DETAIL: Removed oxidation

[wagonis]

Okay, so I know there are about a billion posts about removing oxidation from your car, but I got such great results today that I had to post it up.

1. Rubbed Turtle Wax rubbing compound by hand using a terry cloth.
2. Used an osilating buffer to rub the compound in further after it dried a bit.
3. Hand buffed the s**t out of it and rubbed out all the compound.

Have a look at the results. Too bad I still have dents though.

[Mr. Baskerville]

very nice! i think i'm going to try and get a little work in on mine this weekend.

[wagonis]

Thanks man, took a lot of work, but was worth it. Gonna wash the car and get a fresh coat of wax on there, should make it shine even more.

[PHOENIX]

WOW!

That is night and day, great job.

Okay, so ive seen plenty wrecks and dents in my day, but how the hell did you get your bumper to fold in like that below your front turn signal?

[wagonis]

Thanks bro, appreciate the comp. As far ast he accident, I bought the car like that from a buddy of mine. His dad backed up his SUV out of the garage and could not see the MR2 as the tailgate was too high and...SMASH! Then he got rear ended, then someone backed up into the rear quarter...yeah, she needs some body work, but was always driveable reagrdless of the dents and smacks.

[KingCeaser]

why not just use a electric buffer. i paint for a living an i coulda knocked that out in no time. but looks a hell of a lot better than before. but a buffer woulda taken a quarter the time an been a deeper shine prob. an i have a bumper cover for your car with the 93+ lip in perfect un painted condition . directly from toyota

[Maruki-kun]

I used the same crap and it made a world of difference using a $14 electric orbital buffer from walmart.

[Mister2.2]

Good job, now get that front end repaired!

[wagonis]

Originally Posted by KingCeaser

why not just use a electric buffer. i paint for a living an i coulda knocked that out in no time. but looks a hell of a lot better than before. but a buffer woulda taken a quarter the time an been a deeper shine prob. an i have a bumper cover for your car with the 93+ lip in perfect un painted condition . directly from toyota

I actually used a $19 Kmart buffer. Keep in mind I never waxed the car yet, all I did was using rubbing compound. The wax is going on there tomorrow.

And how much for the bumper? Got pics too?

[Maruki-kun]

I bought a $100 buffing wheel, so I'm gonna have some awesome results here soon...

[wagonis]

Hell yeah you will, keep us posted.

[eckoman_pdx]

That looks nice, night and day different!!

If you know someone who knows how to use a rotary buffer and has a good one, have them go over it. It'll will REALLY bring out the shine. Nothing beats a rotary buffer. It's the only buffer capable of removing paint and defects. It will bring a car that bad back in no time at all...I used to detail, and when I got my car it was faded and looking bad. I took my makita rotary buffer to it with my choice of compound and now it looks great. Everyone compliments the paint, bright as the day it was new. I could never have achieved those results by hand. However, if you don't know how to use one...stay away, as you'll burn the paint up.

[Timon]

He isn't kidding when he says it will burn the paint up. Here is the aftermath of the previous owner attempting to buff my car.



If you look closely you can tell if actually did burn the paint a little bit. Not to mention after washing the car 3 times the paint still smeared a bit. Morale of the story... don't do it if you don't know how.



Also, very nice job on removing the oxidation from the car. It looks and shines great now. I like how you also buffed inside the folding of the bumper too.

[Maruki-kun]

I'm new to the buffing, but not new to power tools... I know not to just hit it hard and fast while pushing hard... I was told to jet the weight of the buffer handle it.

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by Ku-sama

I'm new to the buffing, but not new to power tools... I know not to just hit it hard and fast while pushing hard... I was told to jet the weight of the buffer handle it.

What kind of buffer are you using? If it's a rotary buffer, please practice on some POS fender or car to get the hang of it first...

[Maruki-kun]

lol, I guess I can practice on my brother's truck:

[KingCeaser]

ooooo. first time buffing. be careful. dont buff onto an edge. always buff off make sure the buffer is spinning away from the edge so that it doesnt catch an tear paint off. an never put the buffer on its side thats what happened in the pic above where he said someone burned through. its pretty hard to burn through that bad, but it does happen. an get a wool pad for that compound then use a foam pad with some swirrel mark remover. then wax it by hand. it should then look brand new. an i recommend you practice on that truck.

what kinda buffer is it? is it adjustable speed? the ones we use at work are dewalts an they are the shiot. they are like 300$ though

good luck an be careful around the edges. it doesnt hurt to tape stuff up either that way you wont mess it up with the buffer an get compound everywhere you dont want it to go.

[eckoman_pdx]

Taping off areas and covering the windshield are good ways to avoid compound splatter from buffing. Your brothers trunk looked like the ideal type to practice on. One you don't car if you screw it up (because you might).

As for brands, as was said, DeWalt is defiantly a good brand. I have a Mikita buffer (review on it in the toolbox section) myself, I've used it for years. DeWalt and Mikita buffers are built like a tank. I've used both DeWalt and Mikita. They are all I used when I used to do high end auto detailing on BMW's, Benz's, Corvettes, etc. You won't go wrong with one of them...but they are spendy.

[Maruki-kun]

Craftsman