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#1 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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ATL service guy?
Back in October I found a place to service my MKI mr2 in Marietta. However I drove back over there about a month ago and now it is a RV storage place (and body shop). I believe the guys there were called Tora Motorsports --- does anyone know where the guys who worked there went?
Does anyone have suggestions of a good MK1 guy in the greater atlanta area? I think I need a new fuel pump and got a quote from Sandy Springs garage of like $1200 (insurance doesn't believe my car is worth that) & I don't have a garage to do this myself (aarrgh, I live in a condo). THX. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D
Join Date: Jan 2008
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you don't need a garage , all you need is a jack some jackstands and a full day but condos don't like that kind of stuff. 1200 seems ridiculous it's a PITA but not that hard to do especially at a shop with a lift.
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#3 (permalink) |
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pimpin' valet ;-)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Atlanta
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Tora closed back it the summer. I used to work there. There are plenty of ATL MR2 guys who would probably help you out. I finish finals this week and I have a garage. I'm reluctant to offer my help because it seems every time I work on someone else's car....10 more things are broke that they aren't aware of. With you understanding that...I might be of some help.
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#4 (permalink) |
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U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D
Join Date: Jan 2008
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out of curiosity you said you think you might need a fuel pump. what exactly is the problem?
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#5 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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I've been having a couple symptoms:
None of these are consistently reproducable. While driving - the check engine light comes on at highway speed - and I press on the gas - it boggs down...after a couple of seconds it will pick back up and stay going. The other day - was stopped at a red light (car had been driven for like 20 minutes) and check engine light came on -- pressed on gas - bogged down (rpms went low) and black smoke from tailpipe. Soon after that I was parked at the mall - came out - and turned the key --- the car wouldn't start --- was getting the sound that it wanted to turn over -- but seemed to not getting gas. After the 4th attempt it cranked right up. Items already changed/done in the last 5K miles: new plugs (iridium) new wires new rotor new distro cap new O2 sensor new Fuel Filter running Premium gas for last 3 tanks. Was thinking that maybe a vaccume issue - but not sure how to test. Shorted out the check engine diagnostic to get the code and got 4 flashes. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Mar 2006
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I would pull the codes and see what the CEL is about. Bridge T and E1 on the diagnostic connector, and count the blinks of the CEL.
Figure out what the codes are and go from there. It does sound like a sensor problem. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D
Join Date: Jan 2008
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CEL 4 is "water temp sensor" which says -open or short circuit in coolant temperature sensor signal- not sure how that would play in to your situation. you said after it bogged on you it let out black smoke , that means it was running rich so fuel wasn't the problem. if you can try checking the codes again to see if there might be another one
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#8 (permalink) |
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yes, I miss it!
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: atl,ga
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Coil/igniter maybe? My fuel pump went out around the 215-225k mile marker. Although i was making about 300 whp or so for about a year.
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#9 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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Ok -- so I swapped out the water temperature sensor and the opposite side switch
part numbers 89422-12010 & 89428-28030 . This has taken care of the problem. Overall - had to buy/use a deep socket 19mm & 17mm to take them off (darn 3 trips to Ace hardware to get the right ones). I removed the battery & air pipe, socketed the part off - unscrewed by hand and reclaimed the washer - put liquid gasket on the new piece - screwed it back in. I was surprised to only lose like 6 tbsp of coolant as well as maybe 2 tbsp from the other side. Hooked it all back up, turned it over and all good. Did the check engine code with a paper clip and it's flashing once now (ALL GOOD). ![]() I've attached a picture of the parts that were removed. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D
Join Date: Jan 2008
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congrats on the fix and now you have those sockets for future fixes.
oh yeah and you saved about 1K |
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#11 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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coolant temp sensor
first glad u change it,background the coolant temp sensor tells the car when you go from cold start>to warm>to normal temp for the engine. each 1 has it own engine program. if that sensor runs out of spec, the car dont know the status of the motor and will go in a close loop meaning it will run of a emergency loop program. Bad coolant temps sensor may act like a bad mass air meter or o2sensor,or bad catalatic convertor.
had a s4 twin turbo and the coolant temp sensor was reading off the chart and the diagnotic machine said it was the o2 sensors and the convertor change the temp sensor the whole thing went away did so much research on the car found out what stated above it also has a direct connection on the fuel management system. cold start>more fuel Hot start >less fuel hopesthat helps someone |
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