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| General Technical Discussion Technical discussions regarding Aerodynamics, Composite Materials, Detailing, Tools and Machines, and Fabrication. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Kansas
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Quick question with clay bar
I have a rough kind of overspray on my car and was wondering if using a clay bar would get rid of that so it would be all shiny and smooth again. Also what brand of clay bar do you guys recommend?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Kansas
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anybody?
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#4 (permalink) |
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Lovin' the curves!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Decatur,IL/Solomons,MD
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Over-spray may take a bit more than just a clay bar to remove. And if you get one, get the roughest you can. Use the clay with plenty of body shine then try buffing it, that should work. It looks like you have a black car, buffing it will make it shine like no other!
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#5 (permalink) |
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Some Skills
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Socialist Republic of Chicagoland
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I've had good luck with clay bars. Mothers makes a great one. My neighbor decided to spray paint her mailbox in her garage next to her SC430 and was curious as to why her car didn't look very good afterwords... I detailed it for her, took about an hour ~ hour and a half with a clay bar, then buffed it and polished it but it looked like brand new when I was done. Time and patience but a clay bar will work.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 105
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Ok thanks for the tips. And ya i have a black car and it looks like the previous owner painted somthing and the spray settled on top of my car because it is only rough on the hood, top, and trunk. Not the sides.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Feb 2006
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If the claybar doesn't work, usually a good polish will.
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#8 (permalink) |
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MR2 owner since 1990
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: USA
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Clay bars were invented to remove overspray in body shops. Clay comes in various aggressiveness levels but I'd start with one of the major OTC brands.
If you have not used clay before I'd suggest cutting the bar in half or in thirds and put the unused pieces in a baggie. If you drop a piece toss it and fetch one of the unused pieces. The horizontal surfaces always are the most contaminated. Work on a 2' x 2' section at a time. Be sure to work in the shade on cool paint. Use lots of the supplied QD as a lubricant and feel the surface with your fingertips as you clay to see that you have made it smooth as glass. Wipe up residue with microfiber towels. Turn and re-kneed the clay piece often as it gets discolored. After claying the paint, clay your glass and then finally your wheels. Discard that piece of clay after you finish your wheels as it will contain brake dust and is now too contaminated to try to reuse. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 105
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thanks for your guys help ill have to pick one up this weekend and try it
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#10 (permalink) |
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Shut up&enjoy the ride
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Northern Cali.
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I used the bug and tar spray, and it worked very good for overspray and even adhesives. Fine steel wool on glass only, not side mirrors unless you know they are glass, i bet not. Wash then use rubbing compound if the paint is dull like that kind of powdery oil glaze look, it also works for minor scratches and swirls, Wash again then clay bar, then NXT. Never park under trees and use a car cover. Its kind of embarassing at school though.
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