim the fabric short with shears and use a Dremel to take it even with the plastic around it. One final floodcoat helps to seal everything together. Notice the reflection of the light on the piece. This is before final wetsanding and there are still small waves in the resin. -continued on next post

10-19-2005, 09:23 PM	#4 (permalink)
turboguy Resident Composites Guy Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Appleton, WI Posts: 948 Thanks: 1 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	After the piece is COMPLETELY cured, you can wetsand with 1500 grit, then 2000 grit until the surface is smooth. After that, 3M rubbing compound does a great job of taking off the haze that wetsanding leaves behind. You are now done!! This is the piece after final wetsanding. (note how much smoother the reflection is) Just to make sure that there are no problems with this weathering and turning yellow, it is a good idea to have a paint shop spray it with a U.V. inhibitive clearcoat. If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to help out. -Jason

10-19-2005, 11:43 PM	#5 (permalink)
MR2TRD1 pimpin' valet ;-) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 2,180 Thanks: 1 Thanked 37 Times in 34 Posts iTrader Rating: (19/100% )	dang...you're good...How much practice have you had?

10-20-2005, 04:54 PM	#6 (permalink)
turboguy Resident Composites Guy Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Appleton, WI Posts: 948 Thanks: 1 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Enough that it cost too much

10-26-2005, 04:53 PM	#7 (permalink)
Tyler Cage Fighter Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: saskatoon sask Posts: 978 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	can u do some stuff for people if they send u it

10-26-2005, 04:54 PM	#8 (permalink)
GF3 Cage Fighter Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Green Bay WI Posts: 230 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	kick ass man i am going to try this out on some things.... Is it really hard as you get to bigger objects

10-26-2005, 09:31 PM	#11 (permalink)
blazinmr2 Resident guitar shredder Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Pella, Ia Posts: 781 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	So what is the total cost of the supplies you need? Like the carbon fiber sheets, clearcoat, etc? I have been wanted to do something like this for awhile and your tutorial is very helpful and easy to understand.

10-27-2005, 05:29 PM	#12 (permalink)
turboguy Resident Composites Guy Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Appleton, WI Posts: 948 Thanks: 1 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	2 yards of cf by 50 inches is roughly $70 and the 2 quart kleercoat resin kit is $20. With shipping, around $100.

10-28-2005, 05:42 AM	#14 (permalink)
turboguy Resident Composites Guy Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Appleton, WI Posts: 948 Thanks: 1 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	www.uscomposites.com

10-28-2005, 03:43 PM	#15 (permalink)
blazinmr2 Resident guitar shredder Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Pella, Ia Posts: 781 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	cool, thanks

10-29-2005, 03:46 PM	#16 (permalink)
blazinmr2 Resident guitar shredder Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Pella, Ia Posts: 781 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	What weave do you generally use? I'm thinking something like the 2x2 twill or the 4 harness satin. Or just the plain, the website says that is what is used on the factory done pieces from audi and lexus. Basically I just want to know what design is most commonly used.

10-29-2005, 05:04 PM	#17 (permalink)
turboguy Resident Composites Guy Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Appleton, WI Posts: 948 Thanks: 1 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	the 2x2 2k tow twill is the most commonly used as aftermarket. The plain in just that. Plain.

10-29-2005, 06:44 PM	#18 (permalink)
blazinmr2 Resident guitar shredder Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Pella, Ia Posts: 781 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	alright another question, do you wear some sort of mask to protect you from the fumes of the resin, or is there no need to worry about that if you work in a well ventilated area? p.s. sorry for all the questions, but I'm a big noob when it comes to this stuff.

10-29-2005, 08:35 PM	#19 (permalink)
turboguy Resident Composites Guy Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Appleton, WI Posts: 948 Thanks: 1 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	The kleer kote is designed for table and bar top lamination. Its non-toxic, so there is nothing to worry about. Don't feel bad. You have to ask questions to learn.