ONCE IN A LIFETIME OPPROTUNITY!!!!!

[rousegk7]

Hey Stephen, those DHL tracking numbers are showing invalid if I try to track it through DHL.com. My bud who owns the place you shipped it too says DHL only delivered 2 of 3 boxes and the deliverer said he couldn't find the 3rd box. So I am just trying to see what happened to it. Thanks.

[TRD_MR2_DRGN]

Hope they didn't loose or damage the third body. Friend of mines recently got some rims and only got 3 of 4. Thought they either lost or damaged it which would suck, wtf are you suppose to do with 3 rims. Turns out they had it in the lost and found/unknown items warehouse and took forever for them to find it. Wtf, all 4 rims were sent together but they managed to loose only one. Very odd.

[rousegk7]

4th Rim found, and dealt with. Excellent support Stephen.

[jazzcornet]

thanks for that post josh. our customer service is second to none!!!

[jazzcornet]

some teaser pics





and just for affect

[jazzcornet]

figured i would post these for josh (rousegk7). very nice car josh!!

[TRD_MR2_DRGN]

Looks good. Anybody have pics of a white 2 with bronze rims with a polished lip?

[jazzcornet]

here are some teaser shots for ya. as promised, they will be shipped out before the 72 hour deadline at 5pm eastern time tomorrow night.

copious amounts of work went into these rims and i'd like to break down exactly what was involved for future reference to new customers.

firstly, the rim was soaked in a heated industrial strength degreasing solution for nearly an hour. after the initial soak, they were rinsed off with a 3400psi heated pressure washer to get any left over residue and junk off the rims. then they were disassembled and thrown into the media blasting box. the initial blast was using 15/30grit silica carbide followed with a 130 grit glass bead. after the blasting process, the part was rinced with clean water and set to air dry. after the individual parts were air dried, they were again blown off with compressed air to get the excess dust and debris off. each part was then preheated to 435 degrees for 60 minutes to outgas. after it cooled, they were sprayed down with denatured alchohol and air dried to remove any remaining oils or greases that may have come out of the substrate during the outgassing process. the parts were then coated in their corresponding color and placed in an environmentally controlled room to cool down and fully cure. after each part was coated and cooled, the reassembly was done. only the finest toyota FIPG was used between the mating surfaces and to seal over the breaks in the metal to ensure no leakage of air after the tire is installed. each bolt was cross-torqued according to manufacturer's specs at 28in-lbs. and voila!! we have a freshly coated set of wheels!

to reitterate the immense discount you received, i will break down the cost:

1. 15/30grit media, 75lbs @ $18/40lbs - $33.75
2. 130 grit media, 50lbs @ $20/20lbs - $50.00
3. 1 lb pastel dark brass powder @ $24.99/lb - $24.99
4. 1 lb extreme chrome powder @ $24.99/lb - $24.99
5. 13oz Toyota FIPG @ $7.84/3oz - $33.98
6. 16hrs labor @ $58/hr - $928
7. shop equipment and tool fee (flat rate) - $10.00
8. return shipping to 32506 - $68.14

for a grand total of $1173.85

so, this group buy was over a 50% savings for this guy!!

Our prices do vary from time to time, especially for board members ( i tend to hook people up), but if you were a simple customer off the streets, that's what you would expect to pay.

[lsgheero]

WOW nice rims altho I would have asked for the center peice to be chromed with black lettering that would be sick!

Still kickass work!! and WOWOOWOWOWOWOWOWOW @ the savings!

[jazzcornet]

he actually asked for the letters to be black but to leave the rest of it in the pastel dark brass. i couldn't do it because three layers of powdercoat just wouldnt be pretty. its a good recipe for bad joo-joo

[lsgheero]

ah still would have been nice tho :P

[jazzcornet]

agreed, but not only would that be excruciatingly hard, but i would also be out even more than i already am!

[TRD_MR2_DRGN]

WOW, looks awesome! Yeah, I agree with having the words in black and that's what I wanted, but too many layers. Is there any way to get the words in black without messing up the powder coat? Paint maybe, but would that stick and actually last without peeling/flaking?

I also wanted to get a really thick clear coat on the face also, kinda like the clear layer thats on the Racing Hart Type C's I have, but that would have made the chrome dull/less shiny. Anybody have any ideas on putting some type of thick clear layer on the face? I like how the surface of the Type C's look with that clear layer.

Did the back piece of the rim get coated too? If not, how much more would it cost to get it coated too?

Local Powdercoating wanted 100+ just for some pipes, so I had to jump in on this at such a good deal. Had to dig up some money for this even though I don't have my 2 running. More people should of gotten into this, sell some stuff, borrow some, or rob somebody, haha, J/K.

I know I probably asked for a lot on the colors and coats. for all the different request. And all those bolts must of been a PITA to put back on. I'm actually not worried about the 72 hr return time. This guys helped me out a lot. Bump for a good vendor. I know I'll be getting more stuff coated in the future.

[lsgheero]

sharpie marker FTW!!!!!! :P jk dont do it unless it would work........

oh and not sure why you want the clear coat, Powercoating doesnt fade like normal paint does I dont think....

[jazzcornet]

actually........

extreme chrome powdercoat will fade/oxidize over time. the powder contains vevry fine pigments of aluminum in them (it's what gives it the reflectiveness) and as such, will dull if not properly maintained. many professional powdercoaters will tell you that you NEED a clear coat over chrome powder but i find that waxing it will suffice just fine. i personally use zymol and have not had one gripe whatsoever.

as for the black, any black touchup paint would work just fine. i actually tried to make the letters black, but i just couldn't get the powder to adhere with my 50kV gun. there were quite a few dings and knicks in the metal when i got it and even after sanding it down, there were still plenty of impurities. i cleaned up all the curb rash and scratches the best i could and filled the rest in with plenty of powder, so now they look almost new.

the inside of the wheel was not coated. usually i coat the inside the same color as the face but i didnt see it neccessary in this case since you really dont see anything on the inside anway. if i were to coat the insides for you now, it would be much more expensive since i have already reassembled the wheels and put locktite on each of the 44 bolts/wheel. taking that off and redoing it is not something i really want to do.

thanks for the thumbs up btw, i'm glad you like our service. we strive to be the best we can for our customers.

[jazzcornet]

Originally Posted by lsgheero

sharpie marker FTW!!!!!!

i actually thought about doing that, but shhh, dont tell anyone

[lsgheero]

Originally Posted by jazzcornet

actually........

extreme chrome powdercoat will fade/oxidize over time. the powder contains vevry fine pigments of aluminum in them (it's what gives it the reflectiveness) and as such, will dull if not properly maintained. many professional powdercoaters will tell you that you NEED a clear coat over chrome powder but i find that waxing it will suffice just fine. i personally use zymol and have not had one gripe whatsoever.

as for the black, any black touchup paint would work just fine. i actually tried to make the letters black, but i just couldn't get the powder to adhere with my 50kV gun. there were quite a few dings and knicks in the metal when i got it and even after sanding it down, there were still plenty of impurities. i cleaned up all the curb rash and scratches the best i could and filled the rest in with plenty of powder, so now they look almost new.

the inside of the wheel was not coated. usually i coat the inside the same color as the face but i didnt see it neccessary in this case since you really dont see anything on the inside anway. if i were to coat the insides for you now, it would be much more expensive since i have already reassembled the wheels and put locktite on each of the 44 bolts/wheel. taking that off and redoing it is not something i really want to do.

thanks for the thumbs up btw, i'm glad you like our service. we strive to be the best we can for our customers.

I got POWNED But I guess thats why you do the powdercoating and I don't

[TRD_MR2_DRGN]

Originally Posted by lsgheero

sharpie marker FTW!!!!!! :P jk dont do it unless it would work........

oh and not sure why you want the clear coat, Powercoating doesnt fade like normal paint does I dont think....

I'm not sure what kinda of clear layer is on the Racing Harts, but it looks pretty thick. If you've actually seen them, you'll know what I mean. It's not like a paint or powdercoat clear, like some kind of hard enamel or something. I think it looks pretty cool and gives it a unique look.

Yeah, it would be a PITA to take apart again. I forgot to ask before hand. It's just for the Show/WOW factor, I'm not planning to run these daily.

[jazzcornet]

i have two types of clear in stock. HFSD clear and super high gloss clear. both will dull the shine ever so slightly (more so the HFSD than the SHG) but the HFSD clear contains that retarded thick chemical resistant coating you are reffering to. the instructions say to apply 2-3mm of thickness when you use it and it melts and expands to nearly 5mm whereas all other powders tend to barely have 1mm thickness after yo ucure it

[jazzcornet]

also kwok,

the guys i work with thought it would be a pretty funny prank to send you my old WDR rims. they look just like the equips. check it out in the backround of this picture. and ironically enough, they are going to be the same color scheme as your wheels except the bolts will have gold heads as well