MkII big brake conversion parts

[te51levin]

People have been asking about what it takes to convert an NA or a '91-'92 turbo the larger '93-'95 brakes. I have not performed this conversion myself so I'm not certain this is all you need, but according to what I've heard, these should get the job done. Also, please understand that these are all very heavy parts, and shipping will not be cheap; if you have no intention of spending this much money on the parts, it doesn't matter what the shipping would cost

I can only refund core charges if you have the exact same style calipers to turn in. In other words, they must be '93+ turbo calipers to get the credit back from Toyota.

43512-17080 - Rotor, front (ea)
47730-17140-84 - Caliper (reman), RF
47750-17140-84 - Caliper (reman), LF
47721-17050 - Bracket, RF caliper
47722-17020 - Bracket, LF caliper
04947-33010 - Fitting kit, front pads (spring clips)
04945-12010 - Shim kit, anti-squeal, for front pads
04465-12160 - Brake pads, front

43512-17080 - Rotor, rear (ea)
47730-17130-84 - Caliper (reman), RR
47750-17130-84 - Caliper (reman), LR
47707-17040 - Bracket, RR caliper
47708-17040 - Bracket, LR caliper
04948-17020 - Fitting kit, rear pads (spring clips)
04946-17010 - Shim kit, anti-squeal, for rear pads
04466-17090 - Brake pads, rear

Some people have asked about slotted rotors, aftermarket pads, etc. They're available from a few different places, but all I really deal in is OEM Toyota parts, so unfortunately I can't offer you the trick aftermarket stuff.

Here are the extra parts Gairloch mentions below:
47703-17020 - Dust shield, RF
47704-17020 - Dust shield, LF
47881-17050 - Dust shield, RR
47882-17050 - Dust shield, LR
47201-17140 - Master cylinder, no ABS
47201-17160 - Master cylinder, with ABS
44610-17290 - Brake booster, no ABS
44610-17250 - Brake booster, with ABS
47190-17070 - NLA - Proportioning valve, no ABS
47190-14080 - Proportioning valve, with ABS
47190-17090 - '94-'95 proportioning valve, no ABS

[Gairloch]

Aaron, I've done this conversion. Here are a few more parts you can tack onto that list if you want.

Dust shields on all 4 corners.(not a big deal, can bend the old ones)
'93+ turbo brake master cylinder (highly recommended)
'93+ turbo vacuum booster (not really important)
'93+ turbo brake proportioning valve (highly recommended, strong rear brake bias without)


If you convert from '91 brakes to '93 turbo brakes the 14" stock wheels will NOT fit anymore.

[o6spdracer]

Thanks for the prices Aaron. What would be the total price for all above including gairloch's 4 additional parts for a complete swap. I'm looking to do this soon; the new rims makes the brakes look puny. Maybe get slotted rotors and ss brake lines instead. But I would still have to get the brackets, calipers, fitting kit, etc. to get it to fit.

Would it be 'better' to do the rear conversion with OEM parts (minus power slotted rotors) and get a big brake set up like greddy or precision for the front?

For those who have completed this, what route did you take? Just curious to see what options I have. Thanks in advance for your input.

Maybe another vendor can do a collaboration to make an brake conversion kit, with upgraded rotors, brake lines, and pads???

[te51levin]

Oh hell, uhh...well...I dunno what *your* total would be! Like most things, it depends on how much you want to do and what you want to skip. Plus some of the parts prices also vary depending on whether you have ABS or not. It's usually easiest to just ask the customer to pick the parts they need and add the numbers up themselves. Dig out that old calculator watch you wore in second grade and start adding things up

Since I'm a MkI owner with little MkII experience, I can't comment on what the best approach would be.

[Gairloch]

Originally Posted by o6spdracer

Thanks for the prices Aaron. What would be the total price for all above including gairloch's 4 additional parts for a complete swap. I'm looking to do this soon; the new rims makes the brakes look puny. Maybe get slotted rotors and ss brake lines instead. But I would still have to get the brackets, calipers, fitting kit, etc. to get it to fit.

Would it be 'better' to do the rear conversion with OEM parts (minus power slotted rotors) and get a big brake set up like greddy or precision for the front?

For those who have completed this, what route did you take? Just curious to see what options I have. Thanks in advance for your input.

Maybe another vendor can do a collaboration to make an brake conversion kit, with upgraded rotors, brake lines, and pads???

Aaron, I hope you don't mind if I try to help.

o6spd, unless you're going to be running enduros with your car I would not bother any anything bigger than the '93 turbo calipers. If you put a good set of brake pads in there you will have more stopping than you know what to do with, depending on your tires of course.

You're not going to get any more friction with a bigger brake kit. The '93 turbo brakes with good pads on are already able to easily overpower even very sticky street tires and probably even r-compound tires. A big brake kit only really does one thing for you and that is add mass to the system which does two things. First, it increases the amount of heat the system can tolerate and secondly it adds a whole bunch of unsprung weight (which is bad).

For street usage you should never ever be overheating your brakes even with crap pads as long as the system is in good repair. For track use I can tell you from experience that you will get all the braking you need and more with turbo brake calipers and good brake pads. Since I upgraded to turbo calipers and high performance brake pads I have had zero issues with overheating and have had my braking described as "neck cracking good".

Unless the bling is what you're after I suggest you stick with blank OE replacement rotors. Slotting and cross drilling does absolutely squat for a street car and precious little for a track car.

[te51levin]

Originally Posted by Gairloch

Aaron, I hope you don't mind if I try to help.

You are more than welcome to, and I thank you for your input. You have the experience and the knowledge. I just have the EPC and access to the Toyota warehouse

[kawasakizx636]

47730-17140-84 - 62.43 - Caliper (reman), RF
47750-17140-84 - 62.43 - Caliper (reman), LF
47721-17050 - 58.65 - Bracket, RF caliper
47722-17020 - 58.65 - Bracket, LF caliper
04947-33010 - 16.09 - Fitting kit, front pads (spring clips)
04945-12010 - 18.03 - Shim kit, anti-squeal, for front pads
04465-12160 - 39.81 - Brake pads, front

47730-17130-84 - 69.81 - Caliper (reman), RR
47750-17130-84 - 69.81 - Caliper (reman), LR
47707-17040 - 57.10 - Bracket, RR caliper
47708-17040 - 57.10 - Bracket, LR caliper
04948-17020 - 19.84 - Fitting kit, rear pads (spring clips)
04946-17010 - 14.96 - Shim kit, anti-squeal, for rear pads
04466-17090 - 39.81 - Brake pads, rear

47703-17020 - 18.67 - Dust shield, RF
47704-17020 - 18.67 - Dust shield, LF
47881-17050 - 24.35 - Dust shield, RR
47882-17050 - 24.35 - Dust shield, LR
47201-17140 - 187.37 - Master cylinder, no ABS
47190-17090 - 116.56 - '94-'95 proportioning valve, no ABS

total: 1034.49

so this is all i need?
not shur what the brake booster is, do i need that too?
and i also didn't put down rotors, cause i'm gonna get some aftermarket ones.

let me know if this is correct for the complete 93+ upgrade
thanks

[te51levin]

Originally Posted by kawasakizx636

so this is all i need?

There's no Big Brake Conversion listed in the Toyota EPC, so I'm going off what I've heard. Toyota does not tell us parts guys how to modify their cars...

[kawasakizx636]

i understand what you mean, i just wanted to know if that all the stuff that i needed so that i don't have to place another order and pay again for shipping.
i wan't asking for a response from you as i remember u saying that your an mk1 guy so you wouldn't know much, but i was kind of asking someone that already did this upgrade.

[te51levin]

Ah, gotcha.

[Gairloch]

Aside from the rotors it looks like you've got everything covered there. You might want to consider either some new OE brake lines or some stainless steel brake lines while you're at it too. No sense having to drain the entire system more than once Getting all those bubbles out can be a PITA.

The brake booster provides vacuum assist for the brake hydraulic system. The turbo brake booster is a bit larger but I can tell you from experience that the NA booster is fine.

Are you planning on doing some performance driving? If you are then you might want to consider refilling the system with a DOT 4 brake fluid like ATE Blue or Motul 600 rather than the regular DOT 3 stuff. DOT 4 is much much more tolerant of high temperatures than DOT 3 is. I favor ATE Blue pretty strongly myself.

Now Aaron .. about my commission ....

[kawasakizx636]

sorry for this question and i'm pretty shur this is everything, but is absolutly everything that i need. i'm gonna be ordering this from out of town most likely from aaron, so i'll be paying alot for shipping and customs so i don't wanna have to do it twice if i forget anything. and i changed the list with the abs cause i'm pretty shur this mr2 does have abs "says in the fuse panel". ive read somewhere that it said that i have to stick with abs if the car has abs so...Thanks

47730-17140-84 - 62.43 - Caliper (reman), RF
47750-17140-84 - 62.43 - Caliper (reman), LF
47721-17050 - 58.65 - Bracket, RF caliper
47722-17020 - 58.65 - Bracket, LF caliper
04947-33010 - 16.09 - Fitting kit, front pads (spring clips)
04945-12010 - 18.03 - Shim kit, anti-squeal, for front pads
04465-12160 - 39.81 - Brake pads, front

47730-17130-84 - 69.81 - Caliper (reman), RR
47750-17130-84 - 69.81 - Caliper (reman), LR
47707-17040 - 57.10 - Bracket, RR caliper
47708-17040 - 57.10 - Bracket, LR caliper
04948-17020 - 19.84 - Fitting kit, rear pads (spring clips)
04946-17010 - 14.96 - Shim kit, anti-squeal, for rear pads
04466-17090 - 39.81 - Brake pads, rear

47703-17020 - 18.67 - Dust shield, RF
47704-17020 - 18.67 - Dust shield, LF
47881-17050 - 24.35 - Dust shield, RR
47882-17050 - 24.35 - Dust shield, LR
47201-17160 - 187.37 - Master cylinder, with ABS
47190-17080 - 253.03 - Proportioning valve, with ABS..i don't see a 94-95 proportioning valve. is there one?

[Gairloch]

Looks like you've got the whole kit and kaboodle to me.

[kawasakizx636]

what about the proportioning valve??? i see that there isn't a 94 with abs...or is there?

[fosley]

According to carfiche, there are a few part numbers for the proportioning valve:

Non-Turbo:
Jan '90 - Present, w/ abs: 47190-14060
Jan '90 - Present, no abs: 47190-14020

Turbo:
Jan '90 - Jan '92, w/ abs: 47190-17060
Jan '92 - Mar '93, w/ abs: 47190-17080
Mar '93 - Nov '93, w/ abs: 47190-14080
Nov '93 - Present, w/ abs: 47190-17080

Jan '90 - Jan '92, no abs: 47190-17040
Jan '92 - Mar '93, no abs: 47190-17090
Mar '93 - Nov '93, no abs: 47190-17070
Nov '93 - Present, no abs: 47190-17090

Looks like they tried something different in '93 then went back to what they had before, so I would think the 17080/17090 valve is probably your best choice for any '93+ upgrade (note that he has both of those listed in the first post as of this writing). However, it's possible that the 14080/17070 valves were more aggressive for race driving and they just decided it was too dangerous for average drivers and pulled it; if that's the case, those valves might be better if you're tracking it, but that's just speculation on my part.

[kawasakizx636]

i won't be tracking it. not yet anyways lol

[te51levin]

Originally Posted by kawasakizx636

...and i changed the list with the abs cause i'm pretty shur this mr2 does have abs "says in the fuse panel". ive read somewhere that it said that i have to stick with abs if the car has abs so...Thanks

If you're not sure whether your car has ABS or not, I'd advise you to be very careful attempting a conversion like this. It's not for beginners. You can email me the VIN and I may be able to tell you whether the car has ABS or not, but really, you should be able to tell yourself. Look for an ABS actuator. I wouldn't trust the label on the fusebox...labels can be used on many different cars.

[fosley]

You could always convert to no ABS. The ABS setup also has a sensor on each wheel that doesn't exist on non-ABS. On the rear wheel, right in front of where the swaybar pivots in the crossmember, you should see a wire running to the knuckle if it has ABS.

Or you could get going fast and stomp on the brakes and see the pedal starts pulsing (although complete lockup doesn't always mean it's non-ABS).

[eckoman_pdx]

what the difference in size between the 91 turbo brakes and 93 turbo brakes, both front and rear? Does the 93 turbo brakes have more pistons or bigger pistons? What is the about the master cylinder size diff? Are the brake boosters the same? What's the minimum wheel needed for this conversion?

I've done brake conversions to bigger rotors and drun to disc swaps on honda/acura's (sorry to bring up other manufacturers) before, and one thing I never do is get knee deep into one without knowing ALL the parts, the differences, etc. Also, at $1000 it's kinda high, has anyone ever sourced parts from a junkyard or a place like summit racing/baxters/napa for some of the stuff like calipers, dust shields, lines etc? I know with the honda/acura's, after a lot of research the least expensive route was a junkyard/oem mix, and as long as you know what you're buying and what parts to never buy from a wrecking yard (i.e. master cylinder, etc).

[Gairloch]

The '93 turbo brake rotors and pistons aren't necessarily all that much larger. They are a bit but it doesn't amount to much. The real difference is the size of the caliper. The '93 turbo brake calipers are significantly more bulky which makes them a lot more heat tolerant. Personally I wouldn't ever recommend that someone upgrade from '91 turbo brakes to '93 turbo brakes unless this tolerance to heat is what they needed.

Where an upgrade does start making a bigger difference is when you're going from NA brakes to '93 turbo brakes. That is a significant jump in size and performance. NA brakes are small with a single pot. The '93 turbo calipers are significantly larger and double pot.

I am afraid I don' know off the top of my head the master cylinder size differences but the information is out there. They do get progressively larger, I can tell you that much.

As to other sources, well this is a vendor forum so we won't go into that here.