DETAIL: Brand New Paint

[canadam]

What's the best measures one can take to keep a car fresh out of the paint booth looking great ?

[Mister2.2]

Dont drive it for awhile. Paint will be soft, don't tailgate or go fast on cruddy roads. Don't wax it for 6 weeks, keep it clean though. Do not buff or use cleaner wax or anything abrasive on it unless it is needed.

Claybar every 6 months, and keep it waxed and in the shade. That is probably about all you can do...

Oh, never ever use those brushes at the car wash, always use a soft sponge or cloth to wash it off, no pressure washers either.

[OCDetails.com]

Those brushes at a car wash are like hookers. Are you sure you want to be the next to use it? Avoid those at all cost.

Proper washing and drying techniques and tools will help you avoid most of the scratches and swirls that cars pick up. Use good quality wool wash mits and keep your wash water clean either by using a double bucket method (one bucket for your soap and another to rinse your mitt before going in for more) or by just rinsing the mitt with a hose frequently.

Never ever ever dry the car with a bath towel. Those fibers are way to coarse for car paint. It may be soft and fluffy on your skin, but it is the way those fibers are attached to the nylon backing that will scratch the crap out of your car. My suggestion is to get a waffle weave microfiber towel. I get my towels from www.premiumautocare.com. Those are the safest drying towels you can get. They also do an awesome job of absorbing the water.

[MR2TRD1]

I've noticed with my car....if its a daily driver.....it sucks. My car is a daily driver (black) and it chips like crazy!!! I wish I would have had stock paint in good condition. You can throw a book at my mom's acura and nothing happens...a rock off the highway will reak havoc on my paint.

[OCDetails.com]

Just be glad you don't have a new car. US VOC standards have forced auto manufactuers in the states to really cut corners in car paint. My 2005 was as chipped up as my 99 within 6 months of driving it. Cars painted in Japan or Europe are typically much better. That isn't to say that they don't cut corners too, but they at least aren't forced to by the government.

[Mister2.2]

Originally Posted by OCDetails.com

My suggestion is to get a waffle weave microfiber towel. I get my towels from www.premiumautocare.com. Those are the safest drying towels you can get. They also do an awesome job of absorbing the water.

Work great for washing the car with as well.

[mymr2turbo]

Originally Posted by Mister2.2

Oh, never ever use those brushes at the car wash, always use a soft sponge or cloth to wash it off, no pressure washers either.

Why not use a pressure washer? Although I use the "shower" on my nozzle I'm just curious as to why you said that. As for the brush, that's my nightmare since my car is black. I can only imagine what it'd look life after I used it.

I would also recommend not using the soap that is provided at a pressure wash place. I was reading someplace that their soap is almost like using dishwashing detergent......well it tends to remove wax easier. If I do go to one of those places I always just bring my own bucket(s) and shampoo made for your car (Meguirs, Griots, etc).

Another question is, what color is your car being painted? I've noticed that more and more I'm visiting www.autopia.org everyday. A great site with helpful tips. I usually get my products at www.autopia-carcare.com If you can invest in a PC.....what difference it will make once you've learn to use it correctly with the right products.

Steve

[Mister2.2]

Pressure washers are way too hard on your paint, your paint does not need 1700 PSI to clean it. It could lead to clear coat failure.

[smartash]

or a big ole patch of paint missing. I have had it happen to me at a detail shop. After that my cars get hand washed or stay dirty.

[OCDetails.com]

Originally Posted by Mister2.2

Pressure washers are way too hard on your paint, your paint does not need 1700 PSI to clean it. It could lead to clear coat failure.

It won't really cause clear coat failure. It will either strip the paint off or do nothing at all. High pressure washes aren't bad as long as you are careful around edges. If you have an aftermarket paint job then I would definitely be careful with them because you don't know how well it was prepped before they painted it. On a factory paint job there isn't much that a coin operated car wash sprayer is going to do to your paint other than not get it very clean. I try to do the hand wash or nothing at all approach too, but sometimes durring this time of the year when it is flat out too cold to do that, I break down and go to the coin op and spray it off. I'll never use one of those brushes, but the sprayer at least gets it a little cleaner.

[Cacaman]

Regarding the drying process and materials.

What are your thoughts on the Shammee (SP?) cloths or the absorber drying squeege?

Thanks,
Doug

[Mister2.2]

Originally Posted by OCDetails.com

It won't really cause clear coat failure. It will either strip the paint off or do nothing at all. High pressure washes aren't bad as long as you are careful around edges. If you have an aftermarket paint job then I would definitely be careful with them because you don't know how well it was prepped before they painted it. On a factory paint job there isn't much that a coin operated car wash sprayer is going to do to your paint other than not get it very clean. I try to do the hand wash or nothing at all approach too, but sometimes durring this time of the year when it is flat out too cold to do that, I break down and go to the coin op and spray it off. I'll never use one of those brushes, but the sprayer at least gets it a little cleaner.

Edges are the main concern but like I said, 1700PSI is overkill for washing your paint and I don't think it's needed at all. The washes at the car wash arent AS bad because the spray pattern is usually wider. I just try to avoid them all together.

[blurvision]

You could also invest in the 3M clear cover for the high impact areas
-Mark

[OCDetails.com]

Originally Posted by Cacaman

Regarding the drying process and materials.

What are your thoughts on the Shammee (SP?) cloths or the absorber drying squeege?

Thanks,
Doug

The only drying tool other than a waffle weave towel that I would use is the Absorber Drying Towel. I haven't seen the Absorber Squeege yet. I know there is the California Water Blade and I've used that before. It is actually really effective on glass. However, if you don't keep it clean or if there is even one piece of dirt on the car when you dry it then you will end up with lovely scratches. Any tool is only as safe as the person using it, so just be careful when drying.

[Mister2.2]

I like the cali water blade but it's hard to use on our cars with the curves on such, works much better on other cars.

[OCDetails.com]

Originally Posted by blurvision

You could also invest in the 3M clear cover for the high impact areas
-Mark

That's a good idea too, but just be aware that when they say 'invisible' or 'clear' that it is a fairly loose term. The texture of the film is different than the paint, so no matter how clear it is, you will always be able to see it in the sun. Not to mention that they don't always look the best. Case in point:



Now that is a fairly new car and I would bet that is fairly high quality material used on it. It is just evidence that no matter how nice your car is or the material used, if you don't take care of it then it is going to look nasty.

If I had it to do over again then I would probably look into getting something like this on my front bumper, but I'd never get it on the hood where there would be a visible line like that.

[Cacaman]

Originally Posted by OCDetails.com

The only drying tool other than a waffle weave towel that I would use is the Absorber Drying Towel. I haven't seen the Absorber Squeege yet. I know there is the California Water Blade and I've used that before. It is actually really effective on glass. However, if you don't keep it clean or if there is even one piece of dirt on the car when you dry it then you will end up with lovely scratches. Any tool is only as safe as the person using it, so just be careful when drying.

Sorry, I meant the towel. Thanks for the 2psi.

Doug

[5FistsoftheNorthStar]

Hasn't anyone ever heard of the Mr. Clean device?

This thing costs $20 and provides soft water jet, soap dispenser(always clean water), and a self-dry mist atomizer all in one. I use this all the time and happy with the results. Although I never let the car self dry. I give it a boost with a squeegee after the wash.

[Mister2.2]

I heard the Mr. Clean thing strips your wax off.

[MR2TRD1]

Originally Posted by OCDetails.com

That's a good idea too, but just be aware that when they say 'invisible' or 'clear' that it is a fairly loose term. The texture of the film is different than the paint, so no matter how clear it is, you will always be able to see it in the sun. Not to mention that they don't always look the best. Case in point:



Now that is a fairly new car and I would bet that is fairly high quality material used on it. It is just evidence that no matter how nice your car is or the material used, if you don't take care of it then it is going to look nasty.

If I had it to do over again then I would probably look into getting something like this on my front bumper, but I'd never get it on the hood where there would be a visible line like that.

Alot of the high end BMW's that I park have this option from the dealer. Most of the nice cars I park are just status symbols, the owners know nothing and could care less. 9 times out of 10 the 3m stuff looks ghetto in my opinion when applied on the hood.